Easter greetings from the Netherlands.
It's been months since I've been able to see this board - something mysterious about the wonderful way the internet works put all sorts of SQL and HTML errors out but no board.
May be it wasn't just me, judging by the "Log on issues - FIXED !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" message at the top of the page.
Anyway, I'm back with a question about a 220N which has been my go to reel for carp float fishing for a year or so. It was always a little bit loose in the handle but only getting to play with another with no play at all made me think all may not be well. On taking it apart, removing the handle pin and main gear and looking into the bushing itself...I saw some pretty ugly gouges not matched by anything on the shaft of the main gear itself. They aren't new.
So a question for one of the gurus, possibly Fred. Are these bushings a replaceable part or should I look around for a nice tight 220N and keep this for parts?
Groeten,
Lorcan
PS picture is from deep in Dutch suburbia. Yes that's my bike leaning against the railing of a tramline bridge. This isn't clear mountain water and that's no trout, but they go like stink on light float tackle.
hopefully, fred oakes will respond. great picture and welcome back. yeah, the website had been a mess for quite a while, but hopefully it is all fixed now.
https://www.planetseafishing.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/dam-quick/dam-quick-110n-220n-330n-440n-550n-331n-441n.pdf
https://www.planetseafishing.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/dam-quick/dam-quick-110n-220n-330n-440n-550n-331n-441n-parts-list.pdf
# 73 is a complete housing and bushing . Fred will have the parts you need .
The bushings are replaceable in most of the DQ's —- but not all. I think I have bushings for most of the ones that are replaceable.
However...the bushings need to be pressed in exactly square.
Plus, pressed out carefully as to not gouge the aluminum frame. And they are a tight fit. Not easy for the average tinker-smith reeler to do.
I can send you a new frame with the new bushing from the factory. Which is the best way to go, and not that expensive.
Best, Fred
Just out of curiosity Fred, if a regular guy wanted to do this would a good route be to use a wood jig to hold the frame and an arbor press with a steel rod?
Steve
Yes, I use a 6 ton hydraulic bearing press —- which is over-kill.
But it is very controllable and positive.
I use a chunk of pine for a bottom frame support —- then a brass rod of the proper size or a socket.
These bushings seldom wear out —- but if they do —- the only remedy is new bushings or a new frame with bushings.
The other thing to remember —- on EVERY DQ I do, the 2 or 3 bushings and the inside of the worm-pinion get cleaned and then burnished to a bright brand new with a drill bit and "0000" steel wool. Then the axle shaft and the spool shaft get polished, as well as the rear pinion support bushing at the back inside of the frame. Many times, this is all that is needed.
It is the friction points that don't show —- that most reel techs never address —- that will either help any reel to operate like oil on glass —- or if not addressed, have friction areas that slow the reel.
Best, Fred
:) I just realized this morning that , part # 73 is the high speed version and # 38 are the low speed numbers .
Quote from: oldmanjoe on April 01, 2024, 01:02:11 PM:) I just realized this morning that , part # 73 is the high speed version and # 38 are the low speed numbers .
There are (7) reels of various sizes and purposes in the "N" series of reels —- which started production in Germany around 1974.
These are excellent reels.
The previous series of (7) reels had (3) high speed versions included —- 110, 221, 331. All (7) reels had reversible crank handles for right or left-handers.
The "N" series also had (3) high speed versions —- but they eliminated the 221, and added the 441N.
Also, only the 331N & 441N had reversible handles from right to left.
Best, Fred