Is there a way to restore the finish on anodized parts?
I've been trying to find someone to re-anodize some parts for my 970 but all the quotes have been outrageous.
I'm trying to do the rings and a few other parts.
(https://postimg.org/image/cfm731es9/)
(https://postimg.org/image/tg53bmzih/)
(https://postimg.org/image/nf7eeofi1/)
I'd love to get them all matching!
What do you guys think about powder coating or even painting them??
I haven't tried it yet. But when I get set up this fall I will be cera-koting some of my reels. It has proven to be stupid strong. We took some SEALs for a ride and a few of them had coated there own gear and said nothing you can do at home would be better.
Ron
Google DIY anodizing. You need battery acid, some other chemicals and a DC power supply. Unless you completely strip the old anodizing and surface prep everything there would be no way to get a consistent color. There was a guy here that described his set-up but he disappeared pretty quickly and I don't remember seeing any results.
If you paint it the results will look like an old reel that someone painted.
-steve
I looked into the DIY anodizing and with 6 young children at home, I don't think I want to mess with that. Not liking the quotes on the powder coating and cerakote either. Looks like this build will be more of a rat rod reel LOL.
Maybe not the prettiest on the outside, but it's what's under the hood that counts right?
Chad, I have a project coming up with Moly Resin. I have not used it before but my friend Richard has with good results.
I'm planning on buying a cheap air brush as I don't want to ruin my good one. 8 oz runs around $35.00.
It will be a while but I'll let you know when I give it a shot.
Regard's, .. Lou
PS according to Richard, its cheaper, easier to work with, and more durable than Cerakote.
Quote from: STRIPER LOU on March 21, 2018, 09:39:22 PM
Chad, I have a project coming up with Moly Resin. I have not used it before but my friend Richard has with good results.
I'm planning on buying a cheap air brush as I don't want to ruin my good one. 8 oz runs around $35.00.
It will be a while but I'll let you know when I give it a shot.
Regard's, .. Lou
Just googled it. Looks very interesting, thanks Lou!
Quote from: Ron Jones on March 21, 2018, 04:15:31 AM
I haven't tried it yet. But when I get set up this fall I will be cera-koting some of my reels. It has proven to be stupid strong. We took some SEALs for a ride and a few of them had coated there own gear and said nothing you can do at home would be better.
Ron
Like Ron, I am also thinking about cerakote on a few reels.
Not sure what I will need, but it looks like it can be done at home with an airbrush, countertop toaster oven, etc.
Would be nice to do some Quicks, Mitchells, and Penns — in unique colors.
Best,
Fred
Lou sounds interesting (like most things you do) ;D Keep us posted please :)
Quote from: xjchad on March 21, 2018, 09:30:20 PMI looked into the DIY anodizing and with 6 young children at home, I don't think I want to mess with that. Not liking the quotes on the powder coating and cerakote either.
Check this out . . .
https://hackaday.com/2011/10/17/anodizing-and-dying-aluminum-without-battery-acid/ (https://hackaday.com/2011/10/17/anodizing-and-dying-aluminum-without-battery-acid/)http://www.observationsblog.com/sciencetechnologyexperiments/anodizing-and-dying-aluminum-without-battery-acid (http://www.observationsblog.com/sciencetechnologyexperiments/anodizing-and-dying-aluminum-without-battery-acid)Tight Lines !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jFN3l_mrKk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jFN3l_mrKk)
That sodium bisulfate stuff is what I use to clean the corrosion and scale off of metal parts instead of using vinegar. Jewelers call it pickling.
-steve
Yeah, Steve, I remember that post by that guy that disappeared, I don't think he showed an end result. I hope he's OK :) Sodium bisulfate is a stronger acid than is acetic acid. It is basically sulfuric (battery) acid that has already given up one of its two hydrogen atoms, so it's not as strong as sulfuric acid (which was the reason for its popularity in this process). It's still a relatively strong acid and needs to be used with great care. Exactly how strong it is depends on how much of the powder is used to make the working solution. That's basically all I can say without getting all technical about ionization constants and such. It's an improvement on the sulfuric acid technique because it is safer, but it probably takes a little longer to do its thing. As in all projects of this type, the end result will depend more on the initial prep than on the anodization process itself.
what happened to the anodization finish? IS it suppose to wear with use or was it like this since day 1?This plates are made of aluminium right? So they shouldnt rust but corrode right?
Most platers have a minimum lot charge. Same price for one part or as many fit on the dipping rack.
Your best bet would be to get together and group parts. First all the old anodize needs to be stripped. So if a few of you guys send your stuff in as one lot, you will split the lot charge among all the pieces. Once you get your stripped parts back you can body shop them as you see fit, sand, drill, mill, whatever, just no bondo or JB weld or and thing like that. Next is the hard part... you all will need to group parts by color, because, again, there is the lot charge per color.
Hope this helps,
Tom
Quote from: Reel Beaker on March 24, 2018, 07:22:47 AM
what happened to the anodization finish? IS it suppose to wear with use or was it like this since day 1?This plates are made of aluminium right? So they shouldnt rust but corrode right?
Rust is just another name for iron corrosion. Since they're not iron, they can't rust. You can substitute oxidation for corrosion and say the same thing as well.
Why not just try painting the parts? If it turns out like crap it can easily be removed. I've had some pretty nice results with a spray can on reel parts. The way I see it, if I need shiny perfect anodizing I'll spring for a mint reel. If I'm just restoring an old warrior to do battle again...a coat of Rustoleum works just fine. 8)
We use sodium sulfite in our DA tank as a oxygen scavenger for our boilers. It's used for allot of things.
Mike
QuoteFirst all the old anodize needs to be stripped
I'm kinda curious what would happen if you didn't do this. What if you just got rid of the corroded bits and shined up the raw aluminum, but left the rest of the anodize intact? Would the new color simply adhere to the raw bits? Might make for a pretty cool looking reel!
-Mike
Quote from: Fishy247 on April 10, 2018, 03:50:18 PM
QuoteFirst all the old anodize needs to be stripped
I'm kinda curious what would happen if you didn't do this. What if you just got rid of the corroded bits and shined up the raw aluminum, but left the rest of the anodize intact? Would the new color simply adhere to the raw bits? Might make for a pretty cool looking reel!
-Mike
Has anyone done this? Would love to see a picture...
I have a Daiwa 8700 that I have been trying to decide what to do next. I was going to re-paint the entire reel, but I kinda like the original finish. It does has a good portion of the reel showing the raw aluminium (I believe it is aluminium, but someone can correct me).
I thought about stripping everything and polish the aluminium but that seems like tons of elbow grease. I may do this in the winter if I get bored with nothing to do lol...
Another thought is to maybe just clean it up and clear coat it, but not sure how long that will last if the original fish is peeling off...
i think Daiwa 8000 (not "A") series, only spool is black-anodized
When anodizing,The parts hang on a rack that has small amount of electrical current that runs thru each part on that rack. If you want to re-anodize a portion of a part, you'd hafta also strip away the anodizing where the rack prongs make contact. The end result will be sub par at best
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=28230.0 (https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=28230.0)
Quote from: BCT7 on June 01, 2021, 08:45:21 PM
Quote from: Fishy247 on April 10, 2018, 03:50:18 PM
QuoteFirst all the old anodize needs to be stripped
I'm kinda curious what would happen if you didn't do this. What if you just got rid of the corroded bits and shined up the raw aluminum, but left the rest of the anodize intact? Would the new color simply adhere to the raw bits? Might make for a pretty cool looking reel!
-Mike
Has anyone done this? Would love to see a picture...
I have a Daiwa 8700 that I have been trying to decide what to do next. I was going to re-paint the entire reel, but I kinda like the original finish. It does has a good portion of the reel showing the raw aluminium (I believe it is aluminium, but someone can correct me).
I thought about stripping everything and polish the aluminium but that seems like tons of elbow grease. I may do this in the winter if I get bored with nothing to do lol...
Another thought is to maybe just clean it up and clear coat it, but not sure how long that will last if the original fish is peeling off...
Do it. (Reel pictured is not a daiwa, but you get the idea). Just carve out 20 hours.
Quote from: philaroman on June 01, 2021, 09:02:17 PM
i think Daiwa 8000 (not "A") series, only spool is black-anodized
Gotcha thanks. So the body itself is painted, right? Sorry for dumb question, I literally do not know what I am doing lol.
I have a Daiwa 2600C that is in bad condition too that I may use as my practice run if I want to re-paint a reel instead of using my 8700. I am still trying to understand what to do (or not to do) when one re-paint a reel.
@JasonGotaPenn - that looks awesome! Do you polish by hand or like using dremel? I been watching people using dremel on youtube, not sure how that will work on a reel.
Quote from: BCT7 on June 11, 2021, 11:44:30 AM
I am still trying to understand what to do (or not to do) when one re-paint a reel.
Fred, oh Fred, somebody is calling.
those mid-size C's are pretty cheap -- get another one!
put all the best parts in the better body & polish the more worn one at your leisure
Press a couple of drops of gentle dishwashing cleanser into some water. Apply the soapy water to a grating wipe and clean the aluminum vivaciously. Anodized aluminum requires a rough touch with a delicate cleaning arrangement, as numerous cruel cleaning items will respond with the aluminum.