I ordered a SL20SH frame kit form SoCal Fishing and Hunting and am very pleased with what I received. Before I placed my order through their web site I had a few questions and Mike at SCFH responded very quickly to the e-mails I sent.
Here is a look at the new frame compared with the reel. As you can see the new frame is smaller in size than the stock.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks189_zpsccbcc4b8.jpg)
Lets take a look at what came in the kit. I got the frame, pinion bearing, clutch lever. allen head screws and allen wrenches. The screws at the bottom of the picture are all extras and are replacements for the 3 different type of screws used, also the frame came lightly coated in a thin oil which I assume is Break Free CLP that they talk about on their site. I think the extra screws and oil are nice touches.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks213_zps820ebaf6.jpg)
Remove left side plate and take out spacer, bearing A and bearing washer A.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks212_zps1a4f8a37.jpg)
Install spacer, bearing A and bearing washer into new side plate. Grease new side plate and set aside.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks211_zpse963feeb.jpg)
Remove right side plate and take off clutch lever. Use clutch lever spring, screw, washer and clutch lever cam to install new clutch lever onto new side plate. Grease and set aside.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks208_zpsc8120c90.jpg)
Next comes the spool. The click gear will fit into the new frame with out any problem.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks210_zps56cf2cba.jpg)
I chose to remove them though. Remove c-clip, click gear and click spring.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks209_zps82bb99b1.jpg)
Remove drive shaft retainer, drive shaft, bearing and drive shaft washer from old side plate. Install shaft retainer, drive shaft, bearing and drive shaft washer into new side plate using screws provided. Oil and install new pinion bearing into frame. Make sure to grease all of the new screws during the installation as they come dry.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks206_zps0f952a2f.jpg)
While I'm in the reel I'm going to swap out the stock drags with greased Carbontex.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks207_zps6012577a.jpg)
Bend down the dog spring a little to get a better hold in the pocket of the new side plate.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks205_zpsacdf7cf7.jpg)
Reassemble right side.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks204_zps2ee46bcc.jpg)
Don't forget to remove the O-ring for the spool tension cap and install it onto the new side plate.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks203_zps9d2d85ca.jpg)
Install right side plate, spool and then left side plate and your done. Below the reel are the extra screws, saved if ever needed.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks202_zpse566a0eb.jpg)
I added a new Tiburon handle today to finish off this reel. The handle comes with a screw that I thought would either work with the Daiwa handle nutcap or hold the handle nut in place without the nutcap. Neither was the case, once the handle nut is installed the screw hole is to far away to stop the nut from turning when the screw is installed. With the nutcap installed the screw hole does not line up without some modification to the nutcap. The nutcap hole must be moved closer to the handle nut by about a 1/32" also the area where the screwhead stops on the nutcap must be plunged deeper do to the shorter screw from Tiburon. Lastly the through hole in the nutcap must be made larger to fit the new wider screw.
A little roto tool work and all is well.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks214_zpsbe3d1b92.jpg)
I like what you did SoCal. It loos like a smaller and stronger reel for sure. I like the way it took out the old gold trim.
How the free spool? What was the cost of the frame kit?? How long did it take for the conversion???
Alan made a sticky of a post I did earlier on this board called "Slosh Frames" which has a link to SoCal-Fishing-Hunting. Though I use SoCal as part of my web handle, I have no relationship to the people that make the frames other than buying one from them.
The cost is $50 for the kit plus shipping and tax for me because I'm in California. Freespool is good with 25 sesonds on the cleaned and TSI lubed bearings. I have not tested the max drag pressure yet because I bought the reel used and it has 12lb test spooled on it. Once I spectra back the reel and add a 30lb topshot I'll post what kind of drag pressure I'm getting. This reel will be used for a 30lb test live bait setup.
The conversion took about 30 minutes with cleaning/lubing the brearings and taking pictures.
The overall size of the reel is very close to a Avet SX. Many people have been asking Avet to make star drag reels and with this conversion think I'm as close to a SX in size as I can get without the Avet name on it.
Edit: Just to make sure everyone knows this frame has no clicker or reel clamp.
Very nice SoCal. I have an x-20shv that I converted last season. It was an easy conversion and the frame seemed to have very tight tolerances. You will be pleased with your reel. Any ideas for the best solution for a clamp?
Tiburon and Daiwa both make clamps that may work but I havn't tried either.
I have a Tib clamp in the mail from Mike's. I intend to see if it will work on the factory frame before I buy one of these. I talked to SoCal a few months ago and he said he'd have frames in April, glad he got them done.
Ron
Very Nice..!!
SoCal,
Did you find out how well the spool holds up with braid yet?
Leo
Noyb, when Reelspeed was still on this board, he had 2 converted SHA's (20 and 30) that were for sale. It seems like the 30 was the only one that had an aftermarket clamp. I don't recall why it wouldn't fit the narrow.
I don't know either. Diawa says their clamp will fit the Luna 300, which is WAY smaller than a SLH-20.
Ron
Not sure when I'll spectra back the reel but when I do hopefully the guys at one of the shops I go to will let me try the clamps for the fit. I like the Tib clamps for the black color and costing less than the Daiwa doesn't hurt either ;)
Ron what size Tiburon clamp did you order?
I actually don't remember but it is the one Moke's said would fit the ProGear Pacifica 2000 I got from Bryan. I am hoping it will fit the SLH because I also recently picked up a backbone clamp. For those of you who don't know I recomend checking those out if you are missing a clamp. Stupid cheap and very well made. If the Tib clamp fits the Diawa then I'll get another Backbone for the Pacifica. The backbone on my Newelled BayMaster is awesome.
Ron
Noyb72,
PLEASE take some photos of the clamp when it arrives, love to see how it fits in the SL20SH Frame,
I purchased the SLX20SHA from Reelspeed (via Bryan), and will want to get my hands on the same clamp if it works well for you. Thanks.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7779.0
Wayne
If you search in ebay tiburon reel clamp, this is something that could be used.
Ok, spooled up the reel today and got 250 yards of 50lb Izorline spectra on the spool which fills it up full.
Testing the drags I'm getting 16lbs of usable drag. I do get more but I say usable drag because after 16lbs the drag ramps up very fast with minimal movement of the star.
While at the tackle shop I tried 3 clamp assemblies. First the Daiwa and Tiburon TCU-M are to wide to fit the SL20SH frame. The way the frame was designed where the gearbox and bottom of the frame come together there is a 45 degree section connecting where the two meet. This 45 degree area is where the issue is, if it was a strait 90 degrees either clamp would fit. Lastly I tried Tiburon's new clamp for the Lexa reels, sorry I don't have the model number. The width is perfect and slides in missing the 45 degree area but sadly the the length is about 1/8th inch longer than SCFH's reel foot bar. This clamp would work when tightened onto a rod with a reel seat for added security but could allow the reel to move around on a deckhand style rod.
I'll be mounting this reel on a rod with a reel seat but didn't like that the clamp was not a perfect fit so I didn't buy one. I will keep an eye out for a better solution.
Cool,
I'm guessing mine from Mike's isn't coming...it hasn't got here and I haven't heard from them. I have just bought a backbone fore my Newelled 180 and will buy one for my Pacifica and my SLH. I am really happy with the backbone and you can't beat the price. I'll spool my 20SHV with 30 PP and 30 mono on top and be happy with the stock frame.
Thanks SoCal, between the frame and the Tib clamp I'm saving $75.00!!
Ron
I wouldn't pass up the frame because I couldn't find a clamp assembly since the reel is not going on a deckhand style rod. The clamp is there mainly to protect against the failure of the reels foot and on a metal frame reel with the foot machined on and not screwed or riveted on that failure is very unlikely to happen. Now if I couldn't get a clamp on a graphite frame to help releave some of the load on the reel foot I'd be a somewhat more worried.
Bump for the handle update.
SoCal,
Please show pictures of the mod to the Tiburon handle quote below:
I added a new Tiburon handle today to finish off this reel. The handle comes with a screw that I thought would either work with the Daiwa handle nutcap or hold the handle nut in place without the nutcap. Neither was the case, once the handle nut is installed the screw hole is to far away to stop the nut from turning when the screw is installed. With the nutcap installed the screw hole does not line up without some modification to the nutcap. The nutcap hole must be moved closer to the handle nut by about a 1/32" also the area where the screwhead stops on the nutcap must be plunged deeper do to the shorter screw from Tiburon. Lastly the through hole in the nutcap must be made larger to fit the new wider screw.
A little roto tool work and all is well.
Thanx,
Leo
These are before I cleaned the grease off.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks215_zps659d6421.jpg)
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks217_zps6fb39a26.jpg)
Thanx SoCal.
You know, you might try the handle nut and stamped locking collar from a Torium (threads/shaft the same). Dont go with Daiwa hardware, its just too high the Shimano parts are considerably cheaper! Ive was upgrading most of my handles and found the shaft pattern and threads on my Daiwa's the same as my Shimano's FYI. Thanx for the pictures SoCal.
Leo
Thanks for the heads up but on my 2 Shimano reels, a TLD15 which is retired or used as a loner and my TLD 30II which I have switched as many parts as I can, is the only place I'd use Shimano parts.
Which Shimano handles are compatible with the SL's. Mine are all corroded where the nut holds the handle on the driveshaft.
Also where'd you buy that Tib handle from?
Not sure about the Shimano handles that fit the SL/SH's but on my TLD 15 I did switch to a Torium handle, I like the rubber knob better of the Torium. Did this swap about 10 years ago though.
I'm in southern California and many tackle shops have them here. I got mine at Charkbait, but The Longfin, Sav-On, Fishermans Access all have them and I think Melton's has them as well.
I wish they made this reel in left hand!!
Ok a little of a update on how the reel works. I fished Mexican waters from about 85 to 120 miles south of Point Loma a couple weeks ago right before the BFT closure. The boat only caught 30 BFT which 2 went close to 70lbs, not mine. Most of the BFT were in the 30-40lb class and I caught 2 around 35lbs on the converted reel. I switched the spectra before the trip to 40lb so I could get 300 yards on the reel, I really like this yardage when BFT are around because sometimes larger models are below the smaller schoolie fish. Both of my fish on this reel were on plastic swimbaits with leadheads. I used a Calstar BWC 970 rod and a short topper of around 6-7 feet of fluoro over the spectra. Both fish came right to the boat in good time even with the 6:1 gearing this reel has. All in all I'm very happy with the conversion. I did manage one more BFT tuna around 30lbs on 25lb test and a 8' rod on another setup using live bait and one other small, around 12lb YFT on the troll.
FYI, I just ordered an SL20 kit with provisions for a clamp AND it has a CLICKER!
They are considerably more expensive then the previous frames though.
I love my old SL. I've had it for at least 20 years and have caught all types of local and offshore fish with it. I could have just bought a new reel but figured I owed it to this one to give it new life. It's always been my 20lb go to....I think now it'll be 40 or 50lb braid to FC.
Oh man that kit is sweeeeeeeeet
Hey guys,
I had to sign up as I stumbled upon this thread. I really like this frame but as someone mentioned, the cost has gone up. Does anyone have any older ones they could part with as I don't need a clicker and this reel will be used on a rod with a reel seat. Also, did the overall weight of the reel increase/decrease?
Thanks,
Dan
Quote from: Heisenberg on May 05, 2015, 02:52:00 AM
Hey guys,
I had to sign up as I stumbled upon this thread. I really like this frame but as someone mentioned, the cost has gone up. Does anyone have any older ones they could part with as I don't need a clicker and this reel will be used on a rod with a reel seat. Also, did the overall weight of the reel increase/decrease?
Thanks,
Dan
Dan answered your PM
Got it, thanks again.