Hello,
I have been searching for any tutorial or instructions or anything about removing (nicely) and swapping out knobs.
I saw Dennis' video but he just rips out the knob, I want to try and remove and use that knob on another handle... is that possible?
(I am glad I found this beginner board because I have been asking stupid questions all over this site and looking like an idiot... haha)
hi if your talking about the football type of knobs, i heat the shaft and pull the knob off, to install another, i heat the shaft again and push it on. harryk
Quote from: reelrepair123 on April 25, 2020, 10:30:29 PM
hi if your talking about the football type of knobs, i heat the shaft and pull the knob off, to install another, i heat the shaft again and push it on. harryk
Are they glued on? And THANK YOU!
Pressed on. Ribs on the shaft dig into the plastic.
-steve
correction: not ribs, but knurling
I dug this handle out of the toy box. The oxidized plastic will clean up easily. However the knob sleeve wobbles around on the shaft that is pressed to the blade so it is pretty much worthless.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast1.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast2.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast3.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast4.jpg)
Once the knob is removed, the oil port can be removed. Push it from the outside. Reinstall from the inside.
Wobble in the loose sleeve was fixed by tapping the brass you can see at the end. A make-shift punch with a flat head worked. It didn't take much so would be easy to hit it too hard and bind the sleeve to the internal shaft.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast5.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast6.jpg)
I slid the knob back on the sleeve and gave it just a little tap to re-seat it. The knob was on so tight I could not pull it off by hand and had to pry it off again. I was surprised how tight it was. A little Locktite would have probably made it permanent.
Still bored, I decided to try casting a new knob using regular polyester casting resin. After curing, it was turned into shape and polished. When polyester resin is turned or burnished it is almost impossible to get a high luster finish again.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast8.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast8b.jpg)
Casting resin seems to be too brittle too because I broke it trying to install the oil port. Wasn't pushing very hard either.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast7.jpg)
The next attempt was again with casting resin but this time reinforced with woven carbon fiber. That seems to overcome the brittleness problem. The acrylic acetate like Sal uses would be much better.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast9.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast10.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast11.jpg)
Maybe lime green is too gaudy for a squidder.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on April 29, 2020, 05:43:52 AM
I dug this handle out of the toy box. The oxidized plastic will clean up easily. However the knob sleeve wobbles around on the shaft that is pressed to the blade so it is pretty much worthless.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast1.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast2.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast3.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast4.jpg)
Once the knob is removed, the oil port can be removed. Push it from the outside. Reinstall from the inside.
Wobble in the loose sleeve was fixed by tapping the brass you can see at the end. A make-shift punch with a flat head worked. It didn't take much so would be easy to hit it too hard and bind the sleeve to the internal shaft.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast5.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast6.jpg)
I slid the knob back on the sleeve and gave it just a little tap to re-seat it. The knob was on so tight I could not pull it off by hand and had to pry it off again. I was surprised how tight it was. A little Locktite would have probably made it permanent.
Still bored, I decided to try casting a new knob using regular polyester casting resin. After curing, it was turned into shape and polished. When polyester resin is turned or burnished it is almost impossible to get a high luster finish again.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast8.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast8b.jpg)
Casting resin seems to be too brittle too because I broke it trying to install the oil port. Wasn't pushing very hard either.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast7.jpg)
The next attempt was again with casting resin but this time reinforced with woven carbon fiber. That seems to overcome the brittleness problem. The acrylic acetate like Sal uses would be much better.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast9.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast10.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast11.jpg)
Maybe lime green is too gaudy for a squidder.
-steve
That is awesome! How much do you charge for a knob? Do you have any other shaped knobs?
Quote from: Brandon G on April 29, 2020, 05:59:10 AM
That is awesome! How much do you charge for a knob? Do you have any other shaped knobs?
LOL. I doubt there would be any demand.
Any shape is possible if it fits on the lathe. Making a pleasing shape is easier than copying the Penn shape exactly. We are so used to looking at Penn knobs that it is noticed if they are off by just a tiny bit.
I apologize profusely for hijacking and screwing up your thread.
Speaking of Penn knobs, have you eve noticed the small line or indentation around the middle of torpedo knobs from the 1960's-70's?
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast12.jpg)
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast13.jpg)
The earlier football knobs did not have the mark,
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/cast14.jpg)
I'm pretty sure that little line is where there was a seam in the mold. The mold had to come apart at the seam to removed the new knob.
Since the older knobs do not show a seam, does that mean they were shaped or turned from a piece or rod instead of being cast in a mold? Or, were they just more careful to burnish and polish away the seam line on the older style?
Does anyone know exactly when they switched to the torpedo shape?
-s
Quote from: Brandon G on April 25, 2020, 09:57:21 PM
Hello,
I have been searching for any tutorial or instructions or anything about removing (nicely) and swapping out knobs.
I saw Dennis' video but he just rips out the knob, I want to try and remove and use that knob on another handle... is that possible?
(I am glad I found this beginner board because I have been asking stupid questions all over this site and looking like an idiot... haha)
Brandon, we don't look like idiots - we look like beginners. And sometimes the people who've been here for years will just move your post where they think it should go. Nice bunch a people here.
Greg
oc1 the green knob is awesome and I think it looks great on your squidder as it is totally unique. Im a self proclaimed squidder expert as I have several in my collection. Lol
Mike made a nice gadget to remove handle knobs, but unfortunately the pics are gone. Maybe he could get those back.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13124.msg130901#msg130901
Sal
Hi Sal check on your link page 2 Reply #19 on: March 25, 2015, 09:26:30 AM. There is a downloadable file there.
Regards
AC49
Thanks for that Alan, I didn't see it.
I'll post it here:
https://alantani.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13124.0;attach=11552
Best,
Sal
Steve - How did you remove that knob? The tool that Sal posted looks pretty comprehensive but I was wondering what your approach was? - john
Quote from: Brewcrafter on June 03, 2020, 11:39:09 PM
Steve - How did you remove that knob? The tool that Sal posted looks pretty comprehensive but I was wondering what your approach was? - john
I heated up the post and yanked it off by hand.
-steve
I've removed a few knobs by using freezer spray on the shaft (or chucking it in the freezer for several hours). Then lock the shaft (gently!) in a vice with soft jaws and pull the knob off by hand.
Both parts remain useable.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/26/9780_01_12_18_10_04_53_264911420.jpeg)
Wow, I've been here a good while and never saw that before. You are always learning here.