Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Thanks for all the reply's I got it out! more PB Blaster and set it out in the sun for a few hours and used some crimping pliers with the () got a good grip better than my needle nose cracked it loose.

Thank you Alan, I will try contacting Diawa..

Yes ,that's way I prefer older reel with no roller,no ball bearings ,just more problems .salt always get in to these bearings and often have to replaced it

I had 2 Shimano Stratic's with an aluminum sleeve part in the line roller. A saltwater corrosion magnet.

For really rusted/stuck metal parts, I've had good results w/the homebrew of 50/50 ATF and Acetone. Mix it good before every use, then apply with a brush or swish it around in a jar and soak.

https://www.thetoolyard.com/2026/06/acetone-and-atf-penetrating-oil-does.html?m=1

They look great!

Fred mentioned awhile back doing a DQ in German flag colors & I was thinking a 285 would be a good candidate.The bearing & plate covers in  black,yellow body,& red rotor?

Quote from: jtwill98 on August 16, 2026, 07:48:30 PMJoe, I've been following your thread and I wonder in your words, how much do you think your process has improved since you started the thread?

I realize you continue experimenting with different techniques for various results. Have you found favorite techniques that made you go WOW at the end results.

To me, your results are stunningly and mostly great. I have my opinions on some of the results, but they're just my preferences and in no means does it take away the excellent work you produce.

I'd like to see a tie-dye variant and wonder if this process from AI would achieve it.  Is this something you'd be willing to try?

AI Recommended Process
This is the closest visual equivalent to traditional tie-dye. It relies on a white base layer and manually dusting accent colors over it using fine-mesh kitchen or craft sifters.

• Apply the Base: Shoot the metal object with a solid white or light silver base coat using your standard electrostatic gun. Do not bake it yet.
• Sift the Swirls: Take small craft sifters filled with vibrant, contrasting powder colors (like neon pinks, blues, and yellows). Hold them over the part and gently tap them to let the powder fall in random, overlapping patterns or spiral shapes.
• Blend the Edges: Use a very soft, dry artist brush or a gentle puff of air from an empty squeeze bottle to lightly scatter or swirl the edges of the dry powder where the colors meet.
• Cure: Carefully move the piece into your toaster oven or curing oven. As the powder melts at 375°F–400°F, the overlapping colors will fuse into a smooth, blended tie-dye pattern.

Sifters -- https://cooltools.us/products/enameling-sifter-80-mesh

[Note: Thanks for providing a good example of how to label AI generated content!]

As usual, the AI is a bit confused.

The (non-AI) story on sifting/tapping from an actual human:

This is mostly a hot-flocking technique that requires the part to be hot enough for the powder to stick to it.  Which in addition to being a pain, makes it a one shot deal, unlike normal powder application that can simply be wiped off if it hasn't been baked yet.  And the example video at the cooltools site demonstrates some terrible technique.

To do this method, you first  preheat the part and while it is still hot enough, you dust it with powder falling from a sifter, paintbrush, even a teaspoon.  You need to develop some skill at tapping the powder so that it falls evenly on the part.  I have also use various screens and shields to make patterns or masks, but it is primarily used to get a gradient airbrush-like effect.  It is popular with lure makers- as you don't have to get it perfect for a lure, and they like lots of different colors in a small area- and multi-color is a pain when powder coating. Since the powder is falling onto the hot part, it works best on flat or simple convex curved surfaces.

You can't do this on a cold part unless the surface is flat an you can bake it it with the flat surface facing up and completely level.  And the duster "tie dye" technique will only work on cold-part.

I have done some variations on this by painting coatings that the powder will stick to before dusting the powder on a cold part, combined with a few other tricks (too long to get into here).  I am not a huge fan, but there are lure makes that swear by it.  It might be useful for some of the badge and trim painting that Joe does.

Quote from: oldmanjoe on August 16, 2026, 10:41:35 PMI want try a more fine line shooting , instead of powder clouds .  Reels are small , so to keep things in scale is another challenge .

Besides wasting less powder, I don't think that a finer spray won't do much for you with an electrostatic charge.  The powder is still going to find its away around the part.  If you don't mind using hot flocking, there are some airbrush type sprayers that will handle powder.  Not as accurate as an airbrush, but the same idea. This is one, but I don't think it is made any more: https://www.dickblick.com/products/badger-mini-sandblasting-kit/.  It is actually a low power (i.e. limited usefulness) sandblaster, but you can also use it as a not-very-fine powder "airbrush".  There is another brand collecting dust somewhere in my garage that worked a little better, but I never played enough with either of them to get good at it.  These sprayers can also be used if place of "tapping"/gravity dusting to get the same effect, and can be applied to more complex part shapes.

Regarding surface finish:  While you have done a lot more reels than I have by now, I was (usually) able to do pretty well on limiting surface defects.  For reels, I was doing mostly Penn spinners and chrome plated brass conventional parts (after removing the chrome).  So maybe it has something to do with the Quick reel castings? 

If you haven't done this already, it might be worth going through your normal blasting/baking/cleaning/coating/baking cycle on some chunks of fresh bar stock aluminum and see what the finish looks like.  You might be able rule out the equipment.

FWIIW, I use a cheap adjustable voltage Eastwood gun (not made any more), and most of my baking was in a big professional oven, but I have also gotten good results with a big toaster oven with the temperature controlled by an external PID controller that keeps the temp in a narrow accurate range.    The thing that I miss most is access to a blast cabinet.  I used garnet media (not sure what grit, but it was aggressive).  It is a pain to prep parts by hand, but still easier than prepping for liquid paints.

While I see recommendations for out-gassing old cast parts at lower temperatures for longer times, I preferred to do runs at the temp that I planned to bake it.  Scrub clean with Simple Green and repeat until nothing more leaks out.

I am very appreciative that you have kept this thread going.  I have learned a bunch, and will probably bug you a bit for some tips at some point, because I really want to try that snakeskin!

-J

Agreed, luck favors the prepared

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on August 17, 2026, 06:33:35 PM

Quote from: quang tran on August 17, 2026, 05:31:46 PMalluminium when rusted will stuck very bad . Use liquid plumber for few hour to eat the rust out to remove it

That sounds like it could get very destructive.

A spinner can still function with a line roller that's turned into a line guide. You might have to stop and ask what level of risk the owner is willing to take to improve something that functions as is.

Yes ,some chrome surface will get dull but can be polish it back