Is it possible to remove the guilds from a broken Terez rod so I can recycle them without damaging the guilds?
you should be able to use a sharp cheap knife and cut through the threads to remove guide. be careful and go slow. i do this all the time. cut to the side of the guide so you can just pull the guide off.
thorehamer is right, I use a box cutter to cut the thread just below the guide foot on both feel so as to remove the thread and lift the guide without damaging it. If you pull on the guide to remove the thread you could bend or damage the guide.
Joe
Use a lighter or an alcohol torch to heat the epoxy coating the guides before you try to cut the threads. It will soften up and make it much easier to cut into. Much safer too!
Mike
I use some sort of razor knife and cut on top of the foot. You can bare down on it a little because if the knife goes too deep it will only hit the metal foot of the guide and not the rod.
-steve
I usually do this on the lathe. Remember, too much heat will melt the resins in the blank and destroy it! Carefully heat while rod is spinning with a heat gun and then use a #11 scalpel blade to pick under the tunnel of the guide. If you just cut a few threads you'll be able to pull them and the rod will spin while the thread unwinds. This will insure that you don't cut into the blank. If under wrapped do the same thing but cut very carefully at one end of the under wrap to pick up the thread and unwind. After I will take some #400 wet sandpaper and very lightly smooth out and build up of epoxy before I do the re-wrap. Be very careful with any blades. If you cut too far and go into the blank there is a good chance it will fail when you need it most.
I can't stress careful enough. Many graphite and composites have very thin walls and small diameters. All it takes is one oh Sh*t and a good blank is gone.
Steve has great advise about cutting on the guide foot if you can get into the tunnel beside it.
Dave
Heat gun will make it much easier when the coating is soft. Box cutter or utility knife and cuts thru it like butter.
Quote from: mrbrklyn on August 08, 2018, 08:39:38 PM
well the rod is snapped, so who cares.
Thought you were trying to save a good rod.
The guides you are removing are not good enough for the Black Hole Blank. You need Fugi's of good quality.
Quote from: mrbrklyn on August 09, 2018, 04:14:40 AM
Quote from: bluefish69 on August 09, 2018, 03:37:16 AM
The guides you are removing are not good enough for the Black Hole Blank. You need Fugi's of good quality.
Fuji K Guide with Alconite Rings,?
I thought the guilds were one of the most important part of the terez's innovation.
Check that the guides that you are salvaging are truly Fuji. Shimano are apt to using cheaper copies on some of their rods for cost saving. Only Fuji guides have 'Fuji' stamped in the side of the frame. If the name isn't stamped there, they are copies!!!
Quote from: oc1 on August 08, 2018, 08:08:39 PM
I use some sort of razor knife and cut on top of the foot. You can bare down on it a little because if the knife goes too deep it will only hit the metal foot of the guide and not the rod.
-steve
That's the proven way to remove them. If very light guide take extra care to cut through the threads and epoxy.
There is a possibility the inserts will pop lose or develop a crack. More so than when using Fuji. Far less headaches long term with Fuji guides than most others... Jeff
Quote from: mrbrklyn on September 01, 2018, 09:29:50 PM
Quote from: bluefish69 on August 09, 2018, 03:37:16 AM
The guides you are removing are not good enough for the Black Hole Blank. You need Fugi's of good quality.
can you give me more detail on this?
Shimano are notorious for using cheaper 'look alike' rings/guides on their rods, to keep the unit price down. See this almost weekly with the repair side of our business - cracked ceramic inserts (shredding line) or inserts that have pooped out. By comparison have very, very few instances of the same problems with Fuji guides.
Fuji stamp their name on all their guides, right down to the smallest sizes. Other companies have since followed, but naming your products is not a sign of reputation, just identity. Reputation is something else!
Quote from: mrbrklyn on September 02, 2018, 07:10:30 PM
QuoteFuji stamp their name on all their guides, right down to the smallest sizes. Other companies have since followed, but naming your products is not a sign of reputation, just identity. Reputation is something else!
How is it not fraud though, that Shimno is advertising they are using Fuji guilds, but they are giving you knockoffs.
If Shimano say they're using Fuji components then they're probably genuine Fujis. The thing is that Fuji is just like a car manufacturer, say Nissan. Just because you buy a Nissan does not mean you are getting a GT-R. They make cheap guides and they make very good guides, and the company building the rod can spec whatever they want. It takes a very good eye to look at a guide and say "oh that's a Fuji K series silicon carbide".
I've seen Shimano rods with everything from Pac-bay to Sea-guide to Alps to Fuji. I've got a rod from another manufacturers that had a Fuji K stripper guide then Alps on the rest of rod. All of the manufacturers make good guides, bad guides, and kinda alright guides, the name that is or isn't stamped into it means little.
Over the last 15 years of rod building we have come across a lot of guides from all sorts of various companies, with varying degrees of negativity. The only ring/guide that stands out are Fuji. Even their cheapest grade of 'O' (aluminium oxide) tends to be better than a lot of other rings with supposed higher quality ceramic inserts.
Basically Fuji use the same quality stainless steel for their frames across the whole range. The frames vary in style and technology, but they are all fit for extreme salt water use. What does change is the quality and performance of the various ceramic inserts, they get stronger and more friction free as the range goes up from 'O' to 'A' to 'N' to 'Sic' to 'T'. And in some cases they get thinner and lighter.
If Shimano say they have used Fuji guides, and the guides are actually stamped with 'Fuji' into the frame then the guide is probably a genuine Fuji, but the quality is then the question. As another poster has suggested, it would take someone very familiar to determine visually exactly which insert you have in the guide.
The point being for higher spec rods, where line speed in either casting or fish fighting is going to be high, then higher grade Fujis do a better job of coping with friction, and possible line deterioration. With our top line competition surf casting rods we do tend towards using Fujis with SiC, purely because of the lower friction characteristics exhibited during the casting operations. We could possibly get away with a much lower and cheaper grade like 'O', but our clients would suffer noise from the guides when using braid, and slightly greater line wear through use. In our case we judge that line noise during the cast equates to friction, and hence loss of casting distance.
As you original post suggested you might be using these reclaimed guides on a high spec blank, it might be a better investment to buy some new Fuji guides of an appropriate spec to your anticipated and desired performance.
Hope that helps
Cheers from sunny Africa
Some of the smaller Fuji guides don't have room for the Fuji name stamp but most of the larger ones do. When it comes to that I will trust my supplier.
Joe
Quote from: oc1 on August 08, 2018, 08:08:39 PM
I use some sort of razor knife and cut on top of the foot. You can bare down on it a little because if the knife goes too deep it will only hit the metal foot of the guide and not the rod.
-steve
X2