I put together a reel that will be for bottom fishing in my kayak and on 1/2 days. I really do not like using anything too expensive on my yak because of possible theft while loading / unloading , risk of losing them to the sea, and just the fact that the reels are so close to the water the whole time. For this upcoming season I put together this Frankenstein Jigmaster from two broken reels , and extra parts. I ended up with some problems with the spacing sleeve sticking out too far after mixing the best gear with a different drag different bridge and drive etc. To take a small amount of material off the brass spacing sleeve this dremel grinding bit worked wonders and it was very quick. I used tape to mark were to end my grinding on the spacing sleeve. Sure its not as precise as some people with machine shop access, but it worked very well for me here are the pics of what I used.
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o67/scubasteve2989/IMG_4669_zps77de2fcd.jpg) (http://s117.photobucket.com/user/scubasteve2989/media/IMG_4669_zps77de2fcd.jpg.html)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o67/scubasteve2989/IMG_4668_zps653b0744.jpg) (http://s117.photobucket.com/user/scubasteve2989/media/IMG_4668_zps653b0744.jpg.html)
Very nice Steve, I'm always grinding them, this should help.
Thanks for sharing,
Sal
Very nice. I was also thinking of getting some tubular SS to make up some spacers. That would be great for a yak reel. Less corrosion. Thanks for sharing.
Bob
Have Dremel. Will travel! ;)
Sal,I thought you would have been skimming them nice and square on the Unimat.
It works pretty well especially since you can rotate the spacer and get it relatively flat. I like the idea off ss a lot better for it but Im sure grinding it would be tougher. The dremel was my best 15 dollar garage sale purchase ever. I also got a cordless hitachi screwdriver that I really need to start using more I never break it out when working on wheels but It would make life so much easier. I think putting it in plain sight or on the workbench would work wonders.
Quote from: Irish Jigger on March 04, 2014, 12:58:09 AM
Sal,I thought you would have been skimming them nice and square on the Unimat.
Tom, I wish I had your expertise and a few others here ;) I do much better with a wood lathe ;D.
Somehow those cutters that came with the lathe are giving me a tough time, they work great on soft material, but no good on stainless steel.
I think I'll leave this to the pros.
Great choice for a Yak reel. Highly regarded for cost/ease of maintenance and not needing much of either. :)
This is where you resist the temptation to add bearings and you stick to bushings and grease.
best
Quote from: Alto Mare on March 04, 2014, 01:05:29 AM
Quote from: Irish Jigger on March 04, 2014, 12:58:09 AM
Sal,I thought you would have been skimming them nice and square on the Unimat.
Tom, I wish I had your expertise and a few others here ;) I do much better with a wood lathe ;D.
Somehow those cutters that came with the lathe are giving me a tough time, they work great on soft material, but no good on stainless steel.
I think I'll leave this to the pros.
The thing with stainless is that it's not bad once you understand some of its properties. The biggest thing people struggle with is that it work hardens. You simply cannot dwell. You need to be going slow enough that you can make relatively heavy cuts, but also fast enough to get a clean shearing action from the tool, and not a tearing action. On the lathe, I have had better luck with hss bits ground to a very sharp, positive rake of about 10 degrees than I have had with zero rake carbide bits. Carbide has to be run fast to cut better than hss. But with a very sharp hss bit, you can turn slower, cut deeper, and heat the tool and part less. If you're doing it right, the chips should take away most of the heat from cutting, leaving the tool and part relatively cool. Just mind the chips, because they will burn th crap out of you.
Thanks for the info Adam, one thing I know for sure, I will not be grinding down a $70 spool shafts anymore ;D
I got away from the Jigmaster for Kayak fishing, not sure what you are after, but I have found the surfmaster 100 and the Abu 6500 series more than adequate. They are also lighter. They handle Salmon, halibut, smaller sharks, stripers, rockfish, lingcod without to many problems, and I have heard tale of them being used on sturgeon. I just find the jig master to be more a boat reel, than a kayak reel, but that is my opinion.