Just got done doing my second Tiberon Narrow conversion for a 113H (photos to follow in a different thread) but the one thing that stood out on both builds was that even though we have great aftermarket parts, from awesome suppliers, that sometimes they take a little "massaging" to work well together. And while I am no stranger to a Dremel tool, I think this trick works pretty good for Bakelite side plates. The reel in question was a 113H External Drag (I'm partial to that model) and it received an aftermarket bridge/sleeve, 4:1 gear, and beefed drag stack. Issue: During mockup rubbing on the sideplate. Solution: Custom machining:
(https://alantani.com/gallery/33/18717_31_08_20_7_30_31.jpeg)
Here you see the side plate, and my tools of choice: some appropriate 1/2" drive sockets and a copper plumbing fitting in my junk drawer - anything that has a proper diameter to help "clearance" the side plate, as well as some 180 grit sandpaper. Good old rubber cement works great for gluing the sandpaper to your "tool". The important thing, find something that gives you the clearances you are looking for with the proper diameter:
(https://alantani.com/gallery/33/18717_31_08_20_7_31_13.jpeg)
Some good handwork is all it takes (easier to remove more; hard to go back if you take too much!).
(https://alantani.com/gallery/33/18717_31_08_20_7_31_59.jpeg)
Yes, it is time consuming. But the finished product "almost" looks factory on the inside. Sure a Dremel is quick, but I don't trust myself - I would probably end up ruining a perfectly good plate - we are only talking about a few thousands here. Hope someone finds this helpful. - john
Yeah, rubber cement. Don't know why I never thought a that...
Good trick ! Thanks for sharing !
Good John, thanks for sharing, I buff the outside of the plates, As Alan said, yamaha marine grease, will shine the face plate, cheers Don.
Good idea...I like it! One of the most important things I've learned about working the side plates to fit a new set up is to fully assemble the side plate. Make sure nothing rubs after tightening everything down. Many times when fully torquing the bridge screws things will shift...just enough to make a tight spot. 8)
Quote from: Gfish on September 01, 2020, 06:18:04 AM
Yeah, rubber cement. Don't know why I never thought a that...
Yeah, and it smells good also. ;D Dominick
so the intent is to make it deeper for thicker drag stack?
Both deeper and wider. The aftermarket gear mic'd about .495" tall while the factory steel gear was closer to .488". While the OD of the actual gear sections was pretty close between the two, the shoulder on the gear that holds the drag was about 1.211" in diameter as opposed to the factory at 1.200", so the majority of the clearance is achieved by making the existing steps or ridges in the plate go deeper into the plate. Side note that there is a factory lubrication passage that goes from an oil port and intersects into this area and is meant to deposit a shot of lubrication directly onto the main gear. Absolutely essential to get down in there with a small dental flossing brush which is the perfect size and remove all of the bakelite dust and sanding grit, otherwise you stand a good chance of any of that material later being deposited directly onto the teeth of the gear train :(.
Like Mo said, it does mean you have to trial assemble, check, reassemble a few times. The first time with the bridge, sleeve, and gear only installed I was both unable to spin the gear plus if you shook the plate there was zero play in the gear traveling in and out. After I was satisfied that I achieved the desired clearance after a couple of attempts (the gear would move up and down on the sleeve slightly, and I could spin it) I did one final check by putting a very thin film of Play Doh (AKA Poor Man's Plastigage) around the area and installed the plate/sleeve/gear combo one last time, removed it, and had a great visual of how much clearance there is around the entire circumference of the gear. Should have taken a photo of that :(. After that clean the bejeezus out of everything and final assembly! - john
Not only can you show us neat tips ..................................... you can make beer as well !!!.
Good job:
Todd
Thanks mr b. I like your play dough for plasti guage 💡. I've done some external drags as well. Lots more room to use for a tall drag stack, plus a double delrin. Thanks 🙏.
Great job & walk-through, John!
Thanks!
Best,
Fred
John, nice precision work :-)
GENIUS !!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D