I was disassembling a Microlite 265 and could not pull out the drive gear. I
assumed it was just the old grease holding it in but I could not get it to budge.
I used a 5/16" (.3125") pin punch to gently tap in through the hole. It was tight the whole way through.
After cleaning everything up and trying to reassemble it, I ran into the same problem trying to reinstall it.
The shaft outside diameter is .314 at the base and .3165 at the end. Is this out of spec or is the problem with the hole in the body?
-Steve
It may have flared out from the handle being screwed in to tight .
I just checked one and came up with.313 on that side "your picture " and .314 on the other side .
check the threads with handle on both sides before you assemble it , make sure the punch did not hurt you.
That gear should fall out when you open it .
Joe,
The crank handle threads in just fine on the right hand retrieve side but
this reel was set up for left hand retrieve. On that side
crank handle goes in part of the way and then binds.
There are two sets of threads on the crank handle.
I assume one of the sets of internal threads are compromised on the drive gear on that side.
Not sure how to fix this. Even if I do there's still the shaft outside diameter to deal with.
I guess I can purchase a new part, but if there is a way to fix both issues, I'd like to give it a go.
Thank You
-Steve
Yes left hand and right hand threads , Check inside for foreign debris stuck in the threads . I would work the handle back and forth like a tap .
After that i would chuck the handle shaft in a drill and spin with a small file or finger nail filing board / 320 sand paper . Brass sands easy and fast !
That is a bell taper you have on that shaft , work the rim first .
would it be silly to try frozen shaft & heated main?
Quote from: oldmanjoe on February 12, 2021, 12:29:12 AM
Yes left hand and right hand threads , Check inside for foreign debris stuck in the threads . I would work the handle back and forth like a tap .
After that i would chuck the handle shaft in a drill and spin with a small file or finger nail filing board / 320 sand paper . Brass sands easy and fast !
Joe is exactly right on all counts.
Chances are good that the shaft on the main gear got flared when over-tightened — and maybe a little damage when tapping it out.
The crank shaft should seat fully on either side.
And the gear should just fall out.
One thing to check first is the gear bushings on the sideplate and the frame. They are of a softer alloy — and if the gear gets screwed up — these will generally be messed up also. Tolerances are tight.
First, just install "0000" steel wool on a 1/8" drill bit — force the steel wool into the bearing bushing and run it at high speed until hot — both sides.
Then check gear fitment — it may be OK. If not, add a tiny bit more steel wool — do it again. The gear bearing bushings should be bright and shiny inside.
With this done, and the gear/crank axle also sanded down a mil or two, like Joe said — and some oil — it should be OK and smooth as glass.
The other thing that few folks do or know — is replace the bearing bushings on both sides (and even the new ones need to be shined up inside. This is a tedious process needing a press — doable — but likely unnecessary unless gouged from the punch.
There are also (2) versions of the 265 — some (most) parts are the same — some won't play well together.
Also, every time the steel wool is used — the frame and sideplate need to be rinsed again, preferably in the US cleaner with just warm water.
Best, Fred
Thank You Joe and Fred
I have limited capabilities and tools at this point. I used the grey
fiber burnishing wheel that came with my harbor freight mini grinder to
remove the "bell" at the end of the drive gear shaft. It only took a few seconds.
I've been using a 5/32 bit with 0000 steel wool. I switched to 1/8" as recommended
by Fred and ran the drill at higher speed than I have been before. I think I'm good but not great on the shaft/ bearing issue.
The crank shaft used as a tapping tool isn't working.
I can thread it all the way in but it's still super tight.
If you can work it out to be smooth as glass — as it should be — then you will have gained some experience and knowledge.
If not, just send me the entire reel as is — and I'll get it going for you.
Best, Fred
Your last picture of the crank shaft i see a yellow spot , is that a piece of brass stuck to the thread ? shoot another picture of the threads
Just a dust particle.
I saw that too and removed it with a toothpick
It was fluffy
Fred
I'm working back to back to back chemical plant outages over the next few months. My off time will be spent with family. I will send the reel to you for a full restore. Should I reassemble or just the parts?
I've cleaned and polished all the parts. It will be a great chance for you to critique my work.
Will include the extra spools I have also. God bless you.
Thank You
-Steve
Just send the parts as is —
I'll figure it out.
Best, Fred
Fred
After all this time I shipped this reel to you today along with some extra D.A.M. Spools and the 2002.
Thank You. Thank You. Thank You.
Thanks, Steve —-
We will figure out the details in a few days.
Best, Fred