I was casting with my Stradic 1000 for a few hours yesterday. Near the end of my session I noticed the reel able to back reel intermittently.
I was spinning the handle and letting go, to recover line quicker, and when I'd grab hold it would go backward. Sometimes a few turns, sometimes 1/2 turn, etc. Luckily I didn't get all tangled up.
Is this an ARB failure?
I have never taken a spinner apart, so scary issue.
Quote from: Rancanfish on April 05, 2016, 01:28:25 AM
I was casting with my Stradic 1000 for a few hours yesterday. Near the end of my session I noticed the reel able to back reel intermittently.
I was spinning the handle and letting go, to recover line quicker, and when I'd grab hold it would go backward. Sometimes a few turns, sometimes 1/2 turn, etc. Luckily I didn't get all tangled up.
Is this an ARB failure?
I have never taken a spinner apart, so scary issue.
Does it have the switch underneath to allow you to turn on and off the AR?
Yes it does John. The switch seems to be functioning normal.
yes, take spool off, there should be a screw holding the lock ring on the rotor nut, remove screw, then remove rotor nut. wiggle and pull rotor up and off. Now you can see the anti reverse clutch and the steel sleeve in the middle. The clutch is held on by 3 long screws. There is also 2 short screws holding the clutch together, do not remove the short screws. If you remove a short screw, put it right back and move on to the long screws. Remove the 3 long screws. Now, lift the clutch off and wash it out with brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol. Dry it and put it back on. Wipe the sleeve clean and put it back on, put front of reel back together, if it still slips you need to order a new clutch.
Spinning reels are not that difficult to work on as long as you know not to remove the pinion gear or open the side cover without holding a pencil through the hole to hold the drive gear down. You have to make sure the drive gear and the pinion gear stay meshed together at the same spot until you get to a point that you can mark them so you can put them back at same exact spot. You don't need to do that just to take the front rotor off to get to the clutch.
EDIT; just realized Pro Reel answered, thanks. Feel free to answer the following question I addressed to John
John, do I re-oil the rollers w/ReelX or leave them dry? (Edit, in Johns' link below he advises leaving them dry).
I flushed alcohol thru the clutch and it was basically clear, so I rubbed them with swabs and the swabs got black / dirty looking.
Thanks Pro Reel & John T so much for making it simple for me.
I'm fortunate as I barely used these 1997 Stradics and one Sustain since new. A little light maintenance and they will be fine. Good thing, as the new ones are even more expensive now.
yep, the clutch probably needs a cleaning. Be sure to use plastic safe solvents.
Its an older clutch so not sure if it is the same as the ones they use now, but if you want to open it (carefully) here is a tutorial:
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=15339.0
IPA for cleaning - it's plastic safe. Keep the ARB dry for best results. You may get away with a drop of CorrosionX - be warned though some ARB's will slip when lubed.
Or cleaned with spray electrical contact cleaner. It's quick dry and works well.
Quote from: handi2 on April 05, 2016, 03:37:25 PM
Or cleaned with spray electrical contact cleaner. It's quick dry and works well.
x2 I use Bullfrog Electronic Cleaner/Corrosion Blocker--good stuff.
Pro Reel: You said "You have to make sure the drive gear and the pinion gear stay meshed together at the same spot until you get to a point that you can mark them so you can put them back at same exact spot." Why is this? I have never done it and my spinning reels seem to turn out OK. You have me worried that I have destroyed a lot of reels.
Tom
Some spinners have to be put together with the gears "synced" . If they are not assembled right there can be bad ju ju. the shimano reels I have serviced have arrows on the gears that have to be aligned. There is normally a inset box in the scematic that shows how they go. Bob
Quote from: FishermanTom81 on April 17, 2016, 01:39:46 AM
Pro Reel: You said "You have to make sure the drive gear and the pinion gear stay meshed together at the same spot until you get to a point that you can mark them so you can put them back at same exact spot." Why is this? I have never done it and my spinning reels seem to turn out OK. You have me worried that I have destroyed a lot of reels.
Tom
This is actually a pretty complicated issue...because several factors determine how quietly the gears mesh. Some people are finding that their reel is noisier after dis-assembly and then put back together but the cause is not certain.
1. There is some (anecdotal) evidence that over time the gears "run in" and wear in a micro pattern not discernible to the human eye that makes them ideally smooth. Replaced in a different position and they feel a little rough. Not terrible, but not as smooth as before.
2. Some gears as in the previous post must be put back in specific orientations due to the type of oscillation their line lay mechanisms use.
3. However, there are several things that affect gear mesh in a spinning reel:
a. How tight the rotor nut. As it gets tighter it pulls the pinion gear away from the main. If you tighten it more or less than it was than before then you may affect tolerances or move an unworn-in part of the pinion into contact with the main.
b. Main gear shims (between the handle bearing and the main gear) also affect meshing. Over time a shim may need to be added (too much side to side play) and when you tighten up the main it may have to "run in" to the new tolerance.
c. Depending on the spinning reel there may also be shims before or after the pinion gears. As above they may need to be added over time as the gears wear.
Frankly I am amazed at how the reel assembly techs do such a good job reel after reel shimming them just right. But an older spinning reel changes it's tolerances over time (ie the rotor nut cranks down more than before to get tight) changing the mesh. It simply is a case of trial and error for me to get it into as smooth as possible when I am working on one of my reels.
Pro Reel probably knows from experience that if you put a mark on the pinion and main to line them up where they were before and replace the rotor nut with the same tension you found it produces the most consistent results.
best
This is all great information. Thank you all for your insight.