A while back a traded for a Kencor Rod, but found the reel seats were split. Not wanting to cut off the Kencor Blue foam grips, had a friend of mine (who just happened to get a new lathe and was looking for a project) make some reel seat hood clamps. So I drew a set of plans for reel seat hoods that would clamp onto the existing reel seat barrel after I cut off the split hoods and a week later he delivered.
(http://i.imgur.com/xDreGSU.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/vUeCx0h.jpg)
How many of your rods suffer from this?
(http://i.imgur.com/RnwgtVa.jpg)
My dimensions for this hood are:
ID= 1"
OD= 1 7/16"
OAL= 15/16"
(http://i.imgur.com/7HLLJZa.jpg)
I split the hood in half with a rotary tool, knowing I would loose some ID and counting on it to provide clamping pressure.
(http://i.imgur.com/wLQKMtu.jpg)
Drilled and counter sunk the screw holes (Next time I will probably use 2 each side) tapped one side with a #6 NC 32
tap, dug out some corresponding machine screws. I had to turn the screw head down to fit the milled screw hole using a drill press and file.
(http://i.imgur.com/chALODY.jpg)
Using a reel frame, scribed the profile of the foot and using the rotary tool carved out the material for the seat to fit in. Leaving it a bit shallow for the new hood to clamp against.
(http://i.imgur.com/THUBqye.jpg?1)
Here's is what I ended up with...
(http://i.imgur.com/A6sYQxC.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/5ldNfJk.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/U01dI8j.jpg)
Found it to be rock solid. But lessons learned, I started off trying to use a blind hole for the threads but it didnt work out so I drilled all the way through. Next time I will have the screw head on top and the open hole on the bottom.
Good thing I had him make me three hoods.
(http://i.imgur.com/kv2wXRn.jpg)
I realize without a lathe this would be impossible and having a machine shop do it would be expensive, but hey my friend needed a project ;)....Bill
Great idea Bill, and nice work following it through. Carving out the recessed area for the reel foot would have taken a fair bit of time.
Mike
Nice,,,,I think I got one that needs that,,,,, ;D
Absolutely ingenious.
Frank
Hey Bill, outstanding job. Dominick
Excellent! Tough and good lookin(like you Bill?). Seems like there could bea custom part market for somethin like this if it could be done in various sizes.
Gfish
That's much nicer than the original Bill. Reminds me of a high-end Varmac.
-steve
Bill that's fantastic work. I bet I have a few magnaflex right now needing that bit. Well done.
Quote from: oc1 on August 27, 2017, 07:21:35 AM
That's much nicer than the original Bill. -steve
Steve the Original Bill was working out of a 30' trailer and had limited tools, basically a dremel and small bench grinder....the Improved Bill :D has a few more and a garage to work in. Good to be home ;D ;D
Thank you for the kind words...Gonna have to get a mini lathe have a couple more rods that needs this treatment ;) Bill
"original Bill",.........LOL.....thats funny!
Seriously tho, great idea!
Brett
Bill, glad you got to get back to the family. I'll ring you next time I'm out by there.
Quote from: TARFU on August 27, 2017, 12:41:32 AM
But lessons learned, I started off trying to use a blind hole for the threads but it didnt work out so I drilled all the way through. Next time I will have the screw head on top and the open hole on the bottom.
You could probably make this work if you went up one screw size....
Bill - good save :)
Great work, .. Lou
Great repair.
Friend of mine once had a break on a reel seat and made a temporary fix by using a stainless steel hose clamp around the foot of the reel. It worked so well he never made a permanent repair. Just screwed it open or closed to replace a reel when needed. ;D
I love that fix. Super graceful way to approach the problem.
I'd like a small metal lathe too Bill. Have you looked into them yet? Any suggestions?
-steve
That is a good repair, thanks for sharing.
Sal
I finished the other two, now need to get to the hardware store for some SS screws...this time drilled it for two on each side...Bill
(http://i.imgur.com/D98mNBV.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/x4Ji3XZ.jpg)
Bill that's sweet work. Btw you ain't on the Sac Delta no mo! Check avatar lol
Gotcha brother....fixed....call me next time your in SoCal let me know and I will bbq some yard bird.....Bill
done. i'd love to see that cabinet in person.
Ready to fish....cut the #6-32 SS screws to 9/16" thread length, milled the screw head down to .200 using a drill press and file. Mounting the new hood to the rod is a little cumbersome, but if you are not constantly changing reels this will not be a problem. The new clamp is tight and the locking nuts are really not necessary but Im nt ready to cut them off just yet. I realize this whole thing could be scrapped if I was using an aftermarket reel clamp such as a "Cork Puppy" but I had an idea and wanted to see if this would work. Here it is mounted on a Kencor Tenlew rod and Penn Squidder 140. Bill
(https://i.imgur.com/Z6tKawU.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/5WZAHa7.jpg?2)
(https://i.imgur.com/zeMaejr.jpg?1)
You have basically made a reel clamp for clampless reels. I am thinking they will work great for Deck Hand special rods. Really clean work
Ron
In my opinion, that is much better than the original, very creative Bill.
Great job!
Sal
Quote from: noyb72 on September 03, 2017, 10:19:09 PM
You have basically made a reel clamp for clampless reels. I am thinking they will work great for Deck Hand special rods. Really clean work
Ron
I was about to type same thing....what a nice move. Sorry Bill, you are now in the custom parts business. I'm going to start my deckhand build this weekend, and I'd like my set in Cortez Ice Blue ;D ;D ;D ;D
Ron, glad to have you back up in fresh air!
Bill, your work on this inspired me to look into things that might work to fix a split seat on a generic 9' surf rod that I've got/love/haven't used for years because of said split seat.
I found this piece on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063KX9AY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
that, while not nearly as graceful as what you've done, locks down a reel something fierce.
Thanks for the inspiration!
Ron
edit: I think I got the last one. I only paid $6.70 for it. I suspect the current $28 price has to do with them being out of stock.
Ron, that's perfect....what a price jump from $6 to $28 :o, bet they have been reading AT.com ;) Im wondering what else is out there that we could use...Hmmmm Bill
Great work Bill! 8)
Quote from: TARFU on September 23, 2017, 02:06:51 AM
Ron, that's perfect....what a price jump from $6 to $28 :o, bet they have been reading AT.com ;) Im wondering what else is out there that we could use...Hmmmm Bill
;D
I noticed they've got a ton of different sizes/ materials (SS, aluminum, nylon) of the same kind of product. Fortunately, most of them are in the $8-15 range.
Volatile Amazon pricing cracks me up: it's up to $60 today!
Hey ! I "resemble' that last remark :-[! I have a couple "beater" rods / reels that use the "hose clamp" method of restraint ;D
outstanding job Bill, really genious
Thank you Alex.....Bill
Very nice!
I know this is an older thread but I thought I'd share a no bucks fix that has worked for me over the years using nylon twine a lighter and some spar poly. Nylon twine is important as it is a very elastic fiber, polyester (Dacron) is not. A quick test if you don't know which you have is set the twine on fire, blow it out, an acrid smell is nylon, sweetish smell polyester. Start with a clove hitch on the split reel seat then continue spiraling with hitches along the length of the split seat. Take the time to pull each hitch as tight as you can, you'll feel the nylon stretch as each hitch binds up tight. Finish with 1/4" to 1/2" tags on each end. Light them on fire and smoosh them out with the metal part of the lighter when the flame reaches the wrap to lock the knots. Finish with several coats of spar poly. Cheap, quick and never had one fail.
Cool. "Spar Poly" is that the name I'd see in the hardware store?
Quote from: Gfish on March 12, 2022, 08:59:13 PMCool. "Spar Poly" is that the name I'd see in the hardware store?
I'm used to using "Spar-Urethane," but it is all exterior grade polyurethane. I would chose an oil based, but with today's polymers it really doesn't matter.
The Man
Ron, I started with the oil, but tried the latex and it's fine, dries really fast so I can get multi coats on quickly and the brush lives in a stubby plastic water filled bottle alway ready to go. I use it on old dull blanks, guide wraps and wood handles too
Nice!
Love the wood handles.
Ronald Jones