Got a buddy wants to refurbish and mag his pop's Squidder. Who is best to take this on? I'm traveling for most of next six weeks.
John
Check out Sal's post where he magged a Surfmaster 100 I believe, using ready to install parts from Scott's.
Thanks! It occurred to me later that if he has his dad's reel, it probably has chrome spool, which it does. I told him to try aluminum first but I like the kit idea.
You are welcome.
You know I cast my 140 for years with a chrome spool, ignorance is bliss. ;D
I love my Squidders! There isn't much that can be done to one that I haven't done a dozen times. I personally like the hard drive mags over the little rare earth mags but you need to find small ones off of slow RPM hard drives. If you choose to epoxy washers to the inside of the bake-a-lite tail plate....rough it up with sandpaper/dremel cause they like to fall off. Seems bake-a-lite is oily so use lock-tite epoxy or the best you can find. Good luck.
Noted, and thanks!
You'll need to get an aluminum spool for it . . .
I have my squidder magged on the right side. Is there enough room between bridge and spool to mag. left side? Would it be beneficial?
Quote from: fishhawk on May 26, 2016, 06:55:35 PM
I have my squidder magged on the right side. Is there enough room between bridge and spool to mag. left side? Would it be beneficial?
I think you may have that "backwards" . . .
The Left Side is the Clicker-Side and the Right Side is the Handle-Side, unless you're using a Left-Handed Squidder ?
I've never seen a Squidder magged on the Handle-Side and I don't think there is enough room.
Tight Lines !
lol, yea your right, I had it backwards. But am still wondering if you could mag the bridge side or if there are other penns (500 down) that would have more room on the right side. I saw where someone had magged an ambassadeur on the right side and that got me to thinking.....
Quote from: fishhawk on May 26, 2016, 08:47:17 PM
lol, yea your right, I had it backwards. But am still wondering if you could mag the bridge side or if there are other penns (500 down) that would have more room on the right side. I saw where someone had magged an ambassadeur on the right side and that got me to thinking.....
I took a look inside one of my Squidders last night . . . It appears that the obstacle to Handle-Side magging is that the Bridge Assembly projects outward and is actually "inside" the rim of the spool, when the reel is assembled. I did not measure anything, but "by eyeball" it looked to be very close, without sufficient clearance.
Tight Lines !
Thanx Dave!
Couple of strange questions...
- I heard that the Penn aluminum spools respond better to magging than the Newell ones. Any experience with that?
- Any experience magging with a bakelite spool... wait, I'm not a physics flunkie... I saw a posting where someone magging a jigmaster added steel washers to the side of an aluminum spool to increase the braking power against the spool. Also, I heard of a guy on another forum epoxing a copper ring to the side of a plastic spool for magging. What is the point, you might ask? I have lots of plastic spools, and aluminum ones can be pricey, and I'm a cheapskate ;D and like finding new ways ::)
But maybe I need to stop asking questions and start experimenting!
JOhn,
this is how I magged my Baja Special and my trini16, I have also magged a daiwa saltist 20h (no link)
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=15353.0 (PC HD magnet)
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=15118.0 (last pictures of the 1st post)
I havent had time but I will also mag the squidder 146 soon, same way but with small rare magnets, they work really good and best of them is that you can fine-tune the mag-force adding one or taking one out
for better effect of the rare magnets on the spool, always install them with different poles on top, example:
glue one with the + pole on the bottom so - pole is facing to the top, next magnet needs to be glue with the - pole on the bottome so the + pole is facing to the top and so on.
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/1%20Reel%20repair/P1060415%20ss_zpsnjhklfhd.jpg)
PS: if you dont want to epoxi the sideplates I recommend Shoegoo, its really sticky and strong, and easy to take off
I did it to my 146 using this tutorial.
http://www.pierandsurf.com/fishing-forum/showthread.php?56847-How-to-mag-a-jigmaster
I ended up removing them because I found it inhibited free spool too much for live bait fishing which is what I use it for. If you're jig fishing, it's the way to go.
Quote from: SantaBarbarian on December 16, 2016, 11:41:07 PM
I ended up removing them because I found it inhibited free spool too much for live bait fishing which is what I use it for. If you're jig fishing, it's the way to go.
Thanks for the input, fellas. I'm curious, what is it about live bait fishing that demands so much free spool? The fish is so fast that it pulls tight against the braking? Sounds exciting.
It's all about successfully casting the bait into the zone.
There are more myths and half truths surrounding the reel magging subject than one can shake a stick at. For a more complete understanding of it all just google "Lenz's Law". 8)
Quote from: Decker on December 16, 2016, 07:41:25 PM
Couple of strange questions...
- I heard that the Penn aluminum spools respond better to magging than the Newell ones. Any experience with that?
- Any experience magging with a bakelite spool... wait, I'm not a physics flunkie... I saw a posting where someone magging a jigmaster added steel washers to the side of an aluminum spool to increase the braking power against the spool. Also, I heard of a guy on another forum epoxing a copper ring to the side of a plastic spool for magging. What is the point, you might ask? I have lots of plastic spools, and aluminum ones can be pricey, and I'm a cheapskate ;D and like finding new ways ::)
But maybe I need to stop asking questions and start experimenting!
A dear, departed friend of mine, who went by the online name "Grampa Ol'Spookasan" has great information on magging non-metal spools.
Thanks to the "Wayback Machine" . . .
https://web.archive.org/web/20051023090420/http://www.100megspop3.com/oldvalkyry/latestmag.html (https://web.archive.org/web/20051023090420/http://www.100megspop3.com/oldvalkyry/latestmag.html)
https://web.archive.org/web/20050911002914/http://www.100megspop3.com/oldvalkyry/pennmag.html (https://web.archive.org/web/20050911002914/http://www.100megspop3.com/oldvalkyry/pennmag.html)Tight Lines !
Probably a little late for John's buddy's squidder but I measured the gap between a squidder bridge and a penn aluminium spool when I was looking at installing dog posts recently. I came up with 2.6mm gap when the spool is centred in a Cortez Classic 146. The neodymium magnets are available in 1.0, 1.5, & 2 mm thickness (and thicker) which means there is room for thin rare earth magnets. You could use thin 0.5 mm magnetic washers epoxied to the bridge with 1 or 1.5 mm thick magnets mounted on them. I had a few 7 x 2mm thick N50 magnets handy so I put one directly on the back of the gear sleeve post to try it.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_07_07_17_8_41_02.jpeg)
The spool clears the magnet while it is centered, although it starts to touch/rub with approx 1/3 of a turn of the bearing cup towards the right. I haven't magged a reel before, but if having the magnet close to the spool is better, this is pretty close.
Mike
Mike - The closer a magnet is the more breaking is generated. The grade of the magnet also has an effect. Typically rare earth magnets (neodymium) come in 3 grades N38, N42 and N50 - the higher the number the better the performance. You will also find that thicker magnets generate more power.
Quote from: mhc on February 12, 2017, 09:47:54 AM
Probably a little late for John's buddy's squidder but I measured the gap between a squidder bridge and a penn aluminium spool when I was looking at installing dog posts recently. I came up with 2.6mm gap when the spool is centred in a Cortez Classic 146. The neodymium magnets are available in 1.0, 1.5, & 2 mm thickness (and thicker) which means there is room for thin rare earth magnets. You could use thin 0.5 mm magnetic washers epoxied to the bridge with 1 or 1.5 mm thick magnets mounted on them. I had a few 7 x 2mm thick N50 magnets handy so I put one directly on the back of the gear sleeve post to try it.
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg549/mhc14/AT%20forum/DSCF2896_zpsvooiozg9.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/mhc14/media/AT%20forum/DSCF2896_zpsvooiozg9.jpg.html)
The spool clears the magnet while it is centered, although it starts to touch/rub with approx 1/3 of a turn of the bearing cup towards the right. I haven't magged a reel before, but if having the magnet close to the spool is better, this is pretty close.
Mike
In your photo, what is the purpose the the C-Clip on that reel ?
Tight Lines !
C-clip here....
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=20257.0
Quote from: Rothmar2 on February 12, 2017, 09:52:28 PM
C-clip here....
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=20257.0
Wow, very cool . . . Amazing work !
Tight Lines !
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on February 12, 2017, 10:41:30 AM
Mike - The closer a magnet is the more breaking is generated. The grade of the magnet also has an effect. Typically rare earth magnets (neodymium) come in 3 grades N38, N42 and N50 - the higher the number the better the performance. You will also find that thicker magnets generate more power.
Thanks Tiddlerbasher, that explains why it makes sense to install the magnets on the tail plate where there is more room for adjustment. You can stack thinner magnets or use different thicknesses to alter the distance from the spool as well as add or remove magnets. Putting a single magnet on the gear sleeve post is quick and easy but limited with adjustment.
Looks like Rothmar2 has got your question covered Dave.
Mike
Hey folks I forgot this was my thread... buddy never moved on this, but some great inputs here. I love my Squidders and Tom's kits are outstanding. No surprise there. Mike and Chris doing clean work down there.
I gotta go see Dave's arsenal. I think he is about 40 mins from me.
Mike deserves all the credit with the extra squidder dog, he has come up with and executed the concept so far.
I hope to help refine it a little soon, as I have been gifted a squidder kit from Tom H recently, and will get a thread going on that as soon as I get time to make a start on it. (Many thanks Tom!) I'm getting close to finishing another one of Mikes ideas, that he has asked me to help him with, hope to show that to you within the next couple of weeks.
Will definately be referencing this thread to mag my squidder when the time comes.