I'm a bit curious as to why Shakespeare never seems to get much mention here.
I have several of their Ambidex 2400 series reels from the '70s and to my eye, they seem to be pretty decent reels.
Not top of the line, but not junk either. The little 2400 seems to draw some interest on Ebay from time to time.
I believe that particular set of reels, the 2400, 2410, 2430, and 2450, were made by Omori from Japan, which from my limited research had a decent reputation.
Anybody have experience with vintage Shakespeares, particularly the series I mention?
Am I missing something? I'm certainly not anywhere the expert some of you fellows are.
There were some great spinning reels built by Shakespeare before the Japan reels. The Shakespeare Sea Wonders were made for saltwater fishing.
Many came factory with a manual bail system.
I had a collection of them but sold them all.
Good reels FB3 --
As a rule, any of the metal aluminum spinners from the golden age of spinners -- manufactured by good companies like Shakespeare, Daiwa, Penn, DAM Quick, Ryobi, Zebco, ABU Cardinal, and others...are good quality reels.
Characteristics to look for are metal body, good chrome, simple action, crisp bail snap, solid AR clicker, good strong crank handle, decent drag for the day -- and a main bearing under the rotating head.
The Shakes also had good paint.
Best,
Fred
Late reply
Shakespeare made some excellent spinners in the 70's and early 80's
The 2400 series were amazing. I owned and still have a 2410, my father had the big 2450 and my brother in law had the 2430. All were excellent.
My reel could be spooled up tomorrow and used easily.
They had smooth drags and a bail roller that actually rolled. The 2410 was about a 2500 size reel but I fished it with 3 Kg mono and caught a lot of mackerel on it.
Other similar reels were the Sigma. My fishing mate had one and it was also a great reel.
Shakespeare lost the plot when they went to rear drags. I stopped buying them and went to the SS series Penn's
I have a few Shakespeare light spinning reels that I thought I would post some pics of in case others were interested in looking into them.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065603_zpsvgn6wcng.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065655_zps1zc4rgpu.jpg)
2400 made in Japan
Nice reel. Lots of modern features (2 ball bearings, skirted spool, and a bail that can be easily closed manually), aluminum body and good paint. Drawback is a poorly balanced rotor. This one may be my next rotor balancing candidate.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065848_zpsohrgjoz5.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065716_zps3lg7mqmb.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170425_215247_zpsdvekwf3d.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170425_215050_zps6c7yuovm.jpg)
2200 (not Sigma) made in Japan
These reels are a sleeper and often overlooked and underappreciated. This reel is pretty smooth cranking, you can feel a little bit of vibration from gear meshing that could possibly be eliminated with some strategic shimming. There is very little friction when cranking, it feels like a good quality 3 ball bearing reel but there is just one (pinion bearing). Good looking little reel. I checked the rotor balance on this one and it is very well balanced without any modifications.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065751_zpsvlsb9qtr.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065810_zpsmvewh1yd.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170425_221600_zpsdcc0dwpm.jpg)
2052 made in USA
These are a real beauty. This one I have polished, they usually come with maroon colored paint. These used a worm gear drive so they should be a work horse. This one has a lot of steel parts so keep them away from saltwater.
Poorly balanced rotor, but once you balance the rotor they are silky smooth with zero vibration from the gears (one of the benefits of a worm gear drive). There is more friction when cranking than the previously listed reels so the handle doesn't spin quite as easily but the smooth cranking makes up for it. Polishing out the main drive gear shaft and oilite bushing may free it up a bit but I don't think I will bother with it. It isn't tight by any means. It may also be due to the fact that a worm gear drive isn't as efficient as the other gear setups...but again the gears are smooth as silk and it is a more robust gearing system due to the fact that there is more contact area of the teeth.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065732_zpsz2e35pri.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065825_zpshijupsqw.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170425_220308_zpsstpr7cbp.jpg)
Thanks!
Those old Shakes, Sigmas, Zebco OF spinners, and Daiwas from the mid 60's through early 90's -- if made of metal, and having no more than 1 to 3 bearings -- are quality reels.
Sleepers -- most folks pass them by because they are "old school"...
However, that school will still be in session long after the new plastic reels have been tossed in the trash.
Cheaply obtained and very good...
Thanks for sharing some of your techniques and findings.
Best,
Fred
No problem, and I agree 100%. I really love some of the old Daiwa reels. Their C and BG series get a lot of attention and hold a good resell value but for my personal taste the X and D series is the real bargain that is out there. They can be had cheap and can be modified to 3 bearing reels (like the BG) by replacing the drive gear bushings with ball bearings. I love the internal bail trip and the easy conversion to silent anti-reverse on the 1000x as opposed to the external bail trip and being stuck with a clicker without engineering your own silent anti-reverse system on the C series (some of the 1000x reels came with it from the factory, the parts are still available last time I checked). The 1000x is a great little spinner. I will do a modification/upgrade post about that particular reel at some point in the future. It is one of my favorites.
I have quite a few of the old MIJ reels from these manufacturers. If you're gonna chunk a bait on the bottom for a decent fish, hard to beat. Also would include the old mint green Heddon's in this group.
I think I still have a bin of the old Heddon spinner bodies and rotors -- still new and in oil paper.
Never used more than 1 or 2 over the years.
Best,
Fred
Where were my Shakespeare 2062 and 2052 made? I still use them, the 2062 for Sac river stripers and the 2052 for trout. The one thing I don't like is the 2052 plastic spool. I posted elsewhere on the Reel Rebuild Tutorial that my 2062 drag is jerky when loose but is smooth when tight. Can I fix it? It happened when I put in CF drag with Cal's grease. Thanks for any info.
AND Zebco, believe it or not....my first saltwater spinner given by my late father was a gold bodied 6040 I believe; it got run over by a fishing buddy and sat in a drawer for 20 years until I found AT and bought new shaft and spool. My man Fred finished it off with new Fred handle and some other bits, along with a couple of DAM's and a 712 for me. I have some of these Shakespeares somewhere.....and I have a Sigma with box that i think I used about twice....
Quote from: smnaguwa on April 26, 2017, 03:20:16 PM
Where were my Shakespeare 2062 and 2052 made? I still use them, the 2062 for Sac river stripers and the 2052 for trout. The one thing I don't like is the 2052 plastic spool. I posted elsewhere on the Reel Rebuild Tutorial that my 2062 drag is jerky when loose but is smooth when tight. Can I fix it? It happened when I put in CF drag with Cal's grease. Thanks for any info.
They were made in the USA. These had leather drag washers, they can be dry and stiff. A little light oil (just enough to darken it and soften it a bit) will probably help you out. CF drag washers will help you out. I cut mine from sheet I ordered from eBay.
All this Heddon talk reminded me I have a nice little Japanese made Heddon 290 skirted spool spinner I need to take another look at. Nice little reel but the drag knob tightens as line is pulled out against the drag tension. I need to see what is going on there.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170426_110119_zpsjj3byryy.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170426_110133_zpsgkmd5u5r.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170426_110151_zps8qqs0gpw.jpg)
Nice Heddon, Kevin --
And John is right about the Zebco's -- they are a smooth running and quality spinner.
Any of these metal guys are basically rebuildable, strong, simple, and capable.
Some more than others -- but they are all very decent reels.
I have a few of the gold 6000 series Zebcos, in various sizes -- and they are a pleasure to fish with. Solid metal bail snap, skirted spool, spool shaft additionally supported by body about mid-frame to keep pinion aligned.
Here is a NOS Shakes Sea-Wonder, and a JC Higgins badged Sea-Wonder. The "FB" indicates it was manufactured in 1959 -- it has never had line on it, or been mounted on a rod. Plus a few others.
These will do a great job. However, for the best strength, longevity, and a near "0" failure rate -- always look for a spinner made of aluminum, steel worm drive pinion supported front and rear with a bearing and a frame bushing, brass or steel main, A/R mechanism at drive train, minimum of plastic, 1 to 3 oversize bearings (most manufacturers place copious amounts of bearings in a reel to impress the buyer -- but primarily because the plastic or graphite frames need additional bearings for support on weaker frames -- and the feel of smoothness.
These would include Penn, Cardinal, DAM Quick, Shakespeare, Alcedo, some Mitchell's, and a few others.
Old spinners from the 50's through the early 90's -- can be very enjoyable to work on, use, and collect.
John -- sent out your Mitchell special forked wrench yesterday -- should get it tomorrow.
Best,
Fred
OK...you fellers reminded me I have a Heddon I've never posted pics of here. I might as well bust it out here...as I don't see a Heddon category. Most of these old spinning reels never raised much interest in the past, but all that may change...especially at the rate folks are chopping and drilling old Penn Spinfishers...gonna run out of those some day. 8)
QuoteWhere were my Shakespeare 2062 and 2052 made?
Kalamazoo, MI unless it was the last version with the one piece fold down handle. Many of the later, '69/'70 & after, after the Shakespeare/Pflueger merger, were made in Fayetteville, AR. The Pflueger Supremes, 550, 551 & 600 are the exact same reel as the Shakespeare 2052, 2062 & 2080 two piece handle Kalamazoo 1st versions, just matte gray instead of maroon.
QuoteIt may also be due to the fact that a worm gear drive isn't as efficient as the other gear setups...
I'm a little confused by that statement. Lack of effort during use is not necessarily the sole indicator of efficiency? Longevity, material quality, sustainability and wear/maintenance are also important attributes when considering efficiency.
QuoteI have a Heddon I've never posted pics of here. I might as well bust it out here...as I don't see a Heddon category.
Heddon was one of the early major US tackle manufacturers to outsource their reel manufacturing to Japan. That happened in the mid '60s after Daisy Mfg bought Heddon in 1959. Most of those reels were made by Olympic/Roddy.
QuoteI'm a little confused by that statement. Lack of effort during use is not necessarily the sole indicator of efficiency? Longevity, material quality, sustainability and wear/maintenance are also important attributes when considering efficiency.
I meant purely from a mechanical advantage standpoint. In every other way, worm drives best the other gear types in spinning reels IMO.
Like Kevin Sez --
These little reels like the Daiwas can be upgraded pretty easily.
Main difference outside of the gold vs. silver color, is that the golds have (2) main gear bearings instead of nylon bushings.
I just switch out the (2) nylon bushings for ball bearings -- it is just a simple drop in deal -- takes just a few minutes.
These little reels are strong.
Best,
Fred
Those Daiwa's are really nice. The 500C usually fetches a high price on the auction site. I have one but I like the slightly longer spools on the 1000 series Daiwa reels for slightly better casting distance. I have a 500C myself, how does the 70x and the minispin compare in size and line capacity to the 500c?
Fred, here is another tiny workhorse...the Shimano MLX100
I have 2 of them. I paid less than $10 each shipped to my door ;D
Another Japanese made aluminum bodied reel.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/Sizecompbyquarter_zpsdrpbcnmr.jpg)
Using 4 lb. Trilene XT, the Mini-Spin is 110 yards, the 70X is 100, the 500C is 85.
The 1000C's that I have are 200 yards of 4 lb..
I just use these for fishing the Back-Country lakes up here in the Sierras.
But occasionally when fishing Edison, Courtright, Bridgeport, or Twin Lakes from the boat -- I'll always have one rigged and ready with a Panther Martin, Thomas Bouyant, Rooster Tail, or fly and bubble.
Then if I notice some likely area or fish feeding -- just flip it into action.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: The Fishing Hobby on April 26, 2017, 10:35:45 PM
Fred, here is another tiny workhorse...the Shimano MLX100
I have 2 of them. I paid less than $10 each shipped to my door ;D
Another Japanese made aluminum bodied reel.
I haven't had a chance to use my little MLX Quickfire 100 yet, Kevin.
Just came in an old wooden crate of fly reels and rods that I bought. It was so dirty, it looked grey.
Cleaned off the reel and did a complete service -- it appeared that it was only used once or twice -- likely because the fellow was a fly fisherman and not a spinning guy. Bought it from his son.
Sure works well, and the balance is superb on a ultralite Shimano S156UL2B -- 5 1/2' rod.
Really like the reverse stem similar to a Mitchell 510.
Best,
Fred
Can't stump you on a reel ;D
Fred:
The first reel I bought with my own money and used for years was a Shakespeare 2200 series 025 that I mounted on my Fenwick 4 piece back packing rod. I literally caught 100's of trout on that outfit spooled with 6 lb mono. Somehow over the years, the rod is still with me, but the reel is gone. Would you by chance have enough parts to build one? If not, do you have parts for the reel? I guess I could find one on _bay and take my chances. If I went that route it would need a good cleaning and new bail spring. This is a picture of a trout I caught on Klamath Lake in Southern Oregon in 1982 with the outfit listed above. (http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/photoHumboldt/IMG_5961_zpscbwkw4w0.jpg) (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/photoHumboldt/media/IMG_5961_zpscbwkw4w0.jpg.html)
Let me know!
Andy
Not near the shop right now, Andy --
But tomorrow, I will see what I might have that you could mount on that pack Fenwick.
Best,
Fred
Hi Andy --
Found a nearly new 2201 025 size Sigma -- front drag.
Looks like me or someone else robbed the handle and bail many years ago when it was new.
So it has been in a storage bag for a couple of decades -- until I pulled it out this morning. Am installing a new bail, already installed a new crank.
Also found a pair of 030 Sigma Supra Pros with rear drag.
All appear new or near new.
Best,
Fred
Fred has more parts than the free world. And the unfree world. And any other planet with water.
Hi Fred: I have a Shimano MLZ40 which was a very smooth reel in it's time. I am confused about the drag. I don't see a conventional drag stack. Is the drag knob the drag? If so, how should I service it? Thanks. I also have a Daiwa 8100 that I splurged on while in college. It is a smooth all metal ultralite reel.
That old retro Shimano from the 80's is a good reel.
There are only two drag components on it -- the disc under the drag knob, and a base disc under the spool.
These discs are somewhat specific to this long discontinued reel due to their shape. So likely new discs could be fashioned from a sheet of CF -- then lightly greased with Cal's.
It will take some patience, and careful measuring -- but worth the effort.
Do not know if these discs are still available from Shimano (kind of doubt it, but who knows?), or someone else -- they might be, or just make a set.
Call to Shimano might be a first step before going to any major trouble. They may have some (buy a couple of sets) -- or have a substitute upgrade or fix.
Show us some pics -- I haven't worked on one of these for years.
Best,
Fred
There are some really interesting reels described & depicted. That Shakespeare 2200 is the older brother of a 2200 II I just finished cleaning up; MIJ, almost all metal; I took some pics & made some notes as I went thru it & maybe will make it up into a tutorial (when I figure out how to do that!).
The MLX Shimanos; got an MLX 300 w/ the Quickfire system that I played with a little a couple months ago; will have to dig my notes out on it & maybe post a pic. Big brother of the MLX 100.
As others have stated, Heddon is an old-time name, maybe better known for their lures and rods vs. their reels. Here's a 222 I cleaned & lubed; virtually all metal, except for the drag knob & finger paddle on the handle. Drag is a little strange; located in the spool and consists of a retainer, metal keyed washer and then 2 what appear to be cork disks, the lower of which rides in the bottom of the spool. No metal disk between the 2 cork ones; drag didn't have much adjustment range, so I tried inserting another keyed washer between the 2 cork ones; it's a little better, but now trying to figure out if it ought to run dry, or oiled, or greased, or.... Color scheme definitely old school.
Take a peek at this Berkley 426 as well. Also all metal for the most part, except for finger pad & drag knob. Black metallic paint. This 'un also has drag in the spool--a keyed washer and a disk about 1/8 " thick that appears to be made of some sort of fiber material; not sure if this is run dry or greased either. Another old time name.
Hard to find much history on either of these. Both are stamped on the foot that they were assembled in US from parts made in Japan.
QuoteHard to find much history on either of these. Both are stamped on the foot that they were assembled in US from parts made in Japan.
From over at the Any Idea? thread (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=21631.msg235067#msg235067) ....> "Most Roddy spinners were made by Olympic or Daiwa, as were many of the Daisy-Heddons. There are a lot of similarities between some of the Daisy-Heddons & Roddys if one looks closely, and both claimed to be assembled in the USA. The Rodac I posted has a bent leg at the foot connection, as do many of the Daisy-Heddons, but the reel in question has a straight leg like a lot of Roddys. The Heddon Spin Matics and Roddy Gyros are basically the same reel, and the Daisy-Heddon 230 and Roddy 820A & 830 have the same body style with a main gear hump."
I would surmise that Olympic had some involvement in Berkley reels, also, given their many similarities to some of the Heddon models. Heddon reels were made by Olympic. The Heddon 222 was made in the mid '60s, as was the Berkley 426.
On the Shimano MLZs (foakes; smnaguwa), here's a pic of the spool end of a MLZ 20, as well as the drag disk off that spool end and the drag disk off the drag knob. The drag parts on my MLX 300 are similar, but larger in size. The 300 has a black body; the 20 is silver. I've only had the 20 a few weeks and have never serviced or used it (yet), but the drag disks were both oily when I 1st looked at them. Ditto the disks on the 300 the 1st time I peeked at those.
The disks off the drag knobs seem to be some sort of molded plastic. The disks off the spool end are a thin material, with 3 ears; textured; maybe plastic or...? Anyone know what material they are? Should they be oiled for use or...?
When I said "spool end" I should have said "rotor end."
Quote from: happyhooker on May 23, 2017, 09:19:55 PM
On the Shimano MLZs (foakes; smnaguwa), here's a pic of the spool end of a MLZ 20, as well as the drag disk off that spool end and the drag disk off the drag knob. The drag parts on my MLX 300 are similar, but larger in size. The 300 has a black body; the 20 is silver. I've only had the 20 a few weeks and have never serviced or used it (yet), but the drag disks were both oily when I 1st looked at them. Ditto the disks on the 300 the 1st time I peeked at those.
The disks off the drag knobs seem to be some sort of molded plastic. The disks off the spool end are a thin material, with 3 ears; textured; maybe plastic or...? Anyone know what material they are? Should they be oiled for use or...?
I have two MLX10's which use the same sort of drag washers. I believe the disk under the knob is nylon which has self lubricating properties and doesn't require anything added. The disk under the spool seems to be some sort of synthetic fiber which I used just enough suberlube grease to dampen the surface on. Drag works smooth for me this way.
Well, as luck would have it, I just happened to give the drag on the Little Shimano MLX10 one heck of a workout today and it did its job perfectly. We were staying at a place on a lake for the holiday weekend and the kids wanted to do some bream fishing off the dock. Sounded like fun to me, so I grabbed my smallest ultralight setup (MLX10 on an old Quantum Micro rod) and we caught a lot of bream on worms and then I hooked up with this guy and the fight was on. I had to lean over the dock to grab him because my 4lb line would have probably broken if I had tried to lift him out of the water. Always a nice suprise to hook into a good cat while panfishing. Took a while but it was worth the work and a lot of fun.
I wear a size 14 shoe for reference. My daughter put her hand down for one of the pics.
Well I have been saying MLX10, it is a MLX100. Tiny little rascal.
Thanks, TFH, for the drag info. Noting for further use. I bet you had a blast w/ that UL setup and the cat. I have a Shimano AXUL-S that is the smallest serious spinning reel I've ever seen; I'll have to see how it compares size-wise to the MLX 100--maybe a younger brother; the MLX must be metal-bodied & if I recall, the AXUL-S is plastic.
Happy Holiday!!
That was a lot of fun. I looked up the AXUL-S on eBay and ran across an old listing that was selling an AXUL-S with an MLZ10 which is the same reel as the MLX100 but a different color. The MLZ and MLX are both aluminum bodied reels. Looks like the AXUL-S is definitely the younger brother of the other 2. Almost identical.
Interesting old thread to resurrect 5 months later.
I've been seeing these Shakespeare Ambidex pop up on ebay from time to time. Cool looking attractive reels, does anybody own one of these? Some are baby blue, others gold, but I particulary like this gold and burgundy color. Just wondering, I never remember seeing any of these, at least here in the Southeastern United States. Made in Japan, were they even sold here? They appear to have metal bodies, no plastic or graphite.
Quote from: festus on April 25, 2018, 10:18:16 PM
Interesting old thread to resurrect 5 months later.
I've been seeing these Shakespeare Ambidex pop up on ebay from time to time. Cool looking attractive reels, does anybody own one of these? Some are baby blue, others gold, but I particulary like this gold and burgundy color. Just wondering, I never remember seeing any of these, at least here in the Southeastern United States. Made in Japan, were they even sold here? They appear to have metal bodies, no plastic or graphite.
I have a similar reel (Shakespeare 2400) that is in one of the first posts in this thread. It is baby blue. Good quality reel!
I went back to the first of this thread and found your's. Yes, I like them. Still don't ever remember seeing one around here, apparently they weren't sold much in the East Tennessee area. some friends owned a sporting goods store in the 1960s through about 1995 and I was in there 3-4 times a week and never recall seeing them. They had the biggest selection around.
I like those you posted a picture of. Nice color scheme. I picked mine up on eBay but I have since seen them locally (Arkansas) in some flea markets.
They're from the mid '70s & somewhat sought after, especially the 2499 UL. Never had one in my hand, though, since I don't collect or use many Japanese made reels.
I concur--nice looking reels--& also good to hear they sound like good quality too.
Frank
Quote from: The Fishing Hobby on April 25, 2018, 11:27:24 PM
I like those you posted a picture of. Nice color scheme. I picked mine up on eBay but I have since seen them locally (Arkansas) in some flea markets.
;D I think that's why I like it so well, the colors. Very popular color combo over in the town I grew up in, maroon and gold are the school colors. ;)
Quote from: The Fishing Hobby on April 26, 2017, 01:49:33 PM
I have a few Shakespeare light spinning reels that I thought I would post some pics of in case others were interested in looking into them.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065603_zpsvgn6wcng.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065655_zps1zc4rgpu.jpg)
2400 made in Japan
Nice reel. Lots of modern features (2 ball bearings, skirted spool, and a bail that can be easily closed manually), aluminum body and good paint. Drawback is a poorly balanced rotor. This one may be my next rotor balancing candidate.
Just found a 2400 and only thing needs attention is a missing handgrip. This one has the letters DC after 2400 on the side plate.
Do you know what that stands for?
I could not find a schematic for it, only the 2401? It seems like a very well made reel to me.
Basto
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065848_zpsohrgjoz5.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065716_zps3lg7mqmb.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170425_215247_zpsdvekwf3d.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170425_215050_zps6c7yuovm.jpg)
2200 (not Sigma) made in Japan
These reels are a sleeper and often overlooked and underappreciated. This reel is pretty smooth cranking, you can feel a little bit of vibration from gear meshing that could possibly be eliminated with some strategic shimming. There is very little friction when cranking, it feels like a good quality 3 ball bearing reel but there is just one (pinion bearing). Good looking little reel. I checked the rotor balance on this one and it is very well balanced without any modifications.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065751_zpsvlsb9qtr.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065810_zpsmvewh1yd.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170425_221600_zpsdcc0dwpm.jpg)
2052 made in USA
These are a real beauty. This one I have polished, they usually come with maroon colored paint. These used a worm gear drive so they should be a work horse. This one has a lot of steel parts so keep them away from saltwater.
Poorly balanced rotor, but once you balance the rotor they are silky smooth with zero vibration from the gears (one of the benefits of a worm gear drive). There is more friction when cranking than the previously listed reels so the handle doesn't spin quite as easily but the smooth cranking makes up for it. Polishing out the main drive gear shaft and oilite bushing may free it up a bit but I don't think I will bother with it. It isn't tight by any means. It may also be due to the fact that a worm gear drive isn't as efficient as the other gear setups...but again the gears are smooth as silk and it is a more robust gearing system due to the fact that there is more contact area of the teeth.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065732_zpsz2e35pri.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170426_065825_zpshijupsqw.jpg)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj570/TheFishingHobby/IMG_20170425_220308_zpsstpr7cbp.jpg)
I'm not sure what the DC stands for. They are well made, you will enjoy it!
DC is the Shakespeare dating code for start of production of this model reel — 1978.
Best,
Fred
Thanks Fred
Greg