Hi,
Just finish my 3 days 2 nights trip fishing. Just want to know how to clean the reel? Wash with clean water, do I still need to oil anything like reel handle knob, line roller etc etc....
I did study Mr Alan Hawk writing, he mention just wash with clean water is sufficient enough to keep the reel clean without any oiling?
Thanks for any info I can gather here from others Saltiga users.
I always oil knob and roller after washdown. Washdown actually may push salt into these places, experience shows, and i also wipe down all surfaces (not line) with penn reel cleaner or some spray oil on a rag- corrosion X, ballistol, WD-40 (actually stands for water displacement) or whatever. Also important- check your drag washers. I imagine Saltiga has carbon drags- if so they should be greased with Cals or shimano drag grease. either way, tighten drag knob before you rinse to avoid pushing salts into the washer well, which would look nice and clean to the eye, but NOT when you investigate why your drag froze....back off the knob after rinse and wipe to keep from compressing the stack. it took three times as long to write this as it actually takes to do it, and that nice piece of equipment may last decades with proper cleaning and lube. I'm pretty diligent about this, yet still find stiff handle knobs on occasion.
John
Is this the first time you've used it?
It's a Saltiga. It doesn't need fettling every second time it goes out.
Rinse it really really well to remove salt, maybe wipe down with a soft cloth when you're done, give it a good shake and a spin.
Yes, this is first time using it. Will Cal's grease on the washer damage any mag-sealed areas?
So far I only wash with soft running water, dry with cloth, open drag clicker and handle knob on the table and leave them dry.
No idea about mag seals. A Daiwa guy will need to answer that.
The idea of "mag sealed" bearings is that you supposedly don't need to service them. The ferromagnetic fluid they use as a lubricant is supposed to prevent anything from getting in. And not only that... You can't service them. Daiwa doesn't sell the mag fluid so if you clean your bearings, you paid a ton of money for what is now normal bearings.
Unless you dunked it, buried it in sand, or it got hit by a gnarly rogue wave, odds are a simple rinse is sufficient.
Hi Jason,
Got it, thanks. I never get my reel splash by any rogue wave or buried in san, how long normally do i need to get the reel in for service?
Quote from: Pierce on December 03, 2021, 12:20:24 AM
Hi Jason,
Got it, thanks. I never get my reel splash by any rogue wave or buried in san, how long normally do i need to get the reel in for service?
Once a year or if it stops being smooth.
Quote from: JasonGotaPenn on December 01, 2021, 03:45:13 PM
The idea of "mag sealed" bearings is that you supposedly don't need to service them. The ferromagnetic fluid they use as a lubricant is supposed to prevent anything from getting in. And not only that... You can't service them. Daiwa doesn't sell the mag fluid so if you clean your bearings, you paid a ton of money for what is now normal bearings.
Unless you dunked it, buried it in sand, or it got hit by a gnarly rogue wave, odds are a simple rinse is sufficient.
You can service them, I have been doing it since 2015 when I worked out that Daiwa was using Ferrotec fluids (Globeride International who owns Daiwa also has a significant holding in Ferrotec: Q.E.D.). In fact, the APG L11 ester based oil that I selected was actually more durable than the (I believe hydrocarbon based, due to reported evaporation of the Magoil at Daiwa service centres) original Magoil, and Ferrotec have previously advised another guy (off here I think) that the APG L11 is nearly identical to the oil used for a similar purpose by an un-named fishing reel manufacturer. From my experience servicing these, it seems that the formula changed for the '13 Certates onwards. Anyway, some of the bearings were simply standard bearings with magnetic washers as the sideplates; they were put together like this in a few models. No problem there, simply wash out, grease and reassemble the bearing and plates then reintroduce the fluid in situ. Then they went with a unitary brg that has the plates integral; these were $60 throwaway bearings. Saltiga LRBs, for example, were this design and Daiwa "thoughtfully" made them 5x9x4mm (standard brg is 5x9x3mm). I sourced some 5x9x1mm ss shims and showed Mr. Daiwa parts the middle social digit. Total replacement $$ now is 1/10th of genuine. If you have a Big #### magnet stack you can sometimes coax the magnets off the newer brgs so that they can be cleaned, but don't try and pry them out as they shatter like normal magnets.
Ferrotec Mag fluid is waterproof, but you cannot use just any oil or solvent on it, you will probably wash away all the oil and surfactant and be left with, basically, a lump of rust. It is not a lifetime solution, but if you can keep the salt water out of the brg guts you can actually replenish the fluid, and a tech from Ferrotec actually opined that the mag fluid itself would be a satisfactory brg lube.
cheers
Steve
Quote from: ReelClean on December 03, 2021, 08:02:10 AM
Quote from: JasonGotaPenn on December 01, 2021, 03:45:13 PM
The idea of "mag sealed" bearings is that you supposedly don't need to service them. The ferromagnetic fluid they use as a lubricant is supposed to prevent anything from getting in. And not only that... You can't service them. Daiwa doesn't sell the mag fluid so if you clean your bearings, you paid a ton of money for what is now normal bearings.
Unless you dunked it, buried it in sand, or it got hit by a gnarly rogue wave, odds are a simple rinse is sufficient.
You can service them, I have been doing it since 2015 when I worked out that Daiwa was using Ferrotec fluids (Globeride International who owns Daiwa also has a significant holding in Ferrotec: Q.E.D.). In fact, the APG L11 ester based oil that I selected was actually more durable than the (I believe hydrocarbon based, due to reported evaporation of the Magoil at Daiwa service centres) original Magoil, and Ferrotec have previously advised another guy (off here I think) that the APG L11 is nearly identical to the oil used for a similar purpose by an un-named fishing reel manufacturer. From my experience servicing these, it seems that the formula changed for the '13 Certates onwards. Anyway, some of the bearings were simply standard bearings with magnetic washers as the sideplates; they were put together like this in a few models. No problem there, simply wash out, grease and reassemble the bearing and plates then reintroduce the fluid in situ. Then they went with a unitary brg that has the plates integral; these were $60 throwaway bearings. Saltiga LRBs, for example, were this design and Daiwa "thoughtfully" made them 5x9x4mm (standard brg is 5x9x3mm). I sourced some 5x9x1mm ss shims and showed Mr. Daiwa parts the middle social digit. Total replacement $$ now is 1/10th of genuine. If you have a Big #### magnet stack you can sometimes coax the magnets off the newer brgs so that they can be cleaned, but don't try and pry them out as they shatter like normal magnets.
Ferrotec Mag fluid is waterproof, but you cannot use just any oil or solvent on it, you will probably wash away all the oil and surfactant and be left with, basically, a lump of rust. It is not a lifetime solution, but if you can keep the salt water out of the brg guts you can actually replenish the fluid, and a tech from Ferrotec actually opined that the mag fluid itself would be a satisfactory brg lube.
cheers
Steve
Thank you for the clarification. Lot of good info there.
Nice, I look at the Ferrotec fluids APG L-11. What make chose L11 instad of the other L's series?
Quote from: Pierce on December 11, 2021, 05:36:52 AM
Nice, I look at the Ferrotec fluids APG L-11. What make chose L11 instad of the other L's series?
Hey,
Synthetic ester base, not too high viscosity, high colloidal. It's made to stick around inside a woofer voice coil gap, so I figured it should handle bearing rotation.
cheers
Steve