Just bought a Penn 112H and the drag was stuck. Trying to disassemble and got stuck. Tried finding a tutorial on here and youtube but could only find something for assembly. Stuck here. Thanks for any help.
(http://i.imgur.com/a5BD5r9.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/k8QU0QT.jpg)
Sorry about the picture size, not sure how to make them smaller. Can't get that brass piece off to get to the drag.
If you are adverse to taking the bridge assembly off, maybe try a little penetrating oil, a little well-placed heat on the ring, and a few solid taps upside down.
Completely lost, fist time I have ever opened up a Penn. Isn't the drag somewhere behind that brass piece? Is the brass piece the bridge?
Hi Southland --
First, use an old pocket knife to remove the chrome ring that goes around the perimeter of the inside of the side plate -- it will pop off easily enough, if done carefully in a few spots.
These side plates are strong enough -- but made out of a material called bakelite -- which can be a little brittle.
Just cover the brass gear sleeve protruding from the handle side of the plate with a piece of wood.
Wad up a heavy old towel underneath the plate so there is a soft surface so the plate will not break on a hard surface -- when you tap the wood firmly with a hammer.
Just caked on grease holding it in place -- it will pop right out.
Pry off the main gear, remove the drag washers, under gear washer, separate the washers. There will likely be 3 fiber, and 3 metal, plus a spring washer, and spacer sleeve.
This reel is so caked up with dried old grease -- it will need a good cleaning of all parts inside and outside.
Make sure you punch out the gear sleeve keeper pin -- clean up everything like new.
To clean and burnish the inside of the brass gear sleeve -- just use an electric drill, 1/8" bit, wind "0000" steel wool around the bit, run it through the post hole for about 4 minutes -- it will be as clean as possible at that point.
After cleaning up everything to your satisfaction -- soak all again to remove any bits of steel wool, rust bits, cleaning materials, etc. -- dry and reassemble with oil and grease.
Install new CF drags will Cal's Drag Grease -- new metal washers, new under gear Delrin washer.
These are very good reels -- and even though they may look a little rough cosmetically -- they will clean up and operate perfectly.
If you get stuck -- just let us know -- great learning experience for everyone!
Best,
Fred
Thanks Tightlines and Fred. Looks like a pin in the shaft of this piece. Do I remove the pin before removing the gear? Are the drag washers inside the gear, does just the outer part of the gear remove? Trying to figure it out so I don't break it.
(http://i.imgur.com/JMcuMQ4.jpg)
Hi Southland --
Generally, we just remove the main gear, pop out the drag stack -- in this case, due to the corrosion, the bridge post that the gear sleeve rides on may be bent by trying to remove the gear after prying at an odd angle.
Assuming this assembly turns -- and is not rusted solid -- here is what I would do:
If the gear will lift up easily (doubtful in this case) -- it will slide over the pin.
If it will not slide off easily -- remove the pin with the gear still attached -- then it is easier to work on getting the drags out and into the garbage can.
Then use a 1/16" pin punch and hammer to punch out the pin -- make sure the post and sleeve are supported with wood so no tweaking occurs.
After you have the sleeve, pin, main gear, all drags removed, you can start on the process to see if the assembly is salvageable.
You will need to soak the metal parts in a rust remover, mineral spirits, or the like overnight. Then you will start on the rust with a wire wheel attached to a Dremel or drill.
Use eyeguard safety glasses.
Likely, you will also need emery cloth, toothbrushes, more soaking, and some elbow grease to get everything clean and shiny.
The gear will have pits in the metal surface when done that may or may not affect the operation -- should work OK -- just a little noisy. Penn or Yamaha Marine Grease will be your best friend here, as you reassemble.
Make sure the bridge post the sleeve rides on is not tweaked, or loose. If it is, you need a new bridge.
For sure, You will need 3 new CF drag washers, 3 new SS drag washers, 1 new spring washer, 1 Delrin under gear washer.
Use synthetic oil on the post/sleeve assembly, Yamaha or Penn Marine grease on the gear mating teeth surfaces, and Cal's drag grease on the drag stack. Do not worry about getting too much Cal's grease on the drags -- whatever is not needed, will be forced out -- and will help to lube the gears.
This is what we call a decision reel -- it has been used hard, likely in the salt, and the only service it received was to insert more grease into the grease ports. It has been allowed to corrode -- and likely other parts of the reel are in a similar condition.
However, as a testament to the durability of these old Penns -- it will work when you are done with the job.
It will not win any beauty contests -- but it will catch fish.
And, if you have the patience -- you will learn much.
Even though your pics are too big -- they are very clear -- thanks...
Let us know how we can help further.
Best,
Fred
Yep, a "decision reel" one that will take some time to set right and only the owner can decide if it is worth it.
Most here would say yes, as the time is what they have to spend :). Nothing beats returning a "basket case" to prime working order.
I will say that as Fred has mentioned, most of the parts will likely be recoverable, with time and effort and some proper penetrating oils and grease.
What few parts that may need to be replaced are very inexpensive...you will probably spend more getting the lubes you need.
1. Corrosion-x will lube and strip the rust from everything with a little elbow grease and tincture of time. This plus a toothbrush will work wonders.
2. Cal's drag grease for the drag washers.
3. Penn Grease for the gears (or any Marine Bearing Grease) and general lube.
Any questions you have many here will happily answer as long as you keep posting pictures of your progress for our viewing pleasure :).
Re-size the pictures by changing the settings on your camera, but yes, they are very clear. :)
I've got to get a 112 basket case myself to add to the collection and fiddle with...
Southland I don't know where you are located. If you are of a mind to send the reel to me in a bag I like the challenge to get it back in working order. I will finish the reel, photograph it and send it back to you. Dominick
Dominick, I will probably take you up on that on another reel I have a problem with, going to buy a few more of these old Penns and sure I will run into more problems.
The gear came off pretty easy, a few twists with a screwdriver tip. There was some resistance but not that bad. Looks like 3 metal washers and 3 plastic(or whatever it is), and one that might be leather. Hope that's all there should be. It does look kind of bad in the pictures from all the nastiness but everything seems to be in good shape and not worn much at all.
Where is the best place to buy the drags washers and do I need anything else besides those 7 washers, assuming the metal ones need to be replaced to. A part number might be helpful since you guys see what the inside looks like. It's my understanding that drags have changed over the years on the same model reel. Thanks for all the help men. Sorry I have to respond so late, work evening, Georgia.
(http://i.imgur.com/tsYzSHH.jpg)
Here is what you need, Southland --
These are available from Mo at Scott's -- or Dawn at Smooth Drag.
Both are super quick and reliable -- they are on our site as Vendors -- and both do a great job.
Dawn carries drags, tools, lubricants, bearings and other items.
Mo carries a full line of Penn factory parts.
You need some Cal's drag grease, Yamaha or Penn Marine grease, and some syn oil like 321, CorrosionX, or similar.
That sleeve still needs to come off of the bridge by punching out the pin. Guarantee it is running stiff and likely some corroding.
That gear must be cleaned up really well -- along with the smaller pinion. Hope it is not rusted to the spool end?
Show us some pics of all of the reel parts -- then you can place an order for everything you need at one time -- saves postage.
We can help you by looking at your complete pics of all parts at one time.
If you need too much -- and it becomes too expensive to purchase -- we can likely help you out with some used parts.
In the meantime -- since you will be spending some money for the grease and oil -- if you would PM me your name and mailing address -- I would send you these new parts in tomorrows mail at N/C to get you started.
To do this reel right -- the first step is to determine what parts are needed after cleaning up the reel really well.
This is all very doable -- we just want to give you wise, accurate advice that makes sense.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/1-100_3583_zpscbrr7f4t.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/1-100_3583_zpscbrr7f4t.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/2-100_3585_zpsz4eqaf43.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/2-100_3585_zpsz4eqaf43.jpg.html)
Here are pictures of the rest of the reel. Everything seemed to be working properly except for the drag before I took it apart.
(http://i.imgur.com/wxpiSar.jpg%5B/img%3Cbr%20/%3E%5Bimg%5D%20http://i.imgur.com/kWfQvyk.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/aIesFrD.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/nhZuiUb.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/kpQ6MBe.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/lD98HNo.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/IM5nR6T.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/TWsHi3b.jpg)
Forgot, I'm going to have to get a small punch to get the bridge pin out. Have several punches but none that small. Looks like there are two pins in there, one near the threads on the shaft and one on the end where the bridge is, do both have to be removed.
There is only one pin...near the threads you can use a small nail if you don't have the right size punch. The other is an oiler port that is likely dirty.
OK, thanks on the pin location. Also didn't have a nail that small, close but a little bigger.
Hi Southland,
I believe that you can change the size of the pictures by changing the resolution on the camera. I use the lowest resolution for reel pictures and seems to work fine. Anyway, you might give it a try and see what happens.
josa1
Just use Photobucket --
It automatically resizes when posting -- and it is free and easy.
Best,
Fred
Removing the pin in insert. I did this last weekend for the first time. It uses a 1/16 pin punch. I had a short piece of 2x4 from a project. About 4". I drilled a 1/4 inch hole about an inch deep in the end of the 2x4 approximately where the pin is when the insert is against the side of the 2x4. When I was ready to drive the pin out I just put the pin over the hole and tapped it out. The insert was fully supported by the 2x4 and the pin dropped into the hole and allowed me to turn over the 2x4 and let the pin fall in to my hand. I didn't have to crawl around on my hands and knees looking for it like I do for dog springs. Ken
My Main Man Harry K uses a 2x4. It makes it very simple instead of it rolling around.
Hey Daron I like it. I also like that plastic tube holding the drags in place. Dominick
I removed a pin today using a socket for the pin to fall into. Used a 1/16" pin Punch & Alan's Wrench to tap it out.
Mike
Thanks men, already did the 2x4 with hole trick last night. Ordered some Cal's Drag Grease, TSI 321, and Corrosion X today from Smoothdrag. Going to check the local Yamaha dealer for the Yamalube Marine Grease tomorrow. If they don't have it, will also order it. Fred is sending me some new drag washers, nice man.
Saw a trick on removing pins by Alan T in which he mounts the punch in a drill press and pushes pins out by lowering the drill, not turned on of course. Seems like a good idea and will keep everything straight. Will be the weekend before I can get to the store and buy a 1/16 punch
1/16" punches are prone to bending and breaking.
Go to Sears -- get a "Craftsman" 1/16" for about $4.
When it breaks -- and it will if you do enough reels -- just return it to Sears -- they just hand you a brand new one -- no questions asked.
Lifetime guarantee.
I am on my 5th one in 12 years -- only paid for one.
I always have two on hand -- so when one breaks -- I just continue with the other, then get a new one the next time I'm at Sears.
The 1/8" have never broken.
Washers and drags are packaged and on their way.
Best,
Fred
They closed our big Sears store a few years back. They do have a Sears Hometown Store here now but have never been inside. I do know they carry a lot of appliances, probably have tools also but not sure what type of selection they have.
Went up to the shop to put some penetrating oil on the bridge assembly. While up there I noticed a piece of wire small enough to work as a punch, maybe spring steel. Cut of a short piece about 3/4 inch long and held in place with some needle nose pliers. A couple of soft taps and the pin feel right out. Still haven't had time to go get a small punch. Now just need to clean everything up and wait on the oil, grease, and drag washers.
(http://i.imgur.com/feuId3e.jpg)
Post Office is saying Tuesday delivery on the washers -- but could be Monday -- sent First Class.
Best,
Fred