All this talk of rods breaking as a result of stresses not related to actually landing fish (car doors, etc) has me hesitant as I'm seeing some pretty good deals on used rods. So that leads to the question for the fine folks here: if you're looking at a used rod, what would you look for in terms of signs of mistreatment, or conversely signs of proper treatment/storage? Are there tests one would want to perform?
if you can see it in-person, go for it, take a 10lb weight hang it off the end and go at it ;-)
many older 2-pc rods, tip section is significantly longer than butt
watch out for ones "strategically shortened" to equal-length sections
also, specify: ready-to-fish vs. good rebuild (or, maybe, split into 2 topics)
Look at the guides for rust or cracks in the finish, Almost all used rods will have a few small cracks at the guide feet just avoid the ones where you can see damage to the thread and corrosion. Looks for deep scratches or gacks in the glass. Put a good bend in it
I like Swami805's advice. Know that a knock to a blank, especially graphite, can cause damage that is hard to see. Putting a good bend to it (with caution; you're not trying to double the rod over or anything drastic like that) will help. Also, look at the handle; chunks of cork or foam missing, scrapes and general ratty look indicate hard service or someone who didn't care about their equipment.
Frank
Be careful testing a used rod by putting a bend in it. Most likely if you broke it, you bought it!
Quote from: Gobi King on October 29, 2020, 02:01:23 PM
if you can see it in-person, go for it, take a 10lb weight hang it off the end and go at it ;-)
why a 10lb weight -- why not, a 1/2lb reel w/ drag set to 10 lbs.? ;D
Quote from: philaroman on October 29, 2020, 02:14:24 PM
also, specify: ready-to-fish vs. good rebuild (or, maybe, split into 2 topics)
Valid point. Though I was operating under the assumption that the main subject for eval is the blank itself. And equal importance would be placed on that whether buying to use today or buying to rebuild. A guide breaking isnt the end of the world, and can be replaced, but a busted blank is a busted rod. Right?
I seldom buy a used blank, mainly because I only use high modulus graphite and there is no telling how it was treated. On the couple I have purchased I ran my fingers lightly up & down the blank to see if there were any nicks or chips. Then I worked a piece of Kleenex or toilet paper (a Q-Tip would work better but I never have one on me then) ;) around the inside of the rings looking for rough spots, chips or grooves. If everything checked out OK I bought them, but I'd never pay over $25 for a used rod, though. Glass & composites can probably take more abuse but since I'm a freshwater guy I quit using those 35 years ago.
Quote from: Gobi King on October 29, 2020, 02:01:23 PM
if you can see it in-person, go for it, take a 10lb weight hang it off the end and go at it ;-)
hey buddy, dont steal my technique !! >:( >:( ;D ;D
Quote from: JasonGotaPenn on October 29, 2020, 11:50:35 AM
All this talk of rods breaking as a result of stresses not related to actually landing fish (car doors, etc)
LOL looks like you are referring to my posts, if you see a very good deal on an old saltwater rod, go for it.
as you said, changuing broken guides is easy peacy and many old glass blanks M, MH o H rods have still long life, but if you want to buy them to use them as is, then there are lots of little details to check, as many of the previous post already pointed out, look for crancks on the blank, look at the foot of the guides for cracked epoxy or guides with problems on the thread, pass your finger inside the guides looking for cracked ceramic or corroded steel, dont bend the rod on the fleamarket or store because if you broke it you pay it.
70% of my fishing rod jobs are restoring old rods found in garages sales or fleamarkets, so I have some experiences on this topic, as you might already read it, my friends normally ask me how to be "sure" that the rod will survive a fish fight after its been restored, the correct answer I always give is "The is not a way to assure an old rod wont break on a fish after the 1st, 2d or 3rd trip", they want to put $80-120 dlls into an old rod that was bought for $25, sounds like a "bad businnes" since economic glass rod could be found brand new for $50-$100 dlls on the sportfishing stores, but normally they hace cheap guides, cheap quality EVA grips, etc, so they want me to use specific thread colors, better quality guides, his name, some stickers and make a "custom rod" from them.
Let me tell you that some friends that run charters always look for those used rods for cheap and have me restoring them with the same colors for all their fleet, so, its a cheaper way to have all their loaner rods with the same colors and stickers of the charter business than buying new rods and send them for a customizing job.
so, I perform what I call " Carnage test" and its to lift some weight with the rod, not the best way to test them but so far it have worked pretty good, not couting my mistake (still not 100% convinced ) when using a brand new graphite "freshawater swimbait" blank that supposed it was a composite blank and broke with 8# weight.
normally old glass rods have thicker walls and still have plenty of life, I really will hesitate to buy a used a graphite light freshwater rod or an saltwater graphite inshore rod even if its really cheap, a light missleading on those will make them break on a fish later.
I have just one old rod that I restored from at least 90 rods on my count (still a pretty low record) that broke trying to set the lead weight free on a snagg, he pulled the rod few times and broke it, but thats it, no actually fighting a fish, the rest of the 89 rods are still fishing with no problem.
Good write up Alex, a lot of info here....Bill
I got started as a pier rat in Lake Worth Fl back in the late '80s early '90s, I only mention because I see you're in Tampa. Back then I bought any old yellow Hurricane rod or Star Rod I could find to rebuild. I preferred Hurricane because they were made in Miami Fl and Star because I believe they were just Gator Glass blanks. They are tuff as nails and I still fish them today. I googled a couple pics to show you what they look like because I'm sure Tampa has some.
(https://i.imgur.com/VDnZjlL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/n7PhHIC.jpg)Knot my feet
(https://i.imgur.com/irRoRgA.jpg)
You're somewhat near Mudhole.com in Oviedo, they sell CRB Gator Glass blanks which are a common blanks used in the industry. I'm still kicking myself for not making the couple hour drive to buy some of their 10' shark blanks.
Consider me intrigued. Ive driven further for less. I've never built my own rod, but a month and a half ago i had never rebuilt a reel and just look at me now. This site changes you apparently. Now I need to start looking at how to choose a blank and I'm sure that thread already exists.
I've got a modern star rod (stellar lite fast taper spinning rod) and I love it. One thing I've noticed about used star rods is everyone still thinks they're worth $100-200 used. And maybe they are, but I'm not sure I like those odds.
Jason - Wiser minds will chime in (what makes this site great). My first disclaimer - I have never built a rod. I have replaced guides on some of my favorites, and am comfortable doing that. But given other areas in my life (like running a Homebrew Supply for many years) I will offer the following: Building a rod, or even a great rod, is more than just choosing a blank. There are so many things that go into it (guide selection, guide spacing, and...the actual skill in building the thing). If you are serious about jumping down another rabbit hole into rod building (which I think is Great!) maybe consider just buying a ready made "kit" from any one of the rod building suppliers out there. And I am sure there are many folks here that can give you better counsel than I. Will you make a world class rod? Maybe so. Will you have a good chance at an OK rod? Most definitely - the folks that put these kits together really want the people to buy them to succeed. They want you to have success and continue in the hobby as a customer. Much like that first homemade beer, that first time it is nice to just focus on things like TECHNIQUE and acquiring new skills, as opposed to things like recipe development (did I add too many hops? Did I select the best guides for my blank?) and have a reasonable chance at success. And nobody on this site is going to tell you that it has to be $$$$$ to be good. But if you make it yourself it will definitely be special, regardless if it has a $300 set of Zirconium Meteorite material guides on it or something far more pedestrian. Good luck! - john
Jason, if you want to get started on building a rod from scratch, get a hand wrapper from The Fishing Hobby. Kevin, who builds the wrapping jig is a member of this site. Then buy a blank and components from Mudhole or one of the other rod building supply sites. Also there are a couple of videos by John Vadney our rod building guru under rods from the home page here. Easier to find Kevin on YouTube. He has a video on how to use his wrapping jig. It is an inexpensive way to see if you like doing it. I bought one and have been having fun using it. Dominick
I have gotten 3 used vintage faberglass saltwater rods and 1 antique bamboo,,,,, :-\ 2 at bait&tackle stores 2on pbay and I tested them real good,,,, :o no problems and if they where going to break I would of laugh about it,,,,, :D because I really don't have that much money in them,,,, :) but when a high dollar or custom rod breaks,,,,,, ??? It's not funny,,, :-[ in the pictures a $75dollar rod with oxidized bigfoot rollers still works great,,,,,,,,,,, ;D
Check the reel seat for splits and cracks in both "foot holders" as well as the tightening wheel nut especially if it's plastic like the new Chinese wonders. Have found split metal nuts too. Plastic threads, and sometimes metal, on the seat may be stripped, move the nut around to take a look.
good point: got a beautiful home-made w/ walnut(?) trigger seat
when I tightened the nut to put the reel on, a hitherto unknown crack appeared
good thing I only paid $20 -- still worth it
I've repaired some of the nuts and split reel seats by tightly wrapping over the outside with light twine, not unlike a wrap for a guide then sealing with poly, clear nail polish or epoxy. The photo is a repair of a split "cone" under a spinning reel handle. Starting with a clove hitch and continuing adding hitches until the length
of the crack is drawn together and covered has also worked for me.