Picked up a scrap-box off of craigslist last weekend for $30:
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u135/newfuturevintage/20150202_110408.jpg)
It was advertised as "old reels, one big, one small, + box of non-working stuff". Only the 300 (pre '3-0-0' stamp), and the 408 were pictured.
I got it mainly for the 408, less for the 300 (both well used, but in great mechanical shape).
I was pleased to see the 301 (after a gentle bail-wire bend to square it with the rotor head) was in good shape, as was the 320 (well, other than the fact it was actually designed, built, and sold). If I can find a handle for the Daiwa 1300c at a reasonable price, I'll definitely press it into service.
So the 304:
It needs a bail screw #2 (81-013, the non-spring side) as I donated its screw to the 301.
I also suspect it needs an oscillation slide (81-131). The spool has a fair amount of play in it, I think due to the original slide wobbling against the axle from wear. Would love to know if this sounds about right, and if anyone here has these parts to sell.
Thanks!
Ron
I'll check what I have, Ron --
Should have everything you need as NOS.
Lots of old new Mitchell parts.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on February 03, 2015, 02:41:57 AM
I'll check what I have, Ron --
Should have everything you need as NOS.
Lots of old new Mitchell parts.
Best,
Fred
Awesome, thanks, Fred!
I also received the parts from you yesterday for the 302, and have an envelope with some cash headed back your way leaving today!
Much appreciated,
Ron
Hi Ron --
If this is what you need, I'll drop it in the mail today.
Please confirm.
Also, on the Daiwa Handle -- likely have a few that will fit -- but every 1300C I have pulled out of boxes, has no handle, so far.
So you might be able to order one from one of the online stores, or find another great box like the last one -- full of good reels -- or if you really get stuck, let me know -- and I will dig deeper. I do have a few factory parts interchangeability reference manuals from Daiwa.
I did not have the Oscillation Slide in my NOS Mitchell parts -- so I pulled one out of a new, crisp 304S -- which I will replace from other stock, later today.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/EF65A593-4339-44FC-A0FD-ABE3C612905C_zpsl7bmaqpd.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/EF65A593-4339-44FC-A0FD-ABE3C612905C_zpsl7bmaqpd.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/54EB0F4E-8C06-4FD5-A0F6-FCC8A44240EA_zps8m8ubp70.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/54EB0F4E-8C06-4FD5-A0F6-FCC8A44240EA_zps8m8ubp70.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/322869A6-BF55-4168-982D-17656D37E42D_zpsw35i28bg.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/322869A6-BF55-4168-982D-17656D37E42D_zpsw35i28bg.jpg.html)
Yes!
Those are the parts, thanks!
If the cover-screws aren't at all dear to you, would you be OK with including one? One of the three on mine is chewed up, not so bad as to be inoperable, but I suspect it's not going to last much longer. Totally not a problem if you can't.
I'll keep an eye out for the Daiwa handle. Found a few on ebay, but they're going for more than the reel's worth, so I can wait. I do have the big brother to this reel in the 7000c that I use for pier and surfcast snare crabbing, and it's a really fun workhorse.
Thanks, Fred!
Ron
Ok, that is good, Ron --
I'll include a cover screw.
Too late for PO today -- likely tomorrow now.
I have hundreds of Spinning reel handles that I have stripped off of old spinners -- if you wish, I could try and match one up with a 1300C that I have.
Problem with ebay is -- pay $5-$10 for a handle, $5 shipping -- then you are not sure of it will work or not.
Best,
Fred
Thinking of making this the general "fun with mitchell spinning reels" thread :)
Next up:
Mitchell 301 in the pic upstairs:
Formerly thought it 100%, but it turns out that the plastic gear on the axle that mates with the spool bottom is loose. Haven't seen that before, but hey, I'm new at this! So it's behaving like the drag is set to about 2 or 4 lbs of tension at all times. It can be turned by hand. Seems that according to the schematic/ parts list this is supposed to be permanently affixed to the axle (shown as a single part #).
Given I don't fish lefty, and I've got reels for my wife who does, it's not a high priority fix, but I wanted to find out if anybody's had any luck locking these back into position. Maybe by sneaking CA glue or epoxy underneath the gear?
Thanks,
Ron
Hi Ron --
If the plastic gear is slipping on the spool post -- it's toast.
No way to reliably glue or fasten -- plus if slipping, other areas are likely worn out also.
I'll just send out a new spool post with your other parts.
Couldn't get by the PO yet, since they are about 9 miles down the hill, and close up at 4:00 every week day.
So they will all go out in the same package tomorrow.
Also included will be the additional side plate screw for the 304.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/8187899A-B7B9-40BF-AAFA-91D9FACF9C5B_zpsig6pjgt4.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/8187899A-B7B9-40BF-AAFA-91D9FACF9C5B_zpsig6pjgt4.jpg.html)
Quote from: foakes on February 09, 2015, 09:31:16 PM
If the plastic gear is slipping on the spool post -- it's toast.
I had a feeling that'd be the case. Thanks for saving me on the effort!
Quote from: foakes on February 09, 2015, 09:31:16 PM
I'll just send out a new spool post with your other parts.
Couldn't get by the PO yet, since they are about 9 miles down the hill, and close up at 4:00 every week day.
So they will all go out in the same package tomorrow.
Also included will be the additional side plate screw for the 304.
Thanks, Fred! I really appreciate this!
Please feel free to drop an invoice in the envelope, you've gone above and beyond yet again!
Ron
Quote from: newfuturevintage on February 09, 2015, 08:45:04 PM
Thinking of making this the general "Fun with Mitchell spinning reels" thread. :)
Great idea! Count me in. :D
~
A~
Quote from: Aiala on February 10, 2015, 01:42:04 AM
Quote from: newfuturevintage on February 09, 2015, 08:45:04 PM
Thinking of making this the general "Fun with Mitchell spinning reels" thread. :)
Great idea! Count me in. :D
~A~
Done!
Okay, here's a little issue that's been driving me bats: After disassembling, cleaning, and reassembling my classic 402, to my considerable consternation I found I had this minuscule "leftover":
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah207/ladyaialaAiala/402MysteryPart_zps40167baa.jpg)
I've been over my 402 schematic with a magnifying glass until I'm blue in the face, but for the life of me I cannot locate this tiny piece. And the strange thing is, my reel operates flawlessly without it, which leads me to believe that it's non-essential... but if that's so, WHY does it even exist in the first place??
The only clue I have –and it isn't much of one– is that I originally found the piece sitting in grease along the axle (part #81357).
Needless to say, any help/guidance/advice would be extremely welcome. :-\
~A~
Hmmmmm, Aiala --
I don't believe that goes anywhere on your 402.
Maybe it fell off of your magnifying glass!
Don't sweat it -- but someday you will find where it goes -- and it likely will be important -- but not on your 402.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on February 11, 2015, 12:12:04 AM
Hmmmmm, Aiala -- I don't believe that goes anywhere on your 402.
Well, Fred, I'm not going to worry about it. I KNOW the darn thing was in there, and it
didn't fall off my glasses or whatever. Maybe the previous owner(s) left it in there by mistake, like a surgeon forgetting a hemostat in a patient's abdomen...?
I guess it'll just be one of those enduring mysteries we all encounter sometimes. The important thing is that the reel works like a charm... I cannot wait to take her fishing! ;)
~
A~
Quote from: Aiala on February 11, 2015, 01:47:37 AM
Well, Fred, I'm not going to worry about it. I KNOW the darn thing was in there, and it didn't fall off my glasses or whatever. Maybe the previous owner(s) left it in there by mistake, like a surgeon forgetting a hemostat in a patient's abdomen...?
I guess it'll just be one of those enduring mysteries we all encounter sometimes. The important thing is that the reel works like a charm... I cannot wait to take her fishing! ;)
~A~
When I cleaned and spruced up my 302 last weekend, I found that same (or very similar) brass clip in my grease rag. Doesn't show up in the 302 schematic, or at least not cleanly enough to be recognized in any of the scanned schematics I found online.
It had some striations parallel to the long dimension of the clip, so I figured it must have come from a moving part. The only place it fit was clipped around one side of oscillation guide 81414. It seems to be a thin shim to get rid of the tiny amount of play in the guide.
I could be wrong, but I'd bet this is what you've got there.
The Gyro Effect: Uneven line spooling on the Mitchell 300:
example:
the spool on the left is nice and uniform, and from the 301 above. The spool on the right is decidedly top-heavy, and from a 300. Reminds me of the vertical rotisseries used in middle-eastern restaurants, hence, The Gyro Effect:
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u135/newfuturevintage/20150211_100620.jpg)
How does one go about getting the reel that spooled the right spool to do so evenly?
Both spools are the same type of line spooled in the same manner (using the reel, obviously, not a spooling machine).
Thanks!
Ron
Hi Ron,
If you take the spool assembly apart, between the spool and the spool base there is a washer there. the one on the right needs a washer that is a little thicker to move the spool upwards a tad. It's hard to know how much though. I haven't figured out a calculation that could be used for this...more trial and error.
Quote from: Bryan Young on February 11, 2015, 08:00:21 PM
Hi Ron,
I haven't figured out a calculation that could be used for this...more trial and error.
How come, I thought you were an engineer? ;D Dominick
I am an engineer, but I get paid to break things to validate that safety is designed into the product.
Quote from: Bryan Young on February 11, 2015, 09:52:01 PM
I am an engineer, but I get paid to break things to validate that safety is designed into the product.
Getting paid to break things is my platonic ideal of employment. Why, I do it for free now!
Is this washer a drag washer, or just a simple spacer?
IE: do I need to be using something either Mitchell and/or appropriate for a drag assembly here, or is something simply non-corroding fine if it fits?
And, are we talking part #130 in the lower left of this diagram?
http://www.reeldr.com/home/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/MITCHELL-300-3011969.pdf
Thanks!
Ron
The spool lip on the left is appro. 1/8" thicker, the line travels up and down 1/8" less than the spool on the right. If you add thicker thrust washer when using the spool on the right it should even out.
Quote from: newfuturevintage on February 11, 2015, 10:10:30 PM
Quote from: Bryan Young on February 11, 2015, 09:52:01 PM
I am an engineer, but I get paid to break things to validate that safety is designed into the product.
Getting paid to break things is my platonic ideal of employment. Why, I do it for free now!
Is this washer a drag washer, or just a simple spacer?
IE: do I need to be using something either Mitchell and/or appropriate for a drag assembly here, or is something simply non-corroding fine if it fits?
And, are we talking part #130 in the lower left of this diagram?
http://www.reeldr.com/home/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/MITCHELL-300-3011969.pdf
Thanks!
Ron
Yes Ron, That's it. I use greased carbon fiber washers at that point but with the drag setting of that reel, Teflon would be fine. Maybe Delrin also.
I don't have any spools in stock anymore so I cannot definitively tell you what thickness are in the spools. I gave them away to a kid that was using his grandpa's reels, and though he could use them.
Ron when you get it so that the spool loads evenly measure the width of the washers and send the measurement to the engineer. :D :D Dominick
Quote from: Dominick on February 11, 2015, 10:36:30 PM
Ron when you get it so that the spool loads evenly measure the width of the washers and send the measurement to the engineer. :D :D Dominick
Man, you're gonna make me finally buy a micrometer, aren't you?
Quote from: Bryan Young on February 11, 2015, 10:24:23 PM
Yes Ron, That's it. I use greased carbon fiber washers at that point but with the drag setting of that reel, Teflon would be fine. Maybe Delrin also.
I don't have any spools in stock anymore so I cannot definitively tell you what thickness are in the spools. I gave them away to a kid that was using his grandpa's reels, and though he could use them.
Cool, thanks!
I'm actually doing pretty much the same thing that the kid you gave those washers is doing: revamping my Grandparents' old mitchells and fishing 'em!
newventure, buy a caliper instead of a micrometer. Inexpensive ones can be purchased at Harbor Freight. RUDY
Quote from: newfuturevintage on February 11, 2015, 05:41:19 PM
When I cleaned and spruced up my 302 last weekend, I found that same (or very similar) brass clip in my grease rag. Doesn't show up in the 302 schematic, or at least not cleanly enough to be recognized in any of the scanned schematics I found online. It had some striations parallel to the long dimension of the clip, so I figured it must have come from a moving part. The only place it fit was clipped around one side of oscillation guide 81414. It seems to be a thin shim to get rid of the tiny amount of play in the guide. I could be wrong, but I'd bet this is what you've got there.
Sounds right... I'll bet that's it. Good job! :)
Not that I'm going to open up my reel, though... it's fine the way it is. Question: Did
you put the little clip back in your oscillation guide? ???
~
A~
If that is what it is -- you should consider putting it back in your reel, Aiala.
Grease it up good.
It appears to be a stronger metal than the oscillation guide -- and would tighten up any slop, as well as allow more longevity -- particularly under heavy ocean conditions.
Good spotting, NF Vintage!
Best,
Fred
Quote from: Aiala on February 12, 2015, 01:39:45 AM
Sounds right... I'll bet that's it. Good job! :)
Not that I'm going to open up my reel, though... it's fine the way it is. Question: Did you put the little clip back in your oscillation guide? ???
I did, actually. But I got lucky and hadn't buttoned up the reel when I found the part. I did have to straighten out mine a little as I'd bent its corners a little, but the flat with the striations was fine.
Like yours, the reel worked fine without the clip, but had a titch of lateral play in the spool that increased as the spool reached the height of oscillation. The clip reduced that play nicely!
Revisiting this thread, and back to the original photo of the 6 reels.
The off-topic daiwa: I found an arm on ebay that I best-offered down to around $5 or $6 shipped, and it completely did the trick. Did a little surf casting for perch on it a few weeks back; it's a fun reel for that. Not sure that it was really intended for salt, but it's easy enough to clean up/ not so precious that I'll not use it in the surf when going for small fish. Woot, a win!
The 300: man, this thing is smooth. Just a little oil, and it's the smoothest of the 4 I've got. The body's fairly ugly, so it'll become a kayak trolling reel: ie: if it goes overboard and my rod-float fails, that's fine, another win!
The 301: have yet to replace the spool post, but have it waiting in the wings. Will be simple enough to do when the time presents itself.
The 304: with the oscillation slide Fred sent (thanks, Fred!), it's working like a champ. Fished with it fairly extensively last weekend pitching kastmasters at Lake Collins. Caught nothing with it, but it's fun to work with a reel this dead-simple.
The 408: the only one left in the lot that needs love: the bail-stop is weak. When the bail's open for casting, any moderate cast has enough force to flip the bail closed.
It seems three parts could cause this, either in part or in whole:
the spring (81 294) pushing the bail stop into the bail's lock-slot could be weak
the bail stop (81 296) could be rounded,
as could the lock-slot on the bail (near the bail spring) itself.
Any thoughts on this?
(http://www.mitchellparts.com/schematics/m408_409.JPG)
Thanks,
Ron
Hi Ron --
Make sure the trip lever is working free -- no burrs, grease, scoring, etc.
Put a slight backwards bend in the trip lever spring so it exerts a little more force.
Now, the likely culprit, since these other things have been eliminated and are working as well as possible --
The slot in the bail wire assembly that catches the trip lever -- when cocked for casting -- could be slightly rounded, instead of a squared off rabbet notch.
This can be carefully and slowly filed until the bail is holding in a casting position --
However, before doing this step -- take a flat pair of needle nose pliers -- and gently adjust (bend) the trip lever upwards slightly. Over a period of years, the snap back of the bail will tend to bend the protruding part of the trip lever downwards -- so it will not work properly.
If everything is already free moving and clean, and oiled -- just the adjustment with the pliers of the trip lever should do the trick.
Let us know if this trick works -- otherwise show us some close up pics.
Good luck,
Fred
Thanks, Fred, I'll give those suggestions a whirl and report back!
Ron
I think I've got the 408 up and running!
Took your suggestions, Fred, and started with bending the spring. Seems someone already had tried this, and it was pretty out-of shape. I attempted to get it more in the pocket, and more or less was successful. This seemed to help a little, but not all the way, so I bent the trip lever a little, and this got it nearly all the way there. When I went to reassemble the trip assembly and snapped off the pivot screw in the rotor head.
Oops.
It broke flush to the rotor, so I had to drill a little to score the remaining nub then work it out slowly with a midget screwdriver. So at this point I needed a new screw, and could likely use a new spring. Found a $7 set of screw/ spring/ trip lever on the bay. Bought one with a separate screw/washer instead of the older integrated style just in case.
Here's the assembly installed. I used the original trip lever as it worked a little better than the one I bought.
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u135/newfuturevintage/Mobile%20Uploads/20150427_131254.jpg)
The replacement trip lever was an unjointed one that fit, but was a bit more rounded, and didn't actually work:
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u135/newfuturevintage/Mobile%20Uploads/20150427_131443.jpg)
and the lever doin' its job:
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u135/newfuturevintage/Mobile%20Uploads/20150427_131431.jpg)
Now to get this a light rod and try it out!
Good work, Ron -- the Mitchell 408 is a really nice reel.
High speed 5:1, good lines, bearing, dark blue -- not black like the 308, 2 step oscillation for flat line layering on the spool.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on April 27, 2015, 09:10:09 PM
Good work, Ron -- the Mitchell 408 is a really nice reel.
High speed 5:1, good lines, bearing, dark blue -- not black like the 308, 2 step oscillation for flat line layering on the spool.
Best,
Fred
Got a chance to take this to a local pond and do a little casting with a kastmaster out of my inflatable kayak (read: lay down in what's essentially a 'water hammock' and lazily cast about while drifting and bobbing up and down). What a nice reel. Super smooth, lot of fun to use. Gonna put these on the radar now. Well, these and another 410 :)
Thanks again for the help!
Ron