Quote from: BigT on March 19, 2010, 12:34:02 PM
Here's my other recent project... hope this one is up to the expectations of Alan and members too.
Ok... so here's a little job for a fishing mate of mine who, because their slovenly nature will become apparently shortly, will remain nameless to protect the guilty.
First, the schematics...
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/displayimage.php?album=27&pos=21
So, I was handed this reel with a sad-eyed and hopeful look. For some reason, it didn't seem to be working as well as it did when it was made in the early 90's. So let's crack open this ABU 10000CL and see what the problem is.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/001.jpg)
The first thing to do is remove the handle assembly. Back out the handle nut locking screw (ref #8907). Then the handle nut collar (ref #4581) slips off. Here's the first problem... the thread in the handle for the screw has been badly damaged by corrosion. We'll have to sort that out later.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/003.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/004.jpg)
Next the handle nut (ref #6968) can be removed. There's an 'e' clip to remove carefully before the handle can come off.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/005.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/006.jpg)
Now... it was at about this time that I made my first phone call to my fishing buddy to tell him what I thought of his maintenance regime. >:(
I spent about 10 minutes trying to remove the handle, gazing at the schematic while scratching my head, then trying again. It finally dawned on me that the handle didn't have some hidden retaining mechanism... it was just corroded solid. Finally, when finesse failed me, brute force did the trick...
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/007.jpg)
revealing this...
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/008.jpg)
A couple of belleville washers need to come off (ref #9751 & #9376) followed by unscrewing the drag star (ref #9696)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/009.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/010.jpg)
Now the 2 screws securing the right side-plate can be removed and the side plate will slip off.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/011.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/012.jpg)
My friend's house-keeping wasn't much better in here... 'just adding more lube' only works to a point ;)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/013.jpg)
Let's start cleaning up... slip off the spacing sleeve/shield assembly and pull it apart for cleaning.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/014.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/015.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/016.jpg)
Having 2 speed gearing, there are 2 drive gears. The smaller 'low gear' drive gear slips easily off the drive shaft.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/017.jpg)
Remove the drag washers... the metal washers are stacked... and there's a washer beneath the gear too
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/018.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/019.jpg)
Now, to get at the larger, high speed drive gear, you'll need to partially dismantle the clutch. Begin by removing the yoke spring retainer (ref #8845), yoke spring (ref #9741) and thrust washer (ref # not shown on schematic)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/020.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/021.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/022.jpg)
Next, detach and remove the 2 clutch slider springs (ref #9715 & 4055)... carefully so that they don't fly into the never-never.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/023.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/024.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/025.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/026.jpg)
With a bit of careful manipulation, the yoke should now lift off allowing you to remove the pinion gear (ref #9737).
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/027.jpg)
The remaining drive gear and drive shaft can now by lifted off and dismantled. Hopefully yours won't look quite as bad as this one. I don't think the ABU engineers would like seeing their drag systems swimming in gunge & oil like this.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/028.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/029.jpg)
If you've ever heard anyone talking about drag washers getting 'compressed' this is what it can look like...
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/030.jpg)
And the same with the washer beneath the drive gear (that bit that looks like torn metal is actually the drag clicker).
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/031.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/032.jpg)
We won't be using the drag washers again so into the bin they go... funny, my friend didn't seem too fazed by the drag giving in 'lumps'... just another litre or 2 of oil and the problem seemed to fade... for a while. :-\
Now we can disassemble the rest of the clutch... This particular 10000CL uses a special composite lubricant that is 30% grease, 10% oil, 20% salt water and 40% river mud (the reel literally spent days in a river when it flooded their house and only the outside was cleaned)... pretty, isn't it?
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/033.jpg)
Remove the clutch cam (ref #9713) and slider (ref #9710)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/034.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/035.jpg)
and while you're at it, put aside the anti-reverse dog (ref #8948)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/036.jpg)
Remove the worst of your river mud (or the old grease, depending on your reel) then back out all the screws securing the right side mounting plate (ref #15018)... there are 6 screw in total, holding all the various support bars, reel seat and line guide assembly.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/037.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/038.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/039.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/040.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/041.jpg)
Now you can lift off the right mounting plate.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/042.jpg)
Take out the 'C' clip (ref #8816) securing the right bearing (ref #8940) and the bearing should just slip out.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/043.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/044.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/045.jpg)
Not surprisingly, the bearing really belongs in the knackery so a quick measure (5 x 13 x 4mm) and a new one is on order.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/046.jpg)
After a thorough clean-up the mounting plate gets a fresh coat of grease... and in this case, the cleaned and re-lubed bearing can go back in temporarily until the replacement arrives.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/047.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/048.jpg)
Put the right mounting plate aside and lets move on to the left side.
The 3 screws (ref #15033) securing the cross-member (ref #8829), line guide cross member (ref #15023) and real seat (ref #8934) can be undone and the parts put aside.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/050.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/051.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/053.jpg)
The worm shaft and line guide assembly will just slip out...
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/052.jpg)
And the spool (ref #970248) can be slipped (or when there's a bit of rust involved like here... manhandled) from the left side assembly. Don't lose the spool spring (ref #4111)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/054.jpg)
2 screws securing the left side plate (ref #15029) and mounting plate (ref #15015) can now be accessed. Back them out and the plates separate.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/055.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/056.jpg)
Lets go through the same process with the left side bearing and mounting plate (which in this case will also involve junking the bearing when the replacement arrives)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/057.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/058.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/059.jpg)
The left side plate is in much need of attention so remove the idler gear (ref #15010)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/060.jpg)
Now, slip out the centrifugal brake assebly... careful of the brake blocks on the pins on the underside.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/061.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/062.jpg)
To remove the ratchet assembly, first detach the ratchet springs (ref #9773) from the clicker button (ref #8900).
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/063.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/064.jpg)
Then the nylon clicker spring (ref #15014), the clicker (ref #8899) and the clicker button can be removed.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/065.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/066.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/067.jpg)
Clean up the inside of the left side plate and brush on a thin smear of fresh grease to protect everything.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/068.jpg)
Then clean up, re-grease and reassemble the ratchet.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/069.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/070.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/071.jpg)
Give the idler gear a coat of grease, add some oil to the mounting point and pop the screw back in.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/072.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/072a.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/073.jpg)
Then reattach the mounting plate and side plates...
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/074.jpg)
Time to give some attention to the poor, neglected levelwind assembly, starting by cleaning the gunk out of the line guide 'guide shaft' (ref #15023)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/076.jpg)
Take apart the line guide assembly beginning with unscrewing the pawl cover (ref #5177).
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/077.jpg)
Next, remove the pawl itself (ref #5176)... ummmmmm, they're usually supposed to be lubricated rather than packed with semi-solid gunk. ???
The worm shaft (ref #15934 in this model version) will then slip out of the worm shaft cover (ref #15932 in this model version).
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/078.jpg)
Give all the components a good clean with white spirit... pipe cleaners and Q Tips are a great accessory at this stage (that pipe cleaner started out white at the other end of the worm screw cover by the way).
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/079.jpg)
Then give all the components, including the worm screw a thin coat of oil. Add a drop of oil to the bushings at each end of the shaft and the pawl as you're reassembling the levelwind.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/080.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/081.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/082.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/083.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/084.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/085.jpg)
Reattach the line guide shaft adding a small dob of grease to the screw hole first, then slip the levelwind assembly back into place, making sure that the line guide is seated properly in the grooved guide shaft.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/086.jpg)
Now, reattach the remaining cross member and, after cleaning the spool shaft, replace the spool into the left side assembly.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/087.jpg)
Smear the mounting plate of the reel seat with a little grease and reattach it to the left side assembly
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/088.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/089.jpg)
Add a bead of grease to all the mounting screw holes and then reattach the right side mounting plate (you might notice in the photo that I've already reinstalled the small thrust washer (ref #9717).
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/090.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/091.jpg)
It's starting to look a lot better now...
Reassemble the main clutch components... the slider, clutch cam and pinion yoke.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/092.jpg)
Because I has some inkling as to the state the inside of this reel might be in, I'd pre-ordered a set of Carbontex drag washers... just as well.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/093.jpg)
Give them and the drive gear drag recess a coat of drag grease before installing the new washers.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/094.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/095.jpg)
The drive gear teeth and the anti reverse gear & dog can all get a coat of blue grease.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/096.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/097.jpg)
do you like the funky photo background :1punk: ... that's the screen saver on my computer that I keep on with the schematics handy while I rebuild reels.
The high speed drive gear with rejuvenated drag can now be reinstalled on the right mounting plate.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/098.jpg)
A bit of jiggling and manipulating of the clutch components is needed to allow you to slip the greased pinion gear back into place.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/099.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/100.jpg)
Reinstall the yoke spring and spring retainer
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/101.jpg)
Then grease the clutch slider springs for protection and reinstall them.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/102.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/103.jpg)
One of the Carbontex washers goes on next to separate the 2 drive gears, after a good coating of drag grease
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/104.jpg)
Then the smaller 'low speed' drive gear can be greased and reinstalled followed by installing the remaining drag washers... greased Carbontex of course.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/105.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/106.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/107.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/108.jpg)
Clean out the spacer washer/seal components... including the o-ring (ref #8918, #9736 & #8868), give them a light coating of grease (drag grease might be advisable to avoid cross contaminating), reassemble and install.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/109.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/110.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/111.jpg)
Apply a light protective smear of grease using an old paintbrush or toothbrush to the inside surface of the right side plate.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/112.jpg)
Then the side plate can be reinstalled and screwed back on... note that the seal frame has a small tab that needs to be aligned with the notch in the side plate.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/113.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/114.jpg)
Giving each a smear of grease, return the drag star and the bellevilles.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/115.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/116.jpg)
Remember me saying the handle of this reel needed attention... give the handle a coat of grease front and back where it is mounted and reinstall it. And in the case of this reel I installed a soft copper shim in the corroded locking screw hole.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/117.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/118.jpg)
Reattach the e-clip handle nut, locking collar and the locking screw
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/119.jpg)
And it's done (apart from having to dispose of the white spirit and river mud)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/120.jpg)
After all this, my mate's ABU 10000CL is like a different reel. When the new bearings arrive, I'll swap out the ones that are making the interesting gravelly noises and while it won't exactly look like it came out of the box, it should be back to performing like it.
Actually, this rebuild was a lot of fun. After also doing a 6500 and a 7000 straight afterwards, I'm wondering why I ever stopped using ABUs. These traditional reels may not be as flashy or have some of the gizmos of newer generation baitcasters in particular, but the engineering is simple and dependable. You have to spend a lot of money in other brands to get the same quality.
It's child's play stripping down one of these compared to the nightmarish complexity of the average mid-range spin reel these days.
Thanks once again to Alan and www.fishraider.com.au for allowing me to post this tutorial.
Cheers, BigT
Great Tutorial,, I have a couple of these reels I use for Heavy Flathead Catfishing..
I am hoping the members here, can help me out with some info..
I've been looking for a couple sets of the Chrome Plated sideplates for the Abu Garcia10000 2-speed reels
and, have not been able to come up with the Chrome sideplates ,, either the actual parts, or part numbers ..
Pure fishing hasn't been able to guide me in the right direction, as I don't have the part #'s..
so, I'm posting here for either the Chrome sideplates, or the part #'s for the left and right Chrome sideplates
or maybe another direction to pursue these items!!
Thanks,
Greg
Am waiting delivery of an Abu Ambassador 9000CL which "Is acting up and needs looked at!" This will be my first two speed repair and I was wondering if it is similar to the 10000CL for which Big T has made an excellent Tutorial.
does anyone have the spec of this ABU 10000CL ?
Schematics here,
http://schematics.planetseafishing.com/downloads/abu/multiplier/ambassadeur/10000-series/ambassadeur-10000cl(94-03).pdf
thk u life saver!
Great tutorial - I've stripped apart my 10000CL and the drags looked like they are compressed! :o
I have the following questions!! :-[
1. when reassembling low speed gear -what is the order of the Belleville washers? drag washer, ll) or ll(
2. the steel plates looked like it has corroded see picture, is it beyond salvaged?
3. the spacing shield o ring looked loose so it will be replaced - :-[ in which direction should the copper spacer be facing?
looking forward to your advice :) Thanks!!
Ed
*additional information: serial #-8602-1
* purchased circa 1989 - never serviced ::)
G'day Ed,
Good to see you're enjoying the tinkering!
I haven't done a 10000 in a while, but others will no doubt wade in if necessary...
Quote1. when reassembling low speed gear - what is the order of the Belleville washers? drag washer, ll) or ll(
ll)
Quote2. the steel plates looked like it has corroded see picture, is it beyond salvaged?
A good buff with some fine-grit wet and dry should sort those out.
If there's still any significant corrosion/damage after giving them a polish, consider replacing...
Quote3. the spacing shield o ring looked loose so it will be replaced - in which direction should the copper spacer be facing?
From memory, one side is keyed, while the other isn't. The keyed side should face the handle (minimising water ingress).
Hope that's of some assistance.
Any problems, let us know.
Good luck, Justin
hi Justin, thanks for your respond! they are only chromed and they are now pitted! see picture below, your thoughts? Any idea where I could order replacement parts?
cheers, Ed
G'day Ed,
PM me with the part numbers and I'll sort 'em - unless another member here has them to hand.
I'd still try to sand 'em back though.
Even if you polish through the chrome surface a little, the greased CF will minimise potential corrosion.
It's important to use a dead flat surface though, as high points and/or dips will compromise the drag efficiency.
Cheers, Justin
PS Abu parts often have to come from Oz, so it may take a few weeks.
;D Thanks Justin, I will try to repair as suggested. Thanks mate!
i come across this all the time. the pitting is not a problem. clean them up with the wire wheel off a bench grinder, then slap a coat of cal's grease on the bare metal. you will do fine.
Good monring! thanks for that Alan I'll do as suggested. ;D
not much choice anyway. like justin said, a clean flat surface is best, but it's such a hassle to get new parts. it won't be perfect like this, but it should be good enough.
I would appreciate a critiquing of the following process from the experts if they will indulge me...
I use a piece of 1000-1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper taped to piece of thick glass or granite to provide a smooth surface when refinishing flat surfaced parts. A piece of felt or thin leather contact glued to a piece of glass or granite can be coated with polishing paste to provide an even finish when polishing. The granite can be acquired free from a counter top maker. They often have pieces left over from cutting out sinks, stoves, and other objects.
I have occasionally soaked some brass and SS parts in Phosphoric acid if the corrosion is bad. I have done this with a few aluminum parts, but you must be careful and remove them quickly. Aluminum parts must be rinsed thoroughly and immediately because acid will eat aluminum. Never use anything stronger than phosphoric acid. Try diluting the acid 50%. I follow the acid bath with an ultrasonic cleaning in a Hornady Magnum Ultrasonic cleaner that I purchased for cleaning my rifle brass.
Hi
I have possession of a 10000 - Unsure of exact model yet but is not the level wind. It isn't mine but an acquaintance's that complained that it has weird drag behaviour.
I am going to disassemble and look at it for him and will reference the above teardown as a guide.
For those that have worked on this family of reels do you have any gotchas I should be aware of prior to the teardown commencing?
The weird drag behaviour is best described as the amount of drag doesn't equate to the star position as directly as I would assume is meant to
That is at full off position a reasonable amount of drag is exerted on the stack and when the star is locked down there is a small increase in drag but nowhere as much as I expect.
I assume that there is a flattened spring (wave or Bellevue washer) or the fibre washers are compressed.
It was serviced recently by a local shop but it is suspected that this was done less than diligently or effectively.
I am doing this as a favour to the guy who owns the reel and for a project for myself so there is a low level of expectation from both of us.
I am confident with the sl20sh and Avet I own but that is due to familiarity and the reels being reasonably simple mechanically
As this is a dual geared reel that experience may not be enough by itself - So if anyone here can flag what to look out for I would be appreciative.
Thanks
I did overhaul one of them and didn't find anything extraordinary.
QuoteIt was serviced recently by a local shop but it is suspected that this was done less than diligently or effectively.
Sounds plausible....they probably just wiped off all the tramp oil and grease from the old washers, and let it go at that.. after charging you premium price because the reel is big.
I had a quick look late last night
It is clean inside the right hand assembly with a generous covering of a whitish grease.
It doesn't look to be corroded or overly dirty.
The left hand assembly is also cleanish.
I notice that it does not freespool beyond a few spool turns. I will look at the bearings initially.
However, removing the spool adjustment knob on the left hand plate shows that the wee bit that sits between the end of the spool axle and the tension cap to be offset. It is a brass half ball and rubber component thing. I assume this should be square and true and not look offset? or does this self right when the spool tension cap is on?
To be clear, I meant they prob. cleaned everything, did a good service, but did not replace the drag washers.. just wiped those off, and put them back in. Or they overlooked something else A 10 will stop a bus. You did not indicate they gave you back drag washers, which is kind of a giveaway they did not change them, unless you do have them?
Quote from: Ken_D on May 13, 2014, 03:37:52 PM
To be clear, I meant they prob. cleaned everything, did a good service, but did not replace the drag washers.. just wiped those off, and put them back in. Or they overlooked something else A 10 will stop a bus. You did not indicate they gave you back drag washers, which is kind of a giveaway they did not change them, unless you do have them?
Hi. No prob's. I do not disagree.
Issues I have seen are as follows.
The reel does not free spool.
it doesn't have a measurable increase/decrease of drag with the star wound right down or right off.
It is not my reel. It is an acquaintances. I cannot comment on what he was given back as I did not ask.
Regarding the wee bit on the end of the spool axle that looks to be a tensioning component found under the left hand spool tension cap. Should this sit square prior to the cap going on or does it self adjust when the cap is on. The schematics I have seen are a bit lo res and I haven't had a good play with the reel yet. It was one thing I did notice as odd on my preliminary inspection.
I had to review my notes on 10's....I have seen/worked on... the grand total of.....2 since 1989 !!! The tensioning device is brass and rubber. Looks like a baby pill. Inside the cast cap is another plastic or rubber bit, that centers the pill in the boss. I applied a dab of grease inside the cap, placed the pill in the cupped part of the insert, and installed. Thereby centering the brass bit in the boss. Brass end to the spool, rubber or plastic end to the cap.
Quote from: Ken_D on May 14, 2014, 03:44:22 PM
I had to review my notes on 10's....I have seen/worked on... the grand total of.....2 since 1989 !!! The tensioning device is brass and rubber. Looks like a baby pill. Inside the cast cap is another plastic or rubber bit, that centers the pill in the boss. I applied a dab of grease inside the cap, placed the pill in the cupped part of the insert, and installed. Thereby centering the brass bit in the boss. Brass end to the spool, rubber or plastic end to the cap.
Had a quick look last night
That grey plastic bit looks to be off center
If you know of any high rez schematics I would be appreciative. The ones at Mikes are a bit low rez.
Alan has a schematic thread. Older reels are not easy. The various hosts usually have the very same drawing. But I'd try Planet Fishing, Nutter, and
Southwestern parts.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=4.0
One aspect not yet discussed RE the lack of drag: Is this reel using braided line? You can figure out the next phrase if it is.... and that phrase is: the entire inventory is slipping around the spool because of a faulty knot on the arbor. To test, tighten the star, pull line out slowly and watch. If the line is coming off, and the spool is stationary, 'nuff said.
Quote from: BigT on March 19, 2010, 12:34:02 PM
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/027.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/029.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%2010000CL/030.jpg)
Hi
Once the larger drive gear is removed I then cannot budge the drive shaft and get at the dog below it. I have soaked it in CRC and looked at the schematics I can find for this reel in case this model has a clip I cannot see.
It is the 10000C but year of manufacture is unknown. I am presuming mid 80's?
Anyway, It may be just be stuck. I have blasted it with cleaner and air and removed all the gunge but see no obvious clip securing it.
Thoughts?
Thanks to PHOTOBUCKET, things are really SCREWED UP here, without PICS !
Tight Lines !
Just the article I was looking for. Unfortunately; the photos don't display. I currently have 2 of the 10000CL's that I'm restoring and need some help / thoughts. Both have a "pressure washer" P/N 9728 that's part of the drag system. These seem to have a somewhat chromed finish on the surfaces that has began to bubble up, creating a friction / abrasion problem with one of the thinner drag washers. I don't know if the surfaces could be sanded down to a fine luster and survive rusting with a good application of grease. Thoughts? The part is NLA anywhere I've looked.
The other is the drive shaft. Similar issue; except it has a ratcheting system that prevents the main gear from reversing. The reliefs show a great deal of black oxidation that won't polish off. That drive shaft P/N is 8948, and also NLA. Any idea regarding suitable substitutes, or repairs?
Thanks!
Jim
I think you can lap the washers smooth and install a carbontex drag kit with drag grease, that will be butta smooth and not rust. It's what I do on brass washers that have gotten a nice patina from water intrusion. I'd polish anything else you can smooth, if not gleaming, maybe with 1500 wet / dry or polishing compound.
John
Hi Jim, I have the original article with the pictures in PDF form as I also have 2 Abu 10000 CL's. Give me your email and I can send it to you. Also thorhammer is right, that is the way to go.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpGNqBcVpt8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpGNqBcVpt8)
Very nice video. As much as I visit Japan and China; you'd think I could read a little Japanese, but no. Gorgeous reels. My hunch is that when I have them completely restored, they ought to winch out a Buick from the bottom of the ocean.
Crazy question, though. When I was cleaning the side plates last night, the decals (already pretty faded and dog eared) came off in the bath. Source of replacement without having to order new side plates?
Quote from: Jim Dempsey on September 26, 2017, 08:28:14 PM
Just the article I was looking for. Unfortunately; the photos don't display.
Jim
Jim,
Send me a PM . . . I will send you a Dropbox invitaton.
I have all 119 of the original photos stored, plus a PDF of the original article.
Tight Lines !
Dave
I've never seen decals available for any reel. People have played around with counterfeiting them and had varying degrees of success.
-steve
These wouldn't be easy to counterfeit, either. Bright gold with a black background? That would be a stretch. Sure don't want to have to pay $50.00 for new sides either... But; I want them to be original, and like new when finished. Sometimes the dragon wins.
I'm surprised that with near 40,000 views nobody has called out the fact that the gear sleeve c-clip is missing in this tutorial. I'm not surprised that I'm probably the only one who gives a flip. :D
Temporarily, all of these pics and a PDF of the Tutorial can be downloaded here . . . ENJOY !
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ajhg2badk1nwvwx/AABTZeN0EeYu8iv7pKoA6FkAa?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ajhg2badk1nwvwx/AABTZeN0EeYu8iv7pKoA6FkAa?dl=0)
I will leave the files there for a while, but not permanently.
Tight Lines !
Quote from: mo65 on May 05, 2020, 03:20:04 PM
I'm surprised that with near 40,000 views nobody has called out the fact that the gear sleeve c-clip is missing in this tutorial. I'm not surprised that I'm probably the only one who gives a flip. :D
YO . . . The C-Clip is MISSING !
LOL !
Good Catch !
Tight Lines !
Putting up with a little in/out lateral play on the handle may be less frustrating than the C-clip.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on May 11, 2020, 04:36:13 AM
Putting up with a little in/out lateral play on the handle may be less frustrating than the C-clip.
-steve
Steve,
I believe that "handle movement" is actually the entire Sleeve / Gear assembly moving around . . . Probably not too good the for Gears.
Tight Lines !
Quote from: ez2cdave on May 10, 2020, 10:37:19 PM
Temporarily, all of these pics and a PDF of the Tutorial can be downloaded here . . . ENJOY !
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ajhg2badk1nwvwx/AABTZeN0EeYu8iv7pKoA6FkAa?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ajhg2badk1nwvwx/AABTZeN0EeYu8iv7pKoA6FkAa?dl=0)
I will leave the files there for a while, but not permanently.
Tight Lines !
Damn It !!!!!!!!!!
Gone again
Quote from: Mic on January 06, 2021, 02:56:37 PM
Quote from: ez2cdave on May 10, 2020, 10:37:19 PM
Temporarily, all of these pics and a PDF of the Tutorial can be downloaded here . . . ENJOY !
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ajhg2badk1nwvwx/AABTZeN0EeYu8iv7pKoA6FkAa?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ajhg2badk1nwvwx/AABTZeN0EeYu8iv7pKoA6FkAa?dl=0)
I will leave the files there for a while, but not permanently.
Tight Lines !
Damn It !!!!!!!!!!
Gone again
Not really . . . It's BACK !
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ucw0oobfhgnx91g/AADIJw_wZeTqPTXlHNvvQwsHa?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ucw0oobfhgnx91g/AADIJw_wZeTqPTXlHNvvQwsHa?dl=0)Dave F.
Quote from: ez2cdave on January 13, 2021, 05:13:57 AM
Quote from: Mic on January 06, 2021, 02:56:37 PM
Quote from: ez2cdave on May 10, 2020, 10:37:19 PM
Temporarily, all of these pics and a PDF of the Tutorial can be downloaded here . . . ENJOY !
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ajhg2badk1nwvwx/AABTZeN0EeYu8iv7pKoA6FkAa?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ajhg2badk1nwvwx/AABTZeN0EeYu8iv7pKoA6FkAa?dl=0)
I will leave the files there for a while, but not permanently.
Tight Lines !
Damn It !!!!!!!!!!
Gone again
Not really . . . It's BACK !
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ucw0oobfhgnx91g/AADIJw_wZeTqPTXlHNvvQwsHa?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ucw0oobfhgnx91g/AADIJw_wZeTqPTXlHNvvQwsHa?dl=0)
Dave F.
Thanks Twice Dave !!!!!!!
I posted this in the other thread . . .
If ALAN can help me out, I believe that the entire original thread can be restored . . .
Until that time, this LINK will give everyone access to the ORIGINAL pictures, PLUS, a 33+ MB PDF file of the original thread, including photo's.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ucw0oobfhgnx91g/AADIJw_wZeTqPTXlHNvvQwsHa?dl=0
Tight Lines !
Is anyone looking for one of these? I have one that I'll be moving on to a good home.
My link is still good . . . All pics and a PDF of the entire tutorial !
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ucw0oobfhgnx91g/AADIJw_wZeTqPTXlHNvvQwsHa?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ucw0oobfhgnx91g/AADIJw_wZeTqPTXlHNvvQwsHa?dl=0)
If Alan can access that, he should be able to recreate the entire original tutorial, here on the forum !
Tight Lines !
Dave F.