G'day lads,
Here's a nice little three-sized reel that's got the simple, robust design of the TLD series, an open spool (ie no top bar) and good-quality materials that mean it'll last well and handle a good bit of use/abuse...
First up, off comes the handle nut plate and screw, followed by the nut.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_14_38_207472361.jpeg)
Undo the star drag and you'll find the handle washer above and the star drag washer below.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_14_38_20748682.jpeg)
Unscrew all four frame screws on the handle side, then locate and undo the two little screws that back onto the main gear housing.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_14_39_207492460.jpeg)
Off comes the right side plate... The bearing is likely to have come away with the side plate, so push it through and set aside for cleaning, lube etc.
Undo the four left side plate screws and remove the plate. This will allow the removal of the spool assembly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_14_39_20750139.jpeg)
Hook out the spool bearing housed in the right side of the frame.
Dismantle the drag plates and check for damage, corrosion or wear.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_05_40_207411512.jpeg)
Likewise, check all the internal components for wear etc, then clean.
If you're inclined, clean both side plates and the frame thoroughly and apply a thin coating of marine grease to the internal surfaces.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_05_39_20740269.jpeg)
With the aid of Cal's drag grease, reassemble the drag plates as per the following order...
Anti-reverse ratchet (and pawl/spring assembly), followed by the drive shaft washer, ie the smallest fibre drag washer.
Main gear next, then the eared fibre washer, eared washer 'B'.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_05_40_207421080.jpeg)
Keyed metal washer ('C') next, then the black drag washer ('I').
The eared metal washer ('E') is next - be sure to face the ears downwards into the drag stack.
The last fibre washer ('D') is on next.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_05_41_20740143.jpeg)
Slide the last keyed washer ('F') into place and the drag washer assembly is complete.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_05_42_20744261.jpeg)
Slide the yoke plate into place, followed by the yoke and pinion, and finish off with the springs.
Grease only the external surface of the pinion and use a little ReelX (or similar) on the inside.
Apply a little grease to the eccentric and slide into place.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_05_42_207452047.jpeg)
Fasten the eccentric lever and, using a smal pair of pliers, push the eccentric spring into a 'tensioned' position as indicated.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_05_42_207461098.jpeg)
Apply a small amount of grease to each of the bellevilles (aka drag spring washers) and reposition in a ()() formation.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_15_17_207581099.jpeg)
Replace the bearing thrust washer and refit the cleaned, relubed bearing above it.
I've removed only the lower shield on this bearing.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_15_17_207591423.jpeg)
Here's the internal assembly once complete.
replace the right side plate and be sure to align the eccentric lever and the yoke plate before fastening down.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_15_15_20751954.jpeg)
Replace all four side plate screws and fasten down. I also added a bead of grease around the top of the ball bearing, which isn't shown here.
Replace the two smaller side plate screws to fasten down the main gear housing.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_15_16_20751570.jpeg)
Replace the star drag washer and star drag.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_15_16_20753337.jpeg)
Brush a little grease around the 'O' ring and slide the handle washer into place.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_15_16_207542181.jpeg)
Replace the handle nut, plate and screw.
Replace the line guard and screws, following the application of a little grease under the guard and in the screw holes.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_15_16_20755479.jpeg)
Paint a thin layer of grease on the sides of the spool and slide the spool bearing into place.
Once again, I try to keep the shaft free from grease and use a little bearing lube instead.
Apply a little grease to the inside of the left side plate, including around the click spring, which attracts salt/corrosion build-up.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_15_17_20756988.jpeg)
Replace the last four frame screws and give the reel a good buff and polish with a clean rag.
Job done...
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_15_17_207572278.jpeg)
All the best, Justin
those drag washers dont look right,are they carbon fibre?
No, they're standard - the white ones are a cloth fibre/weave (Shimano call them 'titanium').
I'm unsure what the black one is.
The owner is fishing the reel this week, but the Carbontex won't arrive (in NZ) for a couple of weeks ...
By the way, I just realised that the 3GT is basically identical to the TLD 15/30, which Alan's already covered.
Apologies for the duplication.
I'm curious: Why is it necessary to apply a thin coat of grease on the inside of graphite side plates? I do that, of course, with aluminum plates but didn't think it necessary with graphite side plates.
While the graphite obviously won't corrode, the surface isn't smooth and can attract salt build up.
Bryan commented on this once before:
QuoteSalt tends to stick to graphite frames, probably because it's not a smooth surface. By greasing, it does not allow the salt water to stick to the frame, and slides out through any of the openings in the reel.
Post: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=710.0
Cheers.
Quote from: redsetta on July 18, 2011, 10:32:40 AM
No, they're standard - the white ones are a cloth fibre/weave (Shimano call them 'titanium').
I'm unsure what the black one is.
The owner is fishing the reel this week, but the Carbontex won't arrive (in NZ) for a couple of weeks ...
By the way, I just realised that the 3GT is basically identical to the TLD 15/30, which Alan's already covered.
Apologies for the duplication.
The only difference from the TLD 15/30 besides the badging is the body colour is slightly lighter on the 3GT.
Another great tutorial Justin,thanks for sharing.
AK- that thin coat of grease will catch and hold sand and tiny metal particles away from the gears. We used to apply a light film of grease to the inside of the air filter box on dirt bikes to do the same thing.
Justin,
I never saw this posting before, even though it was done almost a year ago. Very nice and thorough.
Thank you for sharing.
Bryan
if you still have that reel, find a place to scratch the frame and side plates on the inside and i think you will find that they are graphite, made to look like aluminum.
Cheers lads - it's a nice little reel.
Will have to get one of my own at some stage... ;)
All the best, Justin
Nice I have offered to service my brothers 4GT so will pull it to bits tomorrow. At a glance, the internals actually look very similar to my Daiwa SL20SHB
Hi.. is it you or is it me? I'm on firefox xp sp 3, and all the images on the RH side, are chopped, so they are only partly there. I am attempting to re-assemble a wee triton 200, where the fellow took off the arm controlling the eccentric spring, and your tutorial's photo of this step is one of the ones chopped so it's of no value here. I suspect your tutorial will be good for the 200, if only I could see the pic. :(
G'day Ken,
Sorry to hear the photos are cropped.
I'm on Firefox as well, but can see the pics in all their glory ;)
The eccentric lever and spring are basically identical to the Penn system, so should pose no significant issues to reassemble.
Alan's 113 tutorial is almost the same: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=208.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=208.0)
Hope that's of some assistance.
Cheers, Justin
Hio, Regretfully, no. That Shimano Triton 200 spring and arm, have won. I have spent over two hours trying every which way to get it re-assembled. I received the reel in baggies.
I have another post looking for help, in a post on the triton 200. Penn, and Abu re-assembly times have been in the order of 10-15 minutess first time seen, and after joining AT's site here, and seeing pics and tutorials, no time at all. Bada boom.
I am going to take a hard look at this image, where the human hand is, and see if it's close.
(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j335/redsetta/ShimanoTritonStarDrag/TritonStarDrag-14.jpg)
Cheers, Ken.
Any chance an incorrect clutch spring was included in the baggies?
Looking at the schematic from the TR200 post, it appears basically the same as the 3GT :-\
Good luck Ken.
Cheers, Justin
I'll try once more today, and maybe I'll get it. akfish, posting in a prior 200G thread I posted on, suggests maybe I have a bad spring, and eccentric arm, being plastic.
Got it. I have left the benovelant order of CLOD.... co-operative league of dimwits.. ;D ;D..and got it OK. I was looking at it backwards, being left handed. Bantam 1, a factory rep that posts on several reel forums, set me straight.
He advised to assemble the eccentric and the lever first, then sneak the bent end of the spring into the little hole, then work the assy to get the straight end near its notch. Loop of the spring up.
Took all of 15 seconds this way.
Not sure what you're implying by 'CLOD', but glad you got it sorted nontheless.
Ha! unsure what a c.l.o.d. eludes to your way, but here, it's like one of my 40-watt friends, a real dim bulb.
I used it as an acronym (coperatave league of dimwits).. as a jokingly self put-down for taking forever to figure out the jack spring.
All good Ken - guilty of the same thing meself ;) ;D
For those who are unaware the original name of the TLD Star was Stardrag GT. The GT3 is now the TLD 1530 and the GT4 is now the TLD 2040. The parts are exactly the same. The only difference is the color of the frame.
Quote from: jd944 on May 11, 2016, 12:37:41 PM
For those who are unaware the original name of the TLD Star was Stardrag GT. The GT3 is now the TLD 1530 and the GT4 is now the TLD 2040. The parts are exactly the same. The only difference is the color of the frame.
Actually there is one more difference. The GT has a black aluminium handle and the TLD has a chromed brass one.