HELP
I don no nottin bout dis mon...... Bought myself a super nice, used, Cal Star rod, mid-weighted at a hundred pounds. Aftco rollers and huge Aftco butt. This is the finest big rod I've ever owned. Paid a buck and a half and I am ten kinds of happy. I think the rollers go for that retail. Here's the rub...all of the rod wrapping colors are black, red, white. The huge Aftco butt section is Hypalon gripped in bright blue. Bright, swimming pool blue!
My question is... How do I change the color of the Hypalon to a nice simple black? Is there some kind of shoe polish doo-do that can permanently change my light uck blue to black? How bigga deal is it to cut and paste R&R? Or do I get to learn to like it?
H
Hoyt, upholstery spray from auto store works pretty well and dirt cheap to re spray if needed.
Hoyt, would you consider any of the shrink wrap for rods that's available.
...............Lou
Thorhammer....That's a good one, I used that stuff before on car seats and headliners and it did an OK job. It's a possibility. I would try it unless something foolproof comes along.
Yeah, Lou I did, because most of my rods are "deck hand" style and I have that covering all kinds of cracked cork butt wrap. I even wrapped some cord knot designs and then shrink wrap it. But thanks for the suggestion. that's my kinda thinkin.
Yeah I'd heat shrink if that was an option.
i dont have any experiences on this same topic
but I would look for some leather acrilic paints, shoe paints, I know there are some fabric tint (Rit dye tint) on which you boil water, add the tint and then put your desire clothe in there, after few minutes your shirt/pant has new permanent color.
I would boil the water, add the tint and pour it on the blue EVA handles, just cover with tape anything close to the EVA grips to avoid having the tint running on another sections.
this works with fabric but not sure on EVA grips, dont reach me if after every fishing trip your hands, new fishing shirt, etc is cover with black tint from the painting job ;D
You know Steelfish, I have seen some true cobbler workmanship and those guys can do some amazing things. I 'will do some homework on that EVA product and find out just what kind of co-polymer plastic that stuff is made out of. Then I'll see if it is compatible with colorants that are available.
Who knows about the R&R of that stuff?
Maybe shrink wrap flocking? Hmmm~
If it's a calstar it's more likely to be hypalon than eva. Hypalon is soft and spongy eva is hard.Might make a difference in coloring. Shrink tube would be the way to go. Comes in 3' sections so might as well do both grips. Sheridan
one of my rods rotted in the garage so I used shrink wrap on the foregrip and replaced the EVA on the butt...better than new now.
-Mike
Swami105: Although it is a custom job, that describes exactly what is there. The wrapper called himself Rusty Hook and he used the best products IMO but only double wrapped the guides on a power rod. Makes sense for hundred and fifty bucks
Mike...after further investigation I would agree with your fix. The fore-grip (gun speak) is nearly impossible to replace because you can't get it over the reel seat screw clamp. The only way that went on is before the blank was set. So absolutely yes to the shrink flocking fore grip.
I can mess around with the rearmost portion and if I make it FUBAR, I can cut it off and go with new BLACK replacement.
I think that's the answer. It makes the best sense for bucks, do-ability and outcome. Done deal!
I'll leave the thread laying around for a week or so to share the knowledge and just in case something ingenious pops up. I'll throw in a before and after too.
Thanks guys,
Hoyt
That sure looks like hypalon. Here's a picture of Eva and hypalon. The short one is Eva hypalon is a little heavier and soft when you squeeze it ,Eva is lighter and pretty hard. Neither is better than the other just different. Just thought I'd point it out in case you ordered it you'd get what you needed.
$150 for that rod is a steal. Top of the line aftco components alone would cost more than that. Double wrapped guides should hold up fine. Hope you hang a couple good ones on it. Sheridan
Yeah, I couldn't shake that mans hand fast enough. Here, take my money.
I didn't order it to my specifications but the name of the man that did is boldly written on the pole and I do not care! The CalStar is a number 7469H which is a blank number I had heard about here on ATs site as being a quality stick. I am super stoked.
I'm modding a beast of a 6/0 114HL which started life as a seven screw post model but when it's finished it'll be a lifetime rig and maybe a cherished hand me down to my son. But make no mistake I am going to try as hard as I can to wear that sukah plumb out in my time.
Yeah, you got over a bill easy just in Aftco bits, based on the Crudhole rag I just received, another bill at least on the blank, then the build labor. Good score. Cross fleck, he your friend on this one, rather than the spray.
Great info here... Thanks Hoyt and all.
Steve
Like everyone has said, the fore grip is there unless you remove the guides. Heat shrink is a good fix but there are different sizes of cold shrink. I've used cold shrink with good results on a rear grip of my jigging rod and fore grips for rail rods. 3M makes it and it is in many different sizes but the main thing is to measure the rings and hood of the seat to make sure it will slide over. I'd remove the rear grip and use the cold shrink or go with a slick butt. Just a thought and hope all works out for you.
Dave
Figured I'd take a couple of pics of the cold shrink. Slide it over the blank and pull the plastic off and as it unwinds it forms to the blank. Cool stuff.
Here are 3 sizes and I know they make way more. You can see how much it shrinks down to. A lot of the commercial tuna guys out here are using it on the unibutt as they do most of the work from the rod holder and it doesn't chew it up.
Dave
nice, first time hearing about cold shrink tube, looks pretty cool
Cold shrink? Now there's new trick for this old dog. I like it. Aaand pictures too! Woo-hoo! Getting close to a plan here, guys. Proper names for the parts of the butt section. If I don't watch my Ps and Qs, I may just learn something here.
Is this "Cold Shrink a "system" by the Minnesota Mining folks. The expansion coil in particular.
What thoughts do you all have about the Aftco "Max Force 1" stand-up harness. Any ideas?
Hoyt
I've only personally used heat shrink, but Jon Vadney showed me the cold shrink he applies and I was sold. IMO it looks more durable than heat shrink especially for a rail or butt application. I think Alan has it as rail pad on his UC's from Jon; he might weigh in after the recent LR trip.
I have used both the cold shrink in the last pictures and the heat. The cold is a thicker rubber like tube feeling, and definitely will wear better in a rod holder, and the heat shrink thinner and quite available, versatile. You might dye it first, with leather dye etc, then cover it when you change your mind.... I like a slick butt for the rodholder priority rods and they are inexpensive and wear well. just my 2 cents worth..... You got a lot of options. :'(
Here is one I forgot about. We did a jig rod that was designed to be used on the rail (butt section) for jigging. The owner was at the John Deere equipment shop and saw some hydraulic hose. This is the ultimate! Steel reinforced. I slid the hose up from the butt (shimmed about every 2 inches) and then used heat shrink to cover the areas where the steel could come through. I did a lot of filing before the hose went on. Sometimes we get way too much time on our hands.
now that's HD right there
I been tryin to egumicate myself and I must admit, I am overwhelmed with Slick Butt, Tuff Butt and the like. Personally, I'd like to see some Party Butt around here. Ah well.
The Cold Shrink has it's place and it brings a fix to something previously un-fixable. The downside is it looks like a radiator hose on your Chevy. Beyond that, the longer sizes get real pricey real fast. Nearly 75 bucks for my need and Blue Hypalon is starting to look good! There is a less expensive Tool Handle repair version but those are all about 8 inches long and won't cover my fore end grip.
I am fairly convinced that I am going to re-do the fore end with flocked, heat shrink and probably a full R&R of the 10" long butt section.
Here's some links to places I have been.......
https://www.amazon.com/Stiletto-AG-102-AirGrip-Coldshrink-Diameter/dp/B001445114
http://www.anglersworkshop.com/Heat-Shrink-Tubing/Rubber-Shrink-Tubing
http://www.anglersworkshop.com/Handle-Components
http://www.captharry.com/fishing-accessories/harnesses/aftco-maxforce-i-stand-up-harness.html
Hoyt
Hoyt, I have to do the same thing in a bit; I have a cracked reel seat that has to be replaced so I'm going to shrink the fore while I'm in there. haven't decided on rear yet.
take pics
I just remembered that Ted colored some EVA knobs with Plasti-Dip. You can find it here: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=18265.0
-Mike
Quote from: PacRat on January 13, 2017, 04:36:58 PM
I just remembered that Ted colored some EVA knobs with Plasti-Dip. You can find it here: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=18265.0
-Mike
Thanks, I have 4 ProGear handles that this will go well on.
If you use the rod for trolling or other fishing out of rod holders, as mentioned previously in this thread, a slick or aluminum butt would be the best bet. Some of these butts could often be found at lower costs than the 3M Coldshrink.
And yes, dropping it in and getting it out of rod holder under load is definitely a concern, no question about that. That part of the rod isn't really used for anything else other than a rod holder. Probably Tuff Butt, Slick Butt from what I have seen.
You ain't gonna believe this.. The huge magic markers that the hoodlums use to tag everything. Well they do a bang-up job of changing the color of your Hypalon pole butt foam material. When the stink is gone it does not rub off. Don't get it near alcohol. The ink comes right off and is messy as hell. Other than that it is very permanent.
I will post pics soon.
Good. I didn't want to say anything Hoyt, but that was the ugliest fishing rod I've ever seen.
-steve
Yepper bruddah. That butt ugly pole was screaming do not buy me, so I bought it. I think the guy that had it made wanted it to be easily identifiable in the rack surrounded by all the pretty ones? I dunno. Like another member said...the hardware cost more than I paid for the whole thing.
In my travels I found some nice things to cover blue Hypalon with. Seems anything over a couple feet long is double and triple the price per foot than a one foot piece. Here's a few more links.....
http://www.therodroom.com/shop/pc/X-FLOCK-SHRINK-TUBING-p1531.htm
http://www.anglersworkshop.com/Heat-Shrink-Tubing/Rubber-Shrink-Tubing
There is some double wall industrial shrink tubing that has glue on the inside for extra heavy duty usage. It is available in black and red and it looks very much like a garden hose.
Here's a few pics of the magic marker version If it wears off I can do the shrink tubing version to fix it up but so far I am out 2.56 bucks.
It came out great.
-steve
You need to mash it down into the cells to get a nice even tone. I wore out 2 of those magnum sharpies and I need one more to get it right. I tried a red band....it was mostly black looking so that was a no go. It does look a lot better and I think it'll hold up under use. l'll finish it up and get some pics for y'all.
H
Photo of the Month material....made me spew beer brother.....really cool beans
http://alantani.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=20339.0;attach=29536;image
Awww. You jus funnin me. Beer spraying in the atmosphere is the real pic of the month. Oh no...it's etched in my memory and I can't get it out.
I would use black flocking from Mud Hole to change the color of the grips. It's easy to apply and actually improves the grip. You can't change the color of the wraps but you can add a different color epoxy over top the wraps. Again, Mud Hole Tackle sells epoxy die that you mix up and apply.
Been rainin cats 'n dogs here in SoCal. Messes with my arthritis something fierce. I have been feeling like a sub-human species for a week now. OK back to the game at hand...I used Sharpie magnum on the lower part and leather dye on the top part.
After drying a few days, I took it to the harbor and gave it a salt water soak. I worked it over with a plastic bristle scrubber and the results were not to my liking. As most of you have suggested I have the black X-flocked shrink tubing on the way.
Pole building suppliers want a kings ransom for 1 1/2 in. dia. material, IF they even have it. 40mm X 1m tubing is coming from an industrial supplier as well as some double wall, glued, waterproof electrical shrink material (Tuff Butt) for the lower portion. I may have to sand the Hypalon because with the double wall material it may not even fit in a pole holder. We shall see.
Who can give me a common size, diameter measurement of a boat rod holder?
~H
2". you should be ok. works on the ones I've done, and you are correct, regular industrial stuff much cheaper. where are you in SoCal?
The flocking kit I'm talking about is not shrink tubing. It is actual flocking fibers you apply over a bonding agent applied to the hypalon. Shrink will look like crap. True flocking will look custom. Kits run about $40 and you could do 5 handles. Comes in many colors.
Here's a pic of the handle and foregrip of and old bamboo boat that I applied flocking to. It was the typical looking brown wood common to these types of rods. You just paint the surface to be flocked with the special glue then you dust the fibers on. It's permanent and won't lose its color. Trust me it's the best way to go for what you want to do.
Mike, where do you get that kit? I saw that in your thread and it got my attention.
Here's a link: http://www.flockit.com/index.php/products/suede-tex/mini-flocker-kits.html
Only buy the nylon fibers for fishing applications. Easy to apply and looks amazing.
Well there it is! The genius I was looking for before I spent my money. Where u been mon? Unfortunately, I am going to have to do this process next winter as I have my finances committed to another procedure. Drat! My rod deserves this procedure and not the band-aid I'm throwing at it.
I gave that site the once over and I do not see a "Kit" anywhere. H~in Vista, CA.
Here's the link: http://www.flockit.com/index.php/products/suede-tex/mini-flocker-kits.html
Make sure you buy NYLON fibers. Good luck and we want to see the finished product.
Hoyt, there's a few guys that sell shrink wrap on ebay and its fairly reasonable. The stuff will the glue inside is killer durable. It was originally made for the cable TV guys to cover connectors and splices.
I've used it on connectors from back in my radio days and it really seals. We used it on direct burial cable and no leaks over a 10 yr span. Does not remove easily! I believe made by 3M.
...................Lou
Thank you, thank you. I will buy the kit in the next month or so as money will allow. The reel for this rod is kinda sucking my wallet dry right now. I had to buy a stainless gear-set and yoke because the Motive Drag Insert I put in it, blew the bronze bushing out of my Penn steel main.
I'm going to live with the shrink wrap for this season. I will do the flocking procedure after the season is over. Fishing last year was total crazy time, I hope this coming Tuna season will allow me to land a 60-80 BFT, YFT maybe a nice Albi if the water temp cools off. Gotta get me a harness too. It's only money. H~
Post script....
I was reminded that my previous statement about blowing out the bronze bushing was not possible with the drag exerting pressure from both sides. Under pressure the reel made and awful sound and locked the main to the gear sleeve. It had spun the bushing within the main with pieces still attached to the main and larger chunks floating around the gear sleeve causing the stoppage.
This is the end of "Change Hyplaon Grip Color" series. I went down a road or two trying to do this as right as my limited budget will allow and I'll share them with you.
My solution, as many of you suggested, was to obtain "X Flocked Shrink Tubing" and re-cover the fore-end of the Aftco reel seat. I sealed the ends of the shrink tubing with a couple coats of clear fingernail polish. I did a good job of lining up the Xs with the guides and the whole job looks great. As for strength....I have used a fair amount of this X flocked shrink tubing on my other lighter rods and it is made thicker in the larger diameters. The 1 1/2 inch diameter material mics out at .056 and the 2 3/8 inch (40mm) material mics at .076.
The rear, Butt portion of the of the pole was a complete R&R of the Hypalpn Grip and it turned out looking like a pro install. The learning curve was "grasp as you go" because I didn't have a clue other than order a meter of replacement material. The glue the pole builders use for this procedure is quite permanent. It needed all kinds of chemical and mechanical persuasion to get the pole cleaned off and ready for the new Hypalon. I used 100% silicone for glue and alcohol for clean-up and I sanded the ends for a proper "rolled and tapered edge" finish.
Honorable mention needs to go to a coloring product. It is called "Angelus Flat Black Acrylic Leather Paint." Steelfish put me on to this idea and it gets my official 99%, good enough, okay-dokey. If I was in a pinch for time and/or money this product would have gotten the job done. The salt water wash and scrub test was absolutely acceptable for the newly colored Hypalon. Costs 6 bucks on e bay.
Finally; I will proudly use this pole as finished to this point and thank you all very much. After this year's Tuna fishing season, I will most likely sand and prep all the Hypalon and do the entire foam Flocking process as brought to us by contributor "The Great Maudu". I will do some strength testing of the Foam Flocking before I completely ruin this rod. I will also install the industrial, "double wall & glued", shrink tubing for the aft section after sanding the existing Hypalon.
Thanks to all,
H~
That's a pro job Hoyt....I'd fish that all day and twice on Sunday ;D. Bill
Well thank you for those kind words. And they'll do as encouragement when I get to the follow up edition as well. It's a healthy blow to one's ego to admit you're cheap but when you come up with something like this it's easier to admit and accept one's thrifty nature.
I am waiting on a few reel pieces to finish her off. I have been after Adam @ Motive to finish making some offset arms for the 114H and I have a nice lightweight 18 degree offset handle to go on that offset arm. That ought to make life a little easier.
I am still after the fighting harness and pieces that make stand-up fighting easier on my busted back. I was wondering why this Aftco reel seat and butt section were so friggin huge and it makes all the sense in the world when you see how it sits in the Aftco fighting harness. The gimbal piece locks into the designed receptacle below your huevos.
Yanking hard on something that's yanking back with the fulcrum just below your twins, now that's got to be an interesting arrangement. I can hardly wait......
H~