On my last Shark Trip. John let me use one of his spider weights fishing with heavy current. They worked quite well, and I thought I would make a few of my own.
These cost about 10 dollars each if you purchase them with the shipping.
I made these 5 for 20 bucks. 15 ft of 8 gauge copper and a tub of hydraulic cement. I already had the pipe. They weight about 5 oz. I need to figure out how to make them heavier and still compact.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on July 27, 2014, 01:55:07 PM
I need to figure out how to make them heavier and still compact.
Lead instead of the concrete...? :)
~
A~
I'd rather not deal with the lead. Its messy and doesn't mix well with a few beers. ;)
I can envision bad things happening. :o
Lead is not that hard to deal with, just keep it away from water and do it in a well vented area.
I cast muzzle loader mini balls to downrigger balls.
Hi Shark Hunter,
Note your aversion to lead, however we use huge numbers of sinkers for surf fishing, with either fixed or releasable wires for anchorage. The beauty of lead is that apart from cast iron, you are unlikely to get a material up to those densities to get the sinkers down to a smaller volume.
Obviously you are not casting, so the aerodynamics of your sinkers are not an issue, just the need to anchor you larger baits – try larger diameter tube and the hydraulic concrete – then add the wires.
We are casting our baits and sinkers for our sharks, so need some form of aerodynamics, and are using sinkers between 6 and 8 ounces – it is then just a case of getting the right moulds. We use stainless steel wire for the anchorage wires, as they are less flexible than the ones you appear to be using - copper???
Hope that helps.
Cheers from sunny Africa
Jeri
Lee's right; lead isn't complicated to work with. I've used Hilts molds to cast tons of sinkers, which saves a LOT of money.
But outside for sure, with a fan blowing the fumes away. And NO cerveza until after you're done! :P
~A~
Quote from: Aiala on July 27, 2014, 02:26:02 PMAnd NO cerveza until after you're done! :P
~A~
Yup.
When casting large sinkers (24-48 oz.) and downrigger balls (8-15 pounds) I wear welding leathers, chaps, tall leather boots, welding gloves and goggles too. NO WATER AROUND MOLTEN LEAD.
I always preheat my lead molds. It makes sure there is no moisture in them and they fill out and make good weights sooner. Stand down wind or use a fan so you don't inhale the fumes. If your yakking a bait out you can use a brick too.
Those are some nice weights. I use the redneck version. Bent coat hangers attached to a heavy weight with electrical tape. Cost about $2 and takes 10 minutes to make.
Quote from: Keta on July 27, 2014, 02:34:36 PM
Quote from: Aiala on July 27, 2014, 02:26:02 PMAnd NO cerveza until after you're done! :P
~A~
Yup.
When casting large sinkers (24-48 oz.) and downrigger balls (8-15 pounds) I wear welding leathers, chaps, tall leather boots, welding gloves and goggles too. NO WATER AROUND MOLTEN LEAD.
When I was 17 I worked in a factory that rebuilt large dynamos. The motor shafts ran on Babbitt bearings which needed to be cast in the shop. It was on a hot summer day and the Babbitt worker had his shirt off. He was a very hairy guy and had a pot of molten Babbitt in front of him. Another worker came by with a piece of metal that he had just dipped in water to cool it off from welding or grinding. He walked past the molten pot shaking the water from the metal piece he was carrying. The water hit the molten Babbitt and it exploded and sent molten metal everywhere in the shop. Both guys were burned but not badly but I could not help laughing seeing dingle berries of hardened Babbitt hanging from the hair on the workers chest. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Dominick
What's "Babbitt"? (The only Babbitt I know of is the Sinclair Lewis novel... ??? )
~A~
Babbitt is harder and lighter than lead.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_Babbitt (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_Babbitt)
Quote from: Aiala on July 27, 2014, 10:07:42 PM
What's "Babbitt"? (The only Babbitt I know of is the Sinclair Lewis novel... ??? )
~A~
That's the woman that cut her husband's thing off
Quote from: bluefish69 on July 27, 2014, 10:52:18 PM
Quote from: Aiala on July 27, 2014, 10:07:42 PM
What's "Babbitt"? (The only Babbitt I know of is the Sinclair Lewis novel... ??? )
~A~
That's the woman that cut her husband's thing off...
Wrong vowel (but right thing, LOL) ;D
~
A~
I try to stay clear of Bobbitts.
A little follow-up history for Lorena Bobbitt...she moved to Russia and changed her name to Ivana Cutchurcokov. Dominick
:D
Since you already have the copper pipe just plug one end and fill with lead bird shot and heat with a propane torch. No mess.
Now that's a good idea Dwight! ;)
I thought of using bb's. The problem is the wires are sticking out of both ends before you put the cement in. Just some duct tape around the swivel end keeps the concrete from coming out. Maybe a little concrete on one end, then the shot and the torch, I think that's a good plan. ;D
Any thoughts about mixing lead balls into the hydraulic cement?
Quote from: smnaguwa on July 29, 2014, 08:29:20 PM
Any thoughts about mixing lead balls into the hydraulic cement?
I love it. Another way to skin the cat. Dominick
I thought about mixing it with bb's. The 8 gauge wire takes up too much room in the pipe for bigger balls. I think I am going to go with Dwight's suggested route. The lead shot and torch.
You could also try a marginally larger diameter copper pipe, which would increase total volume, and consequently, weight. :)
~A~
Quote from: Shark Hunter on July 29, 2014, 10:23:08 PM
I thought about mixing it with bb's. The 8 gauge wire takes up too much room in the pipe for bigger balls. I think I am going to go with Dwight's suggested route. The lead shot and torch.
Wow! Mr. Macho... :D Dominick
Daron, You saw what I do. I cut pvc put in the wires and stick them in dry sand. Then pour in the lead. They may not be pretty but if you lose one you are not out much. Bob
I still have those Bob, and plan on using them. just experimenting.
you can buy weights with 1/2-3/4" holes in them, get the weights, put your wire in desired length of pipe, slide weights on outside of pipe, smash the ends of the pipe sticking out of the string of weights, with the ends mashed shut, the weights can't get off, the wire cant get out.
or use PVC slipcaps, or 6 oz Styrofoam cups with your cement.
js
I finally got around to messing with these spider weights a bit more. I don't think the hydraulic cement is the way to go. It gets brittle and starts to break down after a while. The one on the Left is John's. Big Shark Tackle sells them, and they are supposed to weigh a pound. It actually only weighs 8 ounces. I filled one of mine with lead and it now weighs 6 ounces, the one on the right still has the cement and only weighs 4 ounces. I think that will do. I used split shot and pellets. The wires are much sturdier now.
I used to make mine by drilling out an eight ounce egg sinker, then looping coathanger wire, with four legs. Easily cast and held bottom well.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on September 28, 2014, 04:32:40 PM
I finally got around to messing with these spider weights a bit more.
I don't think the hydraulic cement is the way to go. It gets brittle and starts to break down after a while.
The one on the Left is John's.
Big Shark Tackle sells them, and they are supposed to weigh a pound. It actually only weighs 8 ounces.
I filled one of mine with lead and it now weighs 6 ounces, the one on the right still has the cement and only weighs 4 ounces.
I think that will do. I used split shot and pellets. The wires are much sturdier now.
Daron, is that the smaller of the two sizes I had?
The smaller one they sell, they list as 7oz.
http://bigsharktackle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=38&products_id=99
I couldn't remember exactly what the weights on them were.
IIRC, I said, 8oz-10oz for those & I thought the big ones were close to 1#.
They list the shipping weight as "Shipping Weight: 0.1lbs" which I take as a typo.
http://bigsharktackle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=38&products_id=100
Anyways, those look really good, you're definitely on the right track. ;)
Quote from: floating doc on September 28, 2014, 08:28:23 PM
I used to make mine by drilling out an eight ounce egg sinker, then looping coathanger wire, with four legs. Easily cast and held bottom well.
Cheap & easy Sputniks... I like it.
Check out the weights for Ulua Slide Bait Rigs. We use normal bank sinkers with heavy gauge wire. Here is a photo with the wires straight.
What weights are you looking for. In Hawaii, we have them from 2 oz to probably 16 oz. I would contact Brian's Fishing Supply [808-596-8344] or Ewa Beach Buy and Sell [808-689-6368]. You could always do a phone order and charge it. They can sent it flat rate to save on shipping cost.
I would stay away from copper. Copper will absolutely kill a lively reef and marine life. Not sure how, but it does.
Oh, good point on the effect of copper on the environment.
Nice looking weights brian
I make my own weights You have to be carefull with the lead
very toxic to your brain
copper is worth a fortune these days I would take it to the scrappy and swap for lead or Tungsten
we make a large version of Darons weight using Steel pipe and deformed concrete reinforcing bar
Love the DIY
(http://alantani.com/gallery/11/386_17_10_14_7_10_43.png)
Just saw this on Facebook if you can no make your own.
we use these long boom "breakaway" sinkers for sliding big baits. They work a charm and I make my own ones
(http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w491/capefish_photo/SINK-GRAPBOOM_zps42c2d2cc.jpg) (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/capefish_photo/media/SINK-GRAPBOOM_zps42c2d2cc.jpg.html)
Hi All,
We have been going through all the variables every year for the past couple of years, as cheap lead gets shorter in supply. Variations with concrete would seem to have the most likelihood of success, but they have to be so large by volume in comparison, that they become unrealistic.
We always end up biting the bullet, and paying more for the genuine 'lead' article.
Just about any decent mould can be used, they are readily available from folks like 'Mold-It' in a huge variety of sizes, and if you need added wires – then just drill the aluminium mould to suit.
We have found that a long wire/attachment in the front of the sinker, hold the sinker lower to the sea bed, and allow the anchorage wires better grip.
A note about copper, it is a totally toxic material to all marine and freshwater environments – it used to be the main component for anti-fouling boats, but was banned because of the toxicity. Pretty much every harbour in the world had totally marine deserts on the sea bed through precipitation from the boat hulls. It's the copper content in brass that makes them such good fixings for marine use, they never suffer marine corrosion.
On a closing note, surprised at the prices offered for 8oz sinkers on the page shown, we are selling them in the shop at under a half of that price, but then shipping from Namibia would be a pain!!!
Cheers from sunny Africa
Jeri
Jeri
Sinkers here in N.Y. can be bought for .12 an oz. for bank sinkers from 2-24oz. I buy in 24# bags & I just received 100# at my door. I have a very unhappy Postman now. I have his cell # if needed.
Mike
Messing around with these spider weights some more. John, That last one you gave me in Navarre weighed in at 6 oz. I just don't like the whole concrete idea seeing the deterioration on yours, the wires are going to come loose eventually. I made two more. The 4 inch one I was using was about 5 oz. I made a 6" and a 10" out of 1/2" pipe and they weighed in at 8 oz and 15 oz filling them with lead. I also put some longer wires on them and they should hold in the toughest current. I need to pick up some more 8 gauge wire and some 3/4" copper pipe. A 6" piece should be heavy enough for what we do, and a lot more solid.
I made these out of the 4" ones that had the concrete in them.
I wish I could post you weights, I have stacks from 6-9 Oz lying in the garage with spring steel break away legs so they are easy to reel in once you have yanked them out the sand and they don't get caught in weed and rocks once you pull them out
Hey Daron, we use similar stuff for trolley rigging king mackerel off piers. For wires, I scavenge an old bicycle wheel and cut out the spokes. They're stiff but will bend out if hung. I know guys that use nails but they ain't bending out. I pour my lead but if you'd rather not you can pack egg sinkers or split shot in your tube then seal them in with the concrete or JB. That will give you an extra couple ounces without increasing size, i.e. sail area of the sinker.
J
My neighbor gave me a coffee can full of 3/8 oz egg sinkers. I just melt them into the pipe. I seal the bottom with aluminum foil. It is solid. These weights are tough and will be re used again and again. the wires are solid all the way through. I'm going to make a few more for me and John and that will be all we need. The copper wires will last a long time. This is the same type of wire used for grounding your home. You just straighten them out when your done and put them in the tackle bag.
i like the ground wire idea for portability. the spokes dont bend that easiliy. are you slinging these on the ugly stick?
No, These are for the long drops in the kayak. The Ugly could do it. I was using an 8 oz Pyramid a few weeks ago to get it to hold.
By the way, copper left in our oceans' reefs can kill the reef. It is worse than lead left in our reefs due. Copper prevents growth of organisms in our oceans. That is why bottom paint has copper in it.
I have yet to lose one of these Bry. Where I fish, I won't be around any reefs. If I am, I won't use them. The Gulf front from Pensacola to Destin is pretty much clear of reefs on the ocean side. Its just sand and shells. No Rocks or reefs unless you go way out. Farther out than I will be paddling to drop my bait. They have made several man made ones on the sound side. They are hard to miss with the big pillars around them. this is an old picture. I quit smoking 18 months ago! ;D
Quote from: Bryan Young on May 27, 2015, 03:20:15 PM
By the way, copper left in our oceans' reefs can kill the reef. It is worse than lead left in our reefs due. Copper prevents growth of organisms in our oceans. That is why bottom paint has copper in it.
That is good to know.. some years ago I was using spark plugs instead of 1oz lead for fishing off the rocks on light tackle of course because of the cheaper reason, but one of my friends is "sea biologist" he studied oceanology well he told me that spark plugs have some metals and elements that are 5x worse than lead and he invite me to stop using them, he recomemded me using small cuts of REBAR rods they are pure Fe iron and dont affect the reefs or sea creatures at all.
I have used rebar as well. Sometimes you can get scraps for free.
I just picked up another variety of spiders similar to the ones Bryan posted.
These have 3/32 stainless steel legs in lead.
I picked up some 12 & 16oz to try out first week of June on a sharking trip.
Here are the 16oz
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s190/ChileRelleno/IMG_20150527_191435516_zps7iki7dcj.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/ChileRelleno/media/IMG_20150527_191435516_zps7iki7dcj.jpg.html)