My Andros 12 seems like it could benefit from a sleeve. Free spool is slowed dramatically when tilting the reel while spinning. I found out by messing with the mechanical cast control, turning it roughly to a midway point in its range I can get almost 2 min. of free spool.
Problem is like most lever drags when the reel is tilted to favor the drive side, to the right, it quickly slows to a stop.
Question can this spool be sleeved ? Or shimmed ?
I'm asking because of the snap rings.
shim the right spool bearing "out" a little to decrease the amount of play. i think what's happening here is the same as the shimano tld's. the c-clip acts like a bearing sleeve that is too long. i like to save those old retaining rings and slip them underneath the right spool bearing to take out some of the play. works great!
Thanks, Alan.
I think I will try getting some shim washers. While also picking up some more retaining rings to attempt to come up with a combination that works.
I put a sleeve in my Andros. No free spool increase (it was always very good). Fitting the bellevilles, spring clip and pin was a bit of a pain. With the sleeve it's far easier :) Back the preset all the way off. Tilt the reel to the right while pushing the preset knob in - the spool and sleeve should slide to the right. That then leaves you with much more space to fit all the bits ;) Very handy when servicing.
Tiddlerbasher, thanks for your reply. I have always hated the spring washer set up in my Andros 5N. It has been my belief this brought about the constant replacement of these washers because of the constant tension they are under. Mind you I fished this reel some 6 - 8 hrs. a day repeatedly casting live & chunks of bait to spots in the river.
Your reply may have saved this reel, staying in my collection of using reels.....Jeff
Quote from: alantani on March 07, 2016, 07:12:04 PM
shim the right spool bearing "out" a little to decrease the amount of play. i think what's happening here is the same as the shimano tld's. the c-clip acts like a bearing sleeve that is too long. i like to save those old retaining rings and slip them underneath the right spool bearing to take out some of the play. works great!
Alan are you using the bearing retaining rings?
Keith
Quote from: handi2 on March 09, 2016, 12:29:03 AM
Quote from: alantani on March 07, 2016, 07:12:04 PM
shim the right spool bearing "out" a little to decrease the amount of play. i think what's happening here is the same as the shimano tld's. the c-clip acts like a bearing sleeve that is too long. i like to save those old retaining rings and slip them underneath the right spool bearing to take out some of the play. works great!
Alan are you using the bearing retaining rings?
Keith
That's how I understood him.
Please help! I am not understanding Alan's comment. Does he mean a shim between the spool bearing and the spool bearing cup? I have played shimming between the spool and bearing in order to seduce noise. Are you talking about a couple of thousandths or something like the thickness of the "C/E" clip?
Quote from: Normslanding on March 13, 2016, 09:02:32 PM
Please help! I am not understanding Alan's comment. Does he mean a shim between the spool bearing and the spool bearing cup? Are you talking about a couple of thousandths or something like the thickness of the "C/E" clip?
Yes, to your first question. As far as the dimensions of the thickness here, start out thin & gradually go thicker. If you have an Andros with mechanical cast control turn it all the way off prior to starting any of this.....Or you can increase it using it to make slight adjustments as you add spacers. I placed a thin washer beneath my right side spool bearing & adjusted the cast control to find a happy medium. Testing it by spinning the spool while tilting the spool left & right. If still not clear feel free to ask..Jeff
Tiddlerbasher, so that I'm understanding correctly. You did get rid of the retaining ring on the spool shaft that sits below the left side spool bearing ? With the sleeve taking it's place ? .....Jeff
Yup!
Thanks.
OK, this leads to my next question. Whats stopping the use of thrust bearings ? I believe the Andros frame is stronger & of a better quality than the Fathom.
Thrust bearings - did try it but not enough room. All the bearings were too thick :(
Quote from: Rivverrat on March 15, 2016, 08:44:38 PM
OK, this leads to my next question. Whats stopping the use of thrust bearings ? I believe the Andros frame is stronger & of a better quality than the Fathom.
so, no thrust bearing on the Andros reels?
any tendency to toast the pinion bearing?
No factory fitted thrust bearing.
If you stay within factory specs no problem with the pinion bearing.
I now set my Andros to 10lb strike with 20lb sunset.
As a stand up reel I can't cope with more than 20lb drag :( Age takes it's toll!
well 20# drag with no problem on the pinion bearing its not bad.
Im thinking to look for a andros 5II as an inshore reel, I was thinking to going with a fathom 25LD2 but I like to try different brands and really like what okuma has been doing in the late years
How is it with 17# of drag at strike for fishing 50#? Is it a 50# reel?
17lb at strike is a little high - that would give about 26/27lb at full - there would be a lot of pressure on the drag lever to move it to full.
For me the potential for bearing damage is too high. At stock settings (and even below) I still fish mine as a 50lb braid reel.
I'm late here. Tiddlerbasher are you talking about the 5 or 12 when making your statement about the drag ? I ask because I believe Mark T. was asking about the 12 & neither of my 12's will balk or wimper at 17 - 20 lbs. of drag. Doing so with out any excessive handle bind.
The Andros 12 is very much an excellent 40 - 50 lb. reel it will fish 60, again with out feeling it in the handle while reeling. The drag can go higher, handle bind not becoming an noticeable until you get to 25 lbs. of drag. I believe Okuma got the width & height of this reel as close to perfect as any reel I've used. For 50 line class this reel is as good or better than anything made in its class & is in my opinion in the very least equal to the Penn Torque.
Purchasing my first reel a tad over 40 years ago the Andros 12 is the only reel that I've ever purchased that has exceeded my expectations...Jeff
I was referring to the '5' - the 12 is speced at 27 strike and 34 full.
I like to play safe with my reels and not max them out.
So I would probably run a 12 at 23 strike and 30 full for a safety margin.
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on July 14, 2016, 09:46:42 AM
I was referring to the '5' - the 12 is speced at 27 strike and 34 full.
I like to play safe with my reels and not max them out.
So I would probably run a 12 at 23 strike and 30 full for a safety margin.
I thought you were....Just wished to be sure....Jeff
I missed this post earlier and will address the sleeve question on all the Andros A series reels.
All of the Andros A series (the new silver versions) do not require or benefit from sleeving. It will not hurt to sleeve but if done incorrectly may reduce free spool.
The design is such that the left spool bearing is held tightly in position in the spool by the clicker gear and a spacer under it. This effectively secures the outer race of the bearing in place with 0 freeplay. The bearing is held in place on the shaft by the Eclip, 4 bevilles, washer and a C clip on the other side of the bearing. If you ever tried to get the clips back on you will know the belvilles are partially compressed securely holding the position of the bearing during free spool.
Short explanation is the spool position is held by the left spool bearing. The spool bearings are totally free the same as if sleeved.
Jim N
JGB, the point you bring up is the very reason I originally posted my question. I did sleeve my 12 & 5N. There was no noticeable increase or decrease in free spool. However the ease of service this brings makes sleeving them well worth it for me. If someone only services their reels once a year I probably wouldn't mess with it....Jeff
I would still sleeve - those bellevilles and clip are a real pain
You are all correct ! all my Andros 5 II are sleeved so the bearings are easy to service.
For those who have the Andros reels - The tension on the retaining clips of the left side bearing makes them difficult to remove and almost impossible to put back in place. If you do not wish to sleeve it is recommended that you service the left side spool bearing by removing the inside bearing shield and cleaning it while still installed on the shaft. the cleaning of grease does not need to be perfect as the application of TSI lubricant will cause any grease to be expelled from the bearing.
FYI when removing the bearing clips on the spool shaft be care full not to flare the edges of the shaft grooves. If you do the bearing may not slide off the shaft and the flare will need to manually ground o or filed off.
Jim N.
Quote from: JGB on July 22, 2016, 04:09:11 AM
Y
FYI when removing the bearing clips on the spool shaft be care full not to flare the edges of the shaft grooves. If you do the bearing may not slide off the shaft and the flare will need to manually ground o or filed off.
Jim N.
Ran into some factory spool shafts that needed some soft touch up regarding this so the bearing would slide easily on to the shaft. Also heads up when snugging the harness lugs. They can strip out easily. I did it on my 12 & have had 2 other 12's where the same thing had happened.....Jeff
This is why I only use torque screwdrivers on smaller screw. The lowest being .1 Nm (14 oz inches)
There are various guides/charts, on the net, that give you advice on various torque settings for given screw sizes.
For brass/steel into aluminium I reduce the torque value by 60% (just to be sure) ;)
Tidlerbrasher, that my friend is just good sound advice & practice !