All I can say is that PB Blaster was a gift from the reel gods. I have had a matching gold accurate jigmaster on my bench for over 2 weeks trying to coax the bearing cap from the sideplate. It was completely seized even after soaking with corrosionX to the point of bending a flathead tip and I was contemplating drilling it out. 2 hours of soaking with PB and a few mallet taps and it moved. I seriously thought I was hallucinating the first time the bearing cap moved. Rocked it back and forth a few more times and she came loose with the help of a snug fitting flat head and channel locks for extra torque. So if anyone here has any seized part, before going thru drastic measures or giving up...try this product out first. I think it was either Sal or google that recommended it, either way THANK YOU! Happy wrenching/fishing, Aloha! ;D
If you liked PB Blaster, try Seafoam Deep Creep. I switched to it after doing several comparison test on rusted bolts. Try putting a little of each on the end of a rusty nail and see which climbs up the nail faster and further. Plus you can put it in your fuel line to free up sticky carb floats.
I keep both on the bench, plus Corrosion Bock and Super Slick Stuff for bearings. TS 321 not readily available in my area but the Super Slick tripled free spool on the 980 I serviced before my OBX trip last week.
J
I think PB blaster is marginal at best. Kriol is king of the commercial stuff, but the acetone/atf mix is what I use.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1433151
You can google penetrating oil tests and the article referenced there comes up over and over. My personal experiences match those results.
Its not always feasible on reels, but the first thing Ill do to remove stuck fasteners is heat. Being a machinist, I see quite a few fasteners broken, seized, etc, that need to be removed without damaging the part. Its rare that I cant get one out with heat.
Quote from: Three se7ens on October 09, 2015, 05:00:32 AM
I think PB blaster is marginal at best. Kriol is king of the commercial stuff, but the acetone/atf mix is what I use.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1433151
You can google penetrating oil tests and the article referenced there comes up over and over. My personal experiences match those results.
Its not always feasible on reels, but the first thing Ill do to remove stuck fasteners is heat. Being a machinist, I see quite a few fasteners broken, seized, etc, that need to be removed without damaging the part. Its rare that I cant get one out with heat.
Haha you learn something new every day on here! Next time I've got a stuck screw or bolt I'll give the atf/acetone mix a shot since I've got those in the garage. Thanks Adam
I agree with Three se7ens on the acetone and atf. I keep a small spray bottle of it on my bench. A well driller friend of mine swears by oil of wintergreen as a penetrant for rust. I haven't tried it but plan to. I'll have to try Kriol to see how it works too. There are so many variables that will seize up a reel ( rust, corrosion, salt, scale, sand etc. ) it's hard to find one the frees all of them.
Will the acetone in the acetone/ATF melt plastic like straight acetone will. I know from experience that acetone will melt a red beer cup. I was cleaning up something on my boat and used a red beer cup to hold the acetone. Sat it down and when I picked it up a minute later it was melting and turning my propane locker red. Lesson learned, at least it wasn't the deck. Ken
No Yogy, that wasn't me, I would never recommend that stuff. I used it once and would never use it again.
This isn't fair to the manufacturer, that stuff will get the job done, but personally, I can't take the stench.
If it is working out for you, that's great.
Sal
I have had very good results with Kroil that is used by gunsmiths. PB parts buster has also worked good for me. For soaking parts to clean them I have used Pronto paint brush cleaner and it works great. It is the Home Depot house brand and it is very reasonable. It works about as good or maybe a little better than the acetone/ATF mixture for cleaning reel parts like gears, metal drag washers, yokes, screws and other metal parts. I usually soak the parts for at least a day or longer.
Some great info here-Thanks everyone for posting!
At least Im not the only one who truly despises the smell of pb blaster. Its just aweful, and seems to follow you into the house after you use it.
Its almost as bad as the degreaser I use(gunk SC degreaser in kerosene). I wont even pop the lid without gloves, because you cant wash the smell off your hands. But I have never seen a more potent degreaser.
Quote from: Three se7ens on October 15, 2015, 03:59:04 AM
At least Im not the only one who truly despises the smell of pb blaster. Its just aweful, and seems to follow you into the house after you use it.
Its almost as bad as the degreaser I use(gunk SC degreaser in kerosene). I wont even pop the lid without gloves, because you cant wash the smell off your hands. But I have never seen a more potent degreaser.
I use the same degreaser mix and it does wonders but keep the lid closed..!!
i do 1 part atf, 1 part acetone, 1 part mineral spirit, & 1 part coleman kerosene. works great as a degreaser metal parts.
Kroil X2 I use pb blaster as well, but outside, not in the shop.
I have to agree the PB Blaster stinks to High Heaven.
I got it on some gloves trying to loosen a hood latch in the winter.
I Threw the gloves and the blaster in the garbage.
Quote from: long haired country boy on January 25, 2017, 02:32:59 AM
i do 1 part atf, 1 part acetone, 1 part mineral spirit, & 1 part coleman kerosene. works great as a degreaser metal parts.
What is ATF? Automatic Transmission Fluid?
Correct.
I think from reading the link that ATF stands for Acetone+Transmission Fluid
Andy
I have read many times on firearms forums that people will submerge a neglected handgun in transmission fluid and let it marinate for a week or more before cracking it open. I haven't had a reel bad enough to require this but if I did, I wouldn't hesitate. ATF typically wont harm plastic (that's Automatic Transmission Fluid without acetone). I have read about adding acetone and they have a name for that like 'Red's____'....but I can't remember exactly.
Mike
I feel the same way about these products -- they all work well in their own way -- results are good -- but the stench and dangers are unacceptable to me.
I have a large kerosene parts cleaner that I feel the same way about -- odors that you can never remove, oily, messy, flammable, etc..
My cleaning is done in a shop within my house -- so that stuff is a non-starter.
Even if it was my outside shop, I edge towards clean air and safety.
Just my opinions --
Best,
Fred
I looked up the ATF mix. It's known as 'Ed's Red'. You can google search it and get a lot of opinions and recipes. It seems the acetone is mostly for cleaning plastic wadding residue from shotgun bores.
"Ed's Red is equal parts of Dexron III ATF, kerosene, mineral spirits, and acetone. I have used it for years without the acetone and have never had it separate. I have heard that the newer water based mineral spirits will not work well so remember to use the petroleum based mineral spirits. The ATF and acetone formula is supposed to be an excellent penetrating oil."
Just be careful when purchasing your chemicals as many (especially here in CA) aren't what they claim to be anymore. May of these will read something like this,"TURPENTINE substitute" or 'MINERAL SPIRITS substitute". Lesson...read the fine print and make certain it's what you think it is.
Mike
Thanks for the clarification.
I use 50:50 Acetone : Dextron ATF, but i may have to ad some mineral spirts and/or White Gas to the mix. Best to keep this in a sealed metal container and use in a well ventilated area away from spark or flame.
I use mineral spirts, vinegar, and simple green as my primary cleaners, but sometimes Purple degreaser, back to black(for bakelight and vulcanized rubber), wd-40 (for lacquered/badly dried heavy grease removal), diluted HCL (for bad vertiquois), and OSPho (phosphoric acid) gels to restore corroded steel/chrome, and metal polish or never dull.
John
Quote from: steelhead_killer on January 25, 2017, 05:44:42 PM
I think from reading the link that ATF stands for Acetone+Transmission Fluid
Andy
ATF is automatic transmission fluid without any other additives,
The concoction after that is up to you.
Quote from: long haired country boy on January 25, 2017, 02:32:59 AM
i do 1 part atf, 1 part acetone, 1 part mineral spirit, & 1 part coleman kerosene. works great as a degreaser metal parts.
looks like bomb formula too
Question guys what would you recommend
To remove frozen bolts on a penn 10/0 without
Harming the Bakelite plastic ends I have the
Eccentric lever flower nut is frozen I think it's
Just from sitting and there's a film like the reel
Was stored in a kitchen or something anyway
I'm looking for the best way to get that loose
With little to no damage to the reel any ideas would be
Greatly appreciated thanx
Scott
Scott,
Patience is your best ally here. Whatever you do, go slow and easy. Make sure you're using the proper wrench on the flower nut. Don't soak the entire plate in anything for any amount of time as the bakelite can (and likely will) swell. Does your flower nut have an oiler port? If so, put a small amount of your favorite penetrating oil there. Hopefully your reel is disassembled and you can lay your plate flat with the oil port down so that the oil will stay at that side. I would let is soak overnight before attempting to loosen it. If the first attempt fails; repeat it again. After two or three attempts and it still doesn't free up, you can try a variety of temperature variables...but nothing too extreme. You can place the plate in the freezer and/or very warm water. What your attempting to do is break the bond between the flower nut and eccentric by contraction (shrinking) and expansion. Both parts are brass so unfortunately they will react about the same to temperature changes. If it were mine (and penetrating oil didn't work); I would freeze the plate and then quickly apply a soldering iron to the flower nut. (be careful that you don't heat damage the plate!) If that didn't work I would re-freeze it and then apply heat to the eccentric. If that failed I would go back to penetrating oil for an overnight soak and then I would grip the eccentric in a vise and really put it to it with the wrench (Alan Tani wrench would be optimum) and hopefully it either breaks free or you break the flower nut off in the eccentric and you've saved the plate and will only need to replace the broken parts.
Good luck...and let us know how it goes.
Mike
Ok Mike will do thanx for the ideas
Scott
Quote from: PacRat on January 26, 2017, 09:42:40 PM
Scott,
Patience is your best ally here. Whatever you do, go slow and easy. Make sure you're using the proper wrench on the flower nut. Don't soak the entire plate in anything for any amount of time as the bakelite can (and likely will) swell. Does your flower nut have an oilier port? If so, put a small amount of your favorite penetrating oil there. Hopefully your reel is disassembled and you can lay your plate flat with the oil port down so that the oil will stay at that side. I would let is soak overnight before attempting to loosen it. If the first attempt fails; repeat it again. After two or three attempts and it still doesn't free up, you can try a variety of temperature variables...but nothing too extreme. You can place the plate in the freezer and/or very warm water. What your attempting to do is break the bond between the flower nut and eccentric by contraction (shrinking) and expansion. Both parts are brass so unfortunately they will react about the same to temperature changes. If it were mine (and penetrating oil didn't work); I would freeze the plate and then quickly apply a soldering iron to the flower nut. (be careful that you don't heat damage the plate!) If that didn't work I would re-freeze it and then apply heat to the eccentric. If that failed I would go back to penetrating oil for an overnight soak and then I would grip the eccentric in a vise and really put it to it with the wrench (Alan Tani wrench would be optimum) and hopefully it either breaks free or you break the flower nut off in the eccentric and you've saved the plate and will only need to replace the broken parts.
Good luck...and let us know how it goes.
Mike
Great advice from Mike...
Best,
Fred
I haven't met an eccentric lever or handle nut that couldn't be tamed with an Alan Tani Wrench.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 27, 2017, 06:33:29 AM
I haven't met an eccentric lever or handle nut that couldn't be tamed with an Alan Tani Wrench.
I'll admit I snapped a head off of one once. Extracted the remaining threaded portion with a reverse tap, and replaced with new. I think it was on a heavily corroded older International 80. The reel was tost anyways and came in a bucket full of International 'parts reels' and parts. Managed to make 3 reels out of 5, after throwing in some new parts.
Getting a grip on it isn't the hard part I'm
Just so afraid I'll break something if I push
Or pull to hard I've done that before with stuff
That wasn't supposed to break so I'm being very
Careful slow and not rushing or forcing anything
I washed it with soap and hot water then took a
Needle and filled the oil fitting with ATF and
Turpentine I'll let that sit for a day or so and then see
If things let go I just don't want to break the
Bakelite I do thank you all for your great ideas
I'm sure I will need more help as I get into
This reel
Scott
Haha wow this thread is old. Just to be clear guys....I have improved my wrenching techniques/knowledge since then. I now know about the ATF/Acetone 50/50 mix for future use. I still haven't run into something seized as badly as that bearing cup that I NEEDED to save since then.