Have a recurring problem with this reel. Works great for a while and then starts screaming on the cast. All gears, etc are good. No grease on the spool shaft, etc. Could it be too much grease on the yoke? Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks
Sounds like the spools ball bearings to me. Are you using a low viscosity high performance oil? Some oils like Rocket Fuel require much more frequent use. What about the bearings themselves? Are you using ceramics? They can be very loud on the cast.
No ceramic brngs and it doesn't sound like the spool brngs but I will double check. Sort of has me boggled a bit. Neighbours think I'm a bit nuts casting up and down the road with some big bolt nuts tied on the end of the line trying to figure it out.
I have used Penn oil, reel butter and reel X. It always comes back. If the pinion is not hanging up in some way then I guess I will pull and check all the bearings. Clean them right out and see if there is a bad one.
Thanks for taking the time.
I have yet to see an Abu with a hug-up bearing because of the design of the yoke and eccentric design. How are the cast control bearings (those little blocks on wire to slow the spool down during casting)? Are they worn and old?
How about the clicker? is it slightly engaged?
I know, I'm shooting in the dark.
Hi, My turn. Ensure that the bearings are wet, and oil the idler gear and post, in the side plate.** Then take a q-tip, and add the merest drop of oil around the brake plate collar where the little flyweights do their work.
Check cast cap settings, ensuring that the spool is not scraping on the frame, if set way too loose, which allows the spool to go side to side too much.
When you beat the issue, could you report back so folks with the same scenario will be able to avoid your pain. :D All the input so far from the folks has pretty much covered the causes, so it's in this thread somewhere.
**if your reel uses the idler gear with the dimple, carve it off, chamfer the top of the gear where the dimple was (lets the eclip fit better), add the oil or grease to the post, and use an e-clip to re-attach the gear. The eclip there is the same size as the one up top on the handle post.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=6ZSDvSFwHW4
OK. Looks like a bit of Sherlock Holmes work to be done. A lot of these things I have done, but I appreciate the list that has developed and will work my way through it. Reel is worked pretty hard muskie fishing so some of the tolerances might be off and become apparent when the oil/grease is pushed out. Like was posted earlier, another shot in the dark.
Thanks everyone. I will post whatever the result is but it may be a bit. The next couple weeks are chock-a-block full.
Your time on this is appreciated.
Regards
I have found that about 9 out of 10 times, a squeal on the cast will be caused by dry brake tabs on a dry brake ring. Add alight coat of oil to the ring and a little drop on the sliding weights
Oil on the weights is a dirt magnet...not a good idea. a light smear on the brake collar is better, as I said above.
As you work your way through all the possibilites, best to do one at a time, as en masse will not pinpoint the issue.
I've always kept the brake drum oil free on my C's and older C3's. But I notice on the newer 6 pin brakes on the latest C3's, they make an awful clackling racket on the cast. Ken, do you have any tricks to clean/ degrease those tiny fiber brake pucks?
Hio, 0119;er....I normally run 2/6 on the 6-pack brake system, and have not noticed anything out of the ordinary. Every now and then, I change weights, retracting a pair, and using another pair. I wonder if instead of using the lightest dab of oil, changing to a silicone like Armor-All would make a difference? Or the lightest spray of a dry garage door lube? I'm using Super Slick Stuff on the pawl and worm, and crank paddles. they have a web site.
http://www.superslickstuff.com/categories/Spray-Lubricant-Uses/Sporting-Goods/
Just a shot in the dark.
1. Could be the clicker activating after a few casts.
2. If there is a shim in the spool tension knob it might be worn and this has an effect on the spool. Happened to me with the Penn 500.
3. Bearings which was mentioned.
Follow up to this is good news. Got it fixed. Finally heard from the owner and he is super happy with the reel.
I ended up replacing the cast control brakes and also used a thicker e clip on the drive shaft to get rid of what I thought was a bit too much play.
Thanks to all for your time and thoughts.
Larry
when i have to remove the idler gear on my round round abus i just do it the ways the "BOSS" does it. make a loop using braided lines and put the loop beneath the gear and just pull on it.
Quote from: Mel B on November 29, 2013, 01:57:51 PM
when i have to remove the idler gear on my round round abus i just do it the ways the "BOSS" does it. make a loop using braided lines and put the loop beneath the gear and just pull on it.
Only way I know of for the pressed on ones without ruining it
Quote from: Lunker Larry on November 29, 2013, 06:59:21 PM
Quote from: Mel B on November 29, 2013, 01:57:51 PM
when i have to remove the idler gear on my round round abus i just do it the ways the "BOSS" does it. make a loop using braided lines and put the loop beneath the gear and just pull on it.
Only way I know of for the pressed on ones without ruining it
I used the braid loop equal and opposite around the idler gear one time and one time only. I pulled the post right off the sideplate, effectively destroying it. Gear still attached to post. One tug straight up, and that's all she wrote. After that, I carve off the dimple, and put an e clip, like Abu _used_ to do. Makes it so much easier later, to service things.
i prefer with the screw;
http://www.stripersonline.com/t/512145/pictures-of-you-abu/690
Pretty nice. I wonder what the violet one costed out at. Looks like a trailer queen you see at car shows, I would struggle to fish it, unless I had scads of dollars and not care about boar rash. :)
i'm sure an arm and a leg. but this guy seems to have Dr. Frankenstein as his physician. :D ;D