The main fault of the GTO series is the tendency of the stand screws (part 32C-220)to loosen up and cause major damage to the frame assembly and consequently to the gear train and spool. The stand screws are replaceable with M3x10mm stainless steel screws and M3 stainless steel acorn nuts. I chose to cut 4 post screws (part 32B-220) down to 10mm.
1. The non-handle side and outer ring are removed from the frame and the non-handle stand screws are replaced with the longer ones
2. The geartrain and handle side assembly are removed from the frame and the handle side screws are replaced with the longer screws (I replaced the original handle side screws with larger headed ones)
All the screws are fitted into place and the stainless steel M3 acorn nuts are mounted and tightened (I used an old hemostat for the tightening)
Very good Tile. I'd still be a little cautioned with the line, due to overruns, getting caught (looped) on the acorn nuts, but looks to be a great resolution to the problem with the reel seat plate securement.
The best thing to remedy the problem is to have a machine shop cut an aluminium half frame to replace the reel seat and the rear frame post (a frame akin to the Tiburon P20 used for the Jigmaster 500L)
what you have looks much better, but if the line does get caught around the acorn nuts, you may have to change them out to hex nuts and cut the screws shorter. i'll also bet a 5-40 screw would work better than the fine thread metrics.
The beauty of this upgrade is the fact that no modifications are required to be done on the frame assembly parts and as you stated the stand screws can be shorter and regular stainless hex nuts can be used. My reel is used mainly for short distance casting and planted fishing for carp and wels catfish (in a similar manner to land based shark fishing).
Have you tried fitting the screws (round head) in the opposite direction with the nut inside the frame ?
The frame inner plastic rings don't allow me to put a nut on the inside and after many hours of thinking I came up with this solution.
i think this is very good work!
Thanks :) . The reel frame feels much more solid after the upgrade and I am confident that the reel is up to the job for fighting a 2 m wels catfish (if I am lucky to catch one)
Thank's Tile,good job,well done.
Good thinking Tile, maybe these might help what you're trying to do :-\ :
http://www.mcmaster.com/#sex-bolts
They come in ss and different sizes.
Sal
I like the naming of the bolts provided in your link ;D .
The stand screws upgrade should be included as part of the pre-fishing service for any new 230 GTO.
After having several incidents where the line snagged the acorn nuts I decided to have a quick revisit to my 220GTO. I replaced the stand screws with longer ones that I had to customize a bit and the acorn nuts with regular ones and 2 sections of stainless steel tubing. This will prevent the line from snagging again and maintain the structural integrity of the frame assembly.
Cool idea, i like it!
The stainless steel tubes have an inner diameter of 2mm and I had to enlarge it to 3mm at each end for about 7mm. The initial screws I had to replace them to give me the added security that the tubes won't come out at all ( the ends of the screws go in 3mm at each end of the tubes)
I like this idea better. WOndering if you could use the tubing as a "nut" and bypass the threads in the stand to get a tighter fit with the tubing. Bill
By using thicker walled tubing and having the pieces threaded at each end and using more substantial screws one can bypass the threads on the stand and this will require drilling them out.
My initial solution and the revisit was designed to be easily done with regular tools and not cause permanent alterations to the reel.
I had to modify my initial post as Photobucket is >:(