Hi just watching TV, they were advertising, does it all drill bits, by renavator, anyone used them, welcome any feed back thank, cheers Don.
Donny thanks for the question. I too am interested in what are the best drill bits. I broke one the other day and I was surprised by the way it shattered. We await some direction from some of the machinists on the site. Dominick
For the last few years I have only used HSS-Co drill bits (5-8% Cobalt). They go through anything including hard stainless. They keep their edge better than just HSS and are a lot more heat tolerant. They are slightly more expensive but worth it. I like my taps to be HSS-Co as well (when I can get them - not always easy). Aside from very large drill bits I avoid the ordinary carbon steel ones.
There are several excellent machinists on this site whom I'm sure will chip in :)
Lidl store chain has good ones.
I to use cobalt drills especialy on stainless steel. Titanium nitride coated bits are ok for mild steel. When drilling ss use a slower speed with steady firm pressure. Rudy
Rudy makes a good point - for stainless lower speed and heavier pressure is the way to go - I also use cutting or cooking oil (rape seed). For aluminium I use WD40.
An industrial water soluable oil works well also. It can be applied with a brush or a steady misting.
I used these my last 10 years in the trade.
A superior product.
Doesn't mean they can't break.
(work on your technique)
Sold in the best hardware stores or online many places.
http://triumphtwistdrill.com/
Steve
Thanks for all the good info everyone, I was asking about the does it all set, as the one bit is supposed to drill masonry, ceramic, hard steel including, SS, & timber, I have a small set of P&N number 2 set, that I think are mild steel bits, although with slow speed I am drilling through SS okay, but I have had this set for many years, so it is time I replaced them. as some bits are broken. cheers Don.
I have a simple philosophy - Hss(Co) for metal, SDS tct for masonry, diamond coated for ceramic/glass, almost anything will drill wood but why not use the correct drill bit????
Avoid carbon steel drill bits unless you are drilling wood. For everything else, get HSS or cobalt. Carbon steel will lose its temper first time it gets too hot, and it will never hold an edge after, even with sharpening. HSS will hold its temper through cherry red heat, and they are still somewhat flexible/forgiving. Cobalt is harder and holds an edge better, but is more brittle. Cobalt generally works better in stainless and other tough alloys, but HSS is more forgiving.
Stainless (and titanium, and a number of other metals) work harden. So if you are drilling without making chips, you are only making the material harder. The name of the game here is slow and heavy pressure. Keep in mind, this is all relative. A 1/4" drill but still needs to run faster, and with less pressure than a 1" drill bit.
I could get complicated with speed/feed charts like machine shops use, but its not necessary. Shops need to make money, and weigh productivity vs tool life. For everyone else, its usually better just to go slower and get far longer tool life. So go slow enough and heavy enough to get a good, consistent chip from the drill. That will get you close enough for most.
Hi Don, There's already very good advice here from other members about drill types and techniques for different materials so I'll just give my 2 bobs worth on the 'Renovator Does It All Drill Bit Set'. I haven't seen the TV add or used one of the drill bits but after a bit of searching on the web I will go out on a limb and suggest they won't work well in any material. If it was me, I would just replace the broken or worn out sizes in your P&N set as you need them and if it's a size you use often buy a couple.
Mike
Thanks Chris,Adam & mike, I have been drilling stailess steel, with holes between 3/8 & 1/2 FOR MOUNTING MY ROCKLOBSTER POT WINCH, THE BIT WAS`NT DRILLING TILL I STARPENED IT, THEN IT WENT VERY GOOD, NOT THATi KNOW MUCH ABOUT SHARPENING THEM, YOU MAY SEE THE FRAME i AM TALKING ABOUT, WHEN I GET IT FINISHED, I MIGHT HAVE TO LEAN ON my mate Mike TO PLACE THE PICTURES ON THE FORUM, CHEERS Don.
This works for me in HSS for metal.
For wood I use brad point, these HSS, or Forstner bits.
The thing I like about the Grizzly set is the indexed metal case where you can see exactly the size — and if I break one — just pull out another.
Occasionally, if you are on their mailing list — they offer these on sale for around $135. Even at regular price, they are inexpensive enough though.
To answer your question directly — I would be hesitant and wary about a "do it all" bit. Best to match the bit to the material being drilled.
Best,
Fred
Thanks Fred. On your recommendation I checked out Grizzly. They have smaller sets than the one you show. I might go for only a few drill bits as I don't use a lot. Dominick
Quote from: Dominick on November 23, 2018, 06:28:34 PM
... I might go for only a few drill bits as I don't use a lot. Dominick
Dominick!
Don't know why you just need a few drill bits,
YOU JUST HAVE A SCREW LOOSE ;D :o
I'm dropping off Rick's Jerky later today,
Wayne
Quote from: El Pescador on November 23, 2018, 07:26:41 PM
Quote from: Dominick on November 23, 2018, 06:28:34 PM
... I might go for only a few drill bits as I don't use a lot. Dominick
Dominick!
Don't know why you just need a few drill bits,
YOU JUST HAVE A SCREW LOOSE ;D :o
I'm dropping off Rick's Jerky later today,
Wayne
You beat me to it ;D...
Yeah, and I don't use a lot of my screws either. :D ;D ;D Dominick
Sal!
When served up a whiffle ball...
I swing for the fence!
Next time the underhand pitch from Dominick sails right over the plate is yours Sal!
Wayne
Yuck, yuck yuck, now tell them about the Donner party... Dominick
My use of drill bits are machine bits. I use jobber bits very seldom.........................Joe
Fred & Joe thanks for you info, very good, & Wayne thanks for your info, on the screw loose, I try to stay away from thems blokes, is there anymore like that Wayne, cheers Don.
First, I'm not a machinist. I was drilling stainless steel shafts using cobalt high-speed bits, I purchased a broken new box on line for 50% off. They are still doing a good job, but for the stainless steel shaft, I wasn't too happy.
A friend mentioned irwin black and gold high-speed steel bits. he said to try plain water with a spay bottle to keep them cool...I was impressed. This was the reason I asked Mike what he uses for his custom work. Mike said cobalt, by the way.
Sal
Hi Sal you always helpful, thanks a million buddy, Cheers Don.
Quote from: Donnyboat on November 24, 2018, 01:19:30 PM
Hi Sal you always helpful, thanks a million buddy, Cheers Don.
Hello Don, I just wanted to put out my experience with these for what its worth. Usually I don't follow the rating of the product, unless it has a bunch of negative comments. I like to try them for myself.
I'm certainly not pushing you away from what the pros have mentioned above :).
Best,
Sal
Sal: You don't have to a Machinist to learn something about the tools that are used, For boring holes is Stainless it is better to use screw machine bit in order to keep the bore straight, jobber bits have to much flex. We can learn from every person here if they are willing to advise.
Joe
Quote from: Alto Mare on November 24, 2018, 12:49:42 PM
First, I'm not a machinist. I was drilling stainless steel shafts using cobalt high-speed bits, I purchased a broken new box on line for 50% off. They are still doing a good job, but for the stainless steel shaft, I wasn't too happy.
A friend mentioned irwin black and gold high-speed steel bits. he said to try plain water with a spay bottle to keep them cool...I was impressed. This was the reason I asked Mike what he uses for his custom work. Mike said cobalt, by the way.
Sal
Sal, if you get the chance try some water soluable cutting oil. I know it is available at industrial hardware stores. It can be mixed with water 10:1,20:1,30:1,etc. Years ago when I worked in my Dad's machine shop that's all we used for all metals. The other good part about it is any over spray that gets on the machinery the water evapoates & the oil protects the machinery. Rudy
Brownells's also has a cutting/tapping lube: Do Drill.
Quote from: Reel 224 on November 24, 2018, 06:28:05 PM
Sal: You don't have to a Machinist to learn something about the tools that are used, For boring holes is Stainless it is better to use screw machine bit in order to keep the bore straight, jobber bits have to much flex. We can learn from every person here if they are willing to advise.
Joe
I second that. I use screw machine length bits almost exclusively. They are plenty long for nearly everything, and work so much better. They flex less, walk less, and you can put more pressure on them, which is just what you need for stainless. I get mine from mcmaster because I mostly only use them in a handful of sizes for tapped holes. Lots of options there.
And if you have a setup that accomodates them (drill press or mill, and a well clamped workpiece), carbide drill bits are awesome. They go through stainless and titanium like butter.
While the experts are here....
Do 135 degree bits will walk less on stainless than 118 degree bits? Or, do I have that backwards?
Thanks,
-steve
Steve, just start the drilling with a center punch mark & then a starter hole or drill through with a smaller drill. Then the angle won't matter much. Rudy
I always use a center drill to start all my holes. If you go that route, the drill angle really doesn't matter much at all. As Adam commented, carbide is great!
For my applications here, its used dry. Be especially careful when breaking thru a piece as that's when carbide gets chipped or broken.
............Lou
For what it's worth, I've been using a Drill Doctor bit sharpener. When I break a bit it just takes a few minutes to put a new point on it, and the bit is now shorter and stiffer. Bill
Thank you. I use a punch but my starter holes wander because the small bits have too much flex.
-steve
If you use a center drill, you wont have that problem. The center drill will provide an angular start for your regular drill.
.................Lou
In line boring and mill drill press you start with a center drill to git the drilling process started. This is how it's done........................Joe
Thank y'all,
To quote the Boss, "Sharing is caring"
Steve
Yes, thank you very much. With your help I might drill a straight hole where it is supposed to be for the first time in my life.
-steve
The bulk set of drills that Fred O mentioned from Grizzly is on sale for $119.95. Just spotted it.
................Lou
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-170PC-Bulk-Drill-Bit-Organizer/H8182
Thanks, Lou —
That is the best value I have ever seen on that set of TiNHSS 135 degree bits.
I keep one of each size in my truck, same in the reel shop , and the metal box with replacements stored in the outside shop.
Best,
Fred
I didn't notice weather those bits were Jobber or Screw bits. Not to be pessimistic but I question when company's offer 10 of each as throwaways replacements.
Joe
Any opinions on this set? Dominick
https://www.homedepot.com/p/PRO-SERIES-Titanium-Drill-Bit-Set-115-Piece-PS07535/203578697?cm_mmc=hd_email-_-B-BR2-_-20181127_RTGSMART_3237992-_-BRT_Product_Hero_CTA_1&et_rid=41384091
Save your money!!!!
.....Lou
Quote from: Dominick on November 27, 2018, 08:13:55 PM
Any opinions on this set? Dominick
https://www.homedepot.com/p/PRO-SERIES-Titanium-Drill-Bit-Set-115-Piece-PS07535/203578697?cm_mmc=hd_email-_-B-BR2-_-20181127_RTGSMART_3237992-_-BRT_Product_Hero_CTA_1&et_rid=41384091
As Lou said, stay away. They arent good for anything but wood and plastic. Its not HSS, so they will easily lose their temper drilling metal, and then they wont hold an edge.
Quote from: STRIPER LOU on November 27, 2018, 08:17:26 PM
Save your money!!!!
.....Lou
Okay Lou how about a recommendation that won't break the bank. Dominick
Dominick: You get better bits 1-5 at a time. Don't get all excited for bargain bits. I assume you don't have a machine shop, were you need a bunch of drills to do production work. So get a few at a time.
Joe
There's a lot of good stuff out there. Stay away from the imported junk. Its worthless!
HSS is a minimum, cobalt, is better, especially if your drilling SS. Stubbies or screw machine length are good especially if your using smaller diameters, less flex.
The tin coat is not absolutely necessary but it does add a bit of lubricity to the bit.
I like good old fashion Cleveland HSS or Cleveland cobalt. I have fractional, letter size, number drills, and metric both in HSS and cobalt that are at least 25/30 yrs old and got used just about every day when I was at work. I think I've gotten my moneys worth out of them. If your not using a drill press and in a corded electric drill or a cordless, HSS is adequate.
For a Cleveland 29pc set, if you look around enough, you might find them in and around the neighborhood of seventy five to a hundred bucks or so. They are not cheap!
Home Depot/Lowes stuff like Black & Decker, Skill, Irwin are not great, ... probably Irwin getting the nod for the bunch, but none will compare to the Cleveland.
There's a bunch of other stuff out there that's good too, .... I stuck with Cleveland as that's what most of the shops used, they've been around for ever and I've never had any problems problems.
If I should see a good deal on a set, Ill let you know.
.................Lou
Quote from: Dominick on November 27, 2018, 11:09:46 PM
Quote from: STRIPER LOU on November 27, 2018, 08:17:26 PM
Save your money!!!!
.....Lou
Okay Lou how about a recommendation that won't break the bank. Dominick
You have more money than Rockafellow and I wish you another 100 year. Even so, you still wont have enough time to spend it all ::)
Get yourself a good set!!! :-*
By the way, most stuff mentioned on here lately, if you look close enough it is manufactured in China. But if the quality is good, that doesn't really matter, does it?
Sal
Quote from: Reel 224 on November 28, 2018, 12:25:17 AM
Dominick: You get better bits 1-5 at a time. Don't get all excited for bargain bits. I assume you don't have a machine shop, were you need a bunch of drills to do production work. So get a few at a time.
Joe
That is probably what I will do. I guess I have to actually go to a store. You remember those? Right? Big boxes. Dominick
I hate to say it but it seems like that. After all that said. Look at GM dropping all those car models, It's a dam shame....................Joe
Quote from: Alto Mare on November 28, 2018, 12:49:40 AM
Quote from: Dominick on November 27, 2018, 11:09:46 PM
Quote from: STRIPER LOU on November 27, 2018, 08:17:26 PM
Save your money!!!!
.....Lou
Okay Lou how about a recommendation that won't break the bank. Dominick
By the way, most stuff mentioned on here lately, if you look close enough it is manufactured in China. But if the quality is good, that doesn't really matter, does it?
Sal
Some stuff more so than others. A brand known for quality will have better QC for their China made parts than what youll find in the bargain bin at harbor freight.
Something Ive noticed about many things made in China especially, is you have a handful of companies that make parts that are sold by many different companies, and many different price points. Sometimes its as simple as a design being made in one factory, with different resellers getting different grades or levels of QC. The best ones will go to the premium brands, and others will pick up the lower grades to sell for cheaper(or not sometimes).
The international companies that either have their own factories, or have direct oversight of the factory building their parts generally have better than average quality, for instance Shimano, Daiwa, Penn, etc.
I buy individual sizes for what I need from www.mcmaster.com Most are only a few bucks a piece, even for HSS or cobalt. Id just buy the specific sizes you need. Youre going to be buying a lot of extra bits you wont use if you get a big set.
Quote from: Three se7ens on November 28, 2018, 04:29:52 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on November 28, 2018, 12:49:40 AM
Quote from: Dominick on November 27, 2018, 11:09:46 PM
Quote from: STRIPER LOU on November 27, 2018, 08:17:26 PM
Save your money!!!!
.....Lou
Okay Lou how about a recommendation that won't break the bank. Dominick
By the way, most stuff mentioned on here lately, if you look close enough it is manufactured in China. But if the quality is good, that doesn't really matter, does it?
Sal
Some stuff more so than others. A brand known for quality will have better QC for their China made parts than what youll find in the bargain bin at harbor freight.
Something Ive noticed about many things made in China especially, is you have a handful of companies that make parts that are sold by many different companies, and many different price points. Sometimes its as simple as a design being made in one factory, with different resellers getting different grades or levels of QC. The best ones will go to the premium brands, and others will pick up the lower grades to sell for cheaper(or not sometimes).
The international companies that either have their own factories, or have direct oversight of the factory building their parts generally have better than average quality, for instance Shimano, Daiwa, Penn, etc.
I buy individual sizes for what I need from www.mcmaster.com Most are only a few bucks a piece, even for HSS or cobalt. Id just buy the specific sizes you need. Youre going to be buying a lot of extra bits you wont use if you get a big set.
!00% agree. Because I do the same ;D ;D...................Joe
Quote from: Reel 224 on November 28, 2018, 04:35:48 AM
Quote from: Three se7ens on November 28, 2018, 04:29:52 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on November 28, 2018, 12:49:40 AM
Quote from: Dominick on November 27, 2018, 11:09:46 PM
Quote from: STRIPER LOU on November 27, 2018, 08:17:26 PM
Save your money!!!!
.....Lou
Okay Lou how about a recommendation that won't break the bank. Dominick
By the way, most stuff mentioned on here lately, if you look close enough it is manufactured in China. But if the quality is good, that doesn't really matter, does it?
Sal
Some stuff more so than others. A brand known for quality will have better QC for their China made parts than what youll find in the bargain bin at harbor freight.
Something Ive noticed about many things made in China especially, is you have a handful of companies that make parts that are sold by many different companies, and many different price points. Sometimes its as simple as a design being made in one factory, with different resellers getting different grades or levels of QC. The best ones will go to the premium brands, and others will pick up the lower grades to sell for cheaper(or not sometimes).
The international companies that either have their own factories, or have direct oversight of the factory building their parts generally have better than average quality, for instance Shimano, Daiwa, Penn, etc.
I buy individual sizes for what I need from www.mcmaster.com Most are only a few bucks a piece, even for HSS or cobalt. Id just buy the specific sizes you need. Youre going to be buying a lot of extra bits you wont use if you get a big set.
!00% agree. Because I do the same ;D ;D...................Joe
So, you agree 0% Joe ;D
I miss all of the industrial hardware supply stores we used to have in NE Philadelphia.
Sal; Your confusing me ??? ;D. My brain is screwed up enough without you help ;) ;D ;D........................Joe
Thanks for all the information on reel bits guys. It really cleared up a lot of misconceptions I had from the past. The most obvious is the benefits of using stubby bits due to less flex.
Is there such a thing as a heavy duty stainless/aluminum cutting brad point tip? I use the brad points on fiberglass and 1/2" plate aluminum boat transoms when drilling for outboard motor brackets and I want to make sure the bit doesn't walk. I start off with the brad point and once the hole is deep enough I switch to a cobalt regular bit to complete the process.
Frank
Frank: I would use a Center drill first, there various sizes for drills.....................Joe
Thanks Joe!
Frank
Centre punch then hss centre drill (stubby no flex thing) to start the hole. Then Hss (Co) for stainless or plain Hss for Aluminium/Brass/Mild steel. I only use brad points (carbon steel) on wood.
Carbide tipped bits work on pretty much anything but they are not particularly accurate and can wander - ok for masonry though.
For dimensional accuracy (tapping or bearing fit) I use drill bits complying with DIN338 RN - more expensive but if it needs to be accurate so be it.
Quote from: Reel 224 on November 28, 2018, 06:53:14 PM
Frank: I would use a Center drill first, there various sizes for drills.....................Joe
Never knew they existed Joe. Thanks again.
Frank
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on November 28, 2018, 07:04:49 PM
Centre punch then hss centre drill (stubby no flex thing) to start the hole. Then Hss (Co) for stainless or plain Hss for Aluminium/Brass/Mild steel. I only use brad points (carbon steel) on wood.
Carbide tipped bits work on pretty much anything but they are not particularly accurate and can wander - ok for masonry though.
For dimensional accuracy (tapping or bearing fit) I use drill bits complying with DIN338 RN - more expensive but if it needs to be accurate so be it.
Thank you. Saving all this info in my Alan Tani special folder.
Quote from: Frank on November 28, 2018, 06:46:32 PM
Thanks for all the information on reel bits guys. It really cleared up a lot of misconceptions I had from the past. The most obvious is the benefits of using stubby bits due to less flex.
Is there such a thing as a heavy duty stainless/aluminum cutting brad point tip? I use the brad points on fiberglass and 1/2" plate aluminum boat transoms when drilling for outboard motor brackets and I want to make sure the bit doesn't walk. I start off with the brad point and once the hole is deep enough I switch to a cobalt regular bit to complete the process.
Frank
Brad tip bits are used in wood and composites to minimize fraying on the back side of the hole. That is not an issue with metal, but that fine, sharp point would be subjected to heavy wear in metals.
Center drills arent actually designed for starting holes, they are for putting in a tapered hole to use with lathe centers. Now, they work well because they are very stiff and rigid, but that wasnt their original purpose. The actual drills for starting/marking holes are more commonly referred to as spotting drills. https://www.mcmaster.com/spotting-drills Not a lot of use outside a machine shop, and even that is on the down swing with modern high performance drill bits.
Unless you need the long length, go with a screw machine style bit instead of the normal jobbers length. Generally, you will not need to center drill a screw machine length bit, but almost certainly will for a jobbers length bit.
Quote from: Three se7ens on November 29, 2018, 12:35:36 AM
Quote from: Frank on November 28, 2018, 06:46:32 PM
Thanks for all the information on reel bits guys. It really cleared up a lot of misconceptions I had from the past. The most obvious is the benefits of using stubby bits due to less flex.
Is there such a thing as a heavy duty stainless/aluminum cutting brad point tip? I use the brad points on fiberglass and 1/2" plate aluminum boat transoms when drilling for outboard motor brackets and I want to make sure the bit doesn't walk. I start off with the brad point and once the hole is deep enough I switch to a cobalt regular bit to complete the process.
Frank
Brad tip bits are used in wood and composites to minimize fraying on the back side of the hole. That is not an issue with metal, but that fine, sharp point would be subjected to heavy wear in metals.
Center drills arent actually designed for starting holes, they are for putting in a tapered hole to use with lathe centers. Now, they work well because they are very stiff and rigid, but that wasnt their original purpose. The actual drills for starting/marking holes are more commonly referred to as spotting drills. https://www.mcmaster.com/spotting-drills Not a lot of use outside a machine shop, and even that is on the down swing with modern high performance drill bits.
Unless you need the long length, go with a screw machine style bit instead of the normal jobbers length. Generally, you will not need to center drill a screw machine length bit, but almost certainly will for a jobbers length bit.
Thanks so much for taking the time to post that info.
Best
Frank
Quote from: Frank on November 29, 2018, 02:38:03 AM
Quote from: Three se7ens on November 29, 2018, 12:35:36 AM
Quote from: Frank on November 28, 2018, 06:46:32 PM
Thanks for all the information on reel bits guys. It really cleared up a lot of misconceptions I had from the past. The most obvious is the benefits of using stubby bits due to less flex.
Is there such a thing as a heavy duty stainless/aluminum cutting brad point tip? I use the brad points on fiberglass and 1/2" plate aluminum boat transoms when drilling for outboard motor brackets and I want to make sure the bit doesn't walk. I start off with the brad point and once the hole is deep enough I switch to a cobalt regular bit to complete the process.
Frank
Brad tip bits are used in wood and composites to minimize fraying on the back side of the hole. That is not an issue with metal, but that fine, sharp point would be subjected to heavy wear in metals.
Center drills arent actually designed for starting holes, they are for putting in a tapered hole to use with lathe centers. Now, they work well because they are very stiff and rigid, but that wasnt their original purpose. The actual drills for starting/marking holes are more commonly referred to as spotting drills. https://www.mcmaster.com/spotting-drills Not a lot of use outside a machine shop, and even that is on the down swing with modern high performance drill bits.
Unless you need the long length, go with a screw machine style bit instead of the normal jobbers length. Generally, you will not need to center drill a screw machine length bit, but almost certainly will for a jobbers length bit.
Thanks so much for taking the time to post that info.
Best
Frank
Frank: Adam is one of those guys that will guide you in the rite direction, I hadn't thought of the spotting bit.........................Joe
I ordered a bunch from Mc Masters Carr as Master Sal suggested. Thanks all for your responses. Dominick
Quote from: Dominick on November 29, 2018, 03:47:24 AM
I ordered a bunch from Mc Masters Carr as Master Sal suggested. Thanks all for your responses. Dominick
I see Sal can spend your money very well ;D ;D ;D............................Joe
Yep, they were not cheap, but at my age my kids will have to deal with them. Dominick
Gee Wizz, you good people really look after me, I ask a simple question about drill bits & get 66 replies, so now I know a bit about drill bits, what is the best vice or clamp to hold the part that you wish to drill, especially when your trying to drill into a thin piece of rod, I have a good drill press for the bit, I guess this is where a lathe comes in handy, but cant afford a lathe, cheers Don.
Quote from: Donnyboat on November 30, 2018, 03:41:33 AM
Gee Wizz, you good people really look after me, I ask a simple question about drill bits & get 66 replies, so now I know a bit about drill bits, what is the best vice or clamp to hold the part that you wish to drill, especially when your trying to drill into a thin piece of rod, I have a good drill press for the bit, I guess this is where a lathe comes in handy, but cant afford a lathe, cheers Don.
A V block would be the thing you need, they make them for drilling tubing.https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2186&category=
Joe
Thanks Joe, thats one good idea, but I was talking of standing a piece of rod vertical, & drilling down the centre of the rod, thanks again, cheers Don.
Quote from: Donnyboat on November 30, 2018, 03:36:35 PM
Thanks Joe, thats one good idea, but I was talking of standing a piece of rod vertical, & drilling down the centre of the rod, thanks again, cheers Don.
How deep are you going, and what ID are to trying to achieve? Joe
Thanks Joe, ? to both questions, my drill press, clamp, does not have any provition, to stand any thing vertical, that can be succured to have it stand straight up & not move with any pressure on it, cheers Don.
Hi Donny,
Can you rotate the table out of the way on your drill press and drill off the base plate for extra height?
I do it here all the time with long stuff. it might be easier if we knew what you had. Joe's suggestion with the V block is a good one and can even be used along with a vise for simple clamping. I have a universal block that I built probably 40 years ago and still use it today.
If there's any interest, I can post a picture.
Regard's ....................Lou
Thanks Lou & Joe, your both sticking with me, witch is great, Lou the drill stand & press that I have, is a Borum 16 speed with A 5/8 or 16mm chuck, yes the table can be pivoted both ways, right out of the way if necessary, also the clamp that I am using is 5 inches, or 123 mm wide, I am thinking of maybe closing the clamp right up, then drilling a small hole, down through the centre, then Veeing it out, that should hold a piece of rod, verticle, I wish I could post pictures, but have tried many times, with know luck, Joe Decker was kind enough to make up a video for me @ one stage, I am using windows 10 micro soft computer with google chrome & so on, but when I try step by step as Joe & Josa 1, have explained, the computer just does not follow the com,cheers for now Don.
Quote from: Three se7ens on November 23, 2018, 05:38:35 AM
Avoid carbon steel drill bits unless you are drilling wood. For everything else, get HSS or cobalt. Carbon steel will lose its temper first time it gets too hot, and it will never hold an edge after, even with sharpening. HSS will hold its temper through cherry red heat, and they are still somewhat flexible/forgiving. Cobalt is harder and holds an edge better, but is more brittle. Cobalt generally works better in stainless and other tough alloys, but HSS is more forgiving.
Stainless (and titanium, and a number of other metals) work harden. So if you are drilling without making chips, you are only making the material harder. The name of the game here is slow and heavy pressure. Keep in mind, this is all relative. A 1/4" drill but still needs to run faster, and with less pressure than a 1" drill bit.
I could get complicated with speed/feed charts like machine shops use, but its not necessary. Shops need to make money, and weigh productivity vs tool life. For everyone else, its usually better just to go slower and get far longer tool life. So go slow enough and heavy enough to get a good, consistent chip from the drill. That will get you close enough for most.
I have a set of Cobalts I bought when I was stationed in Ital y in 1987, damn things are still going strong. I also have a set of Carburetor fine wire drill bits. These are soft, but great for cleaning out small holes. They are used in a pin vice, and turned slowly. they can do things when you need that fine to very fine cleaning tip. Also pipe cleaners can be a godsend for working on reels.
I have a set of Cobalts I bought when I was stationed in Ital y in 1987, damn things are still going strong.
Such moments - facts, make me proud of humanity - society.