I just got a 113H YTS kit and the reel seat holes line up perfect with the black 112.
The bar holes at the top and bottom line up but the center hole would need to be drilled.
If anyone makes a YTS kit again with the seat and bars, please add the center hole in each bar so the kit can be used with the Black Senator 112. All you need from here is a long beach 66 stainless spool or a seaboy 190 aluminum spool and we would have a deadly topless black 112 YTS kit with slow gears.
Thanks everyone
Eugene
But nobody cares about a frame for the black 113. A total potential market of 3 buyers... just say no!
The black 113 is the same frame as the 113h. The 112 just needs those center holes on the bars. The 112 black is a powerhouse reel with a 5 stack drag.
Quote from: MarkT on September 02, 2023, 02:24:28 AMBut nobody cares about a frame for the black 113. A total potential market of 3 buyers... just say no!
The change would be easy and cost minimal with CNC machines and give people another option.
Quote from: MarkT on September 02, 2023, 02:24:28 AMBut nobody cares about a frame for the black 113. A total potential market of 3 buyers... just say no!
Nobody cares for snide comments either, but here you are....
Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on September 02, 2023, 04:21:40 PMNobody cares for snide comments either, but here you are....
From a person that knows how hard the change is and can do it.
If it just needs an additional hole on each side of the frame then drill them and tap them and you'd be good to go. I'm not a machinist but even I could do that. But yes, if making a new frame, adding a couple additional holes to support another reel would be the way to go.
I can build just about anything. Making new holes with precision is the issue. If off a hair, everything is for nothing.
Quote from: jigmaster501 on September 02, 2023, 09:45:37 PMI can build just about anything. Making new holes with precision is the issue. If off a hair, everything is for nothing.
You're not wrong. I dont try to measure anything when I'm cutting or drilling on reels. I line it up and mark my holes. But I'm dumb. So take that with a grain of salt.
Screw the side plate on using the 2 existing holes and mark the location for the 3rd hole. It should be dead on, right?
It is far easier and it does not break the anodising to have the hole drilled and tapped by a CNC machine before anodizing and it is not that much work to add a hole to a CAD drawing.
Ok dumb question/devil's advocate if its between 2 other holes, and other established reels still reliably kick butt without that hole filled, couldn't you just leave that screw out?
I wouldn't. Crud or salt water might get under the ring and build up cracking the ring.
Grease the edge of the ring and frame (and new screw hole) and screw it together. How many anodized frames/reels have chips or scratches and still work fine?
The problem with the black 112 is that all the holes don't go to the outer ring. The hole that needs to be drilled is truly needed for structural integrity.
If you really want it done take it to a machine shop and take a sixer with ya lol.
I was thinking about this
If we just left the center hole empty and I filled it with beeswax (to keep out water), would it work.
I looked at some newell reels that have a similar design and I think I will give it a shot to see how it looks.
The top holes will have screws going through and the bottom holes will just be through the inner frame.
The reel seat has the center hole going through.
Do you think this will work?
Eugene
Should work ok I'd guess, worth a try. Same way Newell does it. You'll just have an open hole in the side plate
The seat holes on a black 112 don't fully line up with a 113h seat. It's been tried before. They're off by just a smidge, just enough so screws won't go in
So last year, I took the left side rings off a red 112h, drilled the holes to match on the handle side of the black 112 sideplate and mounted it on a Tiburon frame with a stainless longbeach 65 spool.
I fought a 6+foot porbeagle shark in the Gulf of Maine for 20 minutes until the line parted. I was using 40lb test line and the reel was like a winch. People on the boat could not believe that I did that with a 3/0.
I was very impressed with this reel setup. Tiburon doesn't have any of the TUNA SPECIAL sized reels which would be needed to keep the original sized stainless spools which are very light.
Since getting tiburon tuna special and not bluefin special frames will be impossible, I think drilling the sideplates to fit the 112h tiburon frame and shrinking down to a longbeach 65 spool or a seaboy 190 spool is the ticket.
I was thinking of going the route of making aluminum spacers and making a "half frame" with a regular 112h reel seat and 112h bars with different holes so the side plates can be screwed to this half frame sort of what was done here with the Cutdown Penn 210 that was done here a few years back.
I was thinking of asking if Tiburon would just make 112HN spools with a spool spindle that would fit a black 112 and we only need to drill the holes in the sideplates. In reality, you only need to drill a handle sideplate and use a left side plate from a 112h. If Tom would make a handle side plate for a 112 that fits the holes for a 112h, that would be an option....lol
Eugene, I bet that was loads of fun fighting that shark !!