I have talked with Randy I could not attach my picture on my Tiburon frame in my messages. The original cross-frame post is too long and the screws protrude through to the frame. It holds the Harness reel clips is this secure without the post?
Greg, as to the strength of the Tiburon frame without the top post as compared to the stock Newell base, bars and post, I will leave it to everyone else to voice their thoughts.
The easiest way to solve the protruding screws problem is to cut the screws. I don't know how to do that without messing up the threads but I know that many of our more mechanically inclined members are able to do that. If someone would please post the proper procedure , I would really appreciate it.
Randy
Most wire strippers have screw cutters that are threaded so that they protect the threads. You screw the good end (the end you're keeping) into the threaded part and the tip of the screw goes through a non-threaded hole on the other side. This prevents damage to the threads. You unscrew the good end of the screw after making the cut. BUT...these only accommodate standard (common) screw threads. I believe the thread you want to cut is going to be a 5-40 and will likely not be found on common wire strippers.
What you need to do for the non-standard threads requires two nuts in the same thread size and pitch. You screw these down on the good end of the screw then tighten them together so they won't move while you cut. These nuts are to protect and restore the threads after you make the cut. I use an abrasive cut-off wheel and a dremel tool. Because you are taking such a small amount off your frame screws, you can use a bench grinder.. I like to clean up the threads as much as possible before removing the nuts. You may also like to bevel the last thread around the tip to help it to start easier without cross-threading. A wire brush or wire-wheel wheel will also help clean up the tip.
Thank you for the help Mike. Greg, if that sounds too complicated, I would be happy to pay your machinist friend to cut the screws for you.
Randy
I just double checked mt wire strippers. Only common screw threads. There was a 4-40 but no 5-40 as I suspected. That's why I always cut them with a cut-off wheel. If it's just one or two threads I'll usually grind them.
When I do a lot of them I use a plastic tube that's the right length. I just stick a screw in it and turn a nut down tight. Then cut off or grind away whatever sticks out past the nut. Makes things go faster when I'm doing a lot. If I rush things the heat will melt the plastic tube and I'll have to make another tube-jig.
5-40 nuts aren't very common unless you have a great hardware store (don't even try Home Depot or Lowes). McMaster-Carr carries the nuts but not the exact screws. Newell and Penn use an oval head slotted screw. You can get an oval head phillips but the angle on the head is slightly different but they will work. I buy the correct oval head screws on ebay. I buy more than I need and I buy them long so I can cut them to length.
I'll check to see if I have extra nuts. I'll send you a couple if you choose to cut your screws. Just PM me your address and I'll get them in the mail.
-Mike
$6.99.
https://smile.amazon.com/uxcell-Right-Machine-Thread-Threading/dp/B07ST9F71Z/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=5-40+dies&qid=1637929532&sr=8-6
PacRat
Mike - I don't know where I got these from maybe a contractor that I worked for. I found in my tools a Wire Stripper & Machine Screw Cutter that cuts 5-40 screws.
Made by URREA # 298
Made in good old USA
Bluefish69 - Mike
Thanks Mike. I think I'll be purchasing a new set of strippers. I checked my nut inventory yesterday and I've been using 6-40 which are somewhat loose but still work. McMaster-Carr has 5-40 for less than $2 for 100. I'm going stripper shopping now.
Home Depot has it for $2 cheaper than Lowes. The Klein version also has 5-40. I think I will need to check all of my strippers before pulling the trigger,
Thanks again for pointing this out. I was actually contemplating drilling and tapping one of my strippers but was too lazy to look for my tap. I'm sure I have one for chasing threads in old Newell frames.
Thank you for all the input and since I have 30 Newell reels it would be beneficial to acquire the correct die and cutter. My CNC guy is a fishing friend I took the reel Friday for his opinion. He thinks the post could be easily cut and tapped. However, it looks out of sorts with the black and red Tib frames. Is it difficult to get them anodized?
We have a member here by the name of tenderloin.
He sells a lot of Newell stuff on Ebay by the name of whittierte. I would check with him about these screws. I believe he has several lengths available. Measure the screw you have and how much they are over length.
How much shorter does the post need to be? I don't think very much. Maybe cut a little off each end, should be enough thread left on the ends so you wouldn't have to tap it .
Might look in to powder coating it if you don't like the color
I shorten my screws with side cutter pliers and then just file the end of the screw square again the they always work fine. I see no need to buy dies to recut threads. This seems too simple to make it complicated.
Dwight
I screw screws in nuts, put nuts in vise, and cut off with a dremel wheel and works very well. When you back off the nut it chases any burrs.
After reading these comments I went out and purchased a new pair of wire strippers that has a 5-40 screw cutter. They were Craftsman brand and less than $15 at Lowes. I looked in the electrical dept first and none of those strippers had 5-40. So I went to the tool department and found some with 5-40 cutters. I haven't used them yet so I can't critique them but they seem like they should get the job done.
-Mike
You have a topless frame there. No need for a top post. The frame is designed that way and is very strong.
As for the long screws, try and switch them out with the reel seat screws. Compare all of them and use the shortest screws for the harness lug holes.