Stumbled upon this stuff while researching DIY brake job, "silicone paste". Sounds like the stuff would work great for gears, and perhaps drags?
It's pretty pricey so I won't be buying it unless I can find uses for it beyond the brake job...
I use a product called Sil-Glyde .
It can be purchased for @5 bucks for a 4 oz tube in bulk and or up to 18 bux at different suppliers. It will stay put in uses like Drive Shaft splines (keeps that Clunking Noise out ) , Steering Couplers, Brake Actuators, Sun Roof Guides and more . It is a Good Water Barrier.
It works Great for the Rubber Water Pump Impellers too...
The Viscosity remains pretty much like sludge throughout the Heat ranges. Never tried it on anything like Gears.
I imagine your sil gel is most likely used the same way .Post a Name Brand or part number if you can .
Quote from: Wompus Cat on August 15, 2022, 03:51:35 PMI use a product called Sil-Glyde
Yeah, that's what I ended up buying too. No way I'm paying $30 for a tub of silicone paste that'll only get used once or twice. But now that you mention it, you ever use Sil-Glyde on reels?
I was wondering about the silicone paste for reels though because it exhibits many of the qualities we look for in reel greases, like water repelling.
Quote from: nelz on August 15, 2022, 04:34:04 PMQuote from: Wompus Cat on August 15, 2022, 03:51:35 PMI use a product called Sil-Glyde
Yeah, that's what I ended up buying too. No way I'm paying $30 for a tub of silicone paste that'll only get used once or twice. But now that you mention it, you ever use Sil-Glyde on reels?
I was wondering about the silicone paste for reels though because it exhibits many of the qualities we look for in reel greases, like water repelling.
Well like I mentioned .The Viscosity is reely thick and stays that way . It is like Peanut Butter . I have NOT used it on Reels . Not opposed to it just ain't done it . Got too many other oils and greases been working forever .
Interesting question!
Here is the SDS on Sil-Glyde. Looks like it is about half castor oil, so it is not a pure silicone oil based product. Castor oil might be used to make the product less expensive, and it plays well with most elastomers.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0630/9724/1813/files/Sil-Glyde-Grease_US-GHS-SDS-FINAL_09_07_2018.pdf?v=1652967544
I could be confused here, but the stuff that I am used to seeing described as silicone paste is a dialectic grease made from just silicone oil and some kind of fancy processed silica as a filler. Expensive stuff. Here is the 3M product:
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40070802/
These silicone pastes are very thick, like NLGI 3. Designed to stay put to provide a protective seal first, and a sliding lubricant second. Probably too thick for reel use.
I am also curious if there is a silicone based product out there that has a formulation that would match reel use. Silicone oils might not do a good enough job of staying put on metal. They use it mostly for plastics and as a inert/clear hydraulic fluid for sciency stuff. I was looking into getting some for refilling a a vacuum gauge dial. About USD $300 per gallon. Or about the same price as 10 new gauges.
But right now for greases, It would be hard to get me off of my Super Lube (presumably non silicone) grease. I lurve the stuff.
-J
I thought superlube was silicone based? Or do they just also make silicone based grease?
You are absolutely right, Dave —-
SuperLube is excellent, and a good value economically.
Stays in place, washes out easily with cleaners when servicing, and is readily available.
20 or 25 years ago, I would buy 1 pound tubs of a clear reel grease from Southwestern Reel Service & Parts in Dallas, Texas.
It had no list of ingredients or claimed results. But it worked, felt, looked, and was just as effective as the clear SuperLube. Might have been the same stuff.
A lot of reel shops re-package their preferred greases and oils that they buy in large drums from other manufacturers.
Here is a bottle from Wild River —- it is just called "Reel Oil".
It was good, but after I switched to WRL191S about 20 years ago —- I have never found anything better. It adheres to metals very well, even in Salt Water conditions, stays in place, is synthetic, and just keeps working.
The WRL191S stands for "Wire Rope Lubricant", and the "S" is Salt Water.
It is used for heavy industrial applications where water, salt water, freezing temperatures, and constant use are encountered. Offshore dredging, railroads, construction companies, heavy equipment crane operators, NASA, the Military, and many other large operations buy it in 55 gallon drums. It stays in place and just washes out when serviced.
I buy it by the gallon once or twice a year.
Best, Fred
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on August 15, 2022, 06:35:11 PMI thought superlube was silicone based? Or do they just also make silicone based grease?
They make silicone oil and grease, and the regular stuff (NSF safe but no ingredients listed on the SDS). I don't think that their regular grease is is silicone based, as it is listed as compatible with silicone. Anything with silicone oil in it will degrade silicone. Sort of a rule of thumb for plastics/elastomers and lubricants- likes attract. If your part is made from the same oil as is used in the lubricant, it is more likely to get absorbed. That is one reason why they use silicone grease for sealing and protecting rubber parts, as the rubber seals on non-food/science machinery are usually not silicone.
Anyways - getting back to what Fred said, once I found Super Lube, my tub of Cal's is just sitting there getting older and more separated. Only have a weeks worth of fishing it on cork drags, but so far Super Lube is the best drag lube for cork that I have found.
Assume that the WRL191s is Jaymors 191s (from Fresno!): Their web site irked me. No details on anything. No viscosity, no compatibility charts, no information on marine use, no SDS. According to Jaymor, it is the perfect lubricant and penetrating oil for absolutely every situation and is compatible with everything, so we just shouldn't worry our pretty little heads about technical stuff, and just buy it.
And the product choices are not very friendly: a 12 oz spray can, a tiny oiler pen, or by the gallon or more.
Fred's recommendation carries a lot of weight with me. Otherwise I would ignore these guys. If I run into the oiler pen in a store, and feel like lightening my wallet by 7 bux, I will give it a try.
-J
Dave, I have used it on thousands of reels over the last 20 years.
And would not use it if it didn't work extremely well.
As for specs —- I guess that is important —- but at the end of the day —- it is just fishing reels —- and it works with no side effects, damage, and really stays in place until the next service.
It may be good to know every detail about how something works, and the theory behind it —- but for me, it isn't necessary to understand all of the principles behind electricity —- I just want to know how to turn on the light switch. 😄😄😄
Shoot me your mailing address and I will send you 5 ounces in a Heinz 57 bottle at N/C.
Best, Fred
I need to find some of that here in Canada.
Cheers:
Todd
Well then. I've been using the silicone based one on my reels, not realizing there was a difference. In fact I've almost gone thru a tube. Seems to be working just fine though.
I
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on August 16, 2022, 01:21:37 AMWell then. I've been using the silicone based one on my reels, not realizing there was a difference. In fact I've almost gone thru a tube. Seems to be working just fine though.
Interesting...
Yup, unintentional lab rat over here.
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on August 16, 2022, 10:43:47 AMYup, unintentional lab rat over here.
Ya got it Bass Ackwards .
You are the Tester and the Reel is the Lab Rat .
No Biggie as I have used some of my old Screwdrivers as Chisels for many years and Ratchets as Hammers. The new stuff says Quite the Contrary.
What ever Floats Your Boat. ;D
nobody askin' the IMPORTANT QUESTION:
howdoesitTASTE? ...better than Elmer's?
The prior to use maintenance of most wire rope used in torpedo handling is treatment with WRL191. The stuff is amazing, keeps line slipping through blocks with tens of tons of pressure with no noticeable stiction. Always figured it would be to spendy for reel maintenance, but I am a believer, some of the rope is stored in free flood areas and submerged for months under high sea pressure and speed, and there is still a layer on it when it is needed for use.
The Man
Quote from: Ron Jones on August 16, 2022, 02:13:52 PMThe prior to use maintenance of most wire rope used in torpedo handling is treatment with WRL191. The stuff is amazing, keeps line slipping through blocks with tens of tons of pressure with no noticeable stiction. Always figured it would be to spendy for reel maintenance, but I am a believer, some of the rope is stored in free flood areas and submerged for months under high sea pressure and speed, and there is still a layer on it when it is needed for use.
The Man
Thanks for your professional and experienced observations about WRL191S, Master Chief —-
I always figured if it was good enough to be used by all arms of the Military, Offshore Oil Rigs, Major Port Crane Operations, Aviation, Railroads, and more —- it must be the best, and expensive.
I was right on the excellent part, wrong on the expensive part. A little goes a long ways. It is actually very economical.
Another excellent grease I use regularly is Yamaha Marine.
Alan told me years ago that he figured if it was good enough for the outdrives on vessels in Salt Water —- it would be good enough for reels also. It, along with Penn Blue —- are excellent greases. And also very economical.
For spinners, I need to cut the Yamaha & Penn with oil. But both mix well with the WRL191S. For Conventionals —- just use them straight.
I have probably had a few drops in my Cheerios by accident with no ill effects after 20+ years of usage.
Best, Fred
Is WRL191S a grease or an oil?
Quote from: nelz on August 16, 2022, 04:03:31 PMIs WRL191S a grease or an oil?
According to Fred it's a Cereal Topping ;D
Thanks for the generous offer Fred, but me being too cheap to shell out 7 bucks for an oiler shouldn't be a reason to impose on you to load a ketchup bottle and post a package.
But I will take advantage f your generous offer when I also need a part or two. You can toss it in the package, and I won't complain :D
-J
My complaint on the Jaymor website was not so much the lack of any technical information, it was more about the QVC style Pitch. I was expecting to see an offer for a free set of Ginsu knives "if you order now".
And they should at least list the viscosity.
I am wondering if 191s is useful for the low friction parts used in casting like spool ball bearings and levelwind worms. That is about all that I use oils for in reels.
Usually a product that is both a protective coating and a lubricant is a compromise. The coating has to adhere to the surfaces to protect them. But if these are sliding or rolling surfaces, the coating either has to come off of one of the surfaces or shear internally in order for the parts to move. Which means more friction. But the lowest friction oil won't stay where you put it, hence the need for immersing the components in an oil bath in this situation. Not suitable for something like a reel.
So the trick is usually not finding a magic product, but rather the product that has the right properties for the job. Telling me that this is the right product for every job is telling me that you are selling snake oil. Which is a shame if the product is actually good stuff.
-J.
Does anyone know where I can buy some snake oil? Dominick
Dominick......Rattlesnake Round-up festival in Taylor, TX. I don't think it's good on Cheerios. Fried snake ain't that great, either. But, as a Texan, I had to eat it and "like" it. Softshell turtle, on the other hand, is excellent.
I've used silicone-based products on guns and reels and never experienced gummy build-ups or problems with tight tolerances. Nothing is going to keep grit off a worm gear, but silicone keeps it slick. CRC spray also adds a bit of shine to dull bakelite...with a little buffing. It seems to solidify the old waxy grease left over after initial removal making it brittle/powdery and easier to completely remove from tight spots. Hard to explain that, but it works well for me.
I've warmed up some A5 shotguns over the years at waterfowl and the silicone stuff just works. I kept a damp rag of it handy in a ziplock and wiped my guns down before and after. I can attest to its rust prevention. Never had a problem with it on stock finishes but I would be careful about flooding interior bare wood surfaces. I don't know how it would affect bare wood or if it could be removed.
It gets my vote for use on the boy toys.
Thinking about it more, it did get put to the test. I had a daiwa BG go underwater in salt for a good 30 seconds. It got a good rinse after but it was 3 days before I could service it. There was trapped water inside but no evidence of any trouble and it works good as new again.
Kind of a pain to remove from tight spaces though, compared to some other greases.
Quote from: Dominick on August 17, 2022, 04:03:57 AMDoes anyone know where I can buy some snake oil? Dominick
There was a Salesman came by shop YEARS AGO selling SLICK 50 oil additive .
It cost 50 BUCKS a can (that's how long ago it was in a CAN) .
So to me he made a SLICK 50 alright if you were Dumb enough to buy it .
I remember that stuff! It sat on the shelf next to the instant engine overhaul juice...in the snake oil section.
Quote from: Shellbelly on August 17, 2022, 04:20:15 PMI remember that stuff! It sat on the shelf next to the instant engine overhaul juice...in the snake oil section.
Bill Mac
The Midnight Cowboy WBAP 820 AM 50 Thousand Watts
use to Hawk that Stuff . MOTO NEW.
Save your Money Folks on that Expensive Ring or Valve Job.
Put a Can of Moto New in your engine and it will repair those Burnt Valves and Busted Rings.
Bill Mac was Famous for discovering Lee Ann Rimes.
That was when 80K was a lotta miles on a motor.
What is SuperLube?
What is Syncolon® (PTFE)?
Prounounced: SIN-coh-luhn
Syncolon® is our branded Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). Super Lube® is enhanced with Syncolon® (PTFE), which is one of the most slippery materials known to science today.
All surfaces have microscopic irregularities, which create friction when rubbed against each other. The introduction of Syncolon® into these irregularities smoothes out the surfaces and offers a long-term solid lubricating compound which enhances the base oil, reducing the wear and sticking that friction causes.
The micron-sized particles of Syncolon® in Super Lube® are carried to these surface irregularities by the base lubricant and are ironed into place by the action of the two moving surfaces. A proprietary process keeps the Syncolon® particles dispersed in the base lubricant assuring a continual replenishment of Syncolon® to the surface irregularities.
Is PTFE same as Teflon?
PTFE is the shortened name of the chemical polytetrafluoroethylene, and Teflon is the trade name of the same polymer.