The Shakespeare Standard Professional Free Spool remains the best Depression Era reel I can find. It was discussed in one of Mike's threads here:
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=20246.15 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=20246.15) #16
With an eleven foot three piece cane rod it will throw a 1/4 ounce jig thirty yards. I'm pretty happy with that and try not to think about the 65 to 70 yards they were throwing 1/4 ounce in casting tournaments a hundred years ago.
The reel is much larger than needed. 120 yards of 15# braided nylon is plenty but that is less than half spool. At half spool, the retrieve (inches per turn) is painfully slow. So, I was thinking about adding a cork arbor (spacer/filler) to reduce spool weight. Then, in a moment of intoxicated brilliance, I decided to also drill the aluminum spool flanges.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/SPFSd.JPG)
Oops.... When casting, water being flung off the line goes through the holes and into the gear case. Water was dripping out of the cracks between the shrunken hard rubber spacers and the side plate. Also, the cork arbor was not true or balanced and it would wobble when casting.
So, the hard rubber spacers were removed and replaced with tubular brass spacers. This makes it easy to rinse the saltwater out of the gears and re-lubricate. The photo below is the third attempt at a spool spacer but it too was out of balance and I went back to nylon line backing to take up space. Also, a small brass screw and nuts were attached to the frame to tension the clutch lever.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/SPFSe.JPG)
I could not tell that drilling the spool made any difference in performance. Despite going from Art Deco to Steam Punk styling, it still works fine. It was used to catch a medium size (19 inch fork length) bonefish and all was uneventful. Actually, both rod an reel felt like I was over-gunned for the task. The next step is to find a smaller reel with the Koph style clutch and figure out how to reduce the weight of the cane rod.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/SPFSf.jpg)
-steve
Very very cool.
Very cool. At least rinsing and drying would be easily done.
Pretty cool use of the brass spacers......Bill
oh... and don't let the fine people at ORCA see this. They would not approve.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on March 12, 2017, 08:00:53 PM
oh... and don't let the fine people at ORCA see this. They would not approve.
-steve
Lol :D
Quote from: oc1 on March 12, 2017, 08:00:53 PM
oh... and don't let the fine people at ORCA see this. They would not approve.
-steve
Ya think? Surly not something for the weak at heart! ;D
There is something I didn't mention because it is so embarrassing. But they say catharsis is good for the soul.
With a long limber rod and 3/8 or 1/4 ounce jig the reel is uncontrollable. If the jeweled spool tension knobs are cranked down enough to get somewhat thumb-free casting it yields no distance. If the spool tension knobs are backed off and my thumb is perfectly aligned with the cosmos it will throw 3/8 ounce at least 39 yards. The trouble is, my thumb and the cosmos almost never line up so 95% of the time it either falls way short or ends in a backlash.
The original goal of having a Depression Era period appropriate rig went out the window when the spool was drilled. So, I magged it to get the spool under control. I had never magged a reel before and bought the wrong magnets. They are a whopping half-inch in diameter and the neodymium number is probably low. Drilling the spool may make the magnets less effective. The steel clicker ratchet centered between the magnets may make them less effective. For whatever the reason, I seem to have a lot more magnet under the spool than you would expect for a reel this size.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/SPFSg.jpg)
The magnets were attached with a stick of rod guide hot glue and a hot air gun. The clicker spring was removed to make more room for magnets. There are four stacks of two magnets in a +-+- arrangement. For a 1/8 or 3/16 ounce jig all the magnets are used. For a 1/4 ounce jig a magnet is removed from one of the stacks. For a 3/8 ounce jig two magnets are removed.
With the spool tension knobs backed off, a 3/8 ounce jig will cast 34 yards, thumb free, every time. It's a beautiful thing. 1/4 ounce goes 29-30 yards. 3/16 ounce about 25 yards.
-steve
I don't know if the magnets are too big or not but it sounds like it's working - Ya gotta be happy with that! ;D
Mike
That is some serious experimentation there Steve...and seems to work very well. Who knows what we'll see next time you "imbibe"! :D
I have been watching for a smaller reel with the Kpoh style clutch and finally had to drop a Benjamin (with shipping) for one. That's two to three times more than I am usually willing to pay for an old reel. It arrived today.
You may have seen it; a Shakespeare Tournament Free Spool, Model 31. That makes the release date circa 1931.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSc.JPG)
However, the stand is marked Model 26 with a strike through the 26. It is a sharp clean strike and I suspect it was done at the factory.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSd.JPG)
The head plate is not marked and the head plate finish is not as nice as you would expect. There is faint pitting and tool marks.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSa.JPG)
The handle is ridiculously small. It is the smallest handle and the smallest knobs I have ever seen. When reeling in, the opposing handle knob bumps my finger with every turn. The knob shape is not typical for a Shakespeare of this vintage, but the knob color and mottling is spot on so I suspect that is how it came from the factory. I think the knob material is what they were calling Ivoroid (faux ivory). I have a handle from a Shakespeare Criterion parts reel of the same vintage and it fits perfectly.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSk.JPG)
The reel was spooled with some fancy two-tone hard braid silk. I suspect the line was six to eight pound test when new but the silk has deteriorated and now breaks at only one or two pounds.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSb.JPG)
I removed the line and was very happy to find a cork spool arbor/spacer. The curious thing was that the line was not tied to the spool but to a little piece of thread. To me, this indicates that the reel was used for tournament casting only and the owner had no plans to take it fishing.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSg.JPG)
The ends of the spool shaft are somewhat grooved and the jeweled end caps have worn depressions in the agate. To me, this indicates the reel was used with a long rod, high start-up speeds and tight spool end caps.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSj.JPG)
The tail plate is peened to the posts. The head plate is removed with only two screws. Inside the head plate is a familiar Koph style clutch.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSh.JPG)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSi.JPG)
Whoa, hold everything !!!! The spool flanges are drilled. The triangular shaped marks you see are where a tool was driven through the aluminum spool flange leaving a small pointed piece of metal on the other side. This may have been to keep the cork from slipping on the arbor. There are two sizes of round holes and the spacing is irregular. Some of the holes are not completely round either. The irregular spacing may have been for both weight reduction and dynamic spool balancing. I cannot tell if the holes were drilled at the factory or drilled by the owner.
Frankly, the spool I drilled looks better. Also, I drilled holes near the perimeter of the flange where a small weight reduction makes a big difference in the moment of inertia. Holes drilled near the center of the flange have little effect on the moment of inertia. Some casting tournaments of the time had rules about using stock reels. It is possible the holes drilled under the cork where they could not be seen was a clandestine modification.
I'm making a lighter weight rod for this reel and am anxious to try it out.
-steve
Fascinating post Steve. Keep it coming.
Steve, any idea how the cork was applied to the arbor? Does one have to disassemble a spool to get that?
Sid
Man, I've wasted a lot of time trying to crack that nut Sid. There is no seam so the cork (or sometimes it is a very light wood) is put on the arbor before the flange is pressed into place. I would be terrified to disassemble a spool.
At one time, ABU, Shakespeare and probably other companies had plastic spacers that came in two halves and just snapped into place. They actually work pretty well.
I've tried to make something similar with wood and cork but don't have a precision lathe and can never get them true (perfectly round) and balanced. If the spacer is not true there will be more line on one side than the other and the spool will be unbalanced. If the spool is not balanced you can feel it wobble when casting, it decreases performance and probably causes undue wear to the shaft and bearings.
To make things more tricky, cork and wood are not uniform material so the spacer can be true, but still not balanced due to one side being a denser material than the other. If you start out with a spacer that is true, you can use dynamic balancing (like spin balancing the tire on a car) to add weight to one side. Just spin the spool and let it come to a stop. The odds are it will stop with the heavy side down. Mark the spool with a spot of ink and keep repeating the process until you see a clear grouping of ink spots on one side. Insert a small weight into the spacer on the opposite side and then start the whole process over to verify it's balanced.
-steve
So, I made a light rod for for the Tournament Free Spool. It's a split bamboo blank, nine feet, spliced in the middle where a ferrule should be, minimalist wire guides with silk wrap, calcutta cane handle with some old Cuttyhunk and a piece of roofing lead pounded into a butt cap.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSl.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSm.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSn.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSo.jpg)
I still don't know how to cast and could not control the reel with a quarter ounce jig so bring out the magnets. The magnets are Neodymium 52 size 1/4 inch diameter X 1/16 inch thick. Eight magnets was way too much. Four (+-+-) is about right and I'm getting 31 to 32 yards thumb free. It may be possible to squeeze out another yard with one less magnet but I haven't tried that yet.
I learned that you cannot heat these magnets. I was using a hot air gun with a hot glue stick to attach the magnets. Not sure of the temperature but it was probably about 250F. After heating the magnets they lost a lot of their strength. This is probably why it took so many adjustments and why I ended up with so much magnet in the Standard Professional Free Spool. Every time one was heated it became weaker.
After putting down the hot air gun I tried PC-11 marine epoxy, but it takes a long time to cure. Super glue is quick and is good enough for now. The magnets can be manipulated and added one at a time with a long doll needle. The little piece of line in the photo is to keep the magnet from sucking up against its neighbor and keep it away from the clicker spring while the glue dries.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSq.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSr.jpg)
While the Standard Profession Free Spool is too large, the Tournamnt Free Spool with cork spacer is almost too small. I had to reduce the line size to twelve pound Dacron in order to load 110 yards leaving enough room to accommodate inconsistent line leveling. It palms really well though and is so small that the thumb can be used to spread and level the line from the top while retrieving.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSp.jpg)
I hoped to show you a bonefish photo. A medium size one was hooked and got to the stage of circling the canoe. The rod did well enough and all of the bend was down in the lower half when the fish was running. The rest of the rod was pointing at the fish, including that sketchy splice in the blank. Then at one point, the fish was coming around the stern, the rod was bending to the right. I was watching the fish and cranking, but didn't notice that line was piling up on the right side of the spool (because the rod was bent to the right). All of a sudden the retrieve rate went to almost nothing. Drat, the small line had slipped under the spool flange and wound around the shaft. When I pulled on it the line broke from under the flange and I was left holding the end with a fish attached. For a moment I had visions of hand lining the fish in but it took off again and sliced my finger as the line slipped away.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSs.jpg)
It's almost a fatal flaw. The reel will not hold enough thick line and thin line can slip under the spool. But everything was fine until I let the rod bend to the side without leveling the line. Maybe it is not a fatal flaw, but just one more thing to remember.
-steve
Steve, I always learn something from your posts. Thanks.
Without a drag, a fish can steel a lot of line if it can get going fast enough to burn your thumb. While trying to cool the thumb or switch hands and avoid the knuckle buster the fish will take advantage. Being a hero about it doesn't work because you'll only turn a burning thumb into a blistered thumb. This reel does not have any line to spare for the task at hand and I'm a wuss, so I made a miniature thumb stall.
-steve
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSt.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSu.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSv.jpg)
Really enjoying the "Adventures of Steve"...I seem to remember someone doing something like this on a freshwater baitcaster, maybe it was an ABU.....but cannot find the post.....Bill
Quote from: TARFU on March 26, 2017, 08:31:15 PM
Really enjoying the "Adventures of Steve"...I seem to remember someone doing something like this on a freshwater baitcaster, maybe it was an ABU.....but cannot find the post.....Bill
Aaahhhaaa....I found it,
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=18635.0
I remember that tread Bill. Thank you for finding it. The whiffle arbor made out of curtain rod is beyond my abilities though.
-steve
Hey Steve....whats the worst thing that could happen ::) Except the wife finding her curtain rods are missing ;D Bill
Bill, getting that arbor centered would be really difficult. If it's off by 1/32 you will feel the imbalance when casting.
Also, super glue didn't work for holding magnets. One came loose, shifted around and was rubbing on the spool. It was windy and choppy so I didn't want to take the reel apart on the water for fear of loosing one of the screws. Instead, the spool was shifted to the right a bit using the end caps. That reduced the rubbing, but made a larger gap between spool and tail plate so the line went under the spool again. The line under the spool pulled the rest of the magnets off and they all jumped on top of each other. Back to the marine epoxy.
-steve
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSw.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSx.jpg)
Quote from: oc1 on March 28, 2017, 08:08:55 AM
Bill, getting that arbor centered would be really difficult. If it's off by 1/32 you will feel the imbalance when casting.
Also, super glue didn't work for holding magnets. One came loose, shifted around and was rubbing on the spool. It was windy and choppy so I didn't want to take the reel apart on the water for fear of loosing one of the screws. Instead, the spool was shifted to the right a bit using the end caps. That reduced the rubbing, but made a larger gap between spool and tail plate so the line went under the spool again. The line under the spool pulled the rest of the magnets off and they all jumped on top of each other. Back to the marine epoxy.
-steve
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSw.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSx.jpg)
Ouch! That would put a damper on an otherwise glorious day! :o
The white line in the first photos was 12# braided dacron. I gave up on it because it is so prone to abrasion in shallow water. No stretch, great sensitivity and hook setting, but dacron is just too delicate in situations where it could touch the bottom. So I switched to 12# braided nylon; the black line in the photos. Nylon is not as prone to abrasion, but it stretches a lot. In the smaller sizes it is like fishing with a rubber band.
I finally found a few fish and hooked two but pulled the hook on both. The next time I used the reel there was a big depression on the spool's line lay. Turns out the stretched nylon had compressed or collapsed one side of the cork arbor. Luckily, the thin aluminum spool flanges were still OK.
The spool was put in a drill motor chuck and turned against a piece of coarse sand paper to make it round again. It's sort of round again but not perfect and needs more work. I was afraid of bending the shaft and need to set up some sort of tail block to stabilize the other end of the shaft as it is turned. Having a tool rest like a real lathe would be nice too.
Funny thing is I like the reel more now than before. Even though it's not perfectly round there is more spool capacity. It's now loaded with 120 yards of spectra so its less likely line will slip behind the flange.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSy.jpg)
-steve
Then, there's this one. Shakespeare Tournament Free Spool from 1936. It is more refined than the 1931 model. High chrome, fancy head plate, swirled translucent knobs, and a new clutch. Please excuse the spectra line, floro leader and thumb stall in the photos.... it didn't come that way.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSza.jpg)
[im]http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzb.jpg[/img]
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzc.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSze.jpg)
Pull the handle outward about a quarter inch to disengage the main gear from the pinion. There are spring catches so it clicks into place when engaged or disengaged.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzf.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzg.jpg)
Many reel makers started using this clutch during this period. Penn No. 15 had the same configuration. It's simple, but if those spring catches ever wear out or get gummed up you can mess up the gears in a hurry.
The spool arbor is made of wood rather than cork. It is very light, but I don't recognize the type of wood.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzi.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzj.jpg)
The bearing blocks are not solid but have a bronze bushing. Here is the weirdest thing. The end of the spool shaft on the tail side is ground flat instead of being tapered to a point. I didn't understand it until casting. If the tension knobs are backed off so there is a little play in the spool, the free spool will be great when the reel is tilted to the right and the tapered right end of the spool shaft is riding on the jewel. But, if the reel is tilted to the left, the spool shifts to the left, and the flattened end of the spool shaft rides on the jewel. This is like a casting drag and decreases free spool by about 25%. So, if you're really talented, you can tilt the reel to the left during the cast to slow the spool.
Well, I'm not talented so I put in a brass bushing with a little tit to override the flattened spool end. It still doesn't cast quite as well as the 1931 model.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzk.jpg)
-steve
I love reading your adventures Steve. I'll have to remember super glue is a no-no for the magnets.
I've only used two part epoxy...and no failures so far...knock on wood! 8)
Excellent work and pics, Steve --
Good observations for all of us to know, also...
Best,
Fred
You've developed a cool and fun demension to your angeling experiences. I'ma call it "Antique Angeling". It also looks like you're having too much fun for me not to be inspired by it. Perhaps it's time to get that circa 1910 Bluegrass no.25 out on the water and start playin with it. Any good sources for some a that Antique fishin line I've seen in some your posts from the past?
Gfish
Mo, last time I used PC-11 epoxy and it seems OK.
Gfish, it's really difficult to find vintage line that is still good. All the silk, linen and other natural fiber line has deteriorated now. Braided nylon was introduced about 1937 and braided Dacron was introduced a year or so later. Some vintage nylon and Dacron is still good enough to fish with. But, you can also buy brand new braided nylon and Dacron that is identical to the vintage stuff (try Mason Tackle). For trolling, braided Dacron is a pleasure to fish with. But, every knot must start with a Bimini Twist because the line will dig into itself and fray. I think the Bimini twist was invented for Dacron.
-steve
I'll add that I, too, am enjoying the adventures of Steve's antique angling.
Sid
I've discovered that this book has a chapter on how to make a cork/balsa arbor. I don't have the book. https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Bass-Fishing-Jason/dp/1417994657
Sid
Quote from: sdlehr on April 23, 2017, 12:38:59 AM
I'll add that I, too, am enjoying the adventures of Steve's antique angling.
Sid
Me, too, although I would really like to observe the entire process while under imbibement. Steve's that is. ;D
I've been focusing more on the bamboo rods lately but using the Tournament Free Spool reels on a regular basis. They are much smaller in the hand than the Standard Professional Free Spool although they all get about the same distance.
Every time you pick up a reel with bearing blocks it helps to oil it again. I usually forget to do that before leaving and end up removing the end caps to oil the shafts/bearings while bouncing around in a canoe. One advantage of the drilled Standard Professional with all the internal organs exposed is that it's a snap to oil. The bearings and gears can be reached with an oil applicator tip without opening to removing anything. I'm wondering......
-steve
I've noticed that I don't need to imbibe to do questionable or even outright dumb stuff. But, if I do imbibe, it only makes it worse!
Yeah, but it's the best excuse for doing stupid stuff.
-steve
There should be some way to filter out the people who don't know what-the-heck they're talking about. Forget what I said above about the casting drag on the 1936 model Shakespeare Tournament Free Spool. I got another one of these and it is tuned or worn differently. In messing around with it I realized how it really works. The casting drag when the reel is tilted to the left is not a result of the flat spool shaft end rubbing on the jewel. There is a small shoulder on the outboard side of the clicker ratchet and it is that shoulder rubbing on the tail plate bearing that causes the drag on the spool.
One the second reel, when both jeweled end caps are tightened all the way down there is a few thousandths of side play in the spool, but the clicker ratchet shoulder cannot contact the brass tail plate bearing. When the reel is tilted to the left the flat end of the spool shaft rides on the jewel but the free spool is still good. Now I'm wondering if it really matters what the end of the spool shaft looks like (pointed or flat). But, when the tail plate end cap is loosened, the spool can shift to the left and the clicker ratchet comes into contact with the bearing.
On the first 1936 model reel (photos above), the end of the spool shaft has been filed or worn so tightening the end cap all the way down does not prevent the clicker ratchet from contacting the bearing. The dimpled spacer I put in (there's a picture of that somewhere up above) allows the end cap to move the spool to the right so the ratchet shoulder cannot contact the bearing.
I love these reels. It's like reel nirvana. I accumulated four of them (two 1931 and two 1936 models) and don't even look at the auctions any more. I take two of them out fishing each trip and have two for back up or two in need of cleaning. I still need to come up with a better system of keeping them lubricated. Two screws must be removed to open the 1931 model but five small screws must be removed to open the 1936 model. If the side plate is removed to lubricate or clean after every use the screws are going to start getting sloppy.
The split bamboo rods are another story and definitely not nirvana. Hell maybe. From top to bottom in the photo:
A) 1936 reel on South Bend 9' fly rod blank with oak handle extending to 10'. The original cork fly rod grip is now a baitcasting rod foregrip. This was probably a salmon rod and would be equivalent to a what they call six or eight weight today. It broke today casting a jig tied on a 3/8 ounce weight. It had been broken and repaired twice before.
B) 1936 reel on a Horrocks Ibbotson Governor 9' fly rod blank. It was probably about a four weight fly rod. Extended to 10' with a Phyllostachys bamboo handle from the yard. It broke on a medium bonefish today. It had been broken and repaired before.
(C) 1931 reel on a no-name 9' fly rod. About four weight. Extended to 10' with a Calcutta cane handle. Broken and repaired before.
(D) 1931 reel on a cane pole. The pole is Calcutta cane (Dendrocalamus strictus) with a Phyllostachys aurea cane tip section. Phyllostachys aurea is the type of cane pole you might find in the corner tackle shop. The tip has a nice fast action but not much strength. But, if you hook up and the tip section is pointing straight at the fish you will be fighting the fish with the Calcutta cane. The Calcutta cane has a lot of strength and will never break.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzn.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzo.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzp.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzq.jpg)
-steve
Steve, thanks for the heat/magnet tip. Btw. .....nice rig! Love hearing those ol rods moan n groan under load! Or mine do anyhow, maybe theyre about to break! lol
Wow i just found this tread . Had to look up the word imbibe, come to find out it`s something i have been doing for 45 years ....
For the oiling problem ,is it possible to make little felt washers to put on the shafts... Or a small piece in the end caps ....
Something like you would see in a electric motor ? Love the boo poles The reel rims , can you build them up some with expoye and sand to fit ? joe
I almost sent you a pm Joe because you asked about the bamboo on another thread somewhere.
Some old bait casting reels had a piece of material in the end cap to hold oil. I've seen deteriorated ones, but have never seen a new or good one. Cutting a little piece of felt would be worth a try.
You could probably reinforce and fix those hard rubber rings because they're just spacers and don't support much. Never tried it though. There are a lot of candidates for repair out there because ring shrinkage seems to be a common problem that makes old reels rub and bind.
-steve
:) I just pickup a 1958 triumph ,just because i liked the handle and side plate color for $9.00
Lexan - plexaglass -corian would make nice side pates. Question how interchangeable are the parts ,especially the spools and end caps
::) Now i why your thumb looked so big in the picture, i didn`t realize how small the reel is .... a picture joe
I have one the same color (bought for the same reason) but can't remember the model off hand. Don't know what the material is. It's not hard rubber, might be catlin or might be something else. Those tend to crack instead of shrink.
Some Shakespeare parts will interchange. That same end cap and handle will fit many reels. Sometimes spools and gears can be swapped.
Size is one of the things I like most about the little Tournament Free Spool. It tucks nicely into the hand. If you can cup your hand around the reel, then you can use your thumb and forefinger to level the line while supporting the rod. The balance point of the rod is under the reel spool so it's very comfortable and ergonomic. It can be fished like a modern palming reel.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzr.jpg)
-steve
:) :) This picture justs inspires me to make another bamboo pole . I like old school fishing..... joe
I managed to destroy my favorite reel with only five months of abuse and neglect. Shakespeare Tournament Free Spool 1744 as discussed above. It had the factory cork arbor that had been reshaped and the original owner and dilled some holes in the spool flange. I had been into it several times for grease and oil change, but when the line was removed....
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzt.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzu.jpg)
I cut the arbor off and...
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzv.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzw.jpg)
A once-over with a rotary brass brush...
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFSzx.jpg)
This must be why they call them freshwater reels. Live and learn
-steve
Ouch!
That saltwater is evil.
I wonder if you could consider an anodizing, poweder coating, or even paint job on one you like before using it? Just don't tell the collectors ;)
I agree with John...just paint that spool. It's already been drilled full of holes by that previous owner...you can't hurt it's value. Make a new arbor, or just wind on some backing, and fish that bad boy! 8)
I'll do something. They are sweet little reels and I'd hate to give it up.
-steve
I keep thinking about the Standard Professional Free Spool with all the internal organs exposed (page 1) and am wondering how it would hold up to frequent use and abuse. Trouble is, the reel is just too large for the task at hand. They called it a 100 yard reel, but it is a really big 100 yard size.
It's difficult to get an idea of overall size from auction photos, but I got this Standard No.3, 80 yd, Quad. What sold me was the narrower spool and the hard rubber spacers. I forgot to take photos before opening it up so the photos with the redish background are from the auction listing:
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80a.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80b.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80c.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80d.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80e.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80f.jpg)
I could tell the reel is old by the handle but was not ready for the gears. They are unlike any other Shakespeare gears I have seen and are not nearly as finely cut as the brass main gear and steel pinion that became the Shakespeare standard for decades beginning in the 1910's. The clicker ratchet looks just like the pinion and the clicker mechanism is more complicated than need be so it could be turned on by a thumb dial in the hard rubber spacer. Both clicker ratchet and pawl had been ruined, probably by casting with the clicker on.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80g.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80h.jpg)
Another thumb dial on the head plate controlled a friction casting brake. The dial has a ramp that pushes a spring loaded brake shoe against the spool flange. The brake shoe had worn through so it was bare metal gouging the spool flange.
The screws on the reel foot were a little loose and the whole frame was slightly twisted making the spool rub on the side plate rings. I was told the reel is pre-1910 and "collectable in any condition".
The hard rubber spacers and casting brake were removed and when the stand and posts were reassembled the twist came out of the frame.... thank goodness. Later, the clicker was also removed because it was pretty much useless.
The intention was to transplant a Koph clutch from a Standard Professional Free Spool into the Standard 80. But a new linkage strip between the gear bridge and the clutch lever was going to have to be made so I ended up just making a whole new clutch from scratch using some german silver plate. An oiled leather washer was put under the clutch lever to give it a smooth action
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80t.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80s.jpg)
The Koph is not as dependable as what we're used to today. When put into gear, that notch in the lever provides a stop and it is held in gear by wedging the lever into that bend in the linkage strip to create tension. When put into free spool, the lever again wedges itself into that bend in the linkage. The linkage is thin material and designed to be a little flexible to maintain tension. The clutch will never accidentally slip into gear when casting. It will never slip out of gear when retrieving line. But, there is something about a strong fish making a fast run that makes it want to slip out of gear. I don't understand the physics of why it happens, but it has happened with the Standard Professional Free Spool and two different Tournament Free Spool 1744. It's not a big deal if you are prepared for it because the spinning pinion somehow throws the main gear out and there is no grinding or damage
The spool was drilled and a cork arbor added. In these photos it did not have the final version of the clutch lever and the clicker apparatus had not yet been removed.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80p.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80q.jpg)
The reel was put on a eleven foot Calcutta cane rod with Chinese cane tip section. The reel works fine and I'm satisfied with the mechanics and casting. It palms better than the larger Standard Professional, but does not fit in the hand and palm as well as the little Tournament Free Spool 1744's. Perhaps the best thing about this exercise is that I realized any small knuckle buster with a bridge can be turned into a free spool reel. A follow-up project is under way.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80u.jpg)
-steve
Great work Steve, it takes a lot of skill and patience to design and make connecting parts like that. I'm guessing there was a bit of trial and error you haven't mentioned. You did mention a cast control system - "Another thumb dial on the head plate controlled a friction casting brake. The dial has a ramp that pushes a spring loaded brake shoe against the spool flange." Did you get any photos of it, or more importantly, do you think it could be copied or adapted to make an adjustable magnet holder to mag other reels?
Mike
Yeah Mike, I made two levers and two or three linkage strips before getting it to work. The tedious part is putting all the parts together to find where it is rubbing, taking it apart to grind off a corner, then putting all back together to test fit again, repeat and repeat.
I forgot to take photos of the worn friction drag but here is one from another reel. It could work as a magnet adjustment as well.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80i.jpg)
I cheat by using magnets and should have included a photo of them too. I glue three to five magnet wafers to the side plate then stack more wafers on top to get the correct height. With 1/16 inch thick wafers you can fine tune it fairly well. Its a special purpose reel that is only used to cast 5/16 to 3/8 ounce jigs so once the magnets are tuned it is not adjusted.
-steve
The "Adventures of Steve" continue.....good job brother....Enjoy reading your posts...Bill
One more thing... This photo shows how bad I am at spacing and drilling holes and how bad Shakespeare was at making pinions prior to about 1910. That's a fairly soft and unburnished solder used to secure the pinion to the arbor and spindle. The other end of the spool is just like it.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80v.jpg)
A few years later the pinions looked like this and remained so for about five decades except that about 1937 they started using a spiral cut.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/SC34.jpg)
-steve
Thanks Steve - a lot of interesting and uncomplicated engineering in those older reels. Uncomplicated enough to tempt us to copy it at home.
Mike
Steve, I always find your experiments and creations with antique reels and cane rods fascinating, particularly with the photos I've seen of the bonefish you catch on them.
I have a Shakespeare 1920 Wondereel model HB (level wind). Have you ever experimented with one of those?
Model HB means it was made in 1939, the year the first Wondereel was produced. They changed over the years but kept the Wondereel name for a long time. I don't have one but have been wondering what kind of casting brake they have. If you open yours post some photos of it.
-steve
I'll try to get into it soon and take some photos. I'm familiar with their dating code and understand the '39 date. 1920 was the model number, even though they etched or stamped it into the side of the reel as "Model HB."
Sorry about that. Shakespeare is great because the approximate manufacture date is usually provided. But there was always some four-digit number beginning with 19 but having nothing to do with the date making them difficult to discuss. Are we supposed to call both of them model numbers?
I ask about the Wondereel brake because they were babbling about advanced thumb-free casting when it came out. From the outside, it appears there is something special about the tail plate bearing and the head plate spool tension knob.
-steve
Standard 80 modifications were made a month or so ago. I remember you were discussing Loctite at the time and I was concerned about keeping the sliding bridge nut and bolt snug without binding and without being rattled loose. I ended up just peening the end of the screw with a punch. They may be ruined when removed, but it is only a thirteen cent screw from the local hardware.
Anyway, the next steam punk winch victim was a Tru-Form.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFa.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFc.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFd.jpg)
Don't ask me what a Tru-form is as I've never heard of them. They are not very well made though. I bought it because it is marked '40' on the foot. However, it is about the same size as most 100 yard reels of the time.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFe.jpg)
It features a friction casting brake with an adjustment knob on the head plate and one of those bars across the front that shuts down the spool when the lure hits the water. That didn't work because it had a home made spring that was much too stiff.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFb.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFf.jpg)
The clicker was worn to a nub so it was removed too.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFg.jpg)
The plastic handle knobs were frozen and riveted in place. They were worked loose but one knob would still bind with every turn so they were just cut off.
The levelwind was removed leaving some big holes right where I wanted to put a new post. So, some pieces of german silver were cut and soldered into the holes to fill them.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFh.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFi.jpg)
The rim was cut off the head plate cup and a home made Koph clutch was installed.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFj.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFk.jpg)
The tail plate was cut down to lower the height and make the reel more comfortable to palm. A cross post (the levelwind wire guide post) was lost when the tail plate was trimmed so a new post was added in the front where it would be out of the way.
The clutch lever and bridge screws needed to be snug, but not binding. Rather than penning them down, some rustic thumb screws were made from brass nuts. The back end of the bolts were soldered to the lever or bridge to keep them from turning when the thumb screws were tightened. This provided external adjustment of those things that need just the right amount of tension.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFl.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFm.jpg)
A floating brass sleeve was put over the gear sleeve under the handle.... for looks and stability. Some sections of bamboo were cut for handle knobs. They have a brass sleeve inside and ride on a brass screw that is peened in place on the handle arm.
Since the clicker is gone, I made a simple wire stop latch to secure the spool when traveling.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFn.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFo.jpg)
Next came a wood arbor to fill up the spool and neodymium magnets glued under the tail plate.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFp.jpg)
Then came a ten foot rod with Caclutta cane base, Chinese cane tip section, home made wire guides, wrapped with some old silk casting line and cotton twine.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFq.jpg)
What are you supposed to do if there are parts left over when you finish?
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFr.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFs.jpg)
It ain't pretty, but I was satisfied. It feels much better in the hand than the big Standard 80. This was my favorite reel for a time. Catching a fish was uneventful. Maybe it was too easy.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TFt.jpg)
I'm starting to feel sorry for the bonefish again. Maybe using new fangled stuff like a clutch is not sporting. I think I'm going to abandon the free spool reels and only use
the regular knuckle busters where the handle spins backward while casting. It's a sad state of affairs when you have to tie one hand behind your back to have fun.
-steve
Just want to say how much I've enjoyed reading this thread ! I love fishing with my "old" equipment, and it's obvious that you do, too ! You have taken "tackle tinkering" to new heights !
:) Love the steam punk look "form follows function" Well done Steve
Wow Steve :o...Some day you need to get the "Steam Punk Family" together for a photo....Bill
Steve, you may be one of the most resourceful people I know. Excellent work!
Sid
Clever shade tree engineering at its finest!
Bravo Steve! 8)
That's fascinating, Steve. Now you've got me playing around with my old Wondereel. I opened it up and took some photos of its internals, then greased & lubed the few essential parts. Will post the pics as soon as I can edit through them and figure out how to store them in this forum's photo base.
Took it out in the backyard and did some casting with it, which was somewhat of a revelatory experience --and I had fun doing it. I threw a plug close to 100 feet fairly consistently with relative smoothness, which impressed me, considering the spool momentum during a cast is also moving the level wind and turning the crank handle backwards. It does require considerable thumb control to avoid backlashing. I'd need a pair of pliers to tighten down the small spool tension knob further. It cranks line in relatively smoothly, too. I could catch fish with this. How do you deal with a bonefish run on one of these reels? Mine has a fairly large diameter cork in the arbor. The old black line (nylon braid or silk?) on it is in remarkably good shape.
To determine if it is silk or nylon, just burn the end. Nylon will bubble up and dry in a hard lump. Silk will leave an ash that can be flicked away.
I need to throw a light jig so I forfeit the levelwind. But, to level the line manually and in comfort I have to be able to palm it. To palm it, it has to be small. Most 100 yard reels are too big.
The spinning main gear and handle may be negotiable. Sometimes I cast the old free spool reels with the clutch engaged; either intentionally or by mistake. It is handy when you need to cast over your shoulder or directly into a stiff wind. The spooky part is that I have accidentally forgotten to put the clutch in free spool on what was to be a long downwind cast and the distance is about the same with the handle spinning backward. The trouble is, you can't depend on it and if the lubrication is not just right it will either bog down or make a horrible squalling noise. Making consistent casts with a free spool is much easier than making consistent casts with a spinning handle.
-steve
Here are some pics of the '39 Shakespeare 1920 model Wondereel. There's not a clutch on it that I can see, but so far this is my only experience disemboweling a reel this old. Removing the level wind would be easy enough, but I'm not sure how you would disengage the reverse turning handle when casting.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/medium_17264_28_08_17_1_26_54_213931487.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/17264_28_08_17_1_25_52_213901997.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/17264_28_08_17_1_25_49_21386997.jpeg)
Steve that stuff is amazing. I have a bunch of them old reels and you using them is just cool.
Thank you Keith.
The Wondereel is sort of interesting and puzzling. The tail plate bushings is not fixed and can be removed. Is that a removable bushing on the shaft next to the pinion gear too? Shakespeare was advertising bushings that can be replaced about that time. From the photos, it looks like the bushings are not brass or bronze. Are they steel? A soft metal? Could they be graphite? Modern industrial bushing can be powdered bonze and graphite bonded inside a steel casing. But, I don't know what they had to choose from in 1939.
It could be modified with a clutch the same as the reels above. Since there is a removable bridge, most the work is already done. I wouldn't start cutting on a reel with sentimental value though. It doesn't take long to find a used one for cheap at the auction. Looks like you're using yours as it was intended. They can be a lot of fun.
-steve
A bit late to the party, but your work on the Tru-form '40' is inspirational Steve. I had a good laugh as you worked your way through the reel, laying to waste any part that looked remotely surplus to your needs and then turning what was left into a fully functional reel - great stuff! Thanks for the commentary and detailed photos.
Mike
There are no 'before' photos for this because I didn't really think it would work. But, the 'before' was a 100 yard spool from a late depression era Shakespeare Criterion baitcaster. They are pretty common and inexpensive. Also, the same spool was used in many models for many years.
The clicker ratchet was heated and twisted and pulled until it was worked off. They are just press fit in place. Then a peened lip under the ratchet was ground off. More heat, more twisting, more pulling and the two-piece flange was worked off. The shoulder piece where the flange meets the arbor is shaped like a mushroom. The shoulder you see is the mushroom cap and the mushroom stem is a sleeve that slides onto the arbor. The flange itself goes on over the mushroom stem and then the end of the stem is peened down to secure it all.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/narrow1.jpg)
On the arbor you can see a ridge that the shoulder stops against when it is slid into place. A section of arbor was shaved down so the shoulder and flange could slide further into the arbor.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/narrow2.jpg)
After the shoulder and flange were slid farther onto the arbor they were brazed into place.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/narrow3.jpg)
The pinion side spindle was put in the chuck of my new precision lathe.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/narrow4.jpg)
The piece of arbor sticking out on the clicker side was turned against a mill bastard file and emery paper until it was the same diameter as the original spindle
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/narrow5.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/narrow6.jpg)
I'll cut the spindle to lenght and shape the end after the frame is built. The flange shifted while being brazed and is a little crooked; about five thousandths. But the spool is balanced and the spindles are straight. The flange will be drilled eventually and I think it is going to work fine. The spool capacity is about half what it was. For me, this changes everything.
-steve
Great work Steve, you're on a roll with innovative modifications! Great lathe as well, I've filed a few round things in a drill press without using a 'tailstock' and it hasn't turned out as neat as that. Did you use a rest of some sort to keep the file level?
Mike
Vintage reels and vintage tools, it doesn't get any better. Good job Steve!
Sal
Resourceful innovation should be your middle name, Steve. Very impressive!
:) "reason not to imbibe" Ha It`s the mother of invention. Love the multi tool adapter you made..... keep up the good work...
A hat rack you do not have..... joe
Is that an old Porter Cable or Rockwell 'lathe'?
My guess.... Black and Decker sold through Sears in 1971. I bought it new but it was retired many years ago. Sometimes we save things. Still had my social security number etched in the side. That was a thing back then.
No tool rest yet. The tool rest is sold as an add-on. The red button that pins down the trigger gets stuck so I run it off a foot pedal for the Foredom tool. It took some time to get the remains of a mud dauber nest out of the chuck.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on March 13, 2017, 11:01:46 AMThere are four stacks of two magnets in a +-+- arrangement.
Steve: So what effect does the "+ -" arrangement have compared to all magnets facing the same way?
I've magged a couple of reels but have always used a single magnet so never needed to worry about the polarity arrangement. I use flat super-powerful magnets taken from old computer hard drives. This one was glued using super glue gel. It's held well, but both surfaces were perfectly flat and were thoroughly cleaned of any oils.
Keep on tinkering man!
I didn't think it would work without the plus-minus thing but really don't know. It is based on Lenz's Law. You can find plenty of information on Lenz's Law but I've never seen it explained in simple enough terms for me to understand.
The neodymium discs are not expensive at K.J. Magnetics.
-steve
Polarity only comes into play when multiple magnets are used...and I'm not sure it's even noticeable then...at least in my experiments it didn't shine. The whole Lenz Law thing is tough to understand. Broken down to layman's terms: When a metallic body spins in a magnetic field it's spin will be opposed by that magnetic field. Is that layman's terms? HA! Still sounds like an insurance company denial! An aluminum spool is easiest to control with magnets. It has less inertia than that old heavy chrome spool. 8)
That's actually a really good explanation Mike. Thank you.
Also, they have magnets with a countersunk hole in the center of the disc. So, the magnets can be screwed to the side plate instead of using glue. Then more discs can be stacked on top if they are needed.
-steve
I just read this thread. I think it's pretty cool stuff you did here & then you to take it fishing. Pretty good stuff.
Quote from: mo65 on September 03, 2017, 07:26:17 PM Polarity only comes into play when multiple magnets are used...and I'm not sure it's even noticeable then...at least in my experiments it didn't shine. The whole Lenz Law thing is tough to understand. Broken down to layman's terms: When a metallic body spins in a magnetic field it's spin will be opposed by that magnetic field. Is that layman's terms? HA! Still sounds like an insurance company denial! An aluminum spool is easiest to control with magnets. It has less inertia than that old heavy chrome spool. 8)
Hey Mo, ya can't get any more laymanish then that, lol. I would have figured that opposing fields would cancel each other out and reduce the effect though. One of these days I'll have to dabble in changeable multiple magnets using my 500S Jiggy with the quick-release left side plate.
On a side-note, with all the after-market fancy aluminum Jigmaster plates out there, nobody has come out with a quick-release version like the original, so that's still an irreplaceable feature of the originals.
Quote from: nelz on September 04, 2017, 04:36:48 PM
I would have figured that opposing fields would cancel each other out and reduce the effect though.
Well...on paper it would seem so...but like many things in the real world...it's not so "black and white". It's probably similar to two speakers that are wired out of phase. They don't actually cancel each other out, but produce a weaker, thin sound. Even though I never really noticed a change when swapping polarity, I still run all my magged reels with polarity as suggested. 8)
The narrow spool Shakespeare Criterion is not working out as well as I had hoped. I realized that the arbor had not been trimmed back far enough when turning the new spindle. When I went back to cut off more material my hand slipped and I gouged the spindle with the file.
I had three Criterion parts reels. One from circa 1922, a 1924 and a 1937 model. The stand from 1922 is one piece and would not work. The 1924 model stand would have been perfect except it was already scavenged for another project. So, I used the 1937 stand which had broken and been repaired by a previous owner with a drill, pop rivet and some soft plumbers solder.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/narrow8.jpg)
The stand was not square so it had to be disassembled and brazed. I didn't do much better than the last owner in getting it straight. The stand posts were cut down, drilled and tapped for 4-40 screws. I can't drill a straight hold to save my life and need to work on that.
The circa 1937 reel bridge had been scavenged previously and the older models did not have a bridge so one was fabricated. The gear shaft that had been peened to the frame plate was removed and brazed to the new bridge. The bridge was made to reach the clutch lever without a linkage. This part worked out OK.
This time the clutch lever was supported by both the face plate and the frame plate. This makes the lever feel very solid; better then the Shakespeare factory Koph clutch levers.
The handle I was missing one knob so a counterweight was added. I think I like the counterweight handles better than the double handles. With a counterweight the handle can be a little shorter without having it bump my knuckles as it is cranked. A shorter handle can be cranked faster to compensate for the slow gear ratio and low IPT. Since the thumb can only create about three pounds of drag without being burned, I do not need a lot of cranking power. I need cranking speed.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/narrow10.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/narrow11.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/narrow12.jpg)
The tail plate was cut down as before.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/narrow13.jpg)
With the spool flange a little crooked and the stand a little crooked it was really difficult to get things lined up. I ended up with so many little shims and spacers that the reel is really difficult to assemble. And, there are huge gaps between the flange and side plate where line can get under the spool. To top it all off, the reel does not cast as well as the steam punk Tru-Form above. That reel (the Tru-Form) is casting better all the time as the bushings are breaking in. "Breaking in" is a kind way of saying that the bushings are wearing to accommodate my small misalignments. But still, it is one of the longest casting reels I have.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/narrow14.jpg)
I will say that the narrow spool version is really comfortable and tucks into the palm nicely. I'll stick with it for a while to see if the casting distance can be improved while keeping an eye out for the next reel victim.
-steve
This is a great thread, Steve, I hope some day it is made into a movie!
The way Steve is taking along on his journey....how about a Sticky.. :D Bill
No, please Bill. There is more to come but I might remove it all myself when I sober up and get back on the straight and narrow.
-steve
Every now and then an"altered state of conscious" type of thinking and inspiration produces great creations.
Just listened awhile back to what I think was the pinnacle of the 'Stones musical creativity: the (probably)opiate drenched "Exile on Main Street" recording-rock/pop/folk genius.
Gfish
Edit disclaimer: I'm not at all advocating drug use for creative thinking/actions!
I hate this narrowed spool reel. No, I hate myself for having wasted so much time on it. I should have started over when the spool flange came out crooked. I should have started over again when the stand was screwed up and when the spindle was gouged. You can't make a decent reel out of junk parts. But I stuck with it and threw good after bad.
On the second or third fishing trip the conditions were not very good, I was not hopeful and the reel would not cast very far at all. So, I started playing around with the spool bushing end caps shifting the spool from one side to the other. I could make the left bushing quiet down and I could make the right bushing quiet down, but not both simultaneously. Then I started loosening and tightening screws to shift things around and decided that the reel would work much better if the frame was slightly wider and the distal ends of the spindles were riding in the bushings. Then the impossible happened and a modest fish was hooked. It was not uneventful. The frame twisted because of the loose screws and clutch kept jumping out of gear; not once but constantly. I had to hold the clutch lever in gear with my left thumb, level the line with the left index finger, crank with the right hand and just hope the line did not get under the spool. A larger fish would have eaten my lunch.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/narrow16.jpg)
A little success made me try again though and a whole new set of spacers were made to widen the frame a bit. Oops, the gap between the spool and the frame is much wider now. You can see daylight behind the spool. But it does cast better. I could not make it jump out of gear on the bench. When the lever is moved from free spool to engaged there is a little resistance as it goes over the hump. If you imagine a small radius arc slightly overlapping a larger radius arc they intersect at two points. The small arc is the movement of the clutch lever and the larger arc is the movement of the articulated bridge. The hump is that football-shaped area between the two arc intersections. I was counting on the hump to keep it in gear.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/narrow17.jpg)
One last try fishing and an little baby was caught. But, the reel was still jumping out of gear. The hump approach does not work so it will need a new clutch lever plan. That was enough for me. I removed the line, sprayed it with oil and put it on the shelf, where it will remain forever. But I got an idea.....
-steve
Hey man, that's the way I grew up fishin! Modifying junk! lol, sorry for laughing but it reminds me of days long gone! Steve, keep it up man from my experience 1 out 5 end up actually working!
For those interested in the magnet thing, Lenz's Law. Alternating N/S/N etc polarity will produce a stronger effect than N/N/N etc or S/S/S etc. Alternating polarity reinforces the electromagnetic effect by producing stronger eddy currents in the metal spool. The eddy currents produce their own magnetic field which opposes the fixed magnet field -basically Newton's Third Law of electromagnetics:
The Left hand Rule (iirc)
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/c/cb/Left_hand_rule.png)
Does that make it clearer or more confusing :-\
Nice lathe Steve :)
The text makes it clear. The diagram not so much. Always wondered what exactly is an electromagnetic field?
Particles? Waves?
Gfish
The next victim was a Shakespeare Criterion (12640) 60 yard non-levelwind with quick take-apart made about 1912. It is nothing like the levelwind Criterion that was introduced about 1922 and remained popular for three or four decades. I had never seen a non-levelwind Criterion but have since seen photos of a 100 yard version built the same way.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60a.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60e.jpg)
It was fairly clean with small scratches, but the gears had a horrible growl and the spool flange was bent on the left side. You can see the gap between the tail plate and flange where it is bent. Apparently, the spool was damaged while it was out of the reel. Maybe it was dropped or rolled off the table. As it turned out, there is no connection between the growling gears and bent flange and one does not affect the other.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60b.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60c.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60d.jpg)
Still, it does not look bad and is about 105 years old. I would want it for the shelf if I were an old reel collector, or even a young handsome and debonair reel collector. It a shame really.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60f.jpg)
It was loaded with line and some magnets were glued under the hood for test casting. It felt pretty good owing to the small diameter. But, it would hardly cast at all and came up really short. The retrieve was slow too.
Later, it was put together on the bench without the gears it had really great free spool. So good that I decided to do a gear transplant.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60g.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60h.jpg)
This is the subject Criterion 60 on the left and a 100 yard 1924 model Universal Precision (23046) on the right. The Criterion 60 had an uncommon and dinky little gear set with 43 teeth on the main and 12 teeth on the pinion (3.6:1 gear ratio). The Universal Precision had a common 47 tooth main and 12 tooth pinion (3.9:1 gear ratio).
A reels with the 3.9:1 gear set were called a quadruple multiplier or just "Quad". The quad gear sets were used by several manufacturers. They never said 4:1 gear ratio, just quadruple multiplier. They may have been a little misleading, but there are good reasons not to have a 4:1 gear ratio with 48 teeth on the main and 12 teeth on the pinion. With 48 and 12 a tooth on the main gear would contact the same pinion tooth with every revolution. With 47 and 12 a tooth on the main gear will contact a different pinion tooth with every revolution. So, the 47 and 12 gear set will have more uniform gear wear. Still, they could have had the same effect with 49 and 12 gears.
A quadruple multiplier seems to be a reasonable trade-off between retrieve speed and casting performance in a direct drive reel. With higher gear ratios it is harder to get the spool and gears moving and harder to stop them. All else being equal, a lower gear ratio reel will cast better.
Anyway, the quad gear set needed to go into the Criterion. The bridge fit perfectly and the gear sleeve was centered in the collar on the outside of the head plate. But, because the main is a larger diameter it could not properly mesh with the pinion. The main gear needed to be moved away from the pinion.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60i.jpg)
To move the larger main gear away from the center just a millimeter or so a lot of things need to be modified. The two holes where the bridge is bolted to the head plate cup have to be re-drilled or elongated. The collar around the gear sleeve has to be removed, or one side ground away. The main gear is going to hit the side of the head plate cup so that will need to be cut away. And, the main gear is going to hit either a stand post or the forward quick take-apart post so that needs to be modified. Sound familiar? The same modifications have to be done to install a Koph clutch. Might as well go whole-hog then.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60l.jpg)
Doesn't look so nice now. It's a shame really. The head plate has a slot for the sliding bridge screw, there is a giant hole where the gear sleeve collar used to be and a cut out in the side of the cup where the gear protrudes. The forward quick take-apart post was hitting the main gear and replaced with a post threaded into the frame ring (the square tube spacer was later replaced with round). To stabilize the head plate cup it was screwed to the frame ring just above the main gear.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60k.jpg)
In the photo above, the brass nut on the lower left is the for the bridge screw that slides. The brass nut on the left is the stationary bridge screw.
The lower silver clutch plate is a linkage and is spring loaded to pull the bridge up and hold it in gear. The spring loaded bridge was going to solve all my problems with reels jumping out of gear when fighting a fish.
The upper silver plate is the clutch lever. Since the bridge is spring loaded, the lever needs a catch keep it from jumping into gear while casting. The catch is sort of like the Ambassadeur clutch button hack where you depress the button and then rock it back into a slot so it cannot engage prematurely. The photo below is the clutch when disengaged. The lever has been depressed to move the bridge and then rocked back so it is jammed against the rear quick take-apart post and cannot be pushed up by the spring.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60j.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60o.jpg)
A leather washer under the gear sleeve collar makes it crank smoothly. The uppermost brass thumb screw and the rear quick take-apart post open the side plate cup.
-steve
You're like the Mad Max of reel mods. Cool stuff.
The first set of magnets were removed to accommodate the clutch. The clutch plates were left as large a possible so there would be a place to put new magnets. Forget anything I may have said in the past about magnets with a countersunk hole that can be secured with screws instead of glue. The trouble with them is they have a huge hole in them so there is less neodymium. If the space is limited, you waste space with the hole and screw.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60p.jpg)
So, it was back to the five minute epoxy. I was having trouble getting enough magnets inside to make the reel usable for me.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60q.jpg)
The tail plate was filled up as well. I forgot to take a photo but it looked something like this:
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60r.jpg)
I think there a couple of thin ones glued to the top of the bridge too.
The reel cast like a bat coming out of a cave and was almost completely silent except for the sound of line whipping the guides. It is really long. Not just long for an old brass reel, long by any standard.
Like your work Steve! Plan what you want to do, in this latest modification a faster gear transplant and a Koph clutch, then set about making it happen and if it doesn't 'fit' ... well, it just doesn't fit yet. ;D ;D
Mike
Thank you Mike.
This thing was throwing a 3/8 ounce jig a solid 45 yards. This with a cane pole rod too. I thought I was imagining things and had to measure it. Now I'm starting to question all my flawed assumptions.
The clutch performed flawlessly for several hours of repetitive casting. It would stay put when disengaged and snap nicely back into gear after a cast, Then a fish picked up the jig and it all went to hell in a hand bag. The spring didn't help to keep it in gear at all. Holding the lever forward or pulling it up could not keep it engaged either. Lost the fish in the first ten seconds.
The clutch will need a new approach. In the mean time, the clutch was removed and the bridge screws were locked down making it a direct drive again. The magnets were removed again and new ones installed. It doesn't take nearly as many now and the clicker could be put back in. As a direct drive, it still casts pretty well. About 40 or 41 years with a 3/8 ounce jig. Even as a direct drive it casts as well as any reel discussed on this thread including the factory Tournament Free Spool 1744 and 1740.
Perhaps basic things like precision, tolerances and alignment trump all the gimmicks.
I've sort of had it with the magnets and do not intend to use them any more. They're sort of fun to play with. They're like little creatures that will jump out of your hand or jump across the bench to mate with their friends or hide under a pair of pliers. But gluing them is tedious and messy. Most of all I hate the notion of having to rely on space age neodymium encased in stainless steel. The aesthetics of it all just stinks. I need to either learn to cast without brakes or make a centrifugal brake.
This in the direct drive configuration.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/C60s.jpg)
-steve
Well,sometimes, success isn't measured by what we accomplish...but by what we do to TRY to accomplish it !
Quote from: oc1 on October 01, 2017, 09:09:18 AM
The upper silver plate is the clutch lever. Since the bridge is spring loaded, the lever needs a catch keep it from jumping into gear while casting. The catch is sort of like the Ambassadeur clutch button hack where you depress the button and then rock it back into a slot so it cannot engage prematurely.
Could you put a corresponding slot or notch of some sort on the 'front' of the lever so it could be lifted and rocked forward to lock it in the engaged position? I'm not going to pretend I know anything about the Koph clutch system - just throwing up an idea after looking and reading your description of what you've done so far.
Mike
The problem is the upper lever plate articulates on the lower plate that is attached to the bridge. With a fish pulling on the line there was nothing I could do to hold it in gear using the lever. I may have been possible to move and hold it in gear using the thumb screw that tensions the sliding bridge but you can't get your fingers under there with the handle spinning backward.
The very first use of free spool and a Koph clutch sort of arrangement did not have a lever. They loosened the bridge screw, pushed the bridge out of the way, then retightened the screw. This was done by tournament casters and everyone said it was not practical for actual fishing.
The Koph clutch arrangement is very simple and compact. But maybe it's too simple.
-steve
Steve, maybe a simplified tension spring arrangement would help solve the problem, or a place for the lever to lock, and be held in place with a flat spring. I am thinking of a simplified miesselbach approach. Then again, it might be easier to but anither Shakespear. BTW, I have been grabbing a few.. early boxed Marhoff (1964), Ideal (1963), and a Jupitor to get me started. I like the early level winds.
John
You'll have to explain John. This is the only kind of Miesselbach I know about.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPr.jpg)
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on October 03, 2017, 12:10:00 PM
I've sort of had it with the magnets and do not intend to use them any more. They're sort of fun to play with. They're like little creatures that will jump out of your hand or jump across the bench to mate with their friends or hide under a pair of pliers. But gluing them is tedious and messy. Most of all I hate the notion of having to rely on space age neodymium encased in stainless steel. The aesthetics of it all just stinks. I need to either learn to cast without brakes or make a centrifugal brake.
After all my experimentation with magnets for spool control...I have to say I've noted varying spool bearing lube viscosity worked just as well...and is much easier to perform...not to mention easily reversed. Keep experimenting Steve, all the great mods and improvements come from experimentation.8)
Excellent work, Steve. You've put a lot of time into this design, would not a search for a stiffer spring be the most logical remedy? Or another spring design finding some mechanical advantage to another orientation? Was there a similar problem with the original Kopf clutch? I have one or two upstairs, I will have to open them up and have a look in a few hours.
Sid
Quote from: oc1 on October 04, 2017, 07:50:37 AM
You'll have to explain John.
...
-steve
Steve,
I said Miesselbach, but was thinking of the way the Perez clutch was developed with tension springs to help keep the moving bridge in its position when the lever is thrown. I know this is a very different mechanism, but I was basically getting at using a spring (maybe a flat piece of spring metal), and a notch or 2 to keep the gears engaged or disengaged when the bridge is moved.
I am sure you have spent much more time thinking about this then me.
Keep up the hands on creative thinking.
Thanks John. Is the Perez the one that pulls (or pushes) both sides of the bridge (both bridge screws) at the same time?
-steve
The Pflueger reels I have with the Kopf clutch have an eccentric that moves the bridge with a very firm "on" and "off" that will not pop out when a fish is engaged with the line.
You said you could not keep the clutch engaged by pushing on the lever.... I'm not sure I understand the weak link here.... what exactly failed when this was going on? If the clutch won't stay engaged unless both bridge screws are locked down this is going to need an outside the box solution....
The bridge screws are locked down now because all the clutch parts have been removed.
When the main gear slipped away from the pinion, pushing the lever did not have enough leverage and the right angle to pull the main gear back into position. All pushing the lever does is allow the spring to take over and it is the spring that pulls the sliding bridge screw. The lever could not pull the sliding bridge screw itself because it is pulling at almost a right angle to the slot.
I'm thinking that it may have worked much better if the other bridge screw had been the one that slides. When the spinning pinion puts pressure on the main gear, the force is tangential. That tangential force was pulling against the stationary side of the bridge and pushing the sliding side of the bridge. It pushed the sliding side away from the pinion. If it were reversed, the tangential force would be pushing against the stationary side of the bridge and pulling the sliding side of the bridge inward toward the pinion. Need to draw a picture to explain better.
-steve
That was all from a few weeks back. Since then, I've been working on alternative to using magnets. Making a centrifugal clutch sounded easier than learning to thumb cast.
Remember that donor reel that the gear set was removed from?
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTa.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTb.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTc.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTd.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTf.jpg)
Without gears there is not much to loose if the spool is narrowed. I didn't do any better getting the flange put on straight this time. It is a little crooked (not perpendicular to the arbor). The thin flange and the heavy arbor heat and expand at different rates so it's hard to prevent things from shifting.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTg.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTh.jpg)
For a centrifugal brake race, a slice was cut out of a big old brass nipple. I don't remember where the nipple came from but knew it would come in handy some day. Sometimes we save things.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTi.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTj.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTk.jpg)
The left spool flange was turned down so it would tuck into the lip of the race. I tried to fudge a little here and there to compensate for the crooked flange but ended up with a large gap where line could get under the spool
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTl.jpg)
The stand and posts had to be cut down. I didn't want to mess with the foot rivets but wanted to save the quick take-apart feature. Some pieces of tubing, one inside the other, were used to center and guide the drill bit. It made straight holes for a change.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTm.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTn.jpg)
The other posts were turned down with the precision lathe and cut to length.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTo.jpg)
The early ABU centrifugal brake system seemed like the easiest thing to mimic. They had two wires with little brake blocks that rubbed against the race when casting. I had no idea what size or number of brake blocks would be needed to stop a heavy brass spool. Three brake block wires were brazed to the clicker ratchet.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTp.jpg)
The wires were cut to length so they would ride inside the race. Staying with a theme, brake blocks were cut froma bamboo twig.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTq.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTr.jpg)
The first few casts were without brake blocks. One backlash was so bad that line got under the left spool flange. Three large brake blocks was way to much. Two small blocks was about right at first but I later put the third one back in as the reel loosened up and started breaking in.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTs.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTu.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENTt.jpg)
It casts OK for a direct drive. Not be best, but good enough. The size is just right and it fits nicely in the hand. The line capacity is 120 yards of four-strand dyneema which is no more and no less than what is needed for the task. That crooked spool flange is annoying, but tolerable. Not a bad little reel.
-steve
You keep surprising us Steve, or me at least - when you were frustrated with magnets and suggested centrifugal brakes as the best alternative I thought the brake drum and spokes would be beyond back yard filers like us. I was wrong (in your case anyway)
Mike
Another great build ! I love the drill centering solution .
Bravo Steve! Now I know what to use to replace those darn brake blocks...a bamboo twig...sheer genius! 8)
I was surprised too Mike. The key bit of luck was finding the brass nipple which just happened to be the perfect diameter. The race sits in the original cut-out for the spool flange on the tail plate. That cut-out really helps to align the race and keep it centered while brazing.
Mike, I cut the bamboo twig blocks and then ran a hot needle through them to scorch the inside and smooth it out. Then soaked in oil. Notice they are not perfectly round, but they do not seem to be binding.
One problem with centrifugal brakes (new or old) is that you cannot watch them do their thing. It would be nice to be able to see if they wobble or bind on the wire in action.
I'm making another one now and found a solution to the crooked flange problem. Will also use a smaller wire diameter wire to accommodate smaller bamboo blocks.
-steve
Steve, you continue to amaze.....your experiments are lessons for us all to learn from....Bill
Thanks Bill.
Crow, I jinxed myself by bragging that I can drill a straight hole now. Had one today that got started a little off center and I screwed the whole thing up trying to make a course correction. From now on I'll pull the pieces of tubing off and check the center as soon as the bit makes a dimple. Once it gets started off center there is no fixing it.
-steve
I understand ! With those super small bits....which are really hard to sharpen, anyway....just a slight difference in "lengths of the cutting edges" can make the bit "lead" off centered...and once it starts...you're pretty well screwed . As my eyes get "older", I have more and more trouble sharpening bits....and , therefore, the size of the bits I feel "confident " about sharpening keeps going up ! I mounted my "desk top magnifier" on the bench, near my grinder...and that helps....but, pretty soon, anything smaller than about 3/16 will just have to stay dull, I guess ???
I usually start with 1/16" and work up through the bit index. This particular screw-up was due to starting with a dull bit.
I'd be lost without Donegan brand Optivisor loupes and 3X reading glasses. What I can't find is a good headband loupe that can be worn under a full face shield.
-steve
Steve, I have found the Drill Doctor drill bit sharpener to be a good tool. I have sharpened many bits from 7/16 to 1/2 masonary bits (havent tried it on smaller). It sure saves me time from having to go to the hardware store because I either broke or dulled my bits. I bought the smallest (cheapest) model over 15 yrs ago. Would highly recommend it. Bill
(https://i.imgur.com/MVcZx2q.jpg?1)
Like you Bill I used to sharpen all my dull drill bits - but that got old very quickly. Now I just buy bulk (usually HSS Cobalt) and toss 'em when they blunt. The larger (and more expensive) TCT sds masonry bits (and some woodworking bits like the forsteners) I still sharpen though, but they don't get used that often.
Centrifugal brake number two, this time with a clutch. Started with:
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2a.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2b.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2c.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2d.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2e.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2f.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2g.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2h.jpg)
As mentioned above, I screwed up drilling a hole on the narrowed stand and had to replace the post.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2i.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2j.jpg)
The flange was threaded onto the arbor and a nut was put behind the flange to lock it in place.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2k.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2l.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2m.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2n.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2o.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2p.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2q.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2s%20(1).jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2s%20(2).jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2u%20(1).jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2u%20(2).jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2v.jpg)
Several stop latches have been tried but all were too fiddly or in the way. This works good enough for now.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2w.jpg)
Works OK. That black stuff on my fingers is dye rubbing off the cheap Chinese dyneema. You can't find good 6 thread silk or linen line now. Wish I could make my own.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2x.jpg)
-steve
That is one trick little Shakespeare indeed...great work Steve. I hear ya about the cheap line...the red is even worse than the black. 8)
Great ! I love your "additions".....and how you make them work !
Steve, I really enjoy seeing you catch fish with your customized antiques. This thread has taken on a life of its own.
Steve, Very clever and a great result!
Basto
Here is a really quick and easy centrifugal break hack for a Horton/Meek Blue Grass 33 tube reel. It is completely reversible. Something similar can probably be done with other tube reels like Horton Simplex, Meisselbach Tripart and Takeapart. This example has had a rough life but they are very sturdy reels and hold their alignment very well. I've never seen one that did not have good bushings and journals. They came without a friction break or spool tension knob so it is all thumb until you add the centrifugal brake.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/BG33a.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/BG33b.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/BG33d.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/BG33e.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/BG33f.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/BG33h.jpg)
The inside of the screw-off tail plate serves as the race so shine it up some.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/BG33g.jpg)
You have to remove the clicker, but they were nice enough not rivet the button to the dog so it can be put back later if you want. The clicker ratchet looks like a pinion and is chewed up on this example.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/BG33i.jpg)
Cut a little cylinder of brass tubing, solder some wires to it, slide it over the clicker ratchet, lock it in place with a pin. The pin is just another piece of #15 leader wire that is wedged between the ratchet teeth and the brass cylinder. You can barely see it in the last photo. Tune the bamboo brake shoe size to your needs and it's done.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/BG33j.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/BG33k.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/BG33l.jpg)
-steve
Excellent work, as usual! I have come to look forward to additions to this thread and open first when I find something new has arrived....
Not that there is anything wrong with bamboo, but have you tried any other materials to see if you find a noticeable difference?
Sid
Looking forward to the "fishing report" on this one ! Good job !
Haven't really tried anything else Sid. Except, the other day I was fishing and it started feeling like I did not have enough brake. I think the reel bushings were breaking in and getting faster. I pulled a little plastic bead off the jig I was using and put it under the bamboo. That worked. I once opened an old Shimano Bantam 100 and found someone had been using a small section of electrical cord insulation for a brake block. I don't know what the early ABU blocks were but they had the feel of phenolic resin.
I have been trying to figure out when this style of centrifugal brake first appeared. It may have been in the ABU 5000 beginning in the late 1950's. Certainly, that is where it became famous. Patent protection gave the 5000 a solid hold on the baitcasting market for a long time but I cannot find the patent description.
The earliest patent I've found for a centrifugal fishing reel brake was to Edward Gilmore in 1907. It had an adjustable brake shoe attached to the spool flange. Apparently, it never caught on.
-steve
What an impressive setup. l'd love to see the looks given by the hillbilly fishermen down at Kingston Steam Plant if they saw that rig in operation. :o
Quote from: oc1 on March 13, 2017, 11:01:46 AM
There is something I didn't mention because it is so embarrassing. But they say catharsis is good for the soul.
With a long limber rod and 3/8 or 1/4 ounce jig the reel is uncontrollable. If the jeweled spool tension knobs are cranked down enough to get somewhat thumb-free casting it yields no distance. If the spool tension knobs are backed off and my thumb is perfectly aligned with the cosmos it will throw 3/8 ounce at least 39 yards. The trouble is, my thumb and the cosmos almost never line up so 95% of the time it either falls way short or ends in a backlash.
The original goal of having a Depression Era period appropriate rig went out the window when the spool was drilled. So, I magged it to get the spool under control. I had never magged a reel before and bought the wrong magnets. They are a whopping half-inch in diameter and the neodymium number is probably low. Drilling the spool may make the magnets less effective. The steel clicker ratchet centered between the magnets may make them less effective. For whatever the reason, I seem to have a lot more magnet under the spool than you would expect for a reel this size.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/SPFSg.jpg)
The magnets were attached with a stick of rod guide hot glue and a hot air gun. The clicker spring was removed to make more room for magnets. There are four stacks of two magnets in a +-+- arrangement. For a 1/8 or 3/16 ounce jig all the magnets are used. For a 1/4 ounce jig a magnet is removed from one of the stacks. For a 3/8 ounce jig two magnets are removed.
With the spool tension knobs backed off, a 3/8 ounce jig will cast 34 yards, thumb free, every time. It's a beautiful thing. 1/4 ounce goes 29-30 yards. 3/16 ounce about 25 yards.
-steve
Here are some other easy hacks for adding a centrifugal brake. First, the Meisselbach Tripart. In this case, a factory free spool model. This reel was discussed in another thread but I can't find anything around here.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPCa.jpg)
Adding a centrifugal brake is not a reversible process with this reel because the clicker button has to be cut off.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPCb.jpg)
Braze the wire to a piece of 15/32 inch brass tube.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPCc.jpg)
Grind the wire out of the middle leaving little nipples to fit between teeth then cut the collar off and press it onto the clicker ratchet. Polish the wire and the inside of the tube frame where brake blocks will make contact.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPCd.jpg)
An alternative approach would be to yank the clicker ratchet off the shaft. Drill a small hole the size of the wire through the shaft. Hammer the middle of the wire to make a flattened or square section and then press the wire into the hole. Cut the wire to size and polish.
Another reel that would be an easy hack is the Shakespeare Standard or the Standard Professional. They came in various sizes. An 80 yard Standard was chopped up earlier in this thread. These have hard rubber spacers in the head plate and tail plate.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80Ca.jpg)
[img width500]http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80Cb.jpg[/img]
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80Cc.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80Cd.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80Ce.jpg)
The problem may be finding one of these reels with intact hard rubber spacers. All of the spacers have shrunk now. Some were distorted or cracked when they shrank. Others are still solid and round, just a little bit smaller than they once were.
Again, the clicker is removed. Also, the clicker thumb dial. The hard rubber spacer will become the race. The cut-out where the dial was will have to be filled with something like JB Weld and the inner face polished so the brake block will ride over it smoothly.
There is a little post that the old clicker spring rested against. It can be twisted out or cut off. This style clicker never was very good anyway. The ratchet used with this style clicker is small like a pinion gear. The centrifugal break wire and collar would be very similar to that of the Horton-Meek Blue Grass above.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/S80Cf.jpg)
I might be done with chopping up old reels. The reel you start with still dictates what you will end up with. It would really be easier to just start from scratch and you would get the specs you want. I could never make gears, but all the rest seems possible.
-steve
One last installment here. The faulty clutch was replaced on the reel with the narrowed spool and centrifugal break (see above). This time it works.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2z1.jpg)
The bridge is large enough to accommodate four sliding attachment points to the side plate. I forgot to photograph the underside but there are brass feet brazed to the bridge where the screws penetrate so it sits firmly against the head plate at four points.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2z2.jpg)
The post on top of the eccentric pushes or pulls the bridge to disengage or engage the main gear from the pinion. The eccentric post moves through ninety degrees and the length of throw is about 3/32 inch. When engaged, the post is directly in line with the axis of the main gear and pinion gear. From this position, it is impossible to giggle or vibrate the bridge and main away from the pinion without purposely throwing the eccentric lever. No jumping out of gear any more.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2z3.jpg)
The eccentric/clutch lever is on the outside of the head plate this time.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2z5.jpg)
The bamboo twig centrifugal brake blocks were replaced with ipe wood blocks. They don't really work any better and are more difficult to make than bamboo twigs.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/CENT2z4.jpg)
It was put on a new ipe wood rod and loaded with 105 yards of 20# spectra and 10 foot fluorocarbon leader. 3/8 ounce jig, 39 yards, thumb free, good enough. I can fish with this rig every day without feeling overly handicapped.
The rod is discussed here:
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=23503.msg261501#msg261501 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=23503.msg261501#msg261501)
I might be done with chopping up old reels. The reel you start with dictates what you can end up with. To get the specs you want it may be easier to just start from scratch. I will never be able to make gears, but all the rest seems possible.
-steve
Fascinating work Steve, I'd like to think I was keeping up with your modifications to these reels but this last refinement has confirmed I would fail any comprehension test. I've said it before, but I'm sure there is a lot of time spent designing, making and test fitting the parts, not to mention the frustration when a concept doesn't work out and the kick you get when you tweak it and trick it into working. Thanks again for sharing your passion.
Mike
Great to follow this, Steve! It's funny about the title of this thread... Does imbibing lead a person to this? I'm sure there is more to it than that. Whatever it takes to set the imagination and spirit free ;D :o ::) Truly inspirational!
Good work again steve, I am sure that brain of yours is full on, even when your a sleep, thank mate, cheers Don.