Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Welcome! => Beginner's Board => Topic started by: jgp12000 on April 27, 2022, 09:34:23 PM

Title: Basic Wiring
Post by: jgp12000 on April 27, 2022, 09:34:23 PM
I have done wiring projects over the years and tried to go by code and make it look good.I am researching now the proper way to route 8/3 UF-B from my shop to a pond fountain.The entire leg will be approximately 290 ft including the route into the shop's breaker panel. My question is this,what is the proper way to do this? I typically use a PVC LB to enter a building,but what box connectors,shutoffs, and clamps should be used with this type of wire,it's approximately 1" wide and flat? I am a stickler for fanning and forming wires,I know it don't matter,it just looks better. :D
Title: Re: Basic Wiring
Post by: Wompus Cat on April 28, 2022, 02:15:15 AM
Why not go solar . Save copper and Money
Title: Re: Basic Wiring
Post by: oldmanjoe on April 28, 2022, 02:26:44 AM
Are you going to use a timer ,and were is it going to be located , in the garage or at the pond ?
   If at the pond , than i would go 1 1/4 conduit  to the breaker box /circuit breaker 
Title: Re: Basic Wiring
Post by: oc1 on April 28, 2022, 06:51:03 PM
UF is direct bury.  No need conduit.
Title: Re: Basic Wiring
Post by: foakes on April 28, 2022, 08:09:36 PM
We have (2) wells on our property.  The main one for household use —- and another one for AG irrigation.

About 8 years ago, I decided to install a Pump-Saver on the main well that has the 2000 gallon storage tank.  While doing that, I also figured I would install a new sub-panel with modern breakers.  There were still screw-in glass fuses from who knows when —- the original house was built in 1930 —- and the wiring was that old fabric insulation that was rotting away.

An overhead line fed the 240V.

Decided to eliminate the overhead line.  Went underground from the house —- to the cat/woodshed about 30' away.  Split off a 120 leg to run the lights and cat heaters —- then continued another 160' out to the pump house.

Trenched 28" deep (code is 24") —- ran 10/3 from the house to the woodshed —- then out to the pump house. I could have used UF-B to just do a direct underground burial.  But the clamps and sealing of the weather-proof boxes became a complication —- since I did not want water intrusion, ice, or insects.  So I ran 1 1/4" conduit.  The exit & entry points for the  wiring would be completely closed off from the elements.  Wire clamps would be directly inside of the sub-panel and the make-up boxes.

Main thing, check your local codes —- then if not 100% comfortable with the install or the completion for safety sake —- do as much of the prep (trenching, equipment, etc.) —- then hire an experienced local electrician to finish up and check the job before turning on the heat to the circuit.

You don't want any liability or danger issues for your friends, family, or future buyers of your property.

Best, Fred
Title: Re: Basic Wiring
Post by: handi2 on April 28, 2022, 08:25:05 PM
The code for your power company is 24 inches. You can use your own discretion on your property.

When we installed underground gas lines a magnetic tape was used to locate the gas line with a metal detector.



Don't use PVC water pipe. It's not UV rated. It will turn brittle and break.

Use the electrical conduit and FS boxes like Fred is showing.

Keith

Title: Re: Basic Wiring
Post by: jgp12000 on April 29, 2022, 10:55:35 AM
Looks great Fred as always! I have never used a FS box only LB to enter a building, are they easier to route wires through versus a LB? OC1 I just use conduit to protect the wire going into a building, everything underground won't be in conduit. I have a HVAC shutoff I could use to enter the shop, but I may use on the pond end for maintenance, since the GFIC will be in the shop