This was one of the first Quick reels that I picked up a few months ago. I believe this is a 1956 -1958 model? Serial Number is: 137191 with Made In Germany on the foot. Learning from Fred, this is the predecessor to the 330. Wanted to show my tear down on this reel and then after its cleaned up, my reassembly. Fred, if you're watching...I think I am missing one or two parts on this one. If you look in the pictures below you can see the little black "dot" that is missing from the bail arm?
There is a fiber type washer right under the spool that sits on the drive shaft.
Remove the three small screws from the bottom of the spool and the spool comes apart. Check out the cork arbor, pretty cool. Not sure on this but it appears to me that maybe this cork arbor might have something to do with working as a drag? The metal washer in the pic has an inside "ear" on it that engages a groove on the spool shaft. I don't see any other drag materials in the spool...maybe that is all there is?
Had a tough time punching out the handle pin. I had to use some Rem Oil to penetrate in there to help it out. The 3/32" seemed a tad too big so I used the 1/16" punch. I also noticed on this handle pin that one end has a rounded head on it. I decided to try out using my Black and Decker Workmate hobby vise that I picked up a few years ago at a thrift store for $10. It does a pretty good job of holding the reel for me while knocking out the handle pin. I will use it later on to separate the bearing from the worm gear.
After getting the pin out and removing the handle, there is a C clip and a brass washer to remove. Now time to break into the inside and the fun part!
Remove the three screws on the handle side and don't forget the one at the bottom. Yeap, has that good 'ol dark brown "beeswax" from the factory. Apparently this stuff has preserved the parts in these reels for decades...wonder if the German's actually "forethought" the grease becoming a preservative instead of a lubricant at some point.
Take the plate off on the non-drive side, three more screws and then another smaller screw at the bottom. These two screws at the bottom are not quite as long as the others.
Go ahead and remove the very small screw that attaches the oscillating arm to the drive shaft. On other models its just a pin that slides in. But on this one it threads in; an eyeglasses flat head is perfect for this task.
Now the Main Gear and the oscillating arm will come out. You can also slide out the Drive Shaft. The next task is to remove the oscillating arm from the Main Gear. There is a small C clip and a tiny brass washer behind the C clip. After removing the arm, there is another tiny brass washer behind it.
Remove the rotor nut using an extension and 1/2" socket. I do this with my little 1/4" drive ratchet. Under the rotor nut is a "wavy" washer and a metal washer with double ears.
Next up is the reel cup (bottom) that needs to be removed in order to get to the bearing assembly. The cup actually is the seal for the bearing as well. Remove the two small screws shown plus the little grayish cone shaped screw. Notice how "blocky" the heads are on these screws for when it comes time for reassembly. After removing the cup you will see the bearing.
Now just pull the bearing assembly out. It will be attached to the worm gear. I learned a little trick from Fred that if the bearing is stuck in its cup you can partially thread the rotor nut back on and use a pair of pliers to pry against the rotor nut and it will come out.
To separate the bearing from the worm gear, I go back to my handy dandy Black & Decker hobby vise and loosely clamp a couple sticks of 2x2 in with the bearing/worm assembly in the middle. Using a soft blow hammer or Non-marring hammer begin tapping on the TOP of the worm gear while the bearing loosely rests on top of the two pieces of wood. It will take a several blows and it will separate. Upon reassembly, you can see that the bearing seats against a shoulder, so just tap it down until it stops moving and you know it is seated correctly.
Don't forget the Anti-Reverse ratchet/spring assembly. I used a tiny 5/32" socket to loosen the ratchet pin. I didn't even need to use a driver, just used my fingers. The pin will drop from the hole; don't loose the spring!
Stay tuned for lube and reassembly soon!
Thanks for the tutorial!
Everything is in place -- the black bail cap is missing, as you mentioned -- I will send you a couple.
The cork arbor is just so that not so much mono needs to be used if not needed for conditions.
On a plastic spool -- it also helps with mono expansion when stored.
On these metal spools -- it just is a thrifty way to save line if not needed.
Few folks know the quality of these old Finessas -- probably because they are old fashioned -- and still cheap when found.
So they are not appreciated.
When one studies the engineering, strength points, materials, and function of these reels -- one is generally impressed.
Best,
Fred
Nice look at that old-timer. That was one of the nastier interior views of a spinning reel I've seen before you got at it.
Frank
Good work! Now I remember a couple differences between the 280/285 and the 330. The 330 has one of those stubborn snap rings on the pinion bearing. Also there are less screws in the housing.
Looking forward to reassembly.
Good job. When the bearing is stuck on the pinion I always use a small oak block as a buffer between the pinion and my hammer. The last thing I want to do is in any way mar those threads.
So, I went ahead and scrubbed after soaking for about 5 hours in Dollar Stores brand of Simple Green. And here is what all the internals look like now and the bail assembly. Ready for grease and reassembly. Except for, I lost the dang ratchet spring for the anti-reverse! Fred, can you send me a spring that slides onto the shaft for that ratcheting anti-reverse along with a couple of those black dots for the bail arm?! If you look close in the top picture you can tell that there is some rust all ready starting to form on the worm gear...so the bottom pic is after I used 0000 steel wool on all of those parts and burnished the inside of the worm gear. I then put a light coat of Rem Oil on everything in the pic. Edit: Found the spring on my kitchen floor ::)
Will do on the spring & caps --
Also, a hint -- good to do another rinse of any parts that steel wool were used on -- and allowed to dry before lubing.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: Beachmaster on January 19, 2020, 11:35:39 PM
Don't forget the Anti-Reverse ratchet/spring assembly. I used a tiny 5/32" socket to loosen the ratchet pin. I didn't even need to use a driver, just used my fingers. The pin will drop from the hole; don't loose the spring!
Stay tuned for lube and reassembly soon!
I have noticed some of the early 280 reels have a bent ratchet pin that has a round ball head on it. Would be interesting to see how it screws in and what it screws into.
Fantastic!
I've got a few of the 280's now, this will be a great help when I dig onto them.
Hi Beachmaster
You did a great job on that 280. I found the drag on the 280 quite confusing and could not figure why the little one eared washer that sits on the spool shaft has to run on a metal surface of the spool???
One thing I did find to improve this drag is to remove the spool and spool shaft and replace them with a spool shaft from a 285 and a spool from a 285 or 330. They fit right in.
This will improve the 280 by a mile!
Greg
Quote from: basto on March 16, 2020, 11:15:43 PM
Hi Beachmaster
You did a great job on that 280. I found the drag on the 280 quite confusing and could not figure why the little one eared washer that sits on the spool shaft has to run on a metal surface of the spool???
One thing I did find to improve this drag is to remove the spool and spool shaft and replace them with a spool shaft from a 285 and a spool from a 285 or 330. They fit right in.
This will improve the 280 by a mile!
Greg
Thanks Basto, I will check that out. I haven't had time to do much; my wife decided to divorce me after 16 1/2 years of marriage.