I found two of these reels so once I receive them I think that I will do a tutorial on stripping/servicing one and I am going to look for your advice once I open one up. Haven't seen a tutorial done on here yet so I am volunteering
NOTE: The pics below were from my OP but I will start the strip down at the end of this thread....stay tuned
Any clues in the reels themselves (i.e. service date stickers, marker on the inside of the side plate, or what type of grease was used)? 5 Oceans, 7 Seas used to service these larger reels, and also does custom rod wrapping.
Are you looking to have your reels serviced?
placed a pic with the reel and serial #
other than that - I have yet to open it up
I checked my records and this is not one of those that I have serviced. Could have been any number of about a dozen or so different guys/gals that have routinely serviced larger reels here. Why are you trying to track down the person who made the rod, and serviced the reels? if you don't mind me asking?
Before 5 Oceans, try Hobitat at in Kaimuki.
Quote from: Tightlines666 on February 18, 2015, 04:48:35 AM
I checked my records and this is not one of those that I have serviced. Could have been any number of about a dozen or so different guys/gals that have routinely serviced larger reels here. Why are you trying to track down the person who made the rod, and serviced the reels? if you don't mind me asking?
I am really more interested in spares for this reel - who supplies them is of interest (i don't have an immediate need but i also understand that the rubber pressure disc goes bad so any leads on a replacement before it happens is ideal. i am also toying with a CF disc upgrade if such a service exists.
i note that there are no threads on this reel specifically and have relied heavily on advice from this site for my other reels as I was previously afraid to strip any of my reels and now perform basic service to keep them in tip top shape.
I think parts will be hard to come by, but not impossible. I would call Shimano and ask or recommendation on who they sent the parts to and start from here.
The carbon fiber drags, you may need to cut you own based on your current drag washer dimensions.
And your sealing ring, I think Tightlines666 had to cut his own as well, and so you may need to go that route as well.
Quote from: ohfishalee on February 18, 2015, 03:01:32 PM
Quote from: Tightlines666 on February 18, 2015, 04:48:35 AM
I checked my records and this is not one of those that I have serviced. Could have been any number of about a dozen or so different guys/gals that have routinely serviced larger reels here. Why are you trying to track down the person who made the rod, and serviced the reels? if you don't mind me asking?
I am really more interested in spares for this reel - who supplies them is of interest (i don't have an immediate need but i also understand that the rubber pressure disc goes bad so any leads on a replacement before it happens is ideal. i am also toying with a CF disc upgrade if such a service exists.
i note that there are no threads on this reel specifically and have relied heavily on advice from this site for my other reels as I was previously afraid to strip any of my reels and now perform basic service to keep them in tip top shape.
I can certainly check with my contacts around town and see if I can come up with any information for you. But I can tell you my previous research on the tpoic lead me to believe there are really only 2 guys I know of that service these reels regularily. A guy in CA, and a guy in AU. Having said that I have serviced several for some of my local customers. As a matter of fact, I am actually in the middle of servicing 2 Triton 50/80 2-speeds right now. See my post in these threads (if you havn't done so already)...
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=8880.0
I would recommend buying:
-A sheet of Butyl rubber to use a replacement for the silicon disc from McMaster Carr
-Carbon Fiber drag discs (1/reel) from Dawn at smoothdrag, or if she doesn't carry precut washers for your reel, you may need to order a sheet or 2 and cut them yourself.
-Replacement Bearings (2-TT0575 & 3-TT0576) and Bellevilles (6 for Tiagra80WA) from Shimano.
Some of the parts on these reels (such as the cam assembly, plunger/outter 2 speed mech, clicker ratchet, bearings, bellevilles, and 2-speed shift spring, dog springs , and all/most screws) have modern Shimano replacements. However, many can not be replaced with new (including the pressure plate, metal drag disc, dogs, drive shaft &bushing, clicker pawl, spool, side plates, etc...) so you are wise to look for used 'parts reels'. Ocassionally, (like a couple of times/year max), I see a used reel or 2 up for sale here in HI. You can keep an eye out on HI craigslist and if you see something you want, I would be happy to pick it up for you, and ship to you in Bermuda (Provided you could cover my shipping costs).
It is great to see a Bermudian fisherman on the site! I was junior angler of the year in the SeaHorse Fishing Club each of the 4 years in the mid eighties I lived there. I beat out Captain Alan Card's son who as I recall was a close runner up. Do you know Andrew Card? He recently mentioned to my dad that these Tritons are highly sought after by Bermudian fisherman. Also, I would be interested to know if the photo of me with my 64lb Wahoo on 16 is still hanging in the tackle shop in Hamilton?
Pardon me if i am mistaken, since memory is not quite as focused as it used to be, but i'd like to recall that the TTS reels do not have the rubber pressure pad; only the TBM series do. The TTS reels used a single tabbed drag washer on the spool, similar to the TLD series. Not entirely easy to keep track of when all series were introduced in the late 1980s. They also used a screw-thread type lever action as opposed to the more common type of cam.
Doc.
Quote from: Robert Janssen on February 18, 2015, 07:43:55 PM
Pardon me if i am mistaken, since memory is not quite as focused as it used to be, but i'd like to recall that the TTS reels do not have the rubber pressure pad; only the TBM series do. The TTS reels used a single tabbed drag washer on the spool, similar to the TLD series. Not entirely easy to keep track of when all series were introduced in the late 1980s. They also used a screw-thread type lever action as opposed to the more common type of cam.
Doc.
Thanks Doc!
You are absolutely correct, and Mr. Tani himself just confirmed your statement. The single speeds have a threaded screw in place of the standard cam mech found in the 2-speeds, no seperare pressure plate and/or silicon disc to worry with, and the canvas drag washer does not have a direct replacement avail. However, you can order an 82mm od cf drag disc from dawn, and trim the od down to 80mm, and punch (or drill) out the 4 inner holes to fit the lugs. Bearings can be replaced if needed, and Bellevilles as well. I actually havn't serviced any of these single speed Tritons, but they should be pretty str8 forward. I apoligize for any confusion. Also, you may want to order a few new shims (to fit the spool shaft( from Shimano. With a carbon fiber drag upgrade, you may want to consider changing the stock Belleville config to a heavier style, such as (((()))) and use shims to make up the extra space.
I cannot tell you how glad I am to hear that there is no rubber involved in the reel (correct me if I read it incorrectly). If that is the case = I will be on the hunt for another of these reels if I can swap out the new parts for old as stated. they are built like a WWII bunker and also glad to hear about the drag washer material available at Dawn's!!
Yes it is a sought after reel - Andrew Card looks to have a couple and a few of the successful seasoned veterans have them on the commercial boats unlike the charter boats who have the glitzy Tiagras (I have a few as well ;D )
I have made contact with Reel Connection in San Diego (which reminds me - I have to send him a follow up email) but most importantly - glad to hear no butyl rubber in the reel.
I will check on the picture at the tackle shop which has moved since the eighties but they have definitely kept a lot of their nostalgic pics.
I am actually meeting with the Sea Horse Club President (just recently) about a Junior Tournament which I really hope gets off the ground running so perhaps there are some picture that I might be able to garner.
I know the Card family - went to school with Alan's nephew and went on my first deep sea trip with Andrew when I was 15 - 60+ pound yellowfin and we fish out of the same location!! Small world!!!!
I might get the nerve to strip this bad boy down now thanks for all of the input thus far and looking forward to more
Can't sing the praises of this site enough!!
check your drag range first. someone had monkeyed with the two reels that i tore down. i was getting 10 pounds of drag at strike before losing free spool. the bellevilles on the left side were "()" and the bellevilles on the right were "()()()". i put a flat washer on the left side and put all the bellevilles on the right in a "(((())))" configuration. it was the only way that i could get the 25 pounds of drag at strike that the owner needed. unfortunately, there was so much pressure on the side plate bearings that it was loading up. i just could not get them to work any other way. :-\
Quote from: alantani on February 19, 2015, 02:56:57 AM
check your drag range first. someone had monkeyed with the two reels that i tore down. i was getting 10 pounds of drag at strike before losing free spool. the bellevilles on the left side were "()" and the bellevilles on the right were "()()()". i put a flat washer on the left side and put all the bellevilles on the right in a "(((())))" configuration. it was the only way that i could get the 25 pounds of drag at strike that the owner needed. unfortunately, there was so much pressure on the side plate bearings that it was loading up. i just could not get them to work any other way. :-\
BTW, I am typically a fan of the springier/more linear stock belleville config. As Alan said, if you have a good range and curve, leave the config stock. I suggested replacing the washers since they can (and often do) corrode, or lose their springiness over time, and they don't cost much to replace. Another minor suggestion is to just leave the clicker ratchet in place if any of the screws seem a bit tight. They are soft chromed bronze and can break easily...ask me how I know :(
Quote from: alantani on February 19, 2015, 02:56:57 AM
check your drag range first. someone had monkeyed with the two reels that i tore down. i was getting 10 pounds of drag at strike before losing free spool. the bellevilles on the left side were "()" and the bellevilles on the right were "()()()". i put a flat washer on the left side and put all the bellevilles on the right in a "(((())))" configuration. it was the only way that i could get the 25 pounds of drag at strike that the owner needed. unfortunately, there was so much pressure on the side plate bearings that it was loading up. i just could not get them to work any other way. :-\
I know this is asked often but what is the greatest advantage of having freespool on a reel (used for trolling) at strike versus not having much at all?
you have to have some freespool, otherwise you can't let the line out without pulling by hand. i guess, though, if the boat is moving, it really doesn't matter that much.
Also, typically when a reel is set to the point where it no longer has freespool at a given strike setting this is, in effect, that particular reel's max 'effective drag' setting at strike. Fishing mostbreel models past this preset setting can result in damage due to excessive side loads on the bearing(s). The Triton's frame and gear set can stand up to pretty high loads, but bearings can fail with excessive side loads. The pinion (or right plate) bearing is usually the first to go.
For trolling for salmon in Nor Cal you are trolling with weight or down riggers so you do not need free spool. I also fish in Baja on Panga (boats) with captains that prefer to slow troll with bait and the reel in free spool. You do not want lots of free spool with this set up as line will pay out all the time. So I guess my answer for free spool is it "depends" ;) ::) I know that the only feature I do not like about my Baja Special is that it has TOO much free spool---But most Baja Special owners prefer them because they have good free spool.
TomT
I have another reel that has a slight loss of freespool when the lever is "disengaged" in other words I can rotate the handle and the reel slightly engages. At strike it still let's off line. Is this necessarily bad or is it still another issue that I am describing. By my estimation it is OK with no excessive load on the bearings or sideplate I hope that I am correct because it is meant to be a planer rod reel and I do not except to have to do much else to it but wind in fish!
If you back of the preset slightly does it fully disengage into proper freespool? Alao, have you already serviced this one? Sometimes the bellevilles can show some corrosion, or there can be some slight marring on the spool shaft where it passes through the right spoop bearing casing it to hang up slightly when disengaging. If you havn't cracked it yet, I would have a look. If you were to steepen the drag curve by rearranging the belleville config to say (((()))), you will decrease the spacing along the spool shaft, and might gain a more definate disenagement. I would just play around with your belleville config, and spool spacing (w/0.3mm shims) until you are able to get the drag range and curve you are looking for. Kinda trial and error here. Also, check to make sure there is no noticable laterial play in the drive shaft, if there is you csn shim under the nain gear to correct. Alan telks me there is no definate bump from engaged to freespool in the threaded cam assembly on these reels, so that may explain the tendancy to not fully drop into freespool. I havn't actually worked on these single speeds, so I'm not sure, but I would do a full service first, then make some final adjystments with bellevilkes and shims to get the performance you are looking for. Check out my post on servicing internationals, where I explain the process I use to test and adjust these larger lever drag reels, if you havn't already done so. Keep us posted.
This is the link tightlines is referring to
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=10116.0
It deserves to be stickied.
Quote from: Rothmar2 on February 20, 2015, 02:19:30 AM
This is the link tightlines is referring to
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=10116.0
It deserves to be stickied.
Yes it does deserve to be stickied!! wish there was more pics of the 80W International stripdown - good thing is that they are relatively easy to work on IMHO
Quote from: ohfishalee on February 19, 2015, 03:32:05 AM
Quote from: alantani on February 19, 2015, 02:56:57 AM
check your drag range first. someone had monkeyed with the two reels that i tore down. i was getting 10 pounds of drag at strike before losing free spool. the bellevilles on the left side were "()" and the bellevilles on the right were "()()()". i put a flat washer on the left side and put all the bellevilles on the right in a "(((())))" configuration. it was the only way that i could get the 25 pounds of drag at strike that the owner needed. unfortunately, there was so much pressure on the side plate bearings that it was loading up. i just could not get them to work any other way. :-\
I know this is asked often but what is the greatest advantage of having freespool on a reel (used for trolling) at strike versus not having much at all?
For trolling, not much...but if you may toss a live bait, this may be different. Live baiting, you will want your bait to swim as freely as possible and low resistance of the line peeling off versus higher resistance could be the difference between a strike or an untouched bait.
Are the bearings recommended below both required for the TTS 80? I have the schematic for the TTS 80 and can only see 4 washers but would they not be ?TT0033?
(2-TT0575 & 3-TT0576) are recommended below but on https://fishshop.shimano.com/vip/product_detail.jsp (https://fishshop.shimano.com/vip/product_detail.jsp) I do not see TT0575 listed anywhere. Haven't had much luck with any other Shimano parts suppliers
Quote from: Tightlines666 on February 18, 2015, 05:50:58 PM
Quote from: ohfishalee on February 18, 2015, 03:01:32 PM
Quote from: Tightlines666 on February 18, 2015, 04:48:35 AM
I checked my records and this is not one of those that I have serviced. Could have been any number of about a dozen or so different guys/gals that have routinely serviced larger reels here. Why are you trying to track down the person who made the rod, and serviced the reels? if you don't mind me asking?
I am really more interested in spares for this reel - who supplies them is of interest (i don't have an immediate need but i also understand that the rubber pressure disc goes bad so any leads on a replacement before it happens is ideal. i am also toying with a CF disc upgrade if such a service exists.
i note that there are no threads on this reel specifically and have relied heavily on advice from this site for my other reels as I was previously afraid to strip any of my reels and now perform basic service to keep them in tip top shape.
I can certainly check with my contacts around town and see if I can come up with any information for you. But I can tell you my previous research on the tpoic lead me to believe there are really only 2 guys I know of that service these reels regularily. A guy in CA, and a guy in AU. Having said that I have serviced several for some of my local customers. As a matter of fact, I am actually in the middle of servicing 2 Triton 50/80 2-speeds right now. See my post in these threads (if you havn't done so already)...
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=8880.0
I would recommend buying:
-A sheet of Butyl rubber to use a replacement for the silicon disc from McMaster Carr
-Carbon Fiber drag discs (1/reel) from Dawn at smoothdrag, or if she doesn't carry precut washers for your reel, you may need to order a sheet or 2 and cut them yourself.
-Replacement Bearings (2-TT0575 & 3-TT0576) and Bellevilles (6 for Tiagra80WA) from Shimano.
Some of the parts on these reels (such as the cam assembly, plunger/outter 2 speed mech, clicker ratchet, bearings, bellevilles, and 2-speed shift spring, dog springs , and all/most screws) have modern Shimano replacements. However, many can not be replaced with new (including the pressure plate, metal drag disc, dogs, drive shaft &bushing, clicker pawl, spool, side plates, etc...) so you are wise to look for used 'parts reels'. Ocassionally, (like a couple of times/year max), I see a used reel or 2 up for sale here in HI. You can keep an eye out on HI craigslist and if you see something you want, I would be happy to pick it up for you, and ship to you in Bermuda (Provided you could cover my shipping costs).
It is great to see a Bermudian fisherman on the site! I was junior angler of the year in the SeaHorse Fishing Club each of the 4 years in the mid eighties I lived there. I beat out Captain Alan Card's son who as I recall was a close runner up. Do you know Andrew Card? He recently mentioned to my dad that these Tritons are highly sought after by Bermudian fisherman. Also, I would be interested to know if the photo of me with my 64lb Wahoo on 16 is still hanging in the tackle shop in Hamilton?
I am not sure which size bearings you need for this reel model, but I believe all will be the same size. It would be good if you could pull them and measure before ordering. The right spool bearing will tell you which 4 bellevilles to order (Same reel model). I would guess you need 4 of the larger bearings. I am traveling today, but can confirm when I return home, or maybe someo e else can chime in. As I said, I have never serviced this reel model.
Quote from: Tightlines666 on February 22, 2015, 05:18:29 PM
I am not sure which size bearings you need for this reel model, but I believe all will be the same size. It would be good if you could pull them and measure before ordering. The right spool bearing will tell you which 4 bellevilles to order (Same reel model). I would guess you need 4 of the larger bearings. I am traveling today, but can confirm when I return home, or maybe someo e else can chime in. As I said, I have never serviced this reel model.
thanks - reminds me to buy a set of calipers. appreciate the help!
I believe the bearings are TT0576 7X8X22
and the Bellevilles are RD8341 you should confirm by measuring and/or talking to Shimano first before ordering. If the inner diameter of bearings and Bellevilles is 8mm then these are likely what you will need.
Did you get your replacement drag material ordered?
Did you get the service sorted out on your 80W, and 80STW reels already? Feel free to PM me if you need any additional assistance?
Quote from: Tightlines666 on February 24, 2015, 11:34:50 PM
I believe the bearings are TT0576 7X8X22
and the Bellevilles are RD8341 you should confirm by measuring and/or talking to Shimano first before ordering. If the inner diameter of bearings and Bellevilles is 8mm then these are likely what you will need.
Did you get your replacement drag material ordered?
Did you get the service sorted out on your 80W, and 80STW reels already? Feel free to PM me if you need any additional assistance?
Thanks - I will be in touch with Shimano and/or Reel Connection for confirmation of the bellevilles and bearings - thanks to you and others on this site it will be a lot easier to source these parts even if they are aftermarket!!
I was having a conniption because I couldn't figure out Shimano's parts website but I got it all figured out.
The 80W is in great shape - all of my questions were really what ifs and due to the intended use as planer reels, I wanted to ensure that the most likely parts to go sour were on my shelf before they did if ever at all - at least my down time would be minimal because anything I get would have to be shipped to Bermuda anyway!
Glad to hear you are gettimg it all sorted. Keep us posted on any progress on the Tritons, others may find your experiences useful as well. Best of luck.
Quote from: Tightlines666 on February 26, 2015, 12:27:52 AM
Glad to hear you are gettimg it all sorted. Keep us posted on any progress on the Tritons, others may find your experiences useful as well. Best of luck.
Definitely will do that - I have been a member/lurker on here for a while but can only sing praises for a virtual bunch of strangers who are spread across the globe with at least one common passion, whether it be fishing, reel repair, contributing to this site or even just lurking out of curiousity - or whatever it may be - for the betterment of our hobby/profession, etc.
UPDATE
The reel performed admirably on both the first and second occasion offshore with a #12 Old Salty putting it to the test with a 85% pass rate. The remaining 15% is reserved for when I actually get a bite on the planer setup!
Glad to hear it. Run that planer board on the upcurrent side of Challenger or Argus Bank and tou should get your hookup on the planer one of these days.
In fact, I had a strike on the #16 but inexperience cost me the fish and that was on a day that we caught 11 wahoo - 7 on the downriggers and 4 on the surface lines with 5 fish lost to short strikes and a cut off when the mono touched the spectra
Quote from: ohfishalee on March 17, 2015, 10:45:06 PM
In fact, I had a strike on the #16 but inexperience cost me the fish and that was on a day that we caught 11 wahoo - 7 on the downriggers and 4 on the surface lines with 5 fish lost to short strikes and a cut off when the mono touched the spectra
Wow! Now thats a good day! I miss trolling for Wahoo with downriggers in Bermuda. That spectra is sharp stuff, is a bit dangerous to handle when under pressure, and can definately cause cut offs when a 'hot' fish crosses the lines. Nice having the extra line capacity, and less drag in the water though.
Not to 'One up' you or anything, but my best day of Wahoo fishing was out of a small 17' Whaler in the remote Northwestern Hawaiian Islands where I caught 50+ Wahoo in under 5hrs. I actually released the last 2 because I ran out of room in the small boat. We caught the last few on homemade lures out of plastic bottlecaps and bare hooks, since I had no squid skirts remaining.
I had to build a smoker to smoke the fish, since we quickly ran out of freezer space at the remote Attoll. I won't forget that morning.
That must have been a lot of work :'(
Thanks to a new friend on this site, two reels are en route from Hawaii. Looking forward to getting these reels.
I've been advised that I need to contact Dawn at Smoothdrag as I want to convert one to cf drag system.
Will have to do the strip down first but that is the plan.
Thanks in advance for your assistance John - who went out of his way to collect, package and ship the reels for me.
Quote from: ohfishalee on May 06, 2015, 09:33:58 AM
I've been advised that I need to contact Dawn at Smoothdrag as I want to convert one to cf drag system.
They had CF to begin with; an early shimano version. Maybe you just want new cf?
.
Quote from: Robert Janssen on May 06, 2015, 10:17:12 AM
They had CF to begin with; an early shimano version. Maybe you just want new cf?
I've always known this model to have the 'Titanium' Drag which is fibre based.
I know all the older ones were the dry white canvas (i.e. Titanium). I'd crack em open when you get them anyways before ordering parts. You may need bearings, bellevilles, and drag washers. I think the TLD 50 washer w/o outter ears is the one you want. Then just punch out (or cut) the 4 inner holes To fit. Alan or Dawn can confirm which CF washer you need.
^^^ Sweet Pics of the reels - they show in excellent condition from where I am looking!
Will crack them open carefully once they arrive and update everyone.
Thanks to Tightlines666 (and USPS.com) - my reels arrived today and my first impression has been great thus far. In fact, they have exceeded my expectations
at a glance.
All I need to do is get them broken down and see what the internal condition is like.
Shimano America takes too long to respond to queries about parts!!
Does Glen in San Diego sell parts?
Any other sources for parts that :
- sell parts to persons outside of their shop customers and ship within the Cont. US?
- have good communication;
- have good communication;
- have an online parts list (I know that one is a long shot);
So I have stripped one down.
I tested the mechanisms before I did so and when pulling line off the reel, it made a grinding/humming noise. Nothing clunky or grainy as if there was loose metal inside but other than that there were no worries..
The humming noise went away after I pulled line off a few times (perhaps the Titanium Drag was rubbing against the pressure plate - as I suppose it should). once it was "warmed up" the noise went away.
The other noise is explained below:
Upon stripping it I see that the cooling plate had what appeared to be evidence of one of the ridges having made metal to metal contact abruptly replying >:( spellcheck >:( resulting in some stressed metal.
All of the pictures will paint a picture of what appears to be a well maintained reel depute the damage mentioned above.
Pics have been added but don't know how to change the description of the pics.
I will have to take pics of the camshaft and bellevilles the next time I strip it down.
More pics
More pics
More.....
....
......
There aren't that many parts to discuss but all washers and spacers seemed to be in good shape. Reel was well greased in the right areas. No signs of excess water intrusion and not a hint of rust anywhere.
The titanium drag material was as dry as the Sahara which impressed me based on the age of the reels.
Either they weren't used much or they were treated like Royalty.
Will definitely need the bolts for the rwwl clamp to be replaced and a couple handles from Tom Testa and we're good to go for field testing.
From what I can gleen from the photos...looks to be in pretty good condition.
You may want to measure the bearings, pull their shields, clean throughly and test them for roughness. Then repack 'em with fresh grease. This way you know what/how many you may want to order/replace when/if you decide to do the CF drag upgrade. I like to coat all internals with a light coat of Penn, Cal's or shimano grease as well. If the gears feel rough you may want to consider using some bedding compound to smooth them out a bit.
I am glad to see the reels were in great overall condition, and that they made it to your somewhat remote local in one piece.
I didn't take any pics of the internals but they got a good coating of Penn grease. I am still trying to figure out how the cooling shield was damaged but I filed the protruding ridges (shown as the minute shiny area in the pics) and painted with a sharpie marker.
Will measure bearings on reel number 2 when I strip it down.
The picture of the reel stripped down completely gives me the confidence to state that these reels look like they could be in the a regular lineup on our boat.
We target tuna, wahoo mainly and the marlin that might take a bait intended for these two species would be more than adequately handled on my setup of the following:
300yds of 200lb Tufline Dacron
200yds of 150 - 200lb mono spliced into the Dacron
This is intended to be on a 'meat rod' which isn't very sporting to some but saves time spent re-rigging or hoping that the tackle is up to the task.
I like how the Hawaiian small boat fishermen tangle with similar species, especially tuna to 200lbs on YouTube!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzhIcaIZuSc
My inspiration to get these reels in action soon!!
Thanks for sharing. Notice how the captain waits awhile until slowing down the boat in order to give the fish's buddies a chance to grab a bait. The low gunnels.are typical of many HI-made boats as well. This allows for easier landing of those big fish. The above gunnel.rocket launchers keep.the rod pointed at the fish, and allow more pressure, and a fight from the rod holder. That first reel looks like its drags were a bit sticky...bouncing rod tip.
The second reel was stripped (still forgot to measure!).
However, I want to outline what I believe is a problem as follows:
The bearings are getting stuck on either side of the main shaft at the point where the cross pin (TT0036) is placed either side.
The shaft appears to have no distortion but the bearings get stuck at that point.
Is that normal?
I also tried to remove the bearing shields to no avail, luckily I had two 50lrsa bearings laying around that were identical to the TTS 80W bearings and replaced them both.
Same issue with these bearings hence my deduction that it is the shaft with the problem and not the bearings themselves.
Any ideas/comments from anyone?
I run into this issue frequently. Sometimes I think it is the new chineese made bearings have a very minor largwr OD, and smaller ID then stock origional bearings, other times it seems to be marring and/or distortion of the spool shaft (esp. Where the bellevilles ride). I ususlly just wet sand, or polish the shaft where it passes through the bearings a little bit to get it to fit right.
Thanks for that advice. I read on a different thread that the drag washer can get wet if you are running with them in the gunwale in choppy/rough conditions. We didn't do this but it did get a bit choppy for an hour or so. Never got any pull downs so can't say what the drag might have done (or if it even got wet).
Is this a common problem with the TTS 80w?
The thread I was reading was about one persons experience with the TTS 50w and having stripped the reels down, I can't see how this is possible unless you are underwater for a prolonged period of time.
After stripping the reel one of the screws for the side plate will not tighten.
Any ideas of filling and retapping a worn side plate thread? I've used a different screw to verify this and it is definitely the threads in the reel body.
Are the threads of the Ti80W screws the same?
Still waiting on Shimano to answer my email (s)! :)
I believe these metric fine thread, Shimano screws have the same diameter and thread size, not sure about length though.
I'd suggest trying Alan's trick of using a short, thin piece of copper.
In Alan's words...
"copper is quick and easy. i have used some of the flat copper dog springs from penn. a sheet of copper from your local hobby store is better. cut a small strip that is 2/3rds the width of the screw hole, and just as long. then run the screw in and it should hold just fine. good luck! alan"
If this doesn't work you could try tapping with a slightly larger diameter standard pitch thread. This is another quick and easy fix, but the screw may not have the full holding power. Using a bit of loctite may be in order.
The best way of dealing with stripped threads is to buy a helicoil insert Kit. This requires drilling a precise/square hole first, tapping for the insert size (best to pretap, then use a bottoming tap), and then installing the insert with the instalation tool. The drawback here is that you should have a drill press, and the insert kits are a bit pricy.
Good luck!
*I attached a document containing all of the Helicoil insert specs.
Thanks. Looks like a winner.
Anyone have an "in" at Shimano USA?
Trying to get answers to a question about what parts are definitely a direct swap between Tiagra and Triton parts such as screws, camshaft, bearings, drag washers, spacers of all varieties (shims).
Thanks John for your advice early in this thread and I hope that this thread is valuable to fellow members.
Found two more that I hope to get by next week if all goes well - these are great reels IMHO.
Wish there was an engineer who could convert to 2 speed and I would love to have these classics modded!
I have one 50w and I am sure I found a tutorial on this site that was on a 50w two speeds that had been converted by Cal Sheets. will try to find link. Solid simple reels
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7079.msg60095#msg60095 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7079.msg60095#msg60095)
[url]http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7895.msg68013#msg68013[url]
Here are the links showing the two speed conversion
Quote from: jonnou on May 29, 2015, 11:35:17 AM
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7079.msg60095#msg60095 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7079.msg60095#msg60095)
[url]http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7895.msg68013#msg68013[url]
Here are the links showing the two speed conversion
So does the 80w have a similar conversion?
Cal's 2 Speed only does the 50 not the 80. They said they service the 80w but no real conversions.
I have stripped one of the new acquisitions and found severe metal to metal contact between the one piece frame on the inside right side and the outside of the cooling shield. It appears that the two parts, one stationary, the other moving. Looks like over a prolonged period of time.
I put a "shim" under the spacer that goes on the spool shaft in between the pressure plate and the right side bearing. This increased the clearance between the frame and cooling shield.
Now I have the pre-program dial set to "zero" and the drag is now at full when the lever is at the strike setting.
Where can I get stainless metal shims of varying thickness to replace what is really a SS washer :'( >:(
Shimano will have what you need. 0.3mm thick, SS spool shaft dia shims.
Quote from: Tightlines666 on June 08, 2015, 12:30:44 AM
Shimano will have what you need. 0.3mm thick, SS spool shaft dia shims.
Thanks. It feels like pulling teeth dealing with them sometimes. Will look into it.
Quote from: ohfishalee on June 08, 2015, 09:32:51 AM
Quote from: Tightlines666 on June 08, 2015, 12:30:44 AM
Shimano will have what you need. 0.3mm thick, SS spool shaft dia shims.
Thanks. It feels like pulling teeth dealing with them sometimes. Will look into it.
You might try making your own out of a thin sheet of aluminum, or sanding down the thinest SS washer you can find on a piece of glass, or something to keep it flat. Alternatively, I can get some from a friend, throw them in an envelope, and send them your way.
Quote from: Tightlines666 on June 08, 2015, 04:47:16 PM
Quote from: ohfishalee on June 08, 2015, 09:32:51 AM
Quote from: Tightlines666 on June 08, 2015, 12:30:44 AM
Shimano will have what you need. 0.3mm thick, SS spool shaft dia shims.
Thanks. It feels like pulling teeth dealing with them sometimes. Will look into it.
You might try making your own out of a thin sheet of aluminum, or sanding down the thinest SS washer you can find on a piece of glass, or something to keep it flat. Alternatively, I can get some from a friend, throw them in an envelope, and send them your way.
I like the envelope route. I will email you my mailing address in a few.
Update
In spite of the washer being an obvious quick fix for proper shims, it should be noted that we took the reel out the other day and it perform satisfactorily. We were live baiting speedos on the downriggers at 4kts and had a few strikes. Best fish was a 45lb wahoo that was handled quite easily.
The main point is that the drag performed well and did not have the appearance of any kind of metal to metal contact between the one piece frame on the inside right side of the spool housing.
Awaiting some shims that should allow similar clearance but with the ability to have more drag range.
Will keep you posted.
Nice work Gavin! I'm jealous..and miss catching tnose Bermuda 'hoos'.
BTW..shims R on the way today :)
Also, did you ever find a use for the Cal's International 'super stand' that was the wrong size for your reel?
Thanks. I sent the part back and replaced it with the correct part.
I am new to this site and am not sure if this is where I should make this post. here it goes.
I recently acquired two TTS80W's from a guy on Long Island who bought them new. One has had line on it and supposedly never fished. The other one is still in the box with all the hardware and has never had line on it and is in mint condition. I also have a TTS30, 50 and 50W that are all in great condition. I would like to have the 50W and the used 80W converted to two speed if possible. I would like to offer the new 80W as a possible trade for that service. Let me know if that sounds reasonable.
Cal Sheets in California is the person to speak with.
http://cals2speed.com
Is there anyone who can service these reels? I have one I would like to start using but when it was given to me the owner said he hadn't ever had the reel serviced. Any ideas?