Client had a rough old 301 — he wanted something a little different —
Cleaned up all of the parts, stripped the paint, then repainted with a Light Olive Drab Cerakote finish.
When it is done — I will post the finished product.
We will see how it turns out.
Before the fire and our 19 day evacuation in September — I decided to add an in-cab winch control that could be operated easily while also operating the truck from the cab. This would be in addition to the wired remote switch. Just a parallel circuit with a master safety activator and a simple IN-OUT push button for the winch — and an amber active indicator light. Wanted something that I could "feel" without any looking. So the same paint was used for the safety bars.
Was looking for a good place to install the switch — couldn't come up with one that wouldn't look hokey.
Figured out that I could remove the clock directly behind the steering wheel (never use it anyway) — and use that space.
Haven't got it installed yet — but I will fairly soon..
Best, Fred
Those letters & numbers were etched & not painted white like most people think. The white looking color in the etching is actually the bright cast body. The black paint makes it look white. Get your pointed hand etcher out, Fred, & really spruce up that guy. ;D
Man, I'd give anything to be able to do that Fred! I envy it all, right down to the Ceracote. Let us know if you take up doing Ceracote piece work.
Did you sand blast the paint off? Did you notice that as you remove the paint there were crevices and pits where the paint was filling in imperfections in the casting? It's damn tough paint though. Did Mitchell have a better paint or better prep than some of the others? Maybe it's my imagination, but their paint seems to wear off slowly instead of chipping off.
I think you would have to be a master engraver to etch the lettering in. They probably stamped it in, don't you think? These days, a CNC would make short work of it.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on January 13, 2021, 04:07:46 AM
I think you would have to be a master engraver to etch the lettering in. They probably stamped it in, don't you think?
-steve
No, they were actually engraved/etched after they were painted.
Quote from: Midway Tommy on January 13, 2021, 05:24:30 AM
Quote from: oc1 on January 13, 2021, 04:07:46 AM
I think you would have to be a master engraver to etch the lettering in. They probably stamped it in, don't you think?
-steve
No, they were actually engraved/etched after they were painted.
Right, they were etched —
I thought about using my large lighted magnifier to very carefully trace the lettering — but decided against it for now. This is a client reel, and the paint is much tougher now than even the factory original — and if I made a slip, it would require stripping and re-coating the entire piece. Not worth my time and effort. If it was mine, and I didn't have a backlog of reels waiting to hit the bench — I would do the etching. In the future, I'll give it a go. I do have around 450 to 500 Mitchell's to practice on — but that is for another day, year, lifetime.
Best, Fred
Nice work Fred, the cerakote looks consistent and solid - was there much of a learning curve with applying it?
Mike
Yes, Mike —
It is tedious, expensive, time-consuming, & the prep is key.
Thought I would try it — and maybe for some firearms — but it doesn't make much sense for a DIY reel guy, like me.
I guess if I was set up better to do volume and charge a lot of money — it might work better.
Experience, learning, and growing more skillful over time — would also help.
That is why I am setting up a complete powder-coating system with a fair amount of room and equipment.
Don't want to spread the systems over 2 or 3 types of painting — but wanted to give this a go.
And, at this point, it would be better for me to get as good and capable as possible on just (1) type of finishing — so I have committed and am focused on the powder-coating — which I think will be more efficient for my purposes.
Don't quite have the PC area completed yet — have all of the PC equipment in place, benches set up, case tumbler, bead blast cabinet, paint booth, (2) ovens, 3 compressors, shop vacs, fire extinguishers, materials, respirators, lighting, plug-in air lines, and quite a bit more. But still need to run some 240V from the sub-panel & gutter box — across to the PC area 40 feet away.
For now, I have been working on chipping away at the backlog of reels that have stacked up during this tough 2020 year. That is what needs to be done before proceeding further with other projects. Can't scatter my fire — just aim and focus on one target at a time.
Best,
Fred
Fred, how did you get the AR switch back on. It was peened, right?
-steve
Actually, pretty easy, Steve —
It's not peened — the A/R eccentric is "fluted" on the end.
The switch itself has a hole that tapers slightly down in size towards the exterior (top) of the switch.
So the twist of a good quality screwdriver — after taping the body to protect it — just pops them apart.
I use a mini pair of vise grips in 4SP size — with large, flat, pivoting clamping surfaces that are tape covered to force the assembly back together. Asian vise grips are junk. True vise grips are my go-to. The cheap knock-offs are made of soft Abba Zabba type metal — and just slip, bend, won't align, and are waste bin crap.
When this switch is removed, the body painted, then reassembled — it is basically a factory job that looks very good.
Most folks don't know they come apart. And, if I am just servicing a Mitchell 300 — I never remove the switch.
Best, Fred
That's good to know about the A/R switch; have never had to remove one, but, who knows?
I have had good luck with the etching, and am not an expert by any means. I imagine the type of paint you use could make a difference. I do not use special tools. Small, pointy knife blade, pointed end of a compass (the thingy you use to draw circles with), heavy sewing needle and even a sharped paper clip end. I even clean up old reels that have not been painted, just to get the dirt out.
Especially nice to see the "lefty", as I have one and plan to rehab it as well; looks like a basket case, but other than a missing line guide and a finger pad that's a bit rough, I believe it's all there (I'm not a lefty, so I don't know how I keep running into these Mitchell odd numbers, but my wife has used a 309 I cleaned up and said it was a good 'un.)
Frank
Quote from: foakes on January 13, 2021, 04:03:56 PM
Yes, Mike —
It is tedious, expensive, time-consuming, & the prep is key.
Thought I would try it — and maybe for some firearms — but it doesn't make much sense for a DIY reel guy, like me.
I guess if I was set up better to do volume and charge a lot of money — it might work better.
Experience, learning, and growing more skillful over time — would also help.
That is why I am setting up a complete powder-coating system with a fair amount of room and equipment.
Don't want to spread the systems over 2 or 3 types of painting — but wanted to give this a go.
And, at this point, it would be better for me to get as good and capable as possible on just (1) type of finishing — so I have committed and am focused on the powder-coating — which I think will be more efficient for my purposes.
Don't quite have the PC area completed yet — have all of the PC equipment in place, benches set up, case tumbler, bead blast cabinet, paint booth, (2) ovens, 3 compressors, shop vacs, fire extinguishers, materials, respirators, lighting, plug-in air lines, and quite a bit more. But still need to run some 240V from the sub-panel & gutter box — across to the PC area 40 feet away.
For now, I have been working on chipping away at the backlog of reels that have stacked up during this tough 2020 year. That is what needs to be done before proceeding further with other projects. Can't scatter my fire — just aim and focus on one target at a time.
Best,
Fred
Thanks for the detailed reply Fred - you have cured my curiosity, the equipment and set up costs will rule out a weekend experiment for me at least. I'm no expert but for an expert reel mechanic/restorer such as yourself powder coating is probably the best choice for re-finishing the cast aluminum used in the classic reels you have chosen to specialise in. I'm looking forward to seeing some more of your powder coated restorations and won't hold my breath waiting for a metallic purple DAM Quick.
Mike
That sounds like a good idea, Mike —
Which model of DAM Quick would you like to see in metallic purple?
Best, Fred
Ready to roll —
New life for an old 301 yard sale basket case.
Heading back up to the Pacific Northwest to fish Trout & Steelhead.
Best, Fred
That is one sharp looking 301.
Frank
By the way —
The name of the light Olive Drab paint — is "French Army Green"...
Appropriate...
Best, Fred
Nice save Fred! Is it cerakote on the spool as well?
Cheers,
Andrew
Just saw your post after nearly a year, Andrew —
Sorry for the late reply.
No, at some point, Mitchell made these very heavy duty spools in a type of "Putty" color. They are a type of thick plastic material.
Thought the color would go good on this reel.
Best, Fred