Using all the AT resources plus eBay, I've pieced together a 500 that I'm diggin.
Started with a 500s with the factory red spool off EBay
Picked up some parts from Vintage Randy (Tib Frame and full SS internals)
Motive fab arm and large star from Adam in the fine thread configuration
In route, not pictured, Alan's EVA knob to go with the Sal style arm
Bryans drag kit upgrade which I'm told can get over 20lbs of drag
I'm still needing to work out a few hick ups in the build. For starters, my sleeve spacer is to long. I can't back the drag off as much as I'd like. Does anyone know or have a short sleeve spacer I might purchase? Are you guys just sanding the sleeves or is there one I can buy? I'm sure measurements would be nice. Later I'll try and get this.
Also found that the quick release screw that allowes a spool change without tools is a pain to get in and is quite tight. I do like how the red plates and spool match the tib frame.
(https://preview.ibb.co/djn9mQ/IMG_2323.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iOHW0k)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eiWPLk/IMG_2324.jpg) (https://ibb.co/geGr0k)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gB3FRQ/IMG_2327.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b2QjLk)
(https://preview.ibb.co/footD5/IMG_2329.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dFCLt5)
(https://preview.ibb.co/d8QOD5/IMG_2326.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iXVqt5)
Very nice Jiggy that will be perfect for a multitude of the fish you target. Bet you're looking forward to putting it to use !! I sure would be.
-Ted
File or grind the spacer sleeve shorter a little at a time till you can back it off with still a slight drag. Different lengths of spacers can be ordered from SB&T but that's the expensive way unless you know the exact length you need. Just don't shorten it too far that the star rubs the plate when at full drag lock down. Rudy
Quote from: TongassFisher on April 15, 2017, 07:16:16 PM
Also found that the quick release screw that allowes a spool change without tools is a pain to get in and is quite tight.
I don't have any that take apart on the left plate, all mine are on the right - I think the Jiggy was the only one that ever had a left side take-apart.... you want that tight... but it has to be loose enough to be usable.
Sid
That reel is looking great! 8)
Trev looking great! I think you may be running into that issue we touched on briefly. The 500s has those rivet heads on the back side of the inner ring. The frames are not relieved for them and when you put ring to frame you torque the ring slightly. Take the ring loose from the frame and check the lock screw if it's freed up again that's your issue. There really is no good fix. You can compromise the anodizing and drill reliefs in, live with the tightness or switch to the 500.
Nice build you've got going on! As Rudy said go ahead and grind/file the factory spacer sleeve down till the star has enough range of movement.
Quick update,
I've sanded down the spacer as much as I feel comfortable doing. Its very close to the sideplates, any more and I'm worried a sinched down drag star would touch the sideplates. It's improved drag adjustability but is still just a smidgen not good enough. I'm thinking some red Cortez plates might be in order. It looks like more clearance is available comparing the 500s plates to the Cortez plates.
Bryan, might I gain a few thousands if I turn that small top washer included in you upgraded drag stack upside down? I though that might buy me just a bit more clearance. Does Turing that washer upside down alter total drag numbers?
Thanks everyone for your responces,
Trevor
Trevor, you can probably gain another .020 to .030 thousands or more if you file the boss on the plate under the star. It won't show even if you use the plate later for a different reel. Or you could try using the original wavy washer on top of the drag stack instead. Total drag will not be affected whichever way you go. It can only affect how fast it will ramp up. Rudy
Just want to mention that Adam, might still have thinner stars. If you didn't need to have a custom star, a stock 10-49 would cure your problem.
Sal, the 500s has a thicker boss under the star. It doesn't have the thin metal type bushing moulded into the plate like a 500 or 500L. It's possible that the 10-49 might not clear it. I don't know as I have never tried it on a 500s plate. Rudy
You are correct Rudy, molded into one piece. Unfortunately shaving it will cause the star to hit the bushing.
Trevor's best option is a thinner star.
We had the possibility to have these gear sleeves 1/16 taller, I tried but they wouldn't listen :-\.
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 17, 2017, 11:15:12 PM
You are correct Rudy, molded into one piece. Unfortunately shaving it will cause the star to hit the bushing.
Trevor's best option is a thinner star.
We had the possibility to have these gear sleeves 1/16 taller, I tried but they wouldn't listen :-\.
What bushing are you talking about? The plate is all bakelite in that area, no bushing. I hear you on an extended gear sleeve. I can't understand why it can't be produced. ALL the reels in the Jigmaster family run into the same problem when beefing up the drags, thicker stars, shims under under the gear sleeves, etc. Maybe Tom can come up with a reason why it can't be done. It sure can't be cost. Rudy
Quote from: RowdyW on April 17, 2017, 11:58:41 PM
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 17, 2017, 11:15:12 PM
You are correct Rudy, molded into one piece. Unfortunately shaving it will cause the star to hit the bushing.
Trevor's best option is a thinner star.
We had the possibility to have these gear sleeves 1/16 taller, I tried but they wouldn't listen :-\.
What bushing are you talking about? The plate is all bakelite in that area, no bushing. I hear you on an extended gear sleeve. I can't understand why it can't be produced. ALL the reels in the Jigmaster family run into the same problem when beefing up the drags, thicker stars, shims under under the gear sleeves, etc. Maybe Tom can come up with a reason why it can't be done. It sure can't be cost. Rudy
What bushing? This one Rudy:
https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/26-155.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/26-155.aspx)
Some call it bearing, some call it bushing.
All the upgrades don't have much to do with this issue, the only part contributing to it is the thicker star.
Its not a big deal making the sleeves 1/16" longet, I tried but they wouldn't listen.
The reel should work jusrt fine as is, there is ways to give it more travel.
I have wood with cutouts for stars and arms, I run it on a belt sander with some cutting oil to help it and works for me.
Adam has thinner stars for these, that would help.
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 17, 2017, 07:42:27 PM
Just want to mention that Adam, might still have thinner stars. If you didn't need to have a custom star, a stock 10-49 would cure your problem.
I have done thinner stars in the past, but that was before the cutter started stocking the 0.135" thick stainless I use now. For the sake of simplicity and accuracy, I prefer to keep all orders with them now to be only 0.135" thick. Its too easy to mix up 0.120" and 0.135" sheet for the average waterjet operator. And sheets get mislabeled, etc.
I will do what I can to fill special requests for the thinner stars, but I dont want to promise any availability or lead times.
If there is enough interest though, Id be willing to add a style/size thats available in the thinner material, but I dont want to try to cover my whole line.
If you were making those, I'm in Adam, but not if it's too much hassle on you.
We need stainless steel handle screws as well, I wonder who could help with those. Maybe even with 3 or 4 additional thread on it, so we could use thicker arms with no issues.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#92196a124/=178sy7q That is the #5-40 to fit the original arms, but a little longer.
I use #4-40 in my arms, which is more readily available. Ill be happy to offer spares for mine upon request, and I have screws with turned down heads in case the lock screw location is a little too close to the handle nut.
Adam, I think Sal means the screw that goes into the end of the gear sleeve to bolt the handle to the reel. Rudy
Quote from: RowdyW on April 18, 2017, 04:59:51 AM
Adam, I think Sal means the screw that goes into the end of the gear sleeve to bolt the handle to the reel. Rudy
You are correct, I misread it the first time.
edit: I need to double check the thread sizes to see if standard bolts are available.