Hello all,
I am working on a jigmaster. The bridge stem is wobbling. I tried to re-peen (spelling?) it by hitting the under side of the flanged end of the bridge stem. No success.
Is it possible to correct the situation? Do I need to hit the flanged end a little harder? or is it time to just get a new bridge assembly?
Thoughts?...
New Bridge and fish with confidence for years to come.
New bridge for sure Franky. I wouldn't trust it.
Thanks a lot folks.....new bridge it is. :)
I have seen a bunch of those and I braze them with silver solder. It costs me about $1 in materials (including propane) and 10 minutes of my time. Much cheaper than a new bridge. I haven't had one bridge come back. I was thinking that I should do that to my bridges so that it would not come loose.
By the way, I only apply the silver solder to the non-gear side of the bridge.
I think I use this stuff
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/511XO2R6kLL._SY450_.jpg)
Thanks Brian,
Yeah, I was trying to save this person a few dollars and was also thinking of possibly soldering. The only thing that you gotta becareful is when you apply the solder, you got to make sure the stem is straight.
I like you idea of applying a thin solder PRIOR to the stem becoming loose. This would ensure added stability and at the same time you know that the stem is straight. :)
Thanks again...
A long socket or pipe to protect the sleeve in a vise, use a punch in five or eight spots right next to the post usually pushe enough metal to tighten things up. If not try both sides, just making sure its supported correctly. If you ruin it, you were going to buy another bridge anyway. It will work.
I just let the stem hand upside down by placing the bridge plate with the gear sleeve shaft upside down.
Before I do that, I clean it by soaking in a hot bath Dawn dishwashing liquid, and if possible, ultrasonic cleaner, then rinse and dry for a day. Then hit it with the propane torch until both pieces are red hot and let cool. That should burn off any oily residue that may remain between the bridgeplate and gear sleeve shaft. Then when cool apply that acid etching flux. This is where I try to push on the gear sleeve shaft to get the flux inbetween the plate and the shaft. Then heat to red hot again and you will see the acid etching flux clean the surface of the brazing area. Then heat it red hot again and apply the flux. I'm not very good so mine tends to spread over a larger than expected area, but it works...not pretty, but it works. I have not had one come back for repair or replacement yet. knock on wood.
On the few that I have had trouble with the sleeve was rusted to the spindle causing it to rotate in the Bridge.
I had to replace the Sleeve in some cases too.
If it for someone looking a cheap fix just hammer it together and they will be none the wiser ;)
Quote from: Hamachi on April 01, 2014, 08:52:44 PM
A long socket or pipe to protect the sleeve in a vise, use a punch in five or eight spots right next to the post usually pushe enough metal to tighten things up. If not try both sides, just making sure its supported correctly. If you ruin it, you were going to buy another bridge anyway. It will work.
I have successfully punched them several times. Support the shaft side on the flange and center punch the back side of the shaft in the center. Smack it several times to displace the shaft metal.
I wouldn't waste my time, I never had luck fixing those.
Since you need a new bridge, get your self one of these:
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/custom%20stainless%20parts/039_zpsca311773.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/custom%20stainless%20parts/039_zpsca311773.jpg.html)
It will be one of the best jigmaster you ever had. These will be available soon.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 01, 2014, 10:25:53 PM
I wouldn't waste my time, I never had luck fixing those.
Since you need a new bridge, get your self one of these:
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/custom%20stainless%20parts/039_zpsca311773.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/custom%20stainless%20parts/039_zpsca311773.jpg.html)
It will be one best jigmaster you ever had. These will be available soon.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
Sal
i agree! you don't want this person to be disappointed with your work because it got loose again. tell him the 2 options before going ahead with the fix. my 2 cents...
I have a bunch of old 12/0, and 14/0 bridges I might try to fix via the Brian method when/if I ever get the time (something that seems to be in short supply when running a part-time reel repair buisness on top of being a full-time fisheries biologist). Thanks for the tips guys! Not sure how I missed this thread?
Quote from: Tightlines666 on April 02, 2014, 12:27:14 AM
...when/if I ever get the time (something that seems to be in short supply when running a part-time reel repair buisness on top of being a full-time fisheries biologist)...
time, one more reason to just replace with a new one and charge the customer. don't forget to advise though(cost pros and cons etc) before the fix...
As we have said many times before...you cannot make a living on maintenance and repairs of fishing reels. It's a passion that we have and if you can save the guy a few bucks with a suitable solution...that is what many of us try to do. Not everyone can afford new parts especially as they get scarce.
Bryan,
i don't service reels professionally and believe me i could use the extra cash, especially i'm moving back there, because i'm on a fixed income. i know there are a lot of AT.com members who repair/service reels mainly because it's a passion, i'm one of these people and you're one too. but at the same time there are people who do this to make a living. and so the faster it gets back to the customer the better.
quote
Not everyone can afford new parts especially as they get scarce.
end of quote
i agree with you 101% that's why advise the owner before the fix so he can opt for either of the two, the cheaper fix or the expensive one... :D :)
If there is no chance of the shaft pulling through, you should be ok. Look how many new reels have floppy shafts with a bushing or bearing on them. If in doubt, get a bigger hammer. Just make sure you're backing it up properly to avoid damaging the stem.
Mel, you are right. I do advise the reel owner regarding a loose bridge and provide options. When I know money is scarce for them, or if it's a kid, I will often just braze it for them at no cost because I know that they cannot afford the cost of a new bridge. With that, I inform them that I brazed the bridge and if it should ever come loose during fishing, the bridge should be replaced...it usually gives them a year to save up for a replacement part and it's usually time for the reel to be re-serviced.
Note that I have brazed about 12 reels, 6 or 7 of them are on charter boats that was serviced 2 or so years ago and I have yet heard from them about the bridge coming loose...only time will tell...I know. but if I can save someone some money, as long as it does not impair the operation and will not creat additional issues during fishing.
Besides, if the silver solder is able to wick into the joint, which I hope it is, it seals up the open space between the bridge and gear sleeve shaft, making it a tighter fit.
I sometimes also peen and then braze for added assurance.
Geez, a brand NEW jig master bridge and sleeve is less than 20 bucks...
how much is your time spent dinking around trying to re-peen & solder an old one worth ?? ??? ???
With reels like the 349 parts are hard to come by. Fortunately Sal had a few of them and for now it's not a problem.
I have a Newell Bridge Shaft that is also loose but I'm not going to play with a S S part. If I was still working I could have it Welded. I will buy a New Used one on Ebay
Mike
Quote from: erikpowell on April 02, 2014, 08:37:47 AM
Geez, a brand NEW jig master bridge and sleeve is less than 20 bucks...
how much is your time spent dinking around trying to re-peen & solder an old one worth ?? ??? ???
Erik, it's hard to charge even $15 for a new bridge when the reel may be worth $20...so I just fix it. I explain what I have done and they are usually estatic that they still use the reel.
Oh gosh, I didn't realize that I'd get all these responses.
Thanks everyone...good insight and feedback.
Yes Brian, the guy did buy the reel for 20.00 and I was hesitant to add on another 15.00 just for a new part. I did call the guy back and explained his options and he was okay with the add on. The reel is now fixed and he is happy.
Now, I am going to take his old bridge and hit the back end of the stem very hard without hesitation with a bigger hammer just to see if it will peen. I will brace it firmly to ensure that I don't damage anything else. Hopefully, it will work.
Btw Sal, Nice double dog bridge for the jig! This will definately change the jig.
Thanks folks.
at the end of the day a reel that's worth $20.00(that has been with the original owner since way back) + new or refurbished part is priceless... ;D ;D ;D
If the bridge were to be made from steel, the solution would have been simple - weld the bridge and the stem together.
Not knowing the level of expertise of the person asking the question, I try to answer in a way that even a newbie could understand. I hope my overly simplified instructions didn't insult anyone. I've seen many screw ups even though the instructions seemed easy enough. Growing up I was taught to catch fish with the bare minimum amount of gear. The important thing was to catch fish. I remember catching my first tuna on a penn 85 I dug out of the trash. We took hones to rusted hooks to smooth the corroded metal and to sharpen the point. Fast forward to today where we have to have all the latest bells and whistles and tons of gear in our fishing arsenals. I guess it's just me, but I think sometimes we need to get back to our roots, where less is more. Glad it worked out for you.
Okay guys,
Here it is....I took a 10 ounce hammer (standard household size hammer). I braced the bridge to ensure that the stem was not compromised. I hit the stem from the backside and wouldn't you know.....FAILURE! ::)
When looking at the back of the stem, the stem has a slight hump and a flanged surrounding that snugs the stem onto the bridge.
As I tapped the center of the hump (medium force), the hump began to counter sink and level off with the surface of the bridge. :-[
All said and done, the surrounding flange ended up cutting off and separating from the stem hump that was flattened out and I was left with a doughnut shaped circle piece of flange. I said....Oh well...there went the testing. ;D :-*
It was a good quick experiment, but now I know... :-\
Just buy a new part! :D
Live and Learn franky. ;) It happens to the best of us. ;D
You were supposed to hit the bridge in several places around the stem, to push some metal towards the stem. This is why I hate giving suggestions out. Live and learn I guess. When you peened the stem, there should have been no pressure exerted on to the plate, the whole force should've been on the stem, if that was the way you decided to do it. Sorry it didn't work out for you.
why didn't penn just weld/solder/ or whatever you want to call it the stem to the bridge? it's because of the "SUITS" the penny pinchers too much work etc.. how much more would this cost penn? and at the end of the day the ultimate consumer, the users, will pay. i for one will pay for a better designed and built reel but then again to each his own. ;) :D ;D
and also, i maybe wrong, a lot of this issues occur because of negligence. and also not everyone is a reel head... ;) :)
maybe it's not that easy:
http://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/material-faqs/faq-how-can-i-weld-naval-brass/
Franky, earlier I recommended Black Pearl's stainless steel bridge, they're due inn soon.
If you didn't want to go there, send me a pm with your address and I'll get one of the stock bridge out to you.
Sal
Silver brazing is much easier.
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 06, 2014, 12:33:46 PM
...I recommended Black Pearl's stainless steel bridge, they're due in soon.
Sal, I'm a Jigmaster fanatic, and these look absolutely
bodacious! Will you please let me know when/where I can order some? Thanks! :)
~
A~
Aiala, they are assembling them now, I believe they're due in two weeks. I'm also very excited about those, the Jigmaster is one of my favorite, now even more.
That's some scary stuff about metal fumes :-\
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 06, 2014, 02:33:32 PM
That's some scary stuff about metal fumes :-\
Yup, I will not weld on galvanized metal and I try to use a suction fan.
I had Galvanize Poisoning in the 70's from cutting pipe with a torch. It's no fun chucking up multi colored stuff. Tried it again 10-12 yrs. later & was told to drink milk to stop the poisoning - it didn't work.
Mike
Mike,
Don't try it anymore. ;D
[quote author=Alto Mare link=topic=10304.msg98140#msg98140 date=1396787626e
If you didn't want to go there, send me a pm with your address and I'll get one of the stock bridge out to you.
Sal
[/quote]
Thanks Sal. I already fixed the guys jig with a new bridge. He was very happy.
Quote from: Hamachi on April 06, 2014, 09:30:14 AM
You were supposed to hit the bridge in several places around the stem, to push some metal towards the stem. This is why I hate giving suggestions out. Live and learn I guess. When you peened the stem, there should have been no pressure exerted on to the plate, the whole force should've been on the stem, if that was the way you decided to do it. Sorry it didn't work out for you.
Thanks Hamachi, keep in mind that I used the guy's old bridge to experiment. If and when the next loose bridge comes in, I plan on trying to tap only the flanged part using a small nail punch. Just that alone, I can tell you that it is not going to be easy,especially when trying to complete the job and ensure that the stem is straight.
Don't get me wrong folks, usually I just change out the part and don't waste time. But being somewhat of of a reelhead, sometimes I try some stupid stuff just to see... ;D
Oh well, until the next one comes in....
Its All Good Franky! Its guys like you that we all learn from! Keep up the good work! ;)
Quote from: Aiala on April 06, 2014, 02:27:11 PM
...bodacious!...
bodaciously handsome or bodaciously beautiful...;D ;D ;D
Quote from: franky on April 07, 2014, 08:06:58 AMDon't get me wrong folks, usually I just change out the part and don't waste time. But being somewhat of of a reelhead, sometimes I try some stupid stuff just to see... ;D
It's not stupid Franky, is lessons learned...and we've all had that one time or another...and for me it's daily.
The only one that never has a "D'oh" moment is someone that never tries anything.
THERE'S ONLY ONE WAY TO FIND OUT... :) :D ;D EXPERIMENTATION IS ONE OF THE BEST WAYS TO DISCOVER THINGS... ;) :)
Quote from: Mel B on April 07, 2014, 05:14:09 PM
EXPERIMENTATION IS ONE OF THE BEST WAYS TO DISCOVER THINGS...
Ain't that the truth! Last week I discovered that a Tib frame doesn't work on a Jigmaster 500S; the top of one of the attachment lugs on the left-side ring protrudes enough on the ring's inner side that it prevents the frame from sitting flush. Grrrr... but, live and learn. :P
~
A~
Easy on the GRRRR! Girl! Your scaring me! :D
Quote from: Aiala on April 07, 2014, 06:09:44 PM
Quote from: Mel B on April 07, 2014, 05:14:09 PM
EXPERIMENTATION IS ONE OF THE BEST WAYS TO DISCOVER THINGS...
Ain't that the truth! Last week I discovered that a Tib frame doesn't work on a Jigmaster 500S; the top of one of the attachment lugs on the left-side ring protrudes enough on the ring's inner side that it prevents the frame from sitting flush. Grrrr... but, live and learn. :P
~A~
The guts are the same as a 500 so you could get a set of side plates and "fix" your problem.
Quote from: Keta on April 07, 2014, 08:35:43 PM
Quote from: Aiala on April 07, 2014, 06:09:44 PM
Quote from: Mel B on April 07, 2014, 05:14:09 PM
EXPERIMENTATION IS ONE OF THE BEST WAYS TO DISCOVER THINGS...
Ain't that the truth! Last week I discovered that a Tib frame doesn't work on a Jigmaster 500S; the top of one of the attachment lugs on the left-side ring protrudes enough on the ring's inner side that it prevents the frame from sitting flush. Grrrr... but, live and learn. :P
~A~
The guts are the same as a 500 so you could get a set of side plates and "fix" your problem.
but they are not as pretty red...
Aiala, I have a bunch of sideplates if you need a set. Let me know.
I'm going to the shop soon and I'll look at my 500S to see if there is something else that can be done. BTW, I prefer the older dark maroon side plates.
I just picked up a Nice 500 with the Maroon side plates. The woman had it listed as a 508, I guess that's why I got it for 25 Bucks! ;D
(http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag93/darondyer/_57_zpse1a8b391.jpg)
(http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag93/darondyer/_58_zps16069c18.jpg)
Nice deal.
Quote from: Aiala on April 07, 2014, 06:09:44 PM
Quote from: Mel B on April 07, 2014, 05:14:09 PM
EXPERIMENTATION IS ONE OF THE BEST WAYS TO DISCOVER THINGS...
Ain't that the truth! Last week I discovered that a Tib frame doesn't work on a Jigmaster 500S; the top of one of the attachment lugs on the left-side ring protrudes enough on the ring's inner side that it prevents the frame from sitting flush. Grrrr... but, live and learn. :P
~A~
Aiala, it should work for you, the only problem that I ran into with those is that Tiburon screw holes don't line up with the plate, but if you keep the screws loose and tilt the frame a little as you go, you should be fine.
(http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx305/pescatore3/upgrades%20for%20others/002_zps938e2a7c.jpg) (http://s766.photobucket.com/user/pescatore3/media/upgrades%20for%20others/002_zps938e2a7c.jpg.html)
(http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx305/pescatore3/upgrades%20for%20others/005_zps90d0ffff.jpg) (http://s766.photobucket.com/user/pescatore3/media/upgrades%20for%20others/005_zps90d0ffff.jpg.html)
Sal
Worked for me too, and I had to leave the screws loose until all were started too.
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g104/IGFA19Keta/Reels/DSCN1436_zps2177144f.jpg) (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/IGFA19Keta/media/Reels/DSCN1436_zps2177144f.jpg.html)
Beautiful reels gentlemen!
With all those modifications, I am surprised to see the factory handle with the small torpedo knob. That knob just puts the "Auwe" on my hands! :(
My 500S is normally stock and collects dust on a shelf, I put the frame on it to see what the problem was.
It will be back to stock tomorrow.
Lee, you shouldn't have shown your blue along with mine, now the Sharker is going to want one for himself ::)
Quote from: Keta on April 08, 2014, 01:22:17 AM
I put the frame on it to see what the problem was.
It will be back to stock tomorrow.
Same here, just to help out ;)
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 08, 2014, 01:23:55 AM
Lee, you shouldn't have shown your blue along with mine, now the Sharker is going to want one for himself ::)
Not really Sal. I think if you are going with a Blue frame, You need a Black Reel. Black and Blue. ;)
Well, I still can't figure out how you fellows managed to negate those little protuberances on the left-side ring, but it doesn't matter; I decided to keep my 500S reels in their original classic configuration, and instead followed Mr. Shark's example: I bought another old Jigmaster! (I think that makes eight... ye gods) :D (http://querytracker.net/forum/Smileys/default/eek.gif) ;D
~A~
Quote from: Aiala on April 08, 2014, 02:37:25 PM
I decided to keep my 500S reels in their original classic configuration, [/img] ;D
~A~
My 500S will return to that condition today.
I'm thinking about picking up some parts and make a 501 with a 500S right side plate and a standard left side one.
Quote from: Keta on April 08, 2014, 03:00:35 PM
I'm thinking about picking up some parts and make a 501 with a 500S right side plate and a standard left side one.
That would be way sweet... but can you get a standard left plate to match the 500S
red? ???
~
A~
I've never seen a standard Jigmaster that shade of red and will probably use one of my late model black sideplates.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on April 08, 2014, 12:20:40 PM
Not really Sal. I think if you are going with a Blue frame, You need a Black Reel. Black and Blue. ;)
Good, more for us ;) ;D
I was wondering if these are available for order yet from Black Pearl? Also, will the double dogs require that the Jigmaster's bakelite plate be drilled? (I haven't done that before... yikes! :P)
~A~
Aiala here you go...
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=8737.195 look for Black Pearl's post. it will be available next wed 16/04/2014...
Mah-valous! Many thanks. :)
Do you know if Black Pearl has given any indication of the price?
~A~
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=8737.0 package B $29.99...