My E-bayed Silver Beach arrived today. Not a spot of corrosion. Just a few marks on the top where it looks to have been dragged on a boat trip.
While looking for a suitable Jigmaster handle side-plate donor (to build a Jigmaster 99) I came across a black Jigmaster side-plate. I checked some part numbers and found a number of them to be the same. Since I'm going to upgrade it anyway, why not.
This Silver Beach has enough marks to keep it from the display cabinet but lovely enough to be proud of. I'll see how many parts can be transferred and maybe shoot some pics.
Add this I must. I was thinking of adapting a Tiburon frame to this reel. After examining this thing in depth, I find it unnecessary. This reel is substantial. The stand is a lot larger than the Jigmaster The stoutness of this thing can stand on it's own.
Cool beans Steve....can you post some pictures of your build? Bill
Thanks, Bill, I'll post pictures when I start the build.
I was hoping that I could use the 99's bridge, as it appears to be stainless. When I tried to mount it on the Jigmaster side-plate, however, I found that the Jigmaster screw-holes would not line up. The Jigmaster uses two locating pins to the align bridge to the side-plate. I thought about grinding these off but after close inspection I found the screw-holes to be just a bit different. I'll just take the hit and order a new one.
I'll have to do a little research to determine if ordering the parts is cost effective. Maybe an E-bayed, cheap, Jigmaster would be a better deal.
I'll let you know.
The older maroon Jiggy's are typically cheaper and usually have steel main gears as opposed to brass, and frequently chromed bridges / jacks / yokes also.
There is, also, the option of all new stainless parts (with double dog bridge) from Black Pearl Fishing, on E-bay.
That will mean some serious coin, but may be worth it as this reel may be one of my most used.
Serious thought required here.
I have one of those BP units, courtesy of Sal, and it is indeed a great upgrade. But get steel gear and probably sleeve.
Quote from: Stevedel on October 04, 2017, 07:00:30 PM
There is, also, the option of all new stainless parts (with double dog bridge) from Black Pearl Fishing, on E-bay.
If you want to buy from Black Pearl deal with him direct at his online store. He is a member here and it will be a little cheaper. Look for his store in his profile here. Rudy
Steve,
Being as you are keeping this reel retro I would suggest going full-retro and keep your Silver Beach sideplate and gears in tact for a low-gear option and get a Jigmaster bridge for your JM sideplate for high-speed. This is what the old-timers did and they would swap sideplates and/or spools to match conditions. For the price of a double-dog bridge and gears you could instead purchase Bryan's drag upgrades in both drive-trains then upgrade when and if parts fail such as the gear sleeves. Where are you located? As many of us have upgraded to DD bridges we should have plenty of Jiggy bridges laying around.
Mike
Thanks, guys.
Looks like a search for another Jigmaster is on. At least, I don't have to limit it to black only. There are far more maroon available.
This time I don't need to worry about corrosion.
I'll leave the Silver Beach side-plate all original.
The E-bayed Jigmaster arrived today.
It has a chipped handle-sideplate and is somewhat corroded. The spool (chrome plated brass) and the internals are in very good condition. The only malleable internal parts are the springs,pinion, main gear and sleeve post. The bridge is silver so I assume that it is stainless. (Did Penn chrome plate the brass bridge?)
Before I tear it apart, I need to figure out which camera and settings give the best image for this website's requirements.
To be continued...
Bridge is plated.
Here is an image of the donor Jigmaster (on the left) and the Silver Beach (on the right). All of the bits and pieces are from the Jigmaster. Let's see how this comes out.
The spool in the back is the chromed brass Jigmaster. In front is the Silver Beach. The Silver Beach is a mite narrower.
The plan is to assemble the Silver Beach, using the new, black Jigmaster side-plate. If everything works (of course it will) then I will order a stainless sleeve, new drag discs and maybe some other goodies.
Here are three images of a functioning Silver Beach 99 Jigmaster. I think I'll call her "Millie".
Everything works smoothly, the spool has no gaps and the drag works. The only problem is that the handle side-plate is very tight and cannot be rotated enough for the release screw to engage.
A little tender love and some hand fitting should cure that.
Oh, yes, a new handle is in the works.
OK Steve you have the foundation, now it's time to start building. Rudy
I'm really not too sure how much farther I want to go with the "99" project, other than a stainless sleeve.
How about we start with a fresh canvas. A 500SL with a Tiburon/Black Pearl package.
(Mostly, I want to see how a higher resolution image comes out.)
Good call. the S's got some bad rep because they are Delrin rather bakelite and chip more easily . I personally like the S, whether stock or to build out, because they have solid cross bars, chromed bridges, yokes, jacks and occasionally eccentric, and steel gears. Just change to carbontex and a better handle and you are already ahead of the game. all the better with red anodized spool.
Should start a new thread but since you're here...
The 500S is bright red and should be better suited to a Tiburon red anodized frame than a maroon 500 would. I think that a red spool might be overkill. The black spool and handle knob provides the right balance.
Now, we can think about Black Pearl innards. That pretty much is dependent on the cash available at the time of order.
The Silver Beach "500" is going on the shelf until I determine the best way to properly fit the side-plate. It needs to be sanded but where and how much. I'm thinking the side-plate. The original Silver Beach fits well and it would be easier to find another Jigmaster than a Silver Beach handle side, inside ring. I may just tighten the side-plate, hand tight and locate, drill and tap a new hole. After all, I'm not gonna sell this thing, I expect to use it.
On the 99 you just have to elongate the slotted hole a bit so the plate can turn a little further.
Actually, Rudy, I can barely rotate the side-plate at all. That sucker is tight. I'm going to have to get out the Dremel.
I have a different Jigmaster, an older maroon one, that fits like a glove. Thumb-screw and all.
I don't quite get why the black one is a problem. I can barely force it into the right side ring without turning it. I think, in this instance, a fine drum sanding roll is warranted.
I'm certain that, in most instances and my reading of this website bares this out, elongating the slots would be the cure.
I always seem to find the extremes. I bought this as a bare side-plate only, no other parts attached.
Thanks again, Rudy, but this one is not going to cooperate.
could well be the bakelite is swollen. happens.
It could also just be period mismatch...lots of these parts had slight variations over the years. These quick take apart sides had two different styles...one has just little dimples to slide into place and another has a post in place of that dimple. Same with your thumb screw alignment...Jiggys used a different handle side ring than the Silverbeach. 8)
Here's what I recommend: Clean the mating surfaces real good with alcohol or something so there no grease or oil residue. Then using a Sharpie pen marks all the mating areas real good and black. Then attempt to fit them together. Don't force them? The black ink will bub off where there is too much contact. Remove a little material in these areas using your favorite abrasive. I like to use Cratex rubber abrasive bits and a Dremel but you can use pin files or sandpaper if that's what you have. Keep repeating this process until you're happy with the fit. Go slow...remember it's always easier to remove more material than it is to put some back on. Once you're really happy with the fit you can remove the Sharpie ink with alcohol. The I like to use a felt Dremel buffing bit and some metal polish to make it really smooth. Be sure to grease these surfaces when you re-assemble.
Good luck with it!
Mike
Thanks, guys.
Looks like a trip to Harbor Freight.
PacRat, thanks for the cratex suggestion. I was in fear that, even a fine sanding drum would be too aggressive.
Say, what would a regular, black, Senator look like if a person removed all of the chrome and just left highly polished brass?
I wonder why I have so many unfinished projects?
Quote from: Stevedel on October 11, 2017, 09:18:38 PM
Say, what would a regular, black, Senator look like if a person removed all of the chrome and just left highly polished brass?
I'd say you would have metal that would attract corrosion quicker. Clear lacquer wears off to quickly & grease will darken it over time. You could always have it cleared with powder coat but it seems you are having a problem raising funds for any of your proposed projects. Time to pick one idea and follow it through to completion.
An object like a full polished brass Senator would be an artistic expression not a tool for sport.
Ah, Rudy, if you only knew.
There is a polished brass Penn on here somewhere. I saw it quite a while back but I don't remember who posted it. It may not have survived the photobucket debacle. Maybe someone else will know where to find it.
Quote from: PacRat on October 12, 2017, 03:19:05 AM
There is a polished brass Penn on here somewhere.
Is this the one? http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=21302.0
Looks like another future project to me.
Thanks Mo, of course a guy could never do that to a "Silver Beach".