This one looks pretty bad, can it be salvaged? ??? ::)
l set this aside for a few weeks then revisited it tonight. Everything else about the reel seems ok.
Looks pretty good from here --
Except the top coil needs to be bent back into position.
This can be done easy enough by finding a rod about 1/16" smaller than the inside diameter of the spring -- then working to shape the spring back with all coils lining up square.
The more critical thing on an "N" is to get the other 15 of the 16 bail and trip system parts working freely with no hangups or gouges to impede the proper bail function -- then the spring can be addressed lastly.
Make sure the Stop rod, stop rod spring, stop block piece are all working freely and crisply with the trip lever.
Clean and burnish everything really thoroughly, then just a half drop of oil (no more) -- or a slight dusting of graphite powder to make sure all is at optimum snapback.
The bail spring is actually just one of 16 components in this bail system -- and if the rest is not working freely, it is easy to just blame the bail spring.
Although in this case the spring does appear to need addressing or replacement.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on September 30, 2017, 04:48:44 AM
The more critical thing on an "N" is to get the other 15 of the 16 bail and trip system parts working freely with no hangups or gouges to impede the proper bail function -- then the spring can be addressed lastly.
Make sure the Stop rod, stop rod spring, stop block piece are all working freely and crisply with the trip lever.
Fred, you're right, looks like these other trip system parts also need some work. This 550N might be a project l need to send you if you have parts and time. lf it was a Mitchell 300 or a round Abu baitcaster l would have repaired it myself already.
Quote from: foakes on September 30, 2017, 04:48:44 AM
The more critical thing on an "N" is to get the other 15 of the 16 bail and trip system parts working freely with no hangups or gouges to impede the proper bail function -- then the spring can be addressed lastly.
Make sure the Stop rod, stop rod spring, stop block piece are all working freely and crisply with the trip lever.
The bail spring is actually just one of 16 components in this bail system -- and if the rest is not working freely, it is easy to just blame the bail spring.
Best,
Fred
Yes, the stop rod is frozen and l cannot get it to budge. l let it soak in Liquid Wrench on both ends, tried gently pushing it out with a small screwdriver and it still won't move.
ls the stop rod just gunked up and frozen or is there a trick to get it to move? Looks like all the parts are there.
If you remove part 13 -- which is the world's tiniest hidden "C" clip -- you should be able to remove the trip rod and coil spring.
A long, slim pair or needlenose pliers will do this. Do this in a plastic bag if you are unsure -- it will go flying into low earth orbit otherwise.
If still stuck or crusted up -- a flat screwdriver and a tap with a hammer will likely pop it loose and out. Clean these parts up well -- a drop or two of oil -- and they should work fine.
Best,
Fred
l was afraid the C-clip would have to be removed, lol. l'm the world's worst removing C-clips, but have never lost one. l can barely see this one.
Looks like if l removed part #60 it would be much easier. Part #60 appears to be made out of rubber or vinyl and could easily be damaged. Would it be safe to pull it off with needlenose pliers or will it damage?
Sometimes they become brittle and break -- no matter how careful you are.
If you can get under the tubing with a couple of strong pry bars like thin screwdrivers or pocket knives -- it should just pop off.
If it is hard, brittle, or ready to break -- just replace it with a sliced ring of surgical tubing. That is what it is.
Best,
Fred
Thanks for the help, Fred.
l'll probably have to go to the Dollar Tree and buy their strongest reading glasses to remove and replace that C-clip.
At least l got it figured out, getting it done might be a different story. ::)
Finally got the C-clamp, stop rod, and other parts removed. After oiling, the stop rod slides freely in the hole.
But I'm now at a standstill until I get the C-clamp reinstalled. I searched high and low for my narrow needlenose pliers but apparently one of my stepsons has misplaced them. A trip to Wal-Mart for a pair of hemostats is in the near future.
Again, thanks for your expert advice and patience, Fred. D.A.M. Quicks are still my favorite spinning reels even though repairing one is quite a bit more difficult and tedious than working on a Mitchell.
Like a lot of folks on our site -- you are becoming very proficient on Quicks and other old quality reels like Mitchells, Cardinals, Daiwas, etc..
Good work!
I have found that a touch of grease on the "C" clip helps with a third hand during reinstall -- also a drop of oil on the pin where the spring lives -- is useful long-term.
After you do a couple of these -- you will find it is just a minute or so project.
Here is what helps me on the install.
Best,
Fred
Whew! Getting that c-clip back on is the most difficult task l've encountered in my short time as a reel greasemonkey.
But, back to square one. l started this thread about a malfunctioning bail spring. Looks like the problem is still here. l tried installing it and each time l tightened the screw, the bail spring jumped out of track. l'll try to bend it back to shape again.
l'm getting discouraged with this reel. After l reassembled it the anti-reverse doesn't work. Also when l install the spool and turn the crank, l hear something clicking. Loosen the spool and it goes away. l noticed somehow the plastic ratchet wheel got dinged up and out of shape somehow the last couple of days. Not sure l assembled it correctly but followed the schematic. Maybe l'll just look for another 550N and use this one for parts. l still don't understand how the anti-reverse and bail assembly operate. lt's got to be something simple, just can't pinpoint whatever it is.
Persistence is the key. Stay with that sucker, Chet, and yee shall persevere. :)
At least l got this reel out of the give away box and didn't pay a penny for it.
l'll eventually get it right, will probably fix it and never figure out how l did it, this has happened before. :D
All the anti-reverse pieces are in place (inside circle on schematic), so l don't know why they aren't working.
Also l'm not sure if the setting element (arrow points to it) needs to be rotated to a certain position.
As far as the bail spring installation goes, when I do it I install the spring & bail arm by themselves without the bail attached and then let it set there free. Then I tape over or wedge the pin in and install the plate & bail on the pin side. At that point I make sure the bail lines up freely without any twist or bind and install the line roller on the bail and connect it to the bail arm. I almost always do that procedure before ever connecting the rotor to the body. It is much less cumbersome and fairly straight forward. There's no binding or twist on the bail spring that way. If lined of properly the bail should snap back shut with good authority.
Likely just an assembly problem --
Do what Tommy suggests -- leave the bail wire off until last -- that way you isolate and eliminate any bent bail or pressure binding issues until the A/R system is right, active, and no weird clicking.
All the round cam does is apply pressure to the triangle spring for hard, medium, or light bail trip rod return.
You will see (3) corresponding letters inside the rotor that this round part points to when adjusted with a screwdriver. HML -- hard, medium, light.
Just make sure when the A/R lever is in the free position -- that the A/R dog is tucked all of the way back into its groove -- so it will not touch the inside of the rotor A/R notches when the rotor is attached.
Might be as simple as your dog is worn down -- or a weak dog A/R spring -- or?
Post some actual pics of where you are at on your reel -- and I will also post a pic of what it should look like.
You are almost there...
Best,
Fred
Quote from: Midway Tommy on October 11, 2017, 04:45:55 AM
As far as the bail spring installation goes, when I do it I install the spring & bail arm by themselves without the bail attached and then let it set there free. Then I tape over or wedge the pin in and install the plate & bail on the pin side. At that point I make sure the bail lines up freely without any twist or bind and install the line roller on the bail and connect it to the bail arm. I almost always do that procedure before ever connecting the rotor to the body. It is much less cumbersome and fairly straight forward. There's no binding or twist on the bail spring that way. If lined of properly the bail should snap back shut with good authority.
l do the same, Tommy, but the spring always jumps track anyway.
Quote from: foakes on October 11, 2017, 05:03:26 AM
Likely just an assembly problem --
Do what Tommy suggests -- leave the bail wire off until last -- that way you isolate and eliminate any bent bail or pressure binding issues until the A/R system is right, active, and no weird clicking.
All the round cam does is apply pressure to the triangle spring for hard, medium, or light bail trip rod return.
You will see (3) corresponding letters inside the rotor that this round part points to when adjusted with a screwdriver. HML -- hard, medium, light.
Just make sure when the A/R lever is in the free position -- that the A/R dog is tucked all of the way back into its groove -- so it will not touch the inside of the rotor A/R notches when the rotor is attached.
Might be as simple as your dog is worn down -- or a weak dog A/R spring -- or?
Post some actual pics of where you are at on your reel -- and I will also post a pic of what it should look like.
You are almost there...
Best,
Fred
Yes, my anti-reverse is in place like your pics, Fred. The A/R was working fine a couple days ago before l disassembled the reel. And it's tucked back before l install the rotor. l might post pics tomorrow when l have time.
Here are two pics with the A/R lever on.
After reassembly, the A/R does work when the crank handle is setting at the 8 o'clock position and the 1 o'clock position.
Here's a pic with the A/R lever on the off position.
Spring and dog seem fine.
Quote from: festus on October 11, 2017, 05:12:23 AM
Quote from: Midway Tommy on October 11, 2017, 04:45:55 AM
As far as the bail spring installation goes, when I do it I install the spring & bail arm by themselves without the bail attached and then let it set there free. Then I tape over or wedge the pin in and install the plate & bail on the pin side. At that point I make sure the bail lines up freely without any twist or bind and install the line roller on the bail and connect it to the bail arm. I almost always do that procedure before ever connecting the rotor to the body. It is much less cumbersome and fairly straight forward. There's no binding or twist on the bail spring that way. If lined of properly the bail should snap back shut with good authority.
l do the same, Tommy, but the spring always jumps track anyway.
I'm baffled, then. I've never had that happen on a Dam, they're one of the easier reels to install bail springs in. My only other suggestions would be to make sure that the last coil isn't counter bent and the prong is long enough to go all the way into & through the plate hole. It should be flush with the outside surface of the bail arm before tightening the screw. Also, make sure the bail arm screw is correct or not worn.
l don't understand it either, Tommy. When l cleaned up my 220N reinstalling the bail spring was no problem at all.
If you decide you want to send it to me, festus --
I will get it going, replace the spring and whatever else it needs at no charge -- get it operating perfectly -- then post pics of the issues so we can all learn.
If you wish to do this, just PM me and I'll give you my address.
Best,
Fred
Thanks for your generous offer, Fred, PM sent.
....and I forgot to mention the reel also needs a brake spindle. I don't know if that could be part of the current malfunctions however.
No problem, festus --
I will take care of it and get it back to you ready to fish.
Best,
Fred
Great idea Fred...I'm anxious to see the outcome. We'll prolly all learn something on this one. 8)
Yes, l definitely need a bail spring.
l swapped the bail spring from my D.A.M. Quick 220 N to this 550N and the bail now works fine.
But l still haven't solved my anti-reverse problem and also need a cover cap, ratchet wheel, and maybe another little thing or two. Fred, l'm still taking inventory of other parts and pieces for other reels l need and will have this 550N to you soon, l hope.
Whenever you get it to me would be fine, Chester --
I will return your 220 bail spring in a small bag so you can use it for something else.
While the 220 BS may work on your bench -- it is not correct -- it needs a heavier gauge and stronger spring for the 550.
Best,
Fred
Yes, I already put the spring back in the 220N where it belongs.
Got lots more confidence working on these D.A.M. Quicks now. I serviced my Finessa which has a minor problem I'll post about in the near future. The 220N has been serviced, everything ok there except for a chip out of the reel foot but still will mount on a rod sufficiently.
IMHO the older 220 is the best built reel out of my small collection. The only plastic I saw was the handle knob and parts of the spool.