Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Conventional and Bait Casting Reel Rebuild Tutorials and Questions => Penn Tutorials and Questions => Topic started by: hafnor on March 05, 2011, 06:28:41 PM

Title: GLD 20 - Penn formula gld 20 two speed, teardown
Post by: hafnor on March 05, 2011, 06:28:41 PM
Had a penn reel that was being used pretty rough for two years that I bought from a friend. I was accually amazed how water proof this reel is. there was not much intrusion inside the reel at all, But there were some nasty/dirty grease inside it, so I polished and added some new before the fishing season. Enjoy!

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01901.jpg)
Penn gld 20 two speed formula reel

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01904.jpg)
remove the torx screws (two) that holds the graphite body together as long with the lever assembly

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01905.jpg)
Remove the other two torx that connects the main gear assembly to the main body

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01907.jpg)
out goes the flat screews

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01910.jpg)
To seperate the main gear with the main body you have to press down the "full" and "free" knobs that goes through the metal lever plate, it is a little tricky but just be patient and you will get it out.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01911.jpg)
As the lever plate is removed, the last two screws that connects the main body with the gear assembly is shown, screew them out. remember to clean and relube all screews

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01909.jpg)
The spool and main body slides easily out.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01912.jpg)
on to the left side main body, check for rust and corrosion in the clicker assembly. I had a lot of old dirty grease so I seperated it and cleaned/lubed it.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01915.jpg)
flat screw driver

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01916.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01917.jpg)
carefully remove the two shafts with the springs, clean and lube.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01918.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01919.jpg)
This grease is new for me, it is medium thick with high isolating features. The grease is used with electrical components often innstalled under the ground. should be protective and good against dirt and salt.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01920.jpg)
clean out old greasy stuff with a brush

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02045.jpg)
reinstall and lube

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01931.jpg)
nasty rust around the reel clamp screews.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01933.jpg)
nasty, thank god it is just the surface

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01934.jpg)
much better

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01935.jpg)
add grease to screws and...

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01937.jpg)
reinstall.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01939.jpg)
screw out the drag preset knob anti clockwise, and the spool is free from the main gear

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01941.jpg)
the plastic that makes the click sound when tightening or loosening the preset.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01942.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01943.jpg)
unscrew the drag plate seal.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01944.jpg)
out pops the drag plate because of the spring on the spool shaft

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01945.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01946.jpg)
remove the retainer ring that attaches the gear to the drag plate

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01948.jpg)
this goes out freely with no hassle

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01949.jpg)
remove the bearing

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01951.jpg)
add grease on top of the bearing

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01953.jpg)
and make a bed before the bearing goes back in

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01955.jpg)
remove old grease

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01957.jpg)
add new

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01958.jpg)
reassemble the gear and retainer ring

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01959.jpg)
over to the disks, these were very dry

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01960.jpg)
clean out old grease and...

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01961.jpg)
add new

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01963.jpg)
remove old grease if any.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01964.jpg)
add new cals grease that I got from Alan:)

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01965.jpg)
remove excess

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01966.jpg)
reassamble the drag disk, this goes freely in with no hassle, just make sure you hit the ingravings. Be careful they will easily break

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01967.jpg)
on to the other side, remove the four screws

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01968.jpg)
remove the c clip retainer

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01969.jpg)
out goes the spool shaft, remember the two bearings inside the spool, will come back to those.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01970.jpg)
spool shaft with rings attached as (())

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01972.jpg)
remove old grease/ add new

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01973.jpg)
add grease to the spool shaft, and remove old grease inside the spool (forgot picture)

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01974.jpg)
out goes the smallest bearing, could not get the shield out so I just cleaned and relubed them fully sealed.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01976.jpg)
on the other side comes a bigger one out

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01977.jpg)

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01978.jpg)
got the shield off the big one. Well greased.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01979.jpg)
add more to fully pack it.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01980.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01981.jpg)
press the shield on again

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01982.jpg)
fill the ingraving inside the spool with a bed of grease for the bearing to sit on.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01985.jpg)
put the bearing back inside, grease the spool to with a light coat

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01986.jpg)
do the same on the other bearing

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01988.jpg)
reassemble

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01989.jpg)
put the c clip back on inside the ingraving close to the spool

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01990.jpg)
add a pearl on every screw

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01992.jpg)
screw all four screws firmly and add grease

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01993.jpg)
looks saltproof

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01997.jpg)
on to the other side. put the bearing back inside and the spring, then comes the...

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01998.jpg)
metal drag plate.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC01999.jpg)
press it down towards the spool and screw the plastic cover firmly, and the spool is done!

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02000.jpg)
on to the gear shifter button, remove screws and clean/lube

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02001.jpg)
the shifter pops out thanks to the spring inside the shaft.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02002.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02003.jpg)
remove the handle nut. Use the handle and hold the the assembly with something to unscrew it.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02005.jpg)
out goes the two speed shifter

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02006.jpg)
remove the handle arm

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02007.jpg)
remove the metal cover

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02009.jpg)
remove the screws that holds the lever.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02010.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02011.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02012.jpg)
two pieces total

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02014.jpg)
remove spring

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02015.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02016.jpg)
unscrew the screw that attaches the main gear to the spool

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02018.jpg)
out comes the screw

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02019.jpg)
take out the spring that surrounds the screw

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02013.jpg)
remove the three screws that holds the second gear

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02022.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02023.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02024.jpg)
grease everything good and...

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02027.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02028.jpg)
reassemble

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02029.jpg)
take the screw and put it inside the spring

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02030.jpg)
screw back on tight

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02031.jpg)
add the spring on top of the main gear screw

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02032.jpg)
add some grease

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02034.jpg)
add the lever

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02035.jpg)
and the cover on top of the lever

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02036.jpg)
screw greased and clean screws back on. Be carefull here, the plastic cover against the metal screws is a tough combination

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02037.jpg)
on with the metal cover with grease inside

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02038.jpg)
place the handle back on

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02039.jpg)
screw the button shifter back on, you have to work it a little to get it to sit perfectly alligned.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02040.jpg)
back on with the shifter buttom screws, and yes they are lubed and cleaned.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02041.jpg)
allign the spool back on to the main gear plate

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02042.jpg)
add the preset clicker assembly. Press it firmly down so the screw to the preset knob pops out.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02043.jpg)
on with the preset know

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02046.jpg)
attach the right frame and spool to the main body.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02047.jpg)
allign the bodies to make it fit, it should make a sound when it pops into place. Remember the screws that goes before the lever drag plate.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02048.jpg)
now add the lever drag plate by again pressing in full and free button. It may takes some time to get it right.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02049.jpg)
add the main body screws (greased) that also holds the lever drag plate in place.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02050.jpg)
back on with the torx for the frame (greased)

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02052.jpg)
last screws assembled under the gear room.

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC02053.jpg)
Healthy reel!

Notes: easy reel to maintain. be carefull when taking out some screws as they may have springs attached to it. Carefull when screwing back the screws into the graphite body, easy does it!

Hope this helps, best regards from Norway.

Thor





























Title: Re: Penn formula gld 20 two speed, teardown
Post by: Bryan Young on March 05, 2011, 08:07:23 PM
Thanks for sharing Thor.  Nice work. 

Electric grease?  Let us know how it does in the long run, will ya?
Title: Re: Penn formula gld 20 two speed, teardown
Post by: hafnor on March 05, 2011, 08:21:11 PM
yepp! All I know that it is made for electrical components in dirty occasions... Will report if it breaks! Seems nice in texture and the reel was smooth after greasing it up
Title: Re: Penn formula gld 20 two speed, teardown
Post by: Irish Jigger on April 24, 2012, 07:26:29 PM
Just used this Tutorial when sercvicing two Penn Formula 10KG 2 speed reels. It was a great help to me as this was the first time I had seen these reels.
Thank's Hafnor.  ;D ;D
Title: Re: GLD 20 - Penn formula gld 20 two speed, teardown
Post by: handi2 on November 23, 2016, 12:32:15 AM
Ive seen my electrician use that on the wired sprinkler controls.

It looks just Super Lube. Super Lube grease has the same properties.
Title: Re: GLD 20 - Penn formula gld 20 two speed, teardown
Post by: SoCalAngler on November 23, 2016, 06:40:45 AM
I was a telecom tech for 20 years and know a little about the so called lube used here. This stuff was not really meant as lube at all though it may work as one. In the telecom world there mainly two types of cables, I.W. (inside wire) and O.W. (outside wire). The two main types of O.W. are aerial cable which is the stuff you see running from telephone pole to pole and burial cable. Burial cable is used mainly for under ground cable installations from manhole to manhole or in multi floor buildings that have telephone distribution frames on each floor. The burial cables are filled with this jell which we techs called icky pick, sorry don't know the true name of the stuff or what it is made out of. Burial cables come with the jell installed inside of the cable so water can never intrude deep into it, say if a manhole or conduit gets filled with water or in multi floor applications if a distribution frame/phone closet gets flooded. They do sell the jell alone in varying sizes to be placed in terminations that can get wet or that can be used for what handi said.

I have never known anyone to use it as a lube so I have know idea how it would work but the one thing I can tell you about this stuff, cleaning it off 400 pair cable so you can make terminations is a real pain...lol