I have previously done tutorials on the Zebco Cardinal 4, 6 & 7. While not much different than the Cardinal 4, I decided to also do one on the Cardinal 3. This one uses the tan & black ABU Cardinal 3 as the example but the ABU and Zebco versions are basically the same, just different colors. This was actually a rebuild of the Cardinal 3 Frankenreel I picked a while back. Disassembly will generally be just the opposite of this reassembly process.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_4_52_25_275452330.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_4_52_25_27543258.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_4_52_24_275431359.jpeg)
All the internal parts were wiped off and soaked in a jar with lacquer thinner, except the bearing, for a couple of days. The bearing was soaked for a couple of hours and then removed. Both sides of the bearing were lubed with synthetic oil so that it could soak into the ball and race area. It did not need to be re-greased. The plastics and painted body parts were cleaned with Original White Goop (NO PUMICE), then washed in warm water & Dawn and thoroughly dried.
Here are the parts, a bevy of them, cleaned, dried and ready for reassembly.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_57_46_274801243.jpeg)
My first step, before my fingers get all greasy, is to assemble the rotor and bail mechanism. The bail springs are wound opposite and this photo shows them relative to their correct side. They must be installed on the correct side or they will be bent, sprung and difficult, if not impossible, to re-bend or adjust.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_57_47_275012155.jpeg)
No need to fight or struggle with bail spring installation. Install the spring and bail arm on the roller guide side. I use ArmorAll for lubricating bail arms and springs because it stays slick and does not collect dirt or get gummed up.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_57_48_27502680.jpeg)
I lightly grease the bail trip screw hole. I also add some on the nylon trip bar and install the bail stopper (trip lever) and spring. Once installed, you can pull the bail stopper back to allow the bail arm to rest correctly on it.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_57_53_27504177.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_57_50_27503336.jpeg)
Next we thread the bail plate all the way onto the bail and then back it off 1/2 to one full turn. Check the bail to make sure it lines up perfectly with the hole in the bail arm. Bend or adjust it if needed so that there is no pressure sideways or up and down. Other than gummed up bail springs, misalignment is the single biggest reason why bails don't work properly.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_57_54_275051625.jpeg)
Once the bail is adjusted for perfect fit rotate the bail plate so that it lays parallel with the bail.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_57_56_27506518.jpeg)
Install the spring and bail plate/bail adding a drop or two of ArmorAll, or lube of your choice. Once installed rotate the bail in the appropriate direction to get tension on the spring and then turn the bail 90 degrees to line up with the hole in the bail arm. Have the line roller, teflon bushing, protecting washer and bail nut ready for installation. If the bail is adjusted properly lube the teflon bushing, roller guide and protecting washer with ArmorAll and install them. Check to see that the bail snaps back with authority and if not adjust accordingly. Set the rotor aside for later installation.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_57_57_275072131.jpeg)
Now it's time to move to the body.
First, install the anti-reverse button using the e-clip. Add a little grease on the screw and install the anti-reverse hook (lever) & spring. Lube the screw/lever/spring connection. I use oil there.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_57_58_27508314.jpeg)
Next, assemble the drag stack & fulcrum mechanism. Notice these came with fiber drag discs. The washers are lying in the order they go together, from the right to left: click washer/gear, SS washer, carbon washer, SS keyed washer, carbon washer, SS washer, SS spring washer. All washers install on the long side of the click washer. The flat side of the washers rest against the side of the body. The recess is for washer clearance. Lightly grease and oil between all washers.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_58_01_27509237.jpeg)
Turn the brake screw into the brake cashing all the way, grease the flange and slip it into the hole. Now install the brake arm. Don't install the insert support yet. Make sure all the flat sides on the SS washers line up with each other. Push the brake arm back as far as possible and install the drag stack in one piece with the short end into the worm gear/pinion bushing making sure all three SS washer flat sides are down against body.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_58_02_275102095.jpeg)
Push the top of the brake arm forward and install the insert support. Make sure there is sufficient grease there in all locations. Tighten the brake cashing just enough so there is slight pressure on the drag stack keeping all washers in their correct position.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_58_06_27511454.jpeg)
Now we're ready to install the pinion/worm gear, bearing and rotor. Install the o-ring on the pinion gear in the groove just behind the linear anti-reverse teeth. The o-ring reduces anti-reverse click noise. Grease the rear pinion bushing and the pinion/worm gear inside and out and slide it into place through the front of the body.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_58_06_27511605.jpeg)
Grease the bearing cavity and bearing and slide it into place. Secure the bearing with the split ring retainer. Grease the front edge of the housing and bail trip stud.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_58_08_275132061.jpeg)
Install the rotor cup using the locking washer and hex nut.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_58_16_275162435.jpeg)
Now it's time to install the main gear, main shaft and oscillation arm connecting link. Grease, lube and install the main gear, not forgetting to install the larger spring washer between the gear and housing bushing.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_58_11_275141849.jpeg)
Grease, lube and install the main shaft. Now is a good time to spin the main shaft while making sure the drag stack is aligned and functioning correctly. Also, don't forget to install the spring washer between the main gear and connecting link (oscillation arm), and the spring washer at the rear of the main shaft in front of the connecting link attachment holder. Grease, lube and install the connecting link (oscillation arm) onto the main gear and main shaft using e-clips at both locations. Check and lube/oil any areas or connections that may have been omitted and make sure there is adequate grease on the main and pinion gear teeth. I also like to add a drop or two of oil to the main shaft in the pinion gear and both ends of the connecting link at the e-clip studs.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_58_14_275152276.jpeg)
It's time to install the brake knob & retention spring, side-plate, handle dust cover & felt washer, crank handle and spool. The brake knob screw is reverse thread, so be aware of that issue. A quick test makes sure everything everything is working properly.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_58_17_275172398.jpeg)
All done and "Frankie" turned into a reel :) beauty.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_58_20_27518126.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_58_19_275181844.jpeg)
Here are both the ABU & Zebco Cardinal 3 side by side. The clean & restore process is the same for both reels.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_58_24_275211143.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/17004_03_04_19_2_58_22_275202059.jpeg)
Thanks for an outstanding tutorial, Tommy —
Most of you already know — but for those who do not...the ABU & Zebco Cardinals are among the highest quality spinning reels ever produced.
Personally, for the high country and back country fishing I do up here in the Sierras — a Cardinal 3 is one of my all time favorites.
The gearing, construction, and unique rear under drag system — is outstanding in both ease of function and durability.
Plus, Tommy is considered by many to be the premier expert on these in the world.
We can ask Daron, Harry, or John about these — they know the quality.
Pair up a Cardinal 3, a Fenwick, Eagle Claw, or Ugly Stick 5 or 5 1/2' rod, and 4lb. mono — and the fun begins with a well balanced combo.
Best,
Fred
Another excellent tutorial Tom! A really nice reel, but I was never crazy about the rear drag system.
Of course this is just my opinion, I'm not an expert...just an observer.
I'm enjoying all of your work Tom, keep it up.
Sal
You make it look so easy, Tommy. Those old Cardinals don't come cheap on the auction.
One of my friends is strictly a b@$$ fisherman. He fishes a couple of Cardinal 4 when he goes spinning, and old Abu baitcasters for heavier stuff.. Pretty much all his reels are from the 1970s and 80s.
Sal, those rear drags are handy, but l'm still reluctant to take them apart.
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 04, 2019, 09:27:44 AM
Another excellent tutorial Tom! A really nice reel, but I was never crazy about the rear drag system.
Of course this is just my opinion, I'm not an expert...just an observer.
I'm enjoying all of your work Tom, keep it up.
Sal
I'm not a huge fan of the straight rear drag models, either. IMO, though, they're still more efficient and easier to adjust in fight than most front drags. The fulcrum aspect is, in my mind, though, one of the best drag systems ever designed. That's why they are so popular with many serious anglers and still have high demand to this day.
Thanks for posting Tommy...one of these days I'll add a 3 to my stable...waiting for that "steal of a lifetime". 8)
Quote from: Midway Tommy on April 04, 2019, 02:23:21 PM
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 04, 2019, 09:27:44 AM
Another excellent tutorial Tom! A really nice reel, but I was never crazy about the rear drag system.
Of course this is just my opinion, I'm not an expert...just an observer.
I'm enjoying all of your work Tom, keep it up.
Sal
I'm not a huge fan of the straight rear drag models, either. IMO, though, they're still more efficient and easier to adjust in fight than most front drags. The fulcrum aspect is, in my mind, though, one of the best drag systems ever designed. That's why they are so popular with many serious anglers and still have high demand to this day.
Tommy, I have nothing bad to say about the design, it's just that on a 6 lb reel it doesn't make sense to me.
It might be easier to adjust, but much harder to replace the washers.
I really like the Abu/Garcia reel.
For my personal preference though, I'll stick with drags on the spool, top or bottom.
Sal
Great Tutorial as Usual Tommy.
The Cardinal is one of My Favorites.
You can just tell when you pick it up and crank it.
It feels like a well tuned machine.
My Grandfather and Uncle's always treasured these reels when I was a youngster.
I now know why. ;)
Always enjoy your tutorials, Tommy. Lots of info. Schematics for most, if not all , of these reels are available & handy too.
I like the rear drag reels. Not sure that the fulcrum brake design adds much to a decent straight rear drag, except perhaps a little easier to reach when a fish is on. But that gear train is something else. Steel and brass/bronze, one ball bearing where it does the most good; bronze bushings supporting the main axle and back of the pinion gear shaft, and an anti-reverse ahead of the gears to save on stress. A feel of a well-built machine.
Frank
Thanks for the compliments, guys! My main objective is to try to make it a little easier and help those that are a little gun shy about tearing into one of these guys. A couple of tips can sure boost confidence.
Frank,
From personal experience you are correct about it being a little easier to adjust the drag from under the rear rather than straight from behind. One major advantage of the fulcrum aspect is that pressure applied by the leverage of the brake arm, when adjusted appropriately, is much more consistent, and constant, than compression spring tension. Finite adjustments are a lot easier to accomplish, too. Probably, though, only the pickiest anglers would really notice much difference. Most people, more than likely, wouldn't even be able to tell.
One thing I have noticed about the drags in these reels, and I've been into at least a couple hundred of them, is I've never found a drag washer, SS or fiber, that has required replacement. I've found a couple where they had been worked hard or stored with too much tension on the drag but after a little cleaning & a good soak they still had a lot of use left in them. I can't say that for a good number of the spool drag designs I've serviced. Granted, these things aren't used to catch 200# tuna or billfish but they're still used for some tough freshwater guys like musky, pike, big cats, etc. I would guess that having the components protected from the elements, especially water & sand has a lot to do with that.
So the fiber drag washers on the 3's are not keyed to the click washer, as on the 4? I see that there's a keyed ss washer between the 2 fiber washers for the 3. I like that much better, if I'm visualizing the function right.
The Armor-all. Do you use it like oil, or wipe it on and let it dry?
Like oil, a drop or two in the spring cavity & insert the spring. After the bail is installed rotate it a few times to distribute it & wipe off what leaks out to the bail arm & plate. It protects them, too. To add some down the road just add a drop or two into the square that the spring end rests. It will distribute from there when rotated. You can also loosen the bail screws a turn or two and let some flow in between them. It will also leak back into the spring cavity.
Thanks.
Reason I's interested in the drag sys. on the 3, I torqued the drag pressure on my first 4 and busted both the old CF washers. Had a heck ofa time making new ones that'ed work as a i.d.-keyed washerand never really succeeded.
Quote from: Gfish on April 06, 2019, 03:33:00 PM
Thanks.
Reason I's interested in the drag sys. on the 3, I torqued the drag pressure on my first 4 and busted both the old CF washers. Had a heck ofa time making new ones that'ed work as a i.d.-keyed washer and never really succeeded.
Greg,
Have you ever considered getting the appropriate size stainless steel washer with the same diameter center hole as the width of the nylon click washer and then filing the hole oblong like the keyed carbon washer, then using it in between the carbon washers in place of the original center pointed SS washer? If you did that your round hole carbon fiber washers would probably work just fine.
I've never tightened mine down hard enough to cause a problem because I use light line & I don't want it to break but it might work for your intent. That's how the drags in the later black Japanese Cardinal 4 & 5 are set up, although they added one more carbon washer. I'm not sure if there's room for that 3rd one on the click washer but two would probably be sufficient.
At the risk of being yelled at for opening an old post I'm responding to this with a question that's been driving me a bit nuts. I'm working on restoring an ole Cardinal 3 that belonged to a deceased fishing buddy of mine. The reel was pretty battered and this tutorial has beed a huge help in putting back in sort of working order, The problem I'm having is with the bail, triggering system and pivots . I have it back together accordingto the diagrams and descriptions here but it doesn't seem to want to trip correctly and hangs up on the pivots when its trying to close. I'd be grateful for any insights or suggestions. I suspect I'll never actually use it but it'd be nice to have it working. Thanks for your indulgence.
You'll never get yelled at for activating an old thread, that's what they're here for, to help people through their restoration or service processes.
From your description it sounds like your bail has been bent or twisted out of alignment, but it's hard to tell without photos.
Assuming the bail is bent or twisted as described you can manually realign it by removing the wire from the bail arm and bail plate and checking to make sure that they both turn freely with good spring on their bail screws. Once you know they are not hanging up on anything you can start to adjust the formation of the bail by slightly bending it into alignment so that it lines up perfectly with the bail arm and bail plate in their closed position. Once you get to that point you can reattach the the bail and see if it closes properly. If the bail isn't aligned perfectly it will cause a bind and the bail will hang up while closing. You may have to take it loose multiple times to adjust/tweak it to get line up perfectly.
This can all be done with the rotor attached to the body but I have found that it is much easier and quicker to have the rotor loose and separate from the body. Then you don't have to maneuver around body constrictions. You might want to go back to the early part of the tutorial where the rotor hasn't yet been attached to the body and review some of those steps.
Hope that helps and good luck.
Tom,
I always reuse the same e-clips when I service my Cardinals and just was curious if you Happen to know the sizes for the Zebco Cardinal 3 & 4 for the spindle,connecting link,& AR button.I saw a HF set that may include them?
https://www.harborfreight.com/300-piece-e-clip-assortment-67653.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12169520316&campaignid=12169520316&utm_content=120871697270&adsetid=120871697270&product=67653&store=706&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2KH1h-C-ggMVoyzUAR1GLA5KEAQYAiABEgL8iPD_BwE
James, no I don't know the size. A few years ago I bought 100 each of about 10 different sizes from McMaster Carr so I would have just about everything covered for all the different vintage reels I work on. If I need one I just grab the one closest to the size I need.
Hey Tom,
I did like you suggested. Went back over everything and checked out the bail components for alignment. The spring on the bail plate was knackered and I replaced it. It was actually quite a bugger to get positioned correctly. It took about a half dozen tries to get it seated so it didn't bind up when I tightened the screw. Finally got it and now it works as it should. My pal Donny would be happy. To bad he's not around.
Thanks again.