I've been seeing some members here beginning to take interest in BFS fishing so I thought I'd start up a thread and try to answer any questions any of you may have. Feel free to pick my brain, as this is probably my favorite way to fish at this point in time.
What is BFS exactly? BFS has its roots in Japan, namely the pay to fish ponds which typically stock bass and trout. Being that these ponds are very easy to access, this makes them very highly pressured. As many here know, highly pressured fish can be very reluctant to bite, thus the fishermen would downsize their offerings in order to entice a bite. Early on, no baitcast reels were capable of throwing sub 1/4 ounce baits, so the Japanese modified the smaller ABU 1500C and 2500C as well as the Millionaire GS1000C and GS2000C to make them effective at throwing such small offerings. This all took place around the early 1990s, and soon after the technique was adopted by mountain stream trout fishermen. The manufacturers took notice and started to develop rods and reels specifically for the technique. It would be in the early 2000s when bait finesse gear finally appeared on the Japanese market.
So what makes a bait finesse reel different from a more conventional baitcast reel? The biggest difference are the spools. Most baitcast reels, even the newer ones, have heavy spools designed to hold a fair amount of line. BFS reels on the other hand, have much lighter and shallower spools with most holding about 50yd worth of 6lb monofilament. The spools are shallow in order to keep the overall weight low. A lot of line can be heavy, and having a lot of line will hinder casting performance for such small baits. Some of the latest and greatest BFS reels will cast lures of 1g or 1/32 oz trouble free providing you're using a rod with a tip that loads with such a light weight. This is ultralight spinning reel territory. Secondly, the braking system. There are no BFS reels with a friction oriented centrifugal braking system. Strong brakes are needed to throw really light stuff as the spool is much better controlled. As an example, the Abu Revo Premier has 5 magnets in its braking system, while the Revo ALC-BF7, which is the same reel outfitted for BFS duties, uses 10 magnets. Lastly, the weight. BFS is much better casting one handed, and with a heavy reel one handed casting can quickly become fatiguing. BFS reels typically weigh anywhere from 4.5oz (Aldebaran BFS XG) to 7.5oz (Daiwa Millionaire CT SV), much lighter than their cousins.
Now, the cost of admission. There aren't many BFS reels on the market. As a matter of fact, the US market got its very first BFS reel just this year, the Shimano Curado BFS. The Curado BFS comes in around $200, which is an outright bargain for a factory made BFS reel. In Japan, there are other models made by other manufacturers, some can break the bank, but a few do not. The cheaper Japanese models are both made by Abu Garcia, the Ultracast BF8 and Roxani BF8, which run $250 and $130 respectively. On the higher end of things, we have the Shimano Calcutta Conquest BFS ($475) and the Daiwa Millionaire CT SV ($450). There are models in the middle of those, such as the Daiwa Alphas Air TW, Aldebaran BFS, Scorpion BFS, Revo LTX-BF8, and Revo ALC-BF7. While they can be expensive, many of the US market reels, such as the Black Max/Silver Max/Pro Max 3 reels from Abu can be outfitted for BFS duties with a $30 AliExpress spool. Same with the Daiwa Tatula CT and Fuego CT. All of those perform wonderfully with BFS spools and can really bring down the cost of admission for those interested. With that said, for not much more one can purchase the Curado BFS and go fishing, right now.
For me, BFS shines on the trout streams. I fish trout the vast majority of the time, and the control and accuracy of a baitcast reel makes fishing an overgrown creek much easier than trying to swing a spinning rod. BFS is in no way shape or form a replacement for spinning tackle, but it's another technique that will give you different options depending on where and what you're fishing for. It's a new and exciting technique, and I'm sure we will see more offerings on the US market in due time now that Shimano has broken the ice. You can bet your behind the likes of Daiwa, Abu, and Lews will have an answer to the Curado BFS at some point. When the Curado BFS was first released, it was backordered everywhere due to overwhelming demand. To me, that's a good thing. It means BFS is catching on here and that other competitors are soon to follow suit.
thanks for the explanation amigo.
few years back I started to downsize my gear according to the targeted species, before I was using the same reel and rod for curvinas, grouper, bait even light trolling, now I use some light gear for Spanish macks, seatrout/curvinas, etc and fishing became for fun, looking on youtube for light baitcasting fishing on saltwater and UL jigging is the way I found BFS fishing, while the main target is trout fishing in the streams is also used in some places of the world for fishing saltwater from the shore and I would like to try that out in a chance, if using light freshwater gear for LMB in saltwater is fun Im pretty sure BFS which is trout gear would be a great challenge with similar sized fish as spotted bay bass, calico bass, but it would be a heck of a fight with a triggerfish or a Spanish Mack.
as of today my lightest gear for saltwater is a Daiwa AirD 100 with 20# braid and an Abu Garcia Revo Sx with 6# hybrid floro-mono line, both paired with bass rods 6ft 12lb but I have some UL spinning rods as the cheapo Abu Vigilante UL 5ft rod and a fenwick eagle UL 6ft that I dont use that Im thinking to swap guides and give them a try with the Revo Sx once I go for the BFS spool, still on plans only.
What's the best line, mono or braid, and which types of each(size and brand/model).
Quote from: Gfish on October 30, 2021, 08:20:59 PM
What's the best line, mono or braid, and which types of each(size and brand/model).
For mono, I like to use the 5lb Maxima Ultragreen, great line and has been a mainstay among trout fishermen for a few decades now. I also use it as leader material for when I run braid. For braid, I really like the 8lb and 10lb Berkley X9, great stuff and it doesn't lose the color too easy. Power Pro is also really nice in the thinner diameters and is probably more widely available than most other braids. I was using Daiwa J-Braid previously but that stuff is a little too soft for my tastes, but a lot of others use it and love it.
That was good. Thank you for the history lesson.
Quote from: tincanary on October 30, 2021, 04:14:44 PM
BFS reels typically weigh anywhere from 4.5oz (Aldebaran BFS XG) to 7.5oz (Daiwa Millionaire CT SV), much lighter than their cousins.
A stock Langley Target from 1957 is 4.0 oz. With a Pfleuger Cub drag it's 4.2 oz. With a hundred yards of braid, magnets and other user modifications it is 4.7 oz.
Five years ago you could pick them up for thirty bucks. Now, they're closer to a hundred at the auction.
Great write-up Mr. Tincanary. I've been trying a little ultra-light recently but with spinners, but still enjoyed learning about this.
Btw, just out of curiousity, I looked up the Shimano Curado BFS on Shimano's website and read this: "Unlike traditional magnetic brake systems that maintain the same drag on the spool throughout the cast, Shimano's FTB capitalizes on the cast's centrifugal force and the magnetic brakes automatically adjust to slow down the spool only when braking is needed."
Hmmm.... as far as I know, all magnetic braking works this way on aluminum spools. Did they come up with some special gizmo for this reel? I doubt it. ::)
curious if there was any early BFS tinkering w/ spool-forward lefty Daiwa's
(drastically different from RH versions of same model/year -- NOT "mirrors"!!!)
if you don't want/need a levelwind, looks like you could easily strip well over 3oz.
...then, maybe add well under 1oz. for structural support & better palm-rest
I've only handled older, wider 103-size TD-X/TD-S (can be found <$50)
seems like the later TD-Z in the narrow 105-size ($100+ ballpark)
should have some shallower, more-ported spool options
Quote from: nelz on October 31, 2021, 03:13:58 PM
Great write-up Mr. Tincanary. I've been trying a little ultra-light recently but with spinners, but still enjoyed learning about this.
Btw, just out of curiousity, I looked up the Shimano Curado BFS on Shimano's website and read this: "Unlike traditional magnetic brake systems that maintain the same drag on the spool throughout the cast, Shimano's FTB capitalizes on the cast's centrifugal force and the magnetic brakes automatically adjust to slow down the spool only when braking is needed."
Hmmm.... as far as I know, all magnetic braking works this way on aluminum spools. Did they come up with some special gizmo for this reel? I doubt it. ::)
Not all mag systems work that way. The Abu Magtrax and Lews MCS are linear magnetic brakes that apply the same force throughout the cast. The magnets are in a fixed position with no moving parts that react to the speed of the spool. The Shimano FTB and Daiwa Magforce are both progressive braking systems. Those are hybrid centrifugal/magnet systems. With Magforce, the inductor in the spool is held by a spring. The faster the spool spins, the further the inductor moves into the magnet assembly. Shimano's FTB is similar, the banks of magnets are on springs and those springs extend dependent on how fast the spool is spinning. Magforce can be tuned with different springs and inductors. Some inductors are longer or made with thicker aluminum and some are even tapered at the end. FTB can be tuned by adding or removing magnets.
Wouldn't ya know, they actually do have a special gizmo! This is getting too high tech for me, lol. ;D
Quote from: nelz on October 31, 2021, 03:13:58 PM
"Unlike traditional magnetic brake systems that maintain the same drag on the spool throughout the cast, Shimano's FTB capitalizes on the cast's centrifugal force and the magnetic brakes automatically adjust to slow down the spool only when braking is needed."
Hmmm.... as far as I know, all magnetic braking works this way on aluminum spools. Did they come up with some special gizmo for this reel? I doubt it. ::)
I'm with you Nelz. The Lenz's Law eddy currents should be be proportional to spool speed. I always thought that was the beauty of magnetic brakes. Proportional braking.
I'd have to see a comparison of casting with the two systems when all other factors are the same. I'd also like to see an expertly done comparison of normal centrifugal brakes and magnetic brakes. The selling point of magnetic brakes was always that they could be adjusted from the outside knob instead of opening the reel and fumbling with the centrigugal pads. If the manufacturers have already done these comparisons then they should present us with the details and see if it can stand up to outside review.
Quote from: oc1 on November 01, 2021, 04:24:50 AM
Quote from: nelz on October 31, 2021, 03:13:58 PM
"Unlike traditional magnetic brake systems that maintain the same drag on the spool throughout the cast, Shimano's FTB capitalizes on the cast's centrifugal force and the magnetic brakes automatically adjust to slow down the spool only when braking is needed."
Hmmm.... as far as I know, all magnetic braking works this way on aluminum spools. Did they come up with some special gizmo for this reel? I doubt it. ::)
I'm with you Nelz. The Lenz's Law eddy currents should be be proportional to spool speed. I always thought that was the beauty of magnetic brakes. Proportional braking.
I'd have to see a comparison of casting with the two systems when all other factors are the same. I'd also like to see an expertly done comparison of normal centrifugal brakes and magnetic brakes. The selling point of magnetic brakes was always that they could be adjusted from the outside knob instead of opening the reel and fumbling with the centrigugal pads. If the manufacturers have already done these comparisons then they should present us with the details and see if it can stand up to outside review.
This type of system could also be adjustable. The knob could control the swing range for the magnets or the amount of centrifugal force needed to move the magnets closer to the spool. Curious if any of these reels are adjustable. I think that the basic idea of this hybrid system is to make the braking force more aggressive at higher RPMs, providing a different shape for the rpm/ braking curve compared to what we would see with fixed magnets.
This seems like a useful mechanism for lighter lures combined with shorter distances, where that initial acceleration at the release of the cast requires much heavier braking. Once the lure is in flight, it does not have much mass or velocity, so the braking needs to back off more aggressively than would occur with fixed magnets.
To go off on a bit of a tangent: It always burns my hide when the reel companies claim that centrifugal or magnetic brakes take effect "only when braking is needed". Aargh. Braking is needed when the spool is turning so fast that the surface speed is faster than speed of the line being pulled off the reel by the cast object. These systems simply provide resistance at higher RPMs, whether it is needed or not. That is why brakes need to be tuned for loads, and why the tournament guys turn adjust the brake during the cast.
Even those fancy electronic/digital cast controls are just approximating the amount of braking needed without comparing surface speed to exit velocity. I think that they do this by detecting the changes in RPMS, and apply braking to make the RPM changes better match what they expect a non-backlash cast to look like.
There are some other systems that are more interesting, if not more effective. There was a recent reel that used an internal pendulum mechanism that applied braking only during deceleration, but it was reported to make a lot of knocking noise and vibration, and had problems with more powerful casts. Might be useful on finesse reel though?
And then there were the aftermarket crossbar on a spring mechanisms available for saltwater reels in the 50s. As long as the cast line was under tension, the bar was held down, but if the surface speed exceeded the exit velocity, the slack in the line relieved the tension on the bar. As the bar lifted, it engaged the braking. I assume this mechanism had its own problems, because it never took off. The mechanism probably worked best with bigger loads and longer casts. At least it was an honest attempt to provide braking only when needed.
-J
Quote from: oc1 on November 01, 2021, 04:24:50 AM
I'm with you Nelz. The Lenz's Law eddy currents should be be proportional to spool speed. I always thought that was the beauty of magnetic brakes. Proportional braking.
I'd have to see a comparison of casting with the two systems when all other factors are the same. I'd also like to see an expertly done comparison of normal centrifugal brakes and magnetic brakes. The selling point of magnetic brakes was always that they could be adjusted from the outside knob instead of opening the reel and fumbling with the centrigugal pads. If the manufacturers have already done these comparisons then they should present us with the details and see if it can stand up to outside review.
The centrifugal brakes on modern reels can be adjusted externally like a mag brake. For instance, the Shimano SVS and Abu IVCB are externally adjustable. When you turn the knob, the distance between the brake shoes and the brake ring increases or decreases. You can also engage or disengage individual brake shoes to fine tune the braking as most will have 4 to 6 shoes mounted on the palm side of the spool. Back to mag brakes, the linear mags found in Abu and Lews reels are better for short range pitching, making them ideally suited to fishing around docks or tight structure, while the progressive brakes are better for distance or skipping baits. Here's a good article about braking systems on more modern reels https://japantackle.com/tackle_topics/brake_system.htm
One other thought.
The theoretical ideal spool for casting has zero moment of inertia. This is attempted in two ways. The first is to eliminate friction as much as possible, by improving alignment, lubrication, and to a lesser extent bearing quality.
The next is minimizing the moment of inertia. A loaded spool with zero inertia would turn only while line is pulled off of it, and would not funnel some energy off the cast to start turning. Perfect for casting. Leaving out changing the overall spool geometry ( not an option for this situation), We have to mess with mass, but not just by decreasing total mass, but also where the mass is located.
I slept through Physics, but I think that it works like this: Inertia in this case is measured as torque and is calculated this way: I =M R2
Where M=Mass, and R=Radius (distance from center)
For all the points that mak up the spool. And since we are squaring the radius, weight farther from the center has a much more significant effect. The moment of inertia for one gram of mass at 5 mm from the center of the spool would be 25, but one gram at 12 mm for the center would change that to 144!
So if I got all this right, it is not enough to just make the spool lighter. We also have to consider if the design shifts weight outward, which a BFS spool probably does with the larger arbor. It is entirely possible to design a lighter spool that has higher inertia.
My guess is that the there is still a net benefit in inertia on these aftermarket BFS spools, but it is probably much less than the difference in loaded spool weight might lead us to believe. That may be part of the reason why these reels need such hefty brakes.
I wonder if there is a better spool design that might increase arbor diameter with a hard skin foam. It would probably also require some well balanced porting of a standard spool, so not something that could be attempted at home.
There must have been folks that attempted a quick and dirty BFS reel by using foam or cork to build a larger arbor. I wonder how well that worked.
I have to admit that the first thing that came to mind when I found out about BFS was "Big effin Scam", but now I am leaning toward it being similar to some of the other recent fishing trends coming out of Japan. Strip off all the marketing BS, clothing lines, lifestyle products, overpriced tackle and innovator hero-worship, and a kernel of something pretty interesting remains.
-J
"without comparing surface speed to exit velocity". From Dave's post#10. "Surface speed", is that the spool speed at the line surface? "Exit velocity", is that maybe where the line leaves the spool, or where it goes through the level-wind guide, or maybe the rod tip?
Haven't looked at digital cast control reels yet.
Makes me think of sensor technology. Maybe one on the reel for "surface speed", but what about reading "exit velocity"? Oh, boy! A reel with an ECU(brain)and at least 2-sensors, think of the possibilities...
'
Quote from: Gfish on November 09, 2021, 09:03:50 PM
"without comparing surface speed to exit velocity". From Dave's post#10. "Surface speed", is that the spool speed at the line surface? "Exit velocity", is that maybe where the line leaves the spool, or where it goes through the level-wind guide, or maybe the rod tip?
Haven't looked at digital cast control reels yet.
Makes me think of sensor technology. Maybe one on the reel for "surface speed", but what about reading "exit velocity"? Oh, boy! A reel with an ECU(brain)and at least 2-sensors, think of the possibilities...
'
Surface speed is the speed that the surface of a rotating object is moving. A rolling wheel's surface speed will be the same as the speed it is moving over the road. It is a function of the RPMs and the diameter. On a cast, the surface speed is how fast the spool is releasing the line measured in feet per second. Exit velocity is how fast the line is actually leaving the spool (as a result of being pulled by the cast object) If the surface speed is greater than the exit velocity, the line unwinding from the spool doesn't have anywhere to go. Eventually the line forms a loop large enough that it cannot move as fast as the surface speed, so a fresh loop forms underneath. Over and over. A backlash is simply a stack of of these loops with a few twisted around others. It makes it easier for me to clear backlashes to think of them this way.
I think that the story for digital cast controls will be something like this: Cheap digital sensors can track time and revolutions, but they cannot easily measure surface speeds with a shrinking diameter and exit velocities (both optical based and hard to measure for a bunch of reasons). So what they can do instead is use some test data to get an idea of what to look for in terms of changes in RPMs over time that means a cast probably needs more or less braking at a given moment and adjust accordingly. The specific algorithms will be some sort of secret, but if you watch a tournament caster play with the thumb and mag knob, you will probably have a good idea. So without getting a Shimano engineer liquored up, this is probably as close as we are going to figuring out how digital cast controls work, unless somebody has a better theory.
-J
I snatched this guy off of Facebook marketplace cheap, a TD Sol, which is one of few US market finesse baitcast reels. These were made from about '04 to '08 or so. Whoever was in it last probably never bothered to look at the schematic. One pinion yoke spring was missing and the other was inserted on pinion shaft. I have a SLP Works spool coming for it and had some Carbontex sitting in my parts bin that fit. I got on the phone with Daiwa to get new springs all the way around and they didn't even charge me, that's some great service!
(https://i.imgur.com/e8u0xLsh.jpg)
The neat thing about the SOL is the tiny size and palming ergonomics. I love small reels.
If you ever see one of these:
https://japantackle.com/daiwa-alphasr.html
grab it!
A beautiful little reel!
The Alphas platform is my favorite bar none. It's so versatile with many spool and gear options available. The Alphas platform ran from '04 to '19 with many different models over the years. The newer '20+ platform, while nice, doesn't seem to do much for me. Here's one of my Alphas CT SV reels, bought two of them last year when they the Japanese shops had a fire sale to make room for the '20 model. I have both a 7.2 and 6.3 ratio, picked them up for something like $140 each. Prior to the fire sale, they were $300 to $350 depending on where you bought it.
(https://i.imgur.com/zHdbx5Ph.jpg)
i look at this and think, "welcome to my world...". ;D
Quote from: oc1 on November 10, 2021, 06:54:01 AM
The neat thing about the SOL is the tiny size and palming ergonomics. I love small reels.
you're right Steve, Daiwa low profile reels sits pretty low on the reelseats compared to shimano and abu (at least the ones I have held in my hands)
right now I have the Daiwa AirD coastal, its really tiny and as well sits pretty low on the reelseat.
I just put new bearings on it, regular bearings not ceramic or those made specially for BFS, I dont know if its a good candidate to mod as BFS reel.
Quote from: steelfish on November 10, 2021, 05:42:58 PM
you're right Steve, Daiwa low profile reels sits pretty low on the reelseats compared to shimano and abu (at least the ones I have held in my hands)
right now I have the Daiwa AirD coastal, its really tiny and as well sits pretty low on the reelseat.
I just put new bearings on it, regular bearings not ceramic or those made specially for BFS, I dont know if its a good candidate to mod as BFS reel.
It might be a great candidate, but the challenge will be finding a spool that fits. I looked at the schematic for the AirD Coastal and it doesn't look like it's shared with other platforms. My first thought was Tatula, but the Tatula spool bearings are located in the side plates. Your best bets are to take measurements of the spool and see if you can find one that fits.
Got her all slapped back together yesterday, still waiting on a few parts though. Alphas SV105 spool should be here soon as should the Roro micro spool bearings. This baby is smooth. When I first got it the bearings were dry as a bone, turning the handle or flicking the spool sounded like a train passing by. Nice and quiet now.
(https://i.imgur.com/RCkmb3Zh.jpg)
Beautiful Sol, love the color of that series. Just a thought, wouldn't a Daiwa "T-Wing" model work even better BFS?
Btw, I have the spinner version of the Sol, also smooth as butter. ;D
Quote from: nelz on November 12, 2021, 01:38:36 PM
Just a thought, wouldn't a Daiwa "T-Wing" model work even better BFS?
Daiwa just recently released T-wing BFS reels; last year with the Alphas Air TW and Steez Air TW, and this year with the Alphas Air TW Gekkabijin (Japanese for queen of the night). The T-wing should theoretically provide better performance, but I have no direct experience with those models. The older Alphas platform like I'm using uses a very narrow spool, so not having a T-wing may not be a big deal. The smallest baits I'm throwing at CD1 Countdowns and the largest are CD5s, so about 2.5g to 5g. I know with the Shimano low profile BFS reels, the aperture on the line guide is cone shaped to facilitate easier casting. With the Calcutta Conquest, the aperture is positioned further away from the spool to achieve the same effect.
Finally, all parts have arrived and now it's good to go. I grabbed a used Alphas SV105 spool and an inductor spring for a TD-Z Type R+, going to put a hurting on the steelhead with this one. She should be plenty good down to 1/8 or better.
(https://i.imgur.com/zhWqPibh.jpg)
Bob, is that spool the lightest one made for the SOL? 14 grams versus 16 grams for the stock spool, right? Do they make one of those Alphas spools that looks like a bird cage for this reel?
Is that spring going to produce more distance, or just more free spin time?
I don't even understand the brakes on the SOL and this Japan after market stuff is difficult to sort out.
Quote from: oc1 on November 25, 2021, 06:19:48 AM
Bob, is that spool the lightest one made for the SOL? 14 grams versus 16 grams for the stock spool, right? Do they make one of those Alphas spools that looks like a bird cage for this reel?
Is that spring going to produce more distance, or just more free spin time?
I don't even understand the brakes on the SOL and this Japan after market stuff is difficult to sort out.
The inductor spring will make it better for distance. It's a stronger than the spring that originally came in the spool, so the spool needs to spin faster in order to get the inductor to move into the magnet assembly to slow it down. Some of these SV spools are way over braked for my tastes, and the Type R+ inductor spring remedies that. Ray's Studio sells a honeycomb spool in 33mm that fits the early Alphas platform reels such as this one, but I wasn't looking to cast the absolute lowest I could. I picked up this spool for less than what I would've paid for a Ray's spool, posted a WTB ad on another forum and a guy happened to have one he wasn't using. I should be putting it on the water soon, going to go about half a spool of 8lb and see if I can get a steelhead on the line maybe tomorrow.
Here's a great video showing how Daiwa Magforce brakes work. https://youtu.be/aFRFAXeosnY?t=457
Excellent video. Most I watch, almost skip through important detail, but that guy get's it right.
Yeah, I understamd the brale system now. I lookd at my SOL and thought about pulling off that c-clip.... but didn't. Thank you very much.
Good video for seeing the mechanisms, but I think he is struggling a bit on the sciencing. The explanation about how those plastic wedges cause the inductor to move has to be wrong, or every time any cone shaped object was spun it would shoot out sideways.
My best guess is that since no object spins perfectly true, there is a bit less friction on the widening side of the surface, allowing the inductor to drift outward. But the wedges will only hold against the spring pulling the inductor back if there is enough centrifugal force to push the wedges tight against the inductor. But this is just a guess.
Also, I am suspicious on the theory regarding benefit of lighter braking during some sort of acceleration phase. It doesn't make sense to me. Any launched object that is not self propelled will have its maximum velocity upon release. Think of a baseball pitch. The pitch is not going to speed up after it leaves the pitcher's hand. The only difference with a cast is that there is some inertia to overcome as the spool first starts turning. But I would expect that this inertia phase to extremely short in duration (like a revolution or two), and not very significant in terms of force. It just seems too tiny to make a difference here. There may still be a case for more capacity to ease into maximum braking, but it would probably be for another reason, like avoiding shock waves.
But some clever and delicate designs to be sure. It is interesting that they are willing to hang a fairly chunky braking system on a lightweight spool. Braking seems to be a big deal on these little reels.
-J
Quote from: oc1 on November 26, 2021, 06:49:59 PM
Yeah, I understamd the brale system now. I lookd at my SOL and thought about pulling off that c-clip.... but didn't. Thank you very much.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot. Here is the lightest spool available for the Sol https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32644631957.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.2a803c000sAx1d&mp=1
The Sol is the US market version of the Daiwa Alphas 103. The 103 and SV105 are very similar, save for the spool, gears and driveshaft. The gears on the Sol and 103 are bronze with a brass driveshaft, while the SV105 uses aluminum components and shaves a little more than an ounce off of the weight. The spools for all three models are 33mm diameter and can be used on the Sol/103/SV105.
Geting back to selection of braid, anglers choice, fishing corner, 16 strand braid, @ 60 Lbs, it is 0.029mm very smooth, if you were to use 20Lbs or 30 that would be very thin, cheers Don.
Quote from: tincanary on November 26, 2021, 09:56:16 PM
Here is the lightest spool available for the Sol https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32644631957.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.2a803c000sAx1d&mp=1
Thank you very much Bob. I'll try it.
Quote from: Donnyboat on November 26, 2021, 11:32:31 PM
Geting back to selection of braid, anglers choice, fishing corner, 16 strand braid, @ 60 Lbs, it is 0.029mm very smooth, if you were to use 20Lbs or 30 that would be very thin, cheers Don.
The new Saltiga 12 strand braid is crazy thin. Might be too soft though? And unsure if it comes in low enough weights. Presumably there is dedicated finesse fishing line out there; Japan loves to have specialty products for absolutely everything :)
just came across this in old saved links (prob. got it from old post here... Bob's?), but in case it hasn't popped up on AT...
https://fishingdiscoveries.com/bait-finesse-system/#:~:text=What%20is%20Bait%20Finesse%20System%20%28BFS%29%20Fishing%3F%20%28including,over%20the%20%E2%80%9Cwho%20did%20what%20first%E2%80%9D%20in%20BFS. (https://fishingdiscoveries.com/bait-finesse-system/#:~:text=What%20is%20Bait%20Finesse%20System%20%28BFS%29%20Fishing%3F%20%28including,over%20the%20%E2%80%9Cwho%20did%20what%20first%E2%80%9D%20in%20BFS.)
don't know how good/valid/current it may be, but seems thorough
I have a shot at a Daiwa Pixy (the orange one) at a good price. Looking for feedback on this reel since I've never seen one in person...
Quote from: steelfish on November 10, 2021, 05:42:58 PM... right now I have the Daiwa AirD coastal, its really tiny and as well sits pretty low on the reelseat. I just put new bearings on it, regular bearings not ceramic or those made specially for BFS, I dont know if its a good candidate to mod as BFS reel.
Fyi, don't know if you're still looking, but I just spotted a
"Daiwa Aird 100R Red Tune Spool" on the bay for very reasonable price. Supposedly fits the Aird 100R Blue reel as well.
Quote from: nelz on February 01, 2022, 09:16:01 PM
I have a shot at a Daiwa Pixy (the orange one) at a good price. Looking for feedback on this reel since I've never seen one in person...
Killer reel. You will want the Pixzilla upgrade kit from Smooth Drag, it adds a couple more washers to the drag stack and increases its range. The spool on the Pixy is 31mm, so it can use the spool from the Daiwa Presso and Alphas Air Stream Custom. If you want a clicking drag, the driveshaft and associated hardware and clicking star wheel from a Daiwa SV105 and Alphas CT SV all fit and work well. Lots of options on the Pixy. The TD-Z line guide used in the pre T-wing Zillions and Steez is a drop in replacement.
Thanks Tincanary for that info. Unfortunately, as it turns out, I decided my budget cannot justify this expense. It was a great deal and a beautiful little reel, but still pretty pricey, not to mention all the upgrades you mentioned would add alot more $$$.
Quote from: nelz on February 06, 2022, 06:24:54 PM
Thanks Tincanary for that info. Unfortunately, as it turns out, I decided my budget cannot justify this expense. It was a great deal and a beautiful little reel, but still pretty pricey, not to mention all the upgrades you mentioned would add alot more $$$.
You don't have to go all out on it as it's quite the competent caster, even factory stock. It'll cast 1/8 no problem. Where the issue lies in the Pixy is the weak drag. The kit from Smooth Drag is ~$15 and makes for a much more stout reel. Later Pixys, like the PX68, PX68 SPR, and PX Type R already have the beefier drag in them, it's the original Liberto Pixy that doesn't.
Check out the Tsurinoya Genius if you are looking for a decent reel. Got it for $80ish shipped a couple of months back. I use it mostly in San Diego bay, it has held up well (pre-serviced ofcourse). I had a Daiwa Alphas Air TW, and the most recent Millionaire with the shallow spool and new bearings and this is is as good as the Alphas. I use 3-4g jigheads. My only issue is the capacity. Thin braid is such a pain to use so I use only 4lb mono or sometimes 2lb. With 6lb mono once cast and you can see the knot at the spool already.
+1 to the Tsurinoya Genius. It's a fabulous reel for the price, and the only baitcaster I can reliably cast 1g lures on. Most of my BFS is done with old Ambassadeurs with the new light spools, bought this one to see if a modern reel would really be any better. It's much better on 2g and lighter lures, most probably due to the mag brakes and superlight spool. Most of my fishing is 2-4g which the Abus handle perfectly well.
But if looking for a BFS for really light fishing, the Genius is a great buy.
Works on bigger fish just fine..
Wow nice 'bow. Big wild lookin fish. Wher'ed you get it?
Don't know about a true BFS reel till I get one in-hand, but looks like fun, fishin and tinkering.
Quote from: Gfish on October 18, 2023, 05:55:52 PMWow nice 'bow. Big wild lookin fish. Wher'ed you get it?
Don't know about a true BFS reel till I get one in-hand, but looks like fun, fishin and tinkering.
it's a hoot. Where I live, I can reliably fish every species on BFS save for King salmon, musky, and lake sturgeon. Everything from trout and panfish to coho and Atlantic salmon are fair game. My "heavier" rods are ML power.