Yesterday I got to finally replace the sleeve on the my old favorite P235-F with the SS one I got from Tom Hryniuk
I think this is the very 1st reel I bought with my own money back in the early 1980's? Still catching YT (caught two a few weeks ago on the Pac Voyager)
My old original sleeve had what looks to be a "pressed" on washer at the base. The new one did not have one.
So I took an old eared washer and ground off the ears and used that. I'm just guessing that is what most do?
Or should I put an Ht-100? Seemed as it was supporting the gear.. that a metal washer was better choice.
Being a good student of Mr. Tani I have always greased my screws with a good marine grade Aluminum Complex grease.
And when I went to repair my reel yesterday found a sideplate screws FI-662 missing. Must have vibrated loose on my last trip.
Same thing keeps happening to my Torium 20. Cannot keep the side plate screws from coming loose.
Is there something better than grease? I am thinking of something like locktight. tired for coming home and searching
for screws and $2 a piece plus shipping.. :-(
Been searching the internet and so far.. found a set of used ones for $10 + Shipping. Seems excessice for a .15c part (says so right on my Skematic! LOL )
(http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u478/gordog1962/Fishing%20Stuff/IMG_20160515_101838749_zpsnw8qebz6.jpg) (http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/gordog1962/media/Fishing%20Stuff/IMG_20160515_101838749_zpsnw8qebz6.jpg.html)
If you want, PM me and I'll send you one.
So reading Newell Nut's 4 Stack Drag http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=10583.0
I am guessing I need to some how fuse the washer to the SS Sleeve? or is it fine to leave them both.
I put the washer and an Ht-100 under the main gear but didn't epoxy or freeze the washer.
On a 20# reel.. does it even matter?
The original P series had a 4 stack drag system and that is what you have. I do not know if the de-eared washer will spin on the sprocket and create heat. You could try it and use a standard thickness CF washer under the gear so that your spacing stays correct when you put everything back together.
IF you know of a local welding shop you could drill some holes in the de-eared SS washer and get them to just spot weld it with a tig rig since the gear sleeve is SS. The put it back into the reel with your CF under the gear in the recess and then put Bryan's 5 stack drag in the gear and you will have an awesome 6 stack drag. Yellowtails beware of the new beast. The only Newell screws that I do not lube are the 4 bridge screws and never had a problem.
Dwight
Do Tom's Newell sleeves have the flats all the way down to the AR ratchet? I filed an original bronze sleeve down to the ratchet then just used a keyed washer against the ratchet.
Mike
No. They are not. Round at the bottom and thought of that. I saw some 500's that were like that and would make perfect sense.
Not sure I like the idea of epoxy. Newell Nut how have your epoxy'd sleeves held up? (ANybody else try epoxy the washer to the SS Sleeve? )
Wondering if you could drill and PIN it? Will have to find a machine shop here in San Diego.
The 4 stack is fine.. I have plenty of drag and is as smoooth as I remember and I cannot back it all the way off as it is. Bryan helped me get the spacing correct after I had to replace the star washers that had flattened out. My star kept hitting the siudeplace and had to add some spacers.. and were just worn. I do miss the spring washers that I had to replace. I am thinking of going with a thinner star so I can add more of the spring/cupped washers. the newer washer are thicker and stiffer. I liked the feel of the original spring washers. So doubt I will go to the 5+1. I keep a Penn 505 Black/Tiburon Narrow with a 5+1 for my 25# and even with all my newer Avet and Toriums.. I still love to fish them both.
My sleeve was so worn and the nut cap area are all cross threaded.. and it was time to replace the sleeve. I think a new STAR a little thinner is next upgrade. Wouldn't mind a counter balanced arm and handle.. but .. as Bryan Young .. said. Stop fussing.. and go fishing! { ;D
I just caught a ride on the Pacific Voyager for Memorial day 2.5 with the guys from Bloodydecks again.. So.. just getting everything in order.
Here's a couple of photos of a stock bronze sleeve that I filed the flats all the way to the ratchet. The stainless will be a bit tougher (depending on how much they are hardened). Be sure to use a 'safe file' with no teeth on one side so you don't scar your ratchet. If the stainless sleeve is too hard you will need to use an abrasive wheel in a dremel. I don't think I would attempt it on a bench grinder.
Good luck
Mike
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah30/mwhelm/fishing%20reel/FrankenNewell%20322/2015%20Newell%20322%20015_zpselrfttmw.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/mwhelm/media/fishing%20reel/FrankenNewell%20322/2015%20Newell%20322%20015_zpselrfttmw.jpg.html)
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah30/mwhelm/fishing%20reel/FrankenNewell%20322/2015%20Newell%20322%20003_zpscdcizwyo.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/mwhelm/media/fishing%20reel/FrankenNewell%20322/2015%20Newell%20322%20003_zpscdcizwyo.jpg.html)
Riddle me this.
What if i used the dremel tool and put some keys for the ears in the bottom of the main gear? Two simple little slots?
What are the pitfalls?
Quote from: tgorman on May 16, 2016, 01:17:19 AM
Riddle me this.
What if i used the dremel tool and put some keys for the ears in the bottom of the main gear? Two simple little slots?
What are the pitfalls?
Never mind.. that would cause metal on metal.. I knew it was too easy :P
Dremel with a disc worked great. Got a little sloppy and need to clean up a little.. solvent bath..and re-lube and I think it is a go!
(http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u478/gordog1962/Fishing%20Stuff/IMG_20160515_184451512_zpsdbqd4eo6.jpg) (http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/gordog1962/media/Fishing%20Stuff/IMG_20160515_184451512_zpsdbqd4eo6.jpg.html)
Great job!...and you're back in business.
Never thought the dremel could cut SS. I alwasy thought they were cute toys for wood. Never used one before a few months ago. Took a bit of a learning curve as welll. I finally figured out there is a digital dial on it.. and when you crank it up.. it works better. The flat DISC's work great. Was trying to deepen the ear slots on the inside of the main gears on my Diawa's 400H and 500H to do Bryan's Ulitmate upgrades and it just wouldn't cut and I changed tools and cranked it up to 25 and I was done in 30 seconds on something I had spent a over an hour fussing with.. Faster cuts better and faster! who knew?? LOL
My x-brother in law isn't getting his cool dremel kit back anytime soon. Too much fun. ;D
Dam nice work, Mike!!! Very clean cut!
Quote from: PacRat on May 15, 2016, 11:26:47 PM
Here's a couple of photos of a stock bronze sleeve that I filed the flats all the way to the ratchet. The stainless will be a bit tougher (depending on how much they are hardened). Be sure to use a 'safe file' with no teeth on one side so you don't scar your ratchet. If the stainless sleeve is too hard you will need to use an abrasive wheel in a dremel. I don't think I would attempt it on a bench grinder.
Good luck
Mike
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah30/mwhelm/fishing%20reel/FrankenNewell%20322/2015%20Newell%20322%20015_zpselrfttmw.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/mwhelm/media/fishing%20reel/FrankenNewell%20322/2015%20Newell%20322%20015_zpselrfttmw.jpg.html)
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah30/mwhelm/fishing%20reel/FrankenNewell%20322/2015%20Newell%20322%20003_zpscdcizwyo.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/mwhelm/media/fishing%20reel/FrankenNewell%20322/2015%20Newell%20322%20003_zpscdcizwyo.jpg.html)
I searched the internet and found some with hex heads. And I finally searched "newell bridge Screws" and got a hit in Temecula just up the road at
Berinson Tackle
http://berinsontackle.com/products-page/4-reel-parts/newell-fi-662-bridge-plate-58-screws-new/
I found a place that would make them for us, but gotta buy 1000 and they are $1.37 each.
Digressing to the original question...go to McMaster-Carr and try this part no.:92196A138
This one is 6-40x5/8 and it fits my 300 series and they are only $1.70 for ten. I use these in the Cortez Conversion plates but I shorten them a little. The Penn screws will fit too but they are chrome over brass rather than stainless.
Mike
Quote from: PacRat on May 22, 2016, 04:49:07 AM
Digressing to the original question...go to McMaster-Carr and try this part no.:92196A138
This one is 6-40x5/8 and it fits my 300 series and they are only $1.70 for ten. I use these in the Cortez Conversion plates but I shorten them a little. The Penn screws will fit too but they are chrome over brass rather than stainless.
Mike
here is link
http://www.mcmaster.com/#92196a138/=vxai2u
Thank you PacRat for that. I found U-Bolt-it has the same product, and was cheaper. Contacted them to see if they had slotted fillister/cheesehead, but to no avail.
www.uboltit.com