hey guys
I guy left me some rods to repair and gave me this one, I dont know anything about it or found any brand on it, seems like solid glass since is pretty heavy.
do you recognize it or know if it worth the hassle to put new guides (maybe some pacbay twisted shockproof) and use it as loaer or give it as gift to one of my friends with charter
Man, that's a difficult one Alex. There were a lot of solid glass rods like that in the early 1960's. Trying to match the oak handle pattern to a rod with a name on it might be the only hope. Mildrum guides I believe but that was sort of the norm back then.
Solid glass rods were maligned because they are heavier and do not have as much backbone as tubular glass. I used to tell my mother that all the time to try to get her to upgrade. Her favorite rod looked a lot like yours but with a smaller tip. It was sort of funny because she was very particular about that rod and would never let anyone else use it.
I'm with Steve on this one, a run of the mill "60's special" that had no under wrap, the basic reel seat with single not double reel nuts. Twist the wood, with some oomph, fore and aft of the seat, it's not uncommon for the old glues to be giving up the ghost. I go through a lot of them to sell off with old Long Beaches and the like. Sometime if the guides are okay and all there I'll simply put a new wrap over the old leaving everything in place. Out the door with a reel for maybe 40 bucks, good for another generation. I brought a couple that were too ugly to sell, a little heavier than yours, but functionally fine to Florida for digging grouper out of the rocks. It'll still fish.
true temper possibly, but as said there were a lot of those back then- I have a bunch of those in the attic. I think Fred has a couple hundred. With your skillzzzzz, you could sand and revarnish the handle, paint the blank, and do a simple new guide wrap easily. I wouldn't put more into it than that, but there's probably someone that needs a good rod for bottom bouncing and that would fish for many more years and might prize a refurbished old school rig.
American Fork and Hoe as well as Montague made Rods just like that and I think your Rod dates bake more than the 60's.
American Fork and Hoe became TRUE TEMPER and still is in Business although I don't know what names they use or if American Owned any more and Montague became OCEAN CITY and ain't no mo but kinda is under various names in the past 30 40 years . I THINK TRUE TEMPER Also owns it now or one of it's spin off company's .It is hard to keep up with it .
If you want to get rid of it as is I would be a buyer to put one of my old OC's on it . ;D
It is definitely a KEEPER in my opinion.
Dad fished Tru's from his charter bass boat and landed hundreds of bass and blues on them over the years, so the old style was "good enough". He went to the Tru tempers because they were shorter by a foot over his better Varmac seated 7 footers. The old time bass boats had big rudders and aft tillers for nimble handling on the tidal rips and around the boulder fields. There were 2 aft facing fighting chairs for the parties. If the angler got distracted the 7 footers were just long enough to smack dad on the side of his head. Here's his old boat from the 60's, renamed, and still in service, and one of the old 7 footers with the Varmac's that I've kept over the years.
way cool!
Quote from: Cuttyhunker on March 28, 2021, 10:00:47 AM
Twist the wood, with some oomph, fore and aft of the seat, it's not uncommon for the old glues to be giving up the ghost.
now that you mentioned the reelseat is pretty lose on the bottom part, you can hear the wood crushing or something alike.
thanks guys, I will have it for when the repairs jobs let me work on it, that might be still some more time, but looks like something a charter will appreciate after looking how some customer treat the loaner rods.
I have a much "lighter" (Salmon?) Redditch solid 9-footer w/ agat[e/ine?] guides & cork/mushroom
I'm thinking it could be remade into a nice troller, but way too heavy/bulky for rod-in-hand
definite drop in joy-of-use factor, if I had to hold/work that thing for hours
no question these old beasts can still catch beasts & should not be retired,
but if you're going to rebuild, turn it into a bait rod that sits in a holder
That appears to be a two piece rod, separating at the top of the reel seat. This give you a lot more options, such as a Lakeland 2 piece reel seat and a different (maybe lighter) handle. The bend in the solid glass rods is also very easy on the back. I love fishing them.
Those heavy old oak handles help to balance the rod.
Steel,
The neatest way to re attach for me once separated, clean up the wood and seat then I apply a good dose of epoxy only to the inside of the seat, not a lot smooshes out onto the top of the seat on reassembly.
dayone,
It's a one piecer glued together for keeps, Higher end rods going back to say the Tycoon's or later the Harnell's were ferruled at the seat. There would be a knurled ring at the end of the seat, usually the rod end, but could be either end, that threaded into the removable part. This one is a hardware store special lacking that and other upscale features. I still fish them, but like to use reels with rod clamps, and pay attention to the single screw seat. They seem to outnumber reels by about 3 to 1 at the flea markets.
I am leaning toward True Temper myself. I remember rental racks filled with hundreds of these in the local NoCal bait shops in the 70s. Rigged with a Long Beach and 30 lb mono, these were the party boat rental rods for salmon trolling, rockcod, live baiting stripers, etc. No need for a full quiver of outfits back in the day.
Damn near impossible to break one, so there must be a ton of these still floating around the West Coast. They probably were not all turned into tomato stakes.
-J
Alex, I know you, and you could whip on six new guides in the time it takes you to read this thread :)
Here's an old Harnell list with the ferrules
Quote from: thorhammer on March 29, 2021, 07:30:57 PM
Alex, I know you, and you could whip on six new guides in the time it takes you to read this thread :)
LOL, not really, I tend to dont rush on when wrapping a rod, never !
I doing this for relaxing not for being hurried or stressed out to finish a job
Quote from: Cuttyhunker on March 29, 2021, 12:51:01 PM
Steel,
The neatest way to re attach for me once separated, clean up the wood and seat then I apply a good dose of epoxy only to the inside of the seat, not a lot smooshes out onto the top of the seat on reassembly.
thanks for the tip, hopefully the wood section inside the reelseat will withstand a good fish if the rod is used again
I have rebuilt a few of these fiberglass sticks over the years . Pictures of the wood would help id this stick easier .
I think it is a toss up between true Temper and Garcia .
I personal like the glass sticks ..
those really look good Joe,
this one, its reaaaally heavy, only option is to build it for bottom fishing or trolling (local trolling not off-shore like in the Pacific ocean)
Quote from: Cuttyhunker on March 29, 2021, 12:51:01 PM
dayone,
It's a one piecer glued together for keeps, Higher end rods going back to say the Tycoon's or later the Harnell's were ferruled at the seat. There would be a knurled ring at the end of the seat, usually the rod end, but could be either end, that threaded into the removable part. This one is a hardware store special lacking that and other upscale features. I still fish them, but like to use reels with rod clamps, and pay attention to the single screw seat. They seem to outnumber reels by about 3 to 1 at the flea markets.
I still say that is a 2 piece rod. I've had quite a few of them. They didn't have threaded ferrules, they just pushed together ( and usually froze that way with corrosion). The reason I suggested the Lakeland reel seat was to get the threaded ferrule. I've probably rebuilt a half dozen of these rods. They definitely weren't of the Harnell quality
Quote from: day0ne on March 30, 2021, 12:05:03 AM
I still say that is a 2 piece rod. I've had quite a few of them. They didn't have threaded ferrules, they just pushed together
yep, this one it has a ferrule on the foregrip and the reelseat, right now its frozen, I actually wanted to separated them and found out the wood that is inserted on the reargrip and reelseat is lose and cranking, hopefully only the glue is the one cranking and not the wood.
Back in the day Montague made a solid glass rod with a two piece handle. Here's one in really nice condition that still has its decal. (https://edsgoodstuff.com/edscart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4241) It looks looks kind of similar to yours, Alex. Most of the old solid glass casting & boat rods were a one piece rod, but the two piecers, spinning, etc. had to use ferrules since they had a solid core.
That small beaded lathe work is a signature of Montague. The bottom of the red mushroom butt cap should be marked Montague too.
All I know is I had a rod that looked a lot like it in the 70s. I tied about 8 ft of line to the tip (the conventional reel was siezed) and was the terror of every smelt, perch and occasional croaker or bass on the Oceanside, Ca T dock!
Great times
The Man
well, I already have a Montague rod (with the mushroom buttcap) with a missing metal reelseat (still not fixed) and also have a true temper ambassadeur solid glass (regular good shape but with the ferrule frozen and reelseat and running guides are not aligned, I couldnt separated yet), those two dont seem similar to this one I posted on this thread, this one is kind of appealing because the naked glass blank almost translucent while the others vintage rods are solid glass painted blanks.
check
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=28056.0
curious: since it's solid, can you sand aggressively to actually remove blank material & change taper... lighter tip, etc.
Quote from: philaroman on March 30, 2021, 08:19:04 PM
curious: since it's solid, can you sand aggressively to actually remove blank material & change taper... lighter tip, etc.
good question, but I doubt it.
(thinking for me) hmmm sounds like I would try.. just for the Science !!
(https://alantani.com/gallery/34/3592_13_03_21_12_48_12_34636729.jpeg)
Quote from: philaroman on March 30, 2021, 08:19:04 PM
curious: since it's solid, can you sand aggressively to actually remove blank material & change taper... lighter tip, etc.
May be possible but it would be a tedious and a mess. There would have to be a heavy finish coat to avoid splinters.
;D That green rod was sanded heavy , the tip was 14 and is now a 7 . A little over a hundred thousands came off in minutes with 120 sand paper in a drill .
320 grit was next , that will take care of the open glass , finish with 400 wet . I painted it green because it is my goose Island rod ...
Quote from: oldmanjoe on March 30, 2021, 10:40:31 PM
;D That green rod was sanded heavy , the tip was 14 and is now a 7 . A little over a hundred thousands came off in minutes with 120 sand paper in a drill .
320 grit was next , that will take care of the open glass , finish with 400 wet . I painted it green because it is my goose Island rod ...
pretty interesting Joe, so, what about of the rest of the blank? did you sanded from the handle to the tip or just the last half of the blank to reduce the taper and tip?
will it still handle a nice fish?
I worked about 3/4 of the stick , but most of the last half . While it is spinning i can bend and sand at the same time .
It is weird as you sand you can feel the new action develop in your hand . By keeping it in a bend and spinning it does not whip you !!!!!
You can make it a fast tip or a slow tip . Mine is a moderate fast action .
Quote from: oldmanjoe on March 30, 2021, 10:40:31 PM
;D That green rod was sanded heavy , the tip was 14 and is now a 7 . A little over a hundred thousands came off in minutes with 120 sand paper in a drill .
320 grit was next , that will take care of the open glass , finish with 400 wet . I painted it green because it is my goose Island rod ...
AWESOME!!! THANK YOU!!!
just what I wanted to hear from just the right direct, extended experience
mine is 9' & Mod/Slow -- pretty thick tip & comparatively thin at butt
I just want to thin it a bit, by hand, starting well above ferrule
is there any reason not to go finer -- well above 400-grit -- before final coat/paint?
thanks
Quote from: philaroman on March 31, 2021, 04:03:43 AM
Quote from: oldmanjoe on March 30, 2021, 10:40:31 PM
;D That green rod was sanded heavy , the tip was 14 and is now a 7 . A little over a hundred thousands came off in minutes with 120 sand paper in a drill .
320 grit was next , that will take care of the open glass , finish with 400 wet . I painted it green because it is my goose Island rod ...
AWESOME!!! THANK YOU!!!
just what I wanted to hear from just the right direct, extended experience
mine is 9' & Mod/Slow -- pretty thick tip & comparatively thin at butt
I just want to thin it a bit, by hand, starting well above ferrule
is there any reason not to go finer -- well above 400-grit -- before final coat/paint?
thanks
I feel that the paint has to bite to something ..
I wouldn't use wet and dry. The wet paste might be ground into the fiber. Better to let the paint or finish to go into the fiber. If I did use wet/dry I would want to do something after to get rid of the moisture.
Painting a rod can cover a lot of ills and the manufacturers take advantage of it. It is never a surprise to scrape off the finish and find some small irregularity below.
Quote from: oldmanjoe on March 31, 2021, 01:43:22 AM
I worked about 3/4 of the stick , but most of the last half . While it is spinning i can bend and sand at the same time .
Joe, I never asked you.
since is fiberglass, how do you managed to avoid fiberglass dust all over everything?
fiberglass dust is not a joke, do you used gloves and any special mask?
Im far from actually trying to sand mine cuz Im tu busy with repairs but it would nice to know in advance to be prepared
thanks compadre
I work outside in the driveway with the shop vacuum running to pick up the dust as it comes off the stick .
Leather glove is a plus , when you are cutting with 120 grit , a lot of hooks with open pores / strands of glass . It gets better after the 320 cut
Dust mask if needed .
I'd wet sand, maybe with small amount of running water.
Quote from: dlrider on May 13, 2021, 01:19:41 PM
I'd wet sand, maybe with small amount of running water.
I do that for the finial sanding ...
Quote from: oldmanjoe on May 13, 2021, 02:14:27 AM
I work outside in the driveway with the shop vacuum running to pick up the dust as it comes off the stick .
Leather glove is a plus , when you are cutting with 120 grit , a lot of hooks with open pores / strands of glass . It gets better after the 320 cut
Dust mask if needed .
I have never ever sanded down a solid glass rod, so, just to confirm, If I reduce the diameter few millimeters from the last half to the tip wouldnt that weaken the strength of the rod like making it prone to break on a small fish?
or it will still have the same un-breakable capabilities of the lighter solid glass rods on which you can almost bend them to a "U" form with no worries?
asking cuz the blank seems like a potential material for a "Whoper Stopper" mini rod, they are 4ft and 4.5ft long, that or just getting a new rainshadow solid glass blank, they are cheap as chips
Best that i can tell you is that you should try it on old stick . keep bending it as you go along and you will feel it soften up .
Turn a broom stick into a pole vaulter stick .
A few thoughts:
1. I believe that solid glass blanks have no cloth and the glass fibers are more or less distributed evenly, oriented mostly in the long direction of the blank.
2. Sanding down a solid blank to acheive a consistent taper with uniform roundness will be difficult, especially if you are taking off enough material to change the action.
3. When it comes to strength from the dimensions, the outside diameter of the blank section is the most important factor. Wall thickness comes second. But the the thicker the wall, the less additional thickness helps. IOW, going from a really thin walled blank to what we would typically consider a medium wall thickness will have a huge impact on blank durability, but going from medium wall thickness down to solid does not add much more. There are hoop strength formulas for all of this, but you have to choose the right one for the materials.
4. The point of a solid glass blank is simply cost. Since no cloth is used, there are no fibers encircling blank, making hoop strength weaker. The blank construction is fundamentally weaker and much less stiff for its weight. This is compensated mostly by making the blank diameter wider (outside diameter is king see #2), and helped a little bit more by making the wall thickness 100%. Solid construction is used because it is a cheaper, not better manufacturing method. Inferior material, but lots more of it. And because of the materials and manufacturing methods, progressive actions are difficult to achieve.
5. Sanding down a solid glass blank to change the action is making the outer diameter thinner, and the blank weaker. Combined with the difficulty of evenly reducing the dimensions by hand, the most likely outcome of significantly reforming the blank action with some sandpaper is a fundamentally weaker blank than if you bought a nice chunky tubular e-glass blank- which are often quite inexpensive as well.
Probably no harm in sanding a bit off to facilitate repainting. And playing a bit with the taper might be a fun exercise that might end up strong enough (if you don't mind the itching- and keep that dust away from your lungs). But it is not a way to get the best of both worlds of a durable cheap solid glass rod and a progressive taper with a thin tip.
My $0.02...
-J
Quote from: jurelometer on May 15, 2021, 06:01:37 PM
A few thoughts:
.............. Combined with the difficulty of evenly reducing the dimensions by hand, the most likely outcome of significantly reforming the blank action with some sandpaper is a fundamentally weaker blank than if you bought a nice chunky tubular e-glass blank- which are often quite inexpensive as well.
-J
that is mostly what really dont make it appeal to do it, the way the rod is rigth now make it good for cut bait fishing for a beginner or even loaner rod.
Steel,
I agree it's a fisher or loaner, a pigs ear not a silk purse. I missed the ferrule, uncommon in the K Mart specials back in the day and an upgrade from the norm, seems the designs breaking at the handle like yours are generally older, abandoned to one piece designs probably in pursuit of a price point as time wet on. There were a plethora of builders to the "hardware trade", I have a pair of old 8 foot True Temper boat rods ferruled like that with the Montague name on the label, early on, I expect, after Monty/OC was bought out.
Got another two Old fishing rods Made in USA
Shakespeare Wonderod 8ft saltwater and Gamefisher from Sears Roebuck.
the Gamefishers feels heavy and seems to be a cheapo solidglass 6.6rod but the Shakespeare Wonderod have some interesting lettering "the straight fiber petented rod trademarked by the Spiral markings".
any one have an opinion or experience with this wonderod by Shakespeare?
pics 1, 2 & 3 Gamefisher by Sears, the rest are Wonderod by Shakespeare
wonderod is GOLD!!! ...very generally -- a Wonder is a more moderate Ugly
I think both are "Howald process" -- older Wonder is all glass / later Ugly has some graphite
(I guess, WR blank weight is tiny bit higher than Ugly, as well)
Quote from: philaroman on June 07, 2021, 05:56:24 PM
wonderod is GOLD!!! ...very generally -- a Wonder is a more moderate Ugly
I think both are "Howald process" -- older Wonder is all glass / later Ugly has some graphite
(I guess, WR blank weight is tiny bit higher than Ugly, as well)
this Wonderod seems like a better candidate for installing better guides and leave it as loaner rod, the 1st one on the OP was way too heavy
yeah, my opinion is from short L/UL perspective... maybe flyrod-to-spinner convert
I guess w/ a SW 8-footer, blank weight is progressively more issue, HOWEVER
if you strip off all that wood & steel, you may discover a blank good enough for personal use
worst case scenario, light modern handle would make a loaner that is MUCH more enjoyable
and even more durable, the way YOU build 'em
Quote from: philaroman on June 07, 2021, 08:33:12 PM
HOWEVER
if you strip off all that wood & steel, you may discover a blank good enough for personal use
this WOnderod is 2 pc, like many of that time, just below the foregrip and before the reel seat nut you can separate the rod in two pc, but still if I tear off all the wood on the foregrip I can have around 6.6ft of blank to work with, which is still a good size for a drop loop rod.
if you want to minimize effort ;) might be a good 6'+ tip section,
for well-matched butt section made from broken heavier graphite rod
Quote from: philaroman on June 08, 2021, 01:13:21 AM
if you want to minimize effort ;) might be a good 6'+ tip section,
for well-matched butt section made from broken heavier graphite rod
I didnt though about that but sounds like a clever idea, cut both rods and insert the 6.6ft blank into the buttsection as you would it on an aluminium or Slickbutt.
thanks for the tip compadre
PS: I think I have some broken Heavy graphite rods that I saved for use them as "free" Gaff grips, I will check that out soon.
So i ended up with a rod very similar to the one in the OP, labeled as a montague. Can anyone help me put a date on this beast? It came attached to the very old penn senator that I bought on CL for $30. At a minimum the handle is gonna need some sanding, I already got one splinter. Quite heavy rod, no idea of the line or lure rating, that part of the markings is worn off. Has 2 guides plus roller tip.
My dad got this at a sale today,,,,,,,, :o he said it was like 20ft long and looks it,,,,, :-\ but it's 13ft and maybe custom built in the 70's best guess Carolina surf rod,,,,,,? ;D
that looks like very nice thin-wall glass
if it were solid, Dad would have put it back 1 sec. after trying to lift it ;D
Quote from: philaroman on August 21, 2021, 08:02:08 PM
that looks like very nice thin-wall glass
if it were solid, Dad would have put it back 1 sec. after trying to lift it ;D
Yes thin wall glass,,,,,, ;D
Tried it out,,,, ;) no fish on it,,,but it casts great with a 706 and the way it loads up,,,,, ;D
That's a beast. The blank looks like Fenwick but it's hard to tell with the custom build. There could not have been many kinds of 13 ft. one-piece blanks. Chris (1badf350) or someone else here might have old Fenwick catalogs.
Silaflex and Conolon made 1 piece 13' blanks, I have a few, could be a Fenwick too. Post a few close-ups of the glass, might provide a hint.
I blew up Benny's picture and it shows a little better. The color is wrong for Conolon but it could easily be Silaflex. Actually, I like Silaflex as a guess better than Fenwick. But, it would be pre-Browning Sialflex because Brownings are more brown and less reddish. That would make it 1950's or early 1960's.
It's got a nice feel to it for the age,,,,,, ;D
You can see the spirals from the cellophane when it was baked. The only pre-Browning Silaflex I have does not have the spirals.
The rod build (either factory or custom) would have probably been cork rings back in the day. I don't know when that cork wrap stuff came out Maybe 1970's? It could easily have been a rebuild though.
"orangy-brown" spiral looks close to Daiwa Surf 12' 2-pc rods
is it definitely a 1-pc blank? ...seems unlikely Daiwa sold those in US
could it be a rebuilt/extended/perma-joined Daiwa 12-footer
Fenwick made a 14ft,,,,could a ft have taken off the butt,,,,,, :-\
Jason,
I picked up a pair of Montague/True tempers, both names on the rods, see my post on page 3 here, same green as yours and are 8' boat rods. If mine are from the ownership transfer period your's may be just a little older, if only having the Monty name on them.
Quote from: Cuttyhunker on August 23, 2021, 06:15:33 PM
Jason,
I picked up a pair of Montague/True tempers, both names on the rods, see my post on page 3 here, same green as yours and are 8' boat rods. If mine are from the ownership transfer period your's may be just a little older, if only having the Monty name on them.
I was beginning to worry that Benni3 stole the show with his admittedly way more interesting find. I don't know if this will ever see use. I also got hold of an old penn long Beach rod that feels like it's also solid glass. Maybe I'll commit sacrilege and turn them both into heavy spinning boat rods.
well, if it's solid, it bends same in every direction, correct?
no sacrilege, no sp(l)ine search, no seat replacement... you're half-done ;D
Quote from: JasonGotaPenn on August 24, 2021, 02:07:31 PM
Quote from: Cuttyhunker on August 23, 2021, 06:15:33 PM
Jason,
I picked up a pair of Montague/True tempers, both names on the rods, see my post on page 3 here, same green as yours and are 8' boat rods. If mine are from the ownership transfer period your's may be just a little older, if only having the Monty name on them.
I was beginning to worry that Benni3 stole the show with his admittedly way more interesting find. I don't know if this will ever see use. I also got hold of an old penn long Beach rod that feels like it's also solid glass. Maybe I'll commit sacrilege and turn them both into heavy spinning boat rods.
Split some 1 inch sanding belts and make a cork reamer or two. Slow taper like that is usually better for a reamer than most blanks. And then there is always tomato stakes. Those old solid glass rods were mostly good for not breaking as rental rods on party boat day trips back in the day. They didn't even fish that well back then.
Quote from: Benni3 on August 22, 2021, 03:41:04 AM
Tried it out,,,, ;) no fish on it,,,but it casts great with a 706 and the way it loads up,,,,, ;D
Plus if you bring a nerf ball, you and Marlo can shoot hoops with that bottom guide while waiting for a bite. ;D
-J
Quote from: jurelometer on August 24, 2021, 06:04:30 PM
Quote from: JasonGotaPenn on August 24, 2021, 02:07:31 PM
Quote from: Cuttyhunker on August 23, 2021, 06:15:33 PM
Jason,
I picked up a pair of Montague/True tempers, both names on the rods, see my post on page 3 here, same
Quote from: Benni3 on August 22, 2021, 03:41:04 AM
Tried it out,,,, ;) no fish on it,,,but it casts great with a 706 and the way it loads up,,,,, ;D
Plus if you bring a nerf ball, you and Marlo can shoot hoops with that bottom guide while waiting for a bite. ;D
-J
A member here is almost sure it was made in OBX same wrap style,,,,, ;) and the guys on striper.com think's it's a fenwick or daiwa blank,,,,,,,,, ;D
Def looks like some old Daiwa's I have. Fenwick of the period had root-beer colored s-glass blanks that were sought after at the time, but I think yours looks more like the Daiwa. My 0.019999.
Is it a lami supercutter 1164,,,,,, :-\
Did you have any luck on identifying it? I've been trying to identify this rod my grandpa gave me 20 years ago and haven't had any luck.
Can anyone ID this for me?
sorry amigo, I dont recognize the lettering, hopefully someone will help you soon
Quote from: steelfish on April 01, 2024, 04:54:31 PMsorry amigo, I dont recognize the lettering, hopefully someone will help you soon
Thank you
Being able to read the label won't tell you much about the rod. In their day, it seemed like every fishing brand and every family had those translucent solid glass rods, many with identical handles. They were inexpensive compared to tubular glass, mostly reliable and took a lot of abuse. They were heavy compared to tubular glass and that hardwood handle helped balance the swing weight. They did get "soft" through use though and would lose their power.
The greenish glass says Montigue/True Temper, I don't know if any others used that color as well or if Monte/TT were putting out trade named rods? Is, or was Lains(?) a tackle retailer in the past, like K-Mart? The 895 rings a bell I think as a Monte or TT thing, but I'm away from my pile of oldies for a while so I can't check it out right now. Do you have the top section of the rod? If I'm looking to dress them up or keep an oldie as a fisher I cut off or rasp the base to size so I can epoxy on a nylon gimbal, and maybe re wrap, replace, or overwrap the guides depending on condition, Then I finish with several coats of easy to use latex spar varnish over everything but the gimbal and seat. Your seat looks better than the aluminum K Mart OceanSide series that would corrode as if welded into place and you seem to have the better 2 lock nuts for the seat slide. If I see the 895 code I'll let you know.