Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Thank you everyone

Upgrading a Gen1 Penn Fathom, I would primarily focuses on improving cranking leverage, fine-tuning the drag system, and improving freespool. These modifications maximize your pulling power when targeting large offshore species.

The stock handles on Gen1 Fathoms can feel underpowered or uncomfortable under heavy drag.

On the 25NLD2 & 40NLD2, you can replace the stock T-bar or "football" knob with an aftermarket custom handle, it provides more leverage, reducing arm fatigue during tough fights. Options like the Penn 100 Handle Kit by BoilingTuna or the Blackflag handle offer offset arms and larger, comfortable T-bars.

The Gen1 Fathoms benefit greatly from smoothing and tuning the drag stack. The stock drag cams on Gen1s can cause some inconsistency in drag values. By degreasing and marking the two cam components, you can orient them to find the setup that yields the optimal freespool and drag ramp.

For the drag system, replacing or smoothing out your washers using high-quality grease improves the drag consistency.

If your freespool is sluggish or the reel feels stiff, it is likely due to contaminated bearing grease.

Cleaning the stock shielded bearings thoroughly and re-oiling them with a light oil (like TSI 301) significantly improves casting and dropping performance.

If the bearings are corroded, you can replace the stock bearings with high-quality ABEC-5 stainless/hybrid ceramic spool bearings.

Another weak point is the slot/recess for the roll pin that secures the spoolshaft in the LHS frame.  I have had 3 TLDs in the last few months that have cammed out and cut a ramp in the composite frame, new frame req'd.  Your drag will reduce and it starts to freespool/ratchet as the shaft gets pulled to the right as you move the lever.

If it's a Saltiga spinner from the last decade or so, the drag is completely sealed.
If it's a magsealed model, taking it apart and lubing it is... complicated. And possibly pointless depending on the nature of the dunking.
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If it's more than 3-5yrs old the magoil has probably gone anyway, you may well need a new pinion support bearing as that is where the old rusty magoil usually ends up.  Search for all the posts on magoil or unobtainoil on here and you will get the sources for replacement.  Ferrotec APG-L11 is the gear you need.

Does anyone know of source for in the USA for a CT conversion bar? I wan't to modify my reel but can't order any of the parts from UK it seems.

In fact, is there a source anywhere in the US for multiplier reel distance casting mods?

Thanks, Denham

Quote from: Robert Janssen on June 10, 2026, 10:38:51 AMHowever, this being the internet with long-term memory problems, the subject regularly reappears for a new cycle.

Ha!

I even responded to the original thread, but forgot. 


Now,  what were we talking about again?

-J

A nicer handle would be a good upgrade and if you want a higher high speed and/or a lower low speed on your 40 FTHII40NLD2 gears fit.

They're plenty strong and durable out of the box! I have a 15xnld2, 25nld2 and 40nld2.

Quote from: CI_Seawolf on May 30, 2026, 07:48:02 PMEveryone talks about a 30 lb rig for making bait.  Last year at the rocks, I used one of my 100 lb outfits with a 2 hook sabiki to make scads, it worked just fine.  You don't need to play the bait, just winch them in so they get in the tank without too much stress.

Making bait by dropping down a Sabiki isn't finesse fishing! I've used 25# in the past but 80# would work just as well.

Quote from: pjstevko on June 10, 2026, 07:40:13 PMWill I need to bring any wahoo bombs? 

Yes, bring 30-40 to sell to the losers who left them at home!