I finally purchased a 1 Ton Arbor press. Went with the Dayton from Grainger.
http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/DAYTON-Press-4Z328
Paid less buying the only locally available one, then shipping out a cheaper model. Now I need to figure out what accessories I need for it.
Does anyone have any suggestions on a set of round flat dies to buy? I need 3 sets of dies for pressing cam housing through and out of bridges and sideplates, while supporting the relatively thin alum sideplate material, and For the 130s, I figure I need...
one with a 1 7/8" outter diameter (to press with) and a second with a 2 1/8" inner dismeter and at least 2 1/2 deep to support the outside of part being pressed. Then I will need the reverse (1 7/8" inner diameter/2 1/2 " deep, and 2-2 1/8" outter diameter (maybe use the same one?), to press the part back in place. I could actually get by with just 2 dies, since the bridge will work to support the side plate when pressing it back in place. I will need 2 similar, but slightly smaller sets for the 80 then 50/30 size reels as well.
I would also like to invest in a quality punch set for pressing out (or in) pins, frozen screws, bearings, and the like.
Thirdly, I would like to get a better quality punch/cutter set preferably with a lower support for punching/cutting Delron, Teflon, Carbon Fiber washers. Having one that can cut both outter and inner diameters would be ideal.
I apoligize if my machining terminology is off a bit, this is relatively new territory for me. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
That tool will come handy. Do not secure the handle, I like it to be movable so I could always set it at the correct angle.
Make sure you bolt the press to the bench, I tried it loose and it doesn't do, it will need to be bolted down. Also, you will need a 2' piece of pipe as for an extension, the handle that comes with the press is worthless.
Its a nice tool I'm enjoying mine, good luck with it.
I'm not a machinist but use my imagination. To press the bearing in, I placed the plate on a thick towel and used a piece of wood dowel of the same diameter as the bearing, pressing it in was a snap.Custom cutters will cost you from $100 to $150 each, but those would be top of the line, made by a machinist. Mayhew has individual cutters, I believe they're around $70 each.
I have a plastic cutting board in place of the round metal disc, those come handy when cutting washers, even better than wood.
Report back after you use it and let us know how you like it.
Just used it to press out a corroded bridge, by pressing lightly on the drive shaft bearings/bushings from the inside. I think I might end up making 2 custom jigs to support the side plates, and just use a hardened socket of the correct OD for loosing frozen bridge assemblies. I still want the correct size puches, and dies for pressing out/in cam housings when corrosion is really bad though. I think I might mount it to a solid piece of wood that I can clsmp to the benchtop to conserve space. I really need to build a smaller side workbench to mount the arbor and a drill press to, and have slots under it to store parts. I'm afraid that project will have to wait until after Ahi season, when buisness slows down though.
I also used my el cheapo punch set to cut a few laminated CF washers. This set had trouble fully punching the Delron, even after sharpening. Gonba need an extension, and would prefer a better cutting set, that does inner and outter cuts simultaneously. It worked pretty good on the CF though.
Any jigs you make, make sure you post it here so we could follow. ;)
John,
In regards to the hardened sockets; they are typically called "impact" sockets designed for heavy duty use. I started out buying "Snap On" brand and ended up with a Chinese set that performed very well. I used the Chinese exclusively at work (Diesel mechanic for Los Angeles bus system) daily when I was a mechanic for over 8 years. They may work out for you instead of a "costly" set of name brand.
FYI,
Leo
I'm with Sal on bolting down the press - unless you want a very heavy lump of metal falling on your foot :D. As regards small pin punches I just use an appropriately sized bolt/ machine screw. A combination of a small and large sockets for pressing out A/R bearings etc. For cutting delrin /acetal/ teflon and cf washers I use a set of these
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b521/Tiddlerbasher/P1010008%20Medium_zps1tcfh3r9.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/Tiddlerbasher/media/P1010008%20Medium_zps1tcfh3r9.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b521/Tiddlerbasher/P1010009%20Medium_zpstquimzib.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/Tiddlerbasher/media/P1010009%20Medium_zpstquimzib.jpg.html)
The punch heads simply screw onto the handle - which has a centering pin. Cut the outer diameter first - change to the small head - the centering pin can be aligned to the 'dent' in the washer. The handle has been designed to be wacked with a mallet.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b521/Tiddlerbasher/P1010010%20Medium_zpstu3j2cvc.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/Tiddlerbasher/media/P1010010%20Medium_zpstu3j2cvc.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b521/Tiddlerbasher/P1010013%20Medium_zpsc4pvxcpk.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/Tiddlerbasher/media/P1010013%20Medium_zpsc4pvxcpk.jpg.html)
I found it would frequently shatter the acetal/delrin washers - so I made an adapter for the press.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b521/Tiddlerbasher/P1010014%20Medium_zpsqumjnmbw.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/Tiddlerbasher/media/P1010014%20Medium_zpsqumjnmbw.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b521/Tiddlerbasher/P1010016%20Medium_zpsjm69ychi.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/Tiddlerbasher/media/P1010016%20Medium_zpsjm69ychi.jpg.html)
It is simply a length of 5/8" studding (depends on your punches) with 2 nuts (locked together). A centering pin was fitted by drilling the hole .1mm undersize. Then heating the stud in the oven (don't tell the wife ;D) dropping in the pin and allowing to cool. It is obviously important to get the length of the pin right and the position of the 2 nuts - but it wasn't difficult.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b521/Tiddlerbasher/P1010018%20Medium_zpsn0fszh5z.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/Tiddlerbasher/media/P1010018%20Medium_zpsn0fszh5z.jpg.html)
The proof of the pudding - delrin and teflon washers nicely centered.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b521/Tiddlerbasher/P1010019%20Medium_zpsuduzyfw3.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/Tiddlerbasher/media/P1010019%20Medium_zpsuduzyfw3.jpg.html)
cf/ teflon is the easiest to cut - it's just an easy pull on the bar. But delrin is tough - use an extension tube. I can just about cut 1mm delrin without the extension tube but it's an effort.
Chris, thanks for posting this, that handle could be hit with a mallet, that tells me its made from solid steel, am I right? If so, we could probably cut it lo length, so we wouldn't have to make the adopter, what do you think?
You must be a machinist, you always come up with some good stuff.
Sal
Sal it is made from hardened steel (some sort of tool steel). A hacksaw wouldn't touch it - I didn't try it on a lathe with TCT or cobalt blades, I don't think HSS would work. I only have a small modelling lathe - 'tener cojones' as they say :D Similar sets may be made from a different steel. The adapter was pretty easy to make once I found out the thread. Accurately centering the pin is the hardest part, you need a lathe or get lucky!. The pin on the original handle is sprung loaded - I may have another crack at this (sprung loaded this time).
Not a machinist Sal, but thanks for the complement ;), I just come from a broad electrical and mechanical engineering background - and I love a challenge :)
Can't stop there Chris ;D, what's the size of that bolt. It looks like a standard 1/2" :-\
Sal it's a standard 5/8" 14 tpi BSF thread. I just checked my hacksaw blade (that I tried) oops :-[ some sharp teeth help ::) A new blade is cutting just fine. I'll finish sawing it tomorrow and face it off on the mini-lathe. No need to make a new adapter ;D
;D...thanks Chris!
Thanks Chris!
I have a similar set of punches, and I like your approach to making them press compatable. I may have to follow suit. I was looking at that handle yesterday wondering "How the heck am I going to be able to cut that?" or make an adapter that can affix these to the press. You have answered my question. The two other things that crossed my mind, were...
Maybe I can find a neck-down, male-male adapter to go from the 1/2 " square stud to a standard socket size, for attaching any sockets with 3/8" or 1/4" drives.
I might have to try to find a chuck that can be mounted on the stud, so I can center smaller diameter punches, for punching out pins, frozen screws (through the non-threaded part), and the like. I was thinking of something similar to the simple chucks that come with tap sets. If I can find one with a 1/4" drive, I may he in buisness.
The other thing is how to make something for pressing pins, and collared pins (like international dog, and dog spring pins, or bridge centering pins in place. I noticed there are collared bushings of various sizes available through Grainger or McMaster Carr. Would just need the correct size and a simple means of attaching them to a 1/4" drive.
Just a few thoughts on how to get tools mounted to the arbor.
I would certainly appreciate any other thoughts/suggestions on the matter.
The re-modeled handle is finished - sawn with a hacksaw - faced off - re-blued
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b521/Tiddlerbasher/8_zpsmpckbqpc.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/Tiddlerbasher/media/8_zpsmpckbqpc.jpg.html)
hAha...somehow I knew you were going to do it ;D. Thanks for sharing my friend.
Sal
No problemo Sal :D
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on April 20, 2015, 12:07:37 PM
The re-modeled handle is finished - sawn with a hacksaw - faced off - re-blued
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b521/Tiddlerbasher/8_zpsmpckbqpc.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/Tiddlerbasher/media/8_zpsmpckbqpc.jpg.html)
Chris,
So the part on the left is going to be used in the arbor press for ALL hole punches instead of the adapter you made? If not please explain.
Thanx,
Leo
Yes Leo - 'Cos its got a spring loaded point - makes it easier to centre.
I am still contemplating how best to seat this same handle to my press. I was wonderimg if my friend with a lathe might be able to cut it off and turn it down to fit the press.
Last night I did a little online research on accessories for the press that won't break the bank. Heres what I was thinking...
I was just looking at that stuff last night online. I would like a large, possobly keyless chuck atrachment (for mounting pin & coller punches and smaller diameter slugs/presses. I found a magnetic chuck online that wpuld work, as well as a post from a different machinist forum on how to make one using a hard drive, or rare earth magnet. I was considering it, along with a set of short 2" starter rolled pin punches from Brownelles (mayne the ones with removable pins, or the Crystal or Brownelles set) and a set of larger punches, and block (from and a 1/2" square male to 1/4" male adaptor so I can use hardened sockets. Still working out what to use to attach my gasket punch adaptor to the press..maybe have a friend cut it and turn it down to 7/16" dia. As far as the chuck goes, I might look at adapting a 1/2" arbor/drill press chuck to fit the press. This stuff should stay under $150-$200 total Cost. Havn't committed to anything, and I am a bit short on time these days, so may have to wait a bit.
Hi, would you consider boring a hole in the bottom of the ram of your arbor press?
Sounds like you are all over this..anxious to hear what you guys come up with to tool up these small presses for our purposes. Still punching washers by hand..
Quote from: STRIPER LOU on April 24, 2015, 09:06:32 PM
Hi, would you consider boring a hole in the bottom of the ram of your arbor press?
Mine came prebored and magnetized...I wish it had a set screw in the ram itself though. Guess I could drill and tap one.
How about a simple set of bushings with the center hole sizes you need for your various fixtures. You would have to have a set screw in the ram as well as in the bushing. Is that what you have now?
..................lou
I don't have a set screw in the ram, but may consider adding one. Particularly, if the mag. is not strong enough to hold a chuck arbor, with the chuck and whatever its holding in place (this will likely be the case). I looked at bushings. The large sized ones are expensive, so I thought a single block (comes with press pins) would be better for support. Large impact sockets should make for a cheap/effective alternative for large diameter presses. I might use ABS pipe as support. A few smaller ones might be good for pressing collared pins (like the dog pins on internationals) in place though. They also make hollow punches for smaller diameter collered pins (gunsmithimg type). The other thought was they make some pretty cool sets specifically for pressing and seperating bearings. They are kinda pricy though. The adjustable support for the outter bearing collar seems like a good thing to have though. Guess I really need to think about what specific size and type pins, bearings, and bushings I will be pressing...in addition to cutting CF, Delron, or rubber washers. I like cheap, effective, and adaptable.
Sounds good. The chuck will give you the ability to use just about any diameter you like. Great idea! Although the keyless is the quickest and easiest to use you may find that a keyed chuck may be better suited for what your doing. Lots cheaper too. Putting the set screw in the ram is the way to go. On the shaft of your chuck you can put on a reverse angle or us old timers call it a whistle. That will line up with the set screw in the ram and you'll never have a problem with the chuck pulling out or moving. Don't chintz on the set screw size, go at least 5/16-18. A 1/4" for the tap drill size or if you want to get fussy letter "F" drill .257. Do you have enough clearance height to get a chuck and your fixtures in place?
Good luck with the project!
.............Lou
I got my Arbor press set up with a few attachments....
I took Lou's advice and drilled, taped, and mounted a 5/16-18 set screw in the ram.
I then bought a keyed 1/2" chuck. It mounts to the ram via a 1/2" time threaded lag bolt that was cut to length.
I decided to make a quick and easy mount for my 10 piece holow punch set. I took a 5/8" coarse thread lag bolt, mounted it in a punch. I affixed 2 nuts directly above. Then cut it to length, and ground off the threads to get to the 1/2" diameter that fits snugly in the ram.
Unlike Chris, my setup does not have a centering pin for the ram attachment. However, I still have the origionsal spring-loaded one that comes with the set, so I figure I can quickly mark material first, then finish the outrer and inner diameter cuts in the press. I might still have my machinist friend correct this small issue.
I also bought a 1/2" drive, 33mm impact socket, and a 2 1/2 " (2 1/8" inner diameter) galvanized pipe coupling for pressing International 80 cam holders.
Also bought a 1/2" drive, 1 1/2" socket, and a 2 1/2" (w/2 3/8" inner dia) X 2" piece of PVC for pressing the 130 cam holders.
*The Arbor press came with a 1/2" square drive that fits all 1/2" sockets. Neck down adaptors allow it to fit any 1/2", 3/8", or 1/4" drive socket that I plan to use as presses.
I am currently using a 2' section of 1 1/2" abs pipe as a handle extension for the press.
The magnetized ram the manufacture advertises is nothing more then a strong, flat 1/2" diameter magnet (see picture).
I also plan to buy a cheap plastic cutting board, a set of short (<3"), roll pin starter punches, and a set of press slugs/dies and block. I might just buy reverse taper replacement roll pins instead of the whole punch set, since they should mount adequetly in the chuck.
This should pretty much cover my forseeable pressing needs.
More pics...
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Nice :)