(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/photoHumboldt/IMG_8299%20copy_zpssboci2m1.jpg) (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/photoHumboldt/media/IMG_8299%20copy_zpssboci2m1.jpg.html)(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/photoHumboldt/IMG_8298-1%20copy_zpsdg6jauyw.jpg) (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/photoHumboldt/media/IMG_8298-1%20copy_zpsdg6jauyw.jpg.html)
Time to put this one on a shelf....or get a new base$$$.
Mike
Can you even find a base in red? It would take some creative work and not sure it would be worth it but a cap could be made in aluminum. It would require milling the original base down to the SS reel seat spoon and making 2 new bushings that could be pressed and cemented thru the plastic and the new aluminum insert. Of course the insert would be red anodized.
Probably wouldn't be cost effective though.
How about a black one that gets repainted in red for a worse case scenario?
Wait, got it! How about a used tib frame and cut it back to base size? Wont be original but it would save the day! Just some options.
Good luck, .. Lou
It looks like one of the smaller Newells. If you don't plan on fishing with really heavy drags it should be fine. If planning to fish locked up drags with heavy line then you may find the limit.
Andy, that stand is toast. I saw a few for sale not long ago. If you did buy it from someone, I would send it right back. I know those in red are not cheap. Just my opinion.
Sal
Yeah, it's toast. I'd break it all the way through, pin it, epoxy it, and put a heavy load on it and see if it holds up.
What Number Newell is it?? Just put a Penn Reel seat there they work great.
Mike
I googled photos of some of those clear frames so I could see what's inside it. That steel foot does not seem captive in anyway, it just sort of floats in the plastic. The threaded inserts do seem to go all the way through. After looking at one of my own plastic bases I would suggest using it only with a rod clamp for back-up. The threads on the brass inserts do go all the way through (at least on my black bases). I would purchase full length screws and then trim them to fit exactly. There is another way...I'll try to explain it as best I can. Use a piece of thin stainless steel strap on the inside and drill or punch it to fit C-C on your rod clamp holes. Make absolutely certain that there are no sharp edges that could cut line. Attach this strap with round head screws so it's less likely to snag line and use nuts to secure the rod clamp plate on the bottom. There are trade offs such as the line snag factor but your reel shouldn't go in the drink either. Mike's suggestion of using a Penn seat is the most practical and will still look really cool with the red bars and plates. You might be surprise what that red base might fetch at auction...I'm always amazed.
Good luck
-Mike
Agreed Mike, the Penn seat is the best way out. You know us toolmakers, were not happy unless we try to fix everything! ;D
.................Lou
Thank you for all the help. A red base for this R220-5 online is $125.00 hmmm. Decisions...
Here is a quick mock-up of what I was trying to explain. I just threw this together with what I could lay hands on quickly. I would suggest using stainless instead of brass. Use different screws. McMaster Carr has screws like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/#92949a821/=1645zbu. I think the heads will be fairly snag-free and they are long enough that you can cut to length. Don't forget to check the thread...I think they are 8-32 but I didn't confirm that.
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah30/mwhelm/20170128_180538_zpseq7rmwct.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/mwhelm/media/20170128_180538_zpseq7rmwct.jpg.html)
Good luck
-Mike
thanks mike good idea.
Quote from: steelhead_killer on January 29, 2017, 03:49:45 AM
thanks mike good idea.
The Penn Base might be hard to find. PM me if you can't find one. It's possible I might
Mike