Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Every time I get a wood splinter it feels bigger that it is can you imagine getting shot with an arrow 1" is pretty big.Under a fingernail is probably my all time favorite place to get a splinter 

Found it. It's at the carbon/glass interface. It seems like a surface defect. I bent the rod way deeper than a fish likely would while also creating a non-favorable fulcrum. Didn't snap. I'll just put a guide over that spot.

I also held the splinter up to it to make sure there's not more in my finger. That was not a "surface" splinter it went deep. I couldn't see any of the shaft of it under my skin.

I lucked out that the shard was clean/soaked in alcohol at the time it entered or I bet I'd be looking at something worse. And thankfully I was thinking clearly enough to clean my reel work tweezers in that same alcohol before I went digging.

I think what your hearing is the spring-loaded anti-reverse dogs.  The dog noise should be quieter than the actual clicker though.  Spring anti-reverse are noisier but more reliable than the ambassadeur "wing" type.

Quote from: oldmanjoe on Today at 04:33:30 AMYes I am trying to ferret out why and when it happens .  More so because main stream spooling usual dead ends the line to the arbor pin or to the hole in the arbor shaft . 
        So how does the line slip on the spool?    I do understand that starting spooling without enough tension will result in dig ins and line waffling .      My next question is when the first layer goes down on the arbor ,are the wraps close together all the way across the spool or they corkscrewed with the second layer crisscrossed filling in the first layer , like a level wind will do .

 This happens on non levelwind reels, so it is packed however you want.  Most folk pack the first layers with wraps close together, but not very carefully.

I would suggest to start with what we know: 

1.  It is not too difficult to make an arbor knot that holds very tight (your tests). But the arbor knot only holds when the standing end is under tension.  Ergo, if the arbor knot is slipping, it must no longer be under tension.

2. This problem does not occur with nylon, so what is different about nylon?  First off, nylon stretches much more than braid.  That extra stretch m might be providing a reservoir of tension.  Also nylon has a match higher coefficient of friction, so it will stick to spool better.  Nylon also tends to dig in less than braid. But there are other differences as well.

3.  The slipping problem tends to happen more frequently when the spool is not packed tightly. Loose pack means less elastic tension, and more braid digging in.

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Unfortunately, this problem is happening deep in the spool, so while it is easy to observe that it is happening, it is hard to observe how it is happening.

For example, here is a non-obvious hypothesis:  When a solid piece of plastic with a hole in the center expands when heated,  the diameter of the hole also expands proportionally. If the line loaded on the spool behaves like it solid piece of plastic, then the line filled indoors and then taken outdoors may no longer be tight to the arbor.  BTW, the coefficient of thermal expansion for the plastic used to make braid is about twice that of the plastic used to make nylon fishing line.

But this is just one of many hypotheses.  It could be something more obvious, like not getting the bottom layers tight.  Or there could be multiple ways to cause it.  Who knows?

Not sure how to get to the bottom of this  without doing a lot of spool fills.


-J

  For tying spinner spool.  Just a loop knot ,than fold it to make a bigger loop.
  Keep the tag / "tail" as the trailer .  2 wraps will work.

Quote from: jurelometer on Today at 03:46:15 AMThat's a whopper Bennie!

Thanks my friend,,,, but now I'm going down another rabbit hole,,,,my 5wt has a small spoll,,,so I'm looking at abel,,, but cork drag washers,,? So do I got to replace it with carbon,,he he,,,,,

  This is how I tie the arbor knot for bait casters.     Put the reel in free spool.
      I tape the line to the side of the spool.   Pay out 4 turns , yes the line goes on backwards for 4 turns .      Remove tape end and pull it out so you can tie a Rapala knot around the main line .     Test it and see if it works for you.

This is the one's in going to work  on,,,,,

My back yard 5 riding mowers that I got to get fixed first the wheel horse 520 or the GT500 or the snapper,,,, because the new troy built is #%@$,,,,he he,,,but I to push mow the front yard,,,,,,

Quote from: Brewcrafter on April 27, 2024, 04:42:46 PMJurelometer touched on it; keep in mind also what I will for want of a better description call the "lever".  Attempts to get the braid to slip with wraps directly on the spool would be akin to attempting to loosen a bolt using just your fingers.  But when you then use a wrench on the bolt, you now have introduced a lever the length of the wrench, and in the case of a spool, that lever is more a less the Radius of the line piled on the spool (for arguments sake say 2"?).  So if you pull on the line now, using the same amount of pulling force that you are applying with the "2 wrap test", you are actually multiplying the level of torque that is being seen.  Probably some pretty basic calculations; but I cut class that day to go fishing.....- john

   I`m with ya , I cut a lot of classes also .  I started my test with just starting the bolt , I did not finger tighten .   Not sure I am following you on the "2 wrap test", but torque and drag efficiency decrease as more layers go on the spool.