the spectra on this reel was spooled on way too loosely. it all bunched up into a jumbled mess. it's going to get stripped off, repacked and then a proper topshot will be added. it's getting to the point where it's not good enough to just service a reel. the guy still has to be able to fish with it. unless it's spooled up properly, he's going to have problems. gotta fix this!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/15/1_19_08_16_8_39_35_150112357.jpeg)
I once snagged a lobster buoy with a reel while trolling. It was packed with green power pro. Line looked exactly like that after I was done. The line was never quite the same. Braid bite is ugly.
I'm going to have to check mine!
Alan I see that many times on reels that the backing was never taken off. Ive had to get a razor blade to the line just to get it off.
I hear this about braid all the time.
But once the line is pulled off while fishing, is it actually going back on tight? Unless you have the drag tight and a big fish, isn't it going back on a little looser?
Ran - Yep it will - that's why I re-spool braid after every trip (with a power winder - of course ;)) It only takes a couple of minutes :)
How unfortunate you don't live next door.
;D
there. that looks better!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/15/1_20_08_16_11_19_07_150141894.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/15/1_20_08_16_11_19_06_150131131.jpeg)
it's important to start with a clean spool and apply a light coat of grease. the product i use is yamaha marine grease, my favorite for years. what you use is not so important, just as long as you use something. THEN you can add the double layer of flex wrap. here's an example of why it's important to grease the entire spool., you'll see corrosion UNDER the tape.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/15/1_22_08_16_10_39_06_15015835.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/15/1_22_08_16_10_39_07_150161388.jpeg)
when i pulled the tape off, this is what i found.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/15/1_22_08_16_10_39_18_150182392.jpeg)
so, a light coat of grease on the spool. if you apply too much, just wipe off the excess with a old rag. then you can apply the flex wrap and wind on the line. don't assume the tape will protect the spool. it won't.
The tape doesn't slip with the grease?
I think it's gooey enough that it sticks.
Joe, not a reel expert answer but I would compare it to a fly reel with fly line and backing.
The flyline being the thicker diameter of the two, you get a whole lot more yards of braid as backing to handle a long running, hard fighting fish.
Especially when you hook a bonefish, permit or even a carp.
That fish is going w-a-a-a-y farther than a 110 feet of flyline before it can be turned or tires out.
Same with the conventional reel...more yardage of fish fighting braided line vs mono for long deep runs.
hope that makes sense.
Someone correct me otherwise.
Joe, braid slips on the spool arbor if you tie directly to it. Mono does not. The first few yards of mono is to keep the line achored to the arbor, the braid over top is for strength and durability, and the mono topshot (some use) is to provided some stretch to the line during the cast; braid has zero stretch and poor abrasion resistance and shouldn't be used to tie directly to the arbor.
Sid
Quote from: Reel 224 on August 23, 2016, 02:42:21 PM
My other question was. If waxing the spool was as good as coating it with grease as Alan has done.
Joe
I would bet the jury is still out on that one and the answers you get will probably not be factual but personal preference. Either wax or grease will put a hydrophobic (water-repelling) layer between the metal and the water. If they never touch there is no corrosion. My guess is that the toughest of the two layers would be the most useful, and that would be the wax, but I'm just guessing.
Sid
Joe, as noted mono will slip directly on spool; I had a shop spool a couple of Penn spinners for me and they didn't put on a few yards of mono to prevent this... ended badly. "Braid-ready" reels, such as new Penn spinners, have a rubber band inset into spool to provide grab. Now, the below is my personal rigging for different applications; and is only my opinion for some specific applications of my own:
Casting with spinners, don't need miles of capacity for running fish but need sensitivity and distance on the cast: spool with mono backing up to where I can load a 150 yd spool of braid on top (lb test appropriate for application), with a few feet of mono or fluoro for shock leader.
Where I need heavy test AND capcity: some yards of mono backer to prevent slip, fill spool with braid, top shot of mono / fluoro. For instance, for high speed wahoo trolling at 17 knots with lure 300 yds behind boat, I back my 80's with 250 yards of 100 mono, then 500 yds 200 braid, then 100 feet of 150 lb mono for shock leader. This tactic puts a lot of stress on tackle as we are pulling a two pound lure at 17 knots; if a 'hoo hits going the other way you have to have tackle with stones and a lot of capacity not to get dumped with 300 yds of line already out. Clearly the 200 braid has no stretch, which is why we use 100 ft mono as a true shock absorber.
Jigging / bottom fishing with conventional or spinning: 20 ft 65 to 100 lb fluoro, 300 yds 50 to 100 lb braid, backed to spool with 30 to 50 lb mono (this covers torium 20 / jigmaster size reels up to 4/0 conventional reels and my 9500SS's; I use straight 80 mono on 6/0's).
John
Quote from: Reel 224 on August 23, 2016, 02:42:21 PM
I believe Steve-O explained that in his post, and that sounded reasonable to me from the aspect of wanting more line to fight the fish with.
Joe
Yup, knowing that at any given strength mono will be wider than braid, you can pack more braid on any reel as compared to the amount of mono it will hold. (I know you know this, others may not) Braid is softer and ties easier with less knot security in my hands. Mono has more abrasion resistance and fluorocarbon line, with a clear advantage of being almost invisible in water, has too much memory to be used on a spinner (although it can work well on a conventional (it's stiffer than other monofilament line), but it has no stretch so isn't as good as mono if you're wanting a top shot when throwing heavy irons). A light rod with braid and a fluoro topshot would be a very sensitive rod; not much to dampen the vibrations of the prey at the other end of the line .... lots of factors to be considered when choosing line types and diameters for a specific fishing application.... probably more than one are "right".
Sid
as far as wax versus grease, it started out as just a matter of convenience. i had lots of old greasy toothbrushes laying around and used those, plus an old swiss army knife, to spin the spool on the winder under high speed and remove the corrosion. i think it's less an issue of what you use and more a matter of just using something, anything, to get into the pores of the aluminum and prevent corrosion. personally, though, i would trust the engineers at yamaha on salt water corrosion before the guys at car quest.
regarding the flex wrap, i like it because it is sticky as hell, but can be easily removed. i don't like mono at the bottom of the spool. never did. that's just me. with the spectra packed tight, i think there are fewer places for water to sit. with mono, i think there is more room for water to intrude. plus, i want to make absolutely sure that the line breaks at the fish end rather than the reel end, just in case you hook into an ocean liner.
and for rigging, we commonly use spectra backing with a mono or fluorocarbon topshot. the spectra is purely for line capacity with smaller reels. this is how i can get 800 yards of spectra with a 25 yard mono or fluoro topshot on a mid-sized makaira 20. i am taking a mak 16, 20 and 50 when i go to puerto vallarta with ben.
Sid, braid doesn't slip on the arbor if tied correctly.
I wax the spool with carnauba wax - applied with a Dremel and mini mop (it can't be applied by hand).
I then wrap 2 or 3 layers of self-fuse/easy-fuse tape over the arbor.
I then wrap the braid 3 times around the arbor.
Then I tie an arbor knot - against one edge of the spool - leaving a long tag (which can then be trapped under successive layers of braid)
Never - ever- has it ever slipped.
I can't see the point in using mono under braid - it will get crushed/distorted/whatever - it's just totally unnecessary IMHO
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on August 23, 2016, 10:12:11 PM
Sid, braid doesn't slip on the arbor if tied correctly.
I wax the spool with carnauba wax - applied with a Dremel and mini mop (it can't be applied by hand).
I then wrap 2 or 3 layers of self-fuse/easy-fuse tape over the arbor.
I then wrap the braid 3 times around the arbor.
Then I tie an arbor knot - against one edge of the spool - leaving a long tag (which can then be trapped under successive layers of braid)
Never - ever- has it ever slipped.
I can't see the point in using mono under braid - it will get crushed/distorted/whatever - it's just totally unnecessary IMHO
I don't tie on mono first either. I used to until I read some instructions on Jerry Brown's website that said to do the arbor knot and long tag end. Haven't had any problems with this method.
Quote from: spc7669 on August 24, 2016, 12:36:47 AM
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on August 23, 2016, 10:12:11 PM
Sid, braid doesn't slip on the arbor if tied correctly.
I wax the spool with carnauba wax - applied with a Dremel and mini mop (it can't be applied by hand).
I then wrap 2 or 3 layers of self-fuse/easy-fuse tape over the arbor.
I then wrap the braid 3 times around the arbor.
Then I tie an arbor knot - against one edge of the spool - leaving a long tag (which can then be trapped under successive layers of braid)
Never - ever- has it ever slipped.
I can't see the point in using mono under braid - it will get crushed/distorted/whatever - it's just totally unnecessary IMHO
I don't tie on mono first either. I used to until I read some instructions on Jerry Brown's website that said to do the arbor knot and long tag end. Haven't had any problems with this method.
I have also used Jerry Brown's method using the long tag end without slippage for years. I do not even bother with the tape.
I wonder if grease might deteriorate the mono in any way? Is there a grease that's known to be safe on mono? I believe the braid is pretty bullet-proof as far as that goes.
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on August 23, 2016, 10:12:11 PM
Sid, braid doesn't slip on the arbor if tied correctly.
I wax the spool with carnauba wax - applied with a Dremel and mini mop (it can't be applied by hand).
I then wrap 2 or 3 layers of self-fuse/easy-fuse tape over the arbor.
I then wrap the braid 3 times around the arbor.
Then I tie an arbor knot - against one edge of the spool - leaving a long tag (which can then be trapped under successive layers of braid)
Never - ever- has it ever slipped.
I can't see the point in using mono under braid - it will get crushed/distorted/whatever - it's just totally unnecessary IMHO
Noted....good tip!
You guys are Bad ####~!
Thanks for giving me another thought to go back and look my reels over.
Just when I thought I was doing alright.....................................
Thanks for the kick in the head
Came across this last year. The guy was wondering why his reel kept engaging when he'd cast. The line was digging into the soft spooling.
Had to take a lot of line off to find this. Pretty weird.
Quote from: Reel 224 on August 30, 2016, 03:19:36 AM
Larry: That line was wrapped to loose and slipped on the spool, that's why it bunched up.
Joe
x
Yep. Just never came across such a "good" example.
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on August 23, 2016, 10:12:11 PM
I can't see the point in using mono under braid - it will get crushed/distorted/whatever - it's just totally unnecessary IMHO
Many spinning reels hold 200 or so yards of the size braid to be used.....braid is conveniently sold in 150 yard spools. Mono underneath fills up the spool some and saves money when you don't need more than 150 yards of braid.
Solid braid is as cheap as chips (but lasts longer ;)) It can also be spliced into hollow core and then a mono/floro top shot - knot free - no problem
Again why bother with mono backing :-\
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on September 01, 2016, 05:55:33 PM
Solid braid is as cheap as chips (but lasts longer ;)) It can also be spliced into hollow core and then a mono/floro top shot - knot free - no problem
Again why bother with mono backing :-\
I just told you why. Where I fish and how I fish, I use a light spinning outfit to throw relatively light lures. Braid is great for casting these lures and feeling the strike and its strong enough to handle the occasional big one. I use power pro super slick, not cheap stuff (if you can get power pro super slick cheaper than mono please tell me where). I will never see the bottom of my spool, so why have expensive line there? I use mono to fill up some of the spool and I top it with the expensive braid. This is one reason to bother with mono backing. If I'm grouper fishing, the drag is very tight and the fish don't run. They are extremely strong though so it's not uncommon to use a 114H. It would cost more than the reel to fill the whole spool with braid, when fishing for grouper only requires enough to get to the bottom (150-200 yards would be enough). Different strokes for different folks, but this is why I bother. If anyone sees a way I can do it better feel free to recommend it to me.
Each to their own :-\
There are so many styles of fishing that what sometimes seems ridiculous to one guy is a tried and true technique for another. I too use mono to back braid on spinning reels...the cheapest mono available...that crap from Wally's that's like $2 a spool! On the other hand, another great economy backing I've used is that cheapo Gorilla Tough braid, excellent for plastic spools. I guess no matter what your choice is, select your backing to suit spool material, and wind it on with correct pressure. 8)
Maybe a little old fashioned, but I have been using 80lb dacron to fill the reel as necessary, threading either braid or mono into the dacron and a top shot if needed. Of course the spool gets a little grease and tape, but has worked for me.....but as stated above, to each his own......Bill
What do you guys think of wet vs dry spooling of braid? I was spooling a SL30SH with 40lb Sufix in a length that should have fit no problem, ran out of room, spun it all back off and re-spooled it while running the braid through a damp cloth, got it all on there no worries.
Hmm, never heard of that. Alan would know the answer.
It shouldn't make a difference. Quite possible that you applied a little more pressure to the braid packing it tighter.
Quote from: Bryan Young on September 17, 2016, 05:22:35 AM
It shouldn't make a difference. Quite possible that you applied a little more pressure to the braid packing it tighter.
x2
Aside from reducing friction in a manual setup it should make no difference :-\
Would've thought it would make a difference. :-\
Moist braid packs tighter because air gaps are squeezed out.
The only reason I see fit for soddening braid- or running braid through a sodden cloth (for manual winding), is to minimise friction upon bare flesh. Nothing more.
Tension really is chief as far as spooling braid is concerned. ;)
Steve