Hello all,
I am in the middle of cleaning my newly bought 550. I have removed the nut and washer but the rotor is not coming out. Does anyone has tips or tricks how to do this safely? I am trying not to put a lot of pressure and break things. I think it must be rusted. I can see some rust in the pinion gear.
Thanks
Chris
There May be a Clip with two holes in it you have to remove but I think that is for the bearing You might spray some penetrate around it then tap on on it lightly with a wooden hammer handle.
Remove everything possible before attempting this rotor removal, Chris —
We don't want any parts to be tweaked or ruined.
Spray a little penetrating oil around the top outer part of the worm pinion — let it penetrate downwards for 15 minutes, or so.
The worm pinion is a very heavy duty steel — the rotor is aluminum. The rotor is not threaded on — it is held in place by a drive plate, lock washer, and a hex nut. If the pinion wasn't fused to the rotor — the rotor would just slip off.
This is not serious rust between the worm pinion and rotor — but rather just a tacked together couple of pieces that just need the surface tension broken. The worm may be rusted, the main bearing, the snap ring, spring washer, and bearing shield — but these can be cleaned up or replaced very easily.
The rust is due to either salt water and no servicing — or just no servicing — water caused the rust.
When everything is removed — including the hex nut, and spring washer, and maybe the drive plate (this isn't a deal breaker, the worm will come out with the drive plate in place) — next do this...
Put a big, fat rag under the body and rotor — as you hold in your hand, just the rotor — as securely as possible — then, using a nylon faced hammer — just drive the worm pinion downward — thus breaking the fuse-hold.
If you don't have a nylon faced hammer like this — a chunk of hardwood can be used as a drive buffer between the top of the worm-pinion and your hammer.
This has ALWAYS worked for me with never an issue —
After you get the rotor off — you can then remove the other parts mentioned — drive the bearing off of the worm-pinion — clean everything up as good as you can. Test the bearing, replace if necessary.
This will work — no worries...
If any little parts are needed to replace rusted ones — I should have those for you.
The 550 is a large powerhouse. Very capable reel for large fish.
Best,
Fred
Awesome explanation Fred.
You are a blessing to so many. 👍
Thank you very much Fred for confirming that the rotor is not threaded or somehow attached to something. I did not think it was (drive plate, lock washer, and a hex nut are off), but started to doubt myself that maybe I missed a step or something. I have it soaking in PB Blaster now. It was getting late, and need to work on dinner. I was kinda getting annoyed anyway lol so I better stop before I do something dumb and break something.
Thank you
Chris
Let us know how you do, Chris —
Oftentimes, I get tired of working on a reel (and almost everything else in my life is more important than reels these days) — just have a good dinner, a movie with the wife, head to bed — early the next morning it all comes so much easier.
Balance & patience.
Sounds like you have it under control.
Best, Fred
For tough bearing/worm pinion extractions — this has always worked pretty well for me.
Best, Fred
Me, too. Same concept with a little different setup. I usually do it so the body ends up in my lap, on purpose. :)
Just want to give a quick update. My son and I been fishing with this reel, paired with a 9 ft rod and 30 lbs braid. It works great, I can cast very far with 2 oz weight. Enough to put the bait in the deeper part of the lake where the fish are. Our largest so far is 3-4 lbs carp but hoping that we will catch larger ones.