I know my question is not repair related, but I value the opinion of this site so I'll ask... I'm gonna spool my avet jx raptor with hollow core Jerry brown. Would you spool with 60 and get great capacity or 80 for strength and sacrifice a little line??
I fish the north east and I'd say our adverage tuna is from 50-150 lbs.. Also the reel has up to 40lbs of drag, I kinda feel like 60 isn't enough if I need to lay on the drag.. Your thoughts appricated!!! Thanks
i'd go 80# spectra straight to the top with a 3 foot topshot of fluoro. with these shorter topshots, it is not necessary to go with the more expensive hollowcore.
I use 60lb hollow on my JX's. 60lb hollow is much cheeper than 80lb and not needed in a JX size reel.
Pametfisher on 360 Tuna has tested 60# JBH and it has a breaking strength of a little better than 90#'s. Spool it up with 60 and you have the best of both worlds.....
yeah, it's just that 80# is so nice to work with. i hate having to splice 50 or 60, and tying bimini's in 50 or 60 is no fun either. it's such skinny stuff. i'd rather use 80. it's easier on the fingers. either way is fine, though. i was thinking for my next trip that i might try using those australian swivels.
Quote from: alantani on January 04, 2011, 10:22:32 PM
yeah, it's just that 80# is so nice to work with. i hate having to splice 50 or 60, and tying bimini's in 50 or 60 is no fun either. it's such skinny stuff. i'd rather use 80. it's easier on the fingers. either way is fine, though. i was thinking for my next trip that i might try using those australian swivels.
Ahhhh come on Alan, with your eyesight and nimble fingers......
kids can't relate to this, but we remember the expression, "coke bottle bottom glasses!"
Ok, I'll cut ya a little slack...... ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: alantani on January 04, 2011, 10:22:32 PM
yeah, it's just that 80# is so nice to work with. i hate having to splice 50 or 60
60lb is harder to get a splicing needle through. I just got a spool of Power Pro 40lb hollow to make 20lb topshots with.
yeah, i tried to splice 60 with a needle and it took forever. i finally used a small wire to "open" up the hollow core spectra, then bulletted the end of the flourocarbon and pushed that through all by itself. that took forever as well.
I have 2 splicing needle sets, the better set came with small loop puller and hollow needles for mono down to 20lb.
i use the hollow needles to push through the spectra and open it up, then push the fluorocarbon through all by itself.
On light mono the hollow needles help.
Just a follow up thanks for your opinions... I ended up going with the 60 hollow tufline indicator line.
I know you are only supposed to do it with white line but are you guys chemically bonding the fluor once it's inserted Chinese finger cuff style?
There is no chemical bonding that will hold the spliced top shot. The glue is to hold down the ends and the serving from unraveling.
The reason why JB and Blackwater and now Power Pro lines are used is because they are 16 strand versus the normal 12 strand. They are more expensive, but they hold the top-shot better.
I could not find any info on Tuf Line hollow though. If it's 12 strand it's still works well, but I will probably inserting the top shot an additional 30% more distance into the hollow just in case of additional slippage due to 12 strand versus 16 strand. No scientific data on this, it's just what I would probably do.
CB there a few ways to make the hollow connection. Some use just a overhand knot (not me), others tie a nail/nub knot and some use Sato crimps to name a few ways.
I'm talking strictly insertion style no knots... Also I remember reading somewhere that jb 80 was 16 strand not the others...you should double check your data on that... That's why 80 jb and 100 jb have similar diameters.. 80/16...100/12 strand...
The bonding I was talking about is the glue. My top shots from BHP/ Basil seem to be glued/bonded all the way up the insertion not just the ends from fraying... I know nothing of this process and I'm just asking to learn... All my connections currently are loop to loop. Thanks
You may need to ask them. I know with Blackwater, they only glue the end to prevent the spectra from fraying, and that is what I have been following...well, I don't even glue, I just serve onto the leader and hope for the best...I guess I better start gluing before I loose a big one due to fraying.
Here are a couple of flouro to braid connection that have never been seen -yet.
These connections are the result of 3 years of R/D and it is not yet public.
These connections are 100% and do not creep or slip. They are self clinching and flow easily through guides and does not produce the long stiff coils that result from long insertion depths on served connections.
First phot is 30# Izor to 50# ultracst solid braid under 40# to tension Izor will fail at 52#
Second photo is 50# Flouro to 60# Hollow Ace under 50# of tension. Black marks are to allow checking for creep or slippage. Flouro will break at 57#. Insertion depth can be as little as 1/2 inch but it is easier to build with a 2" insertion.
Jim N.